what pump is that? Id like to find a pump to fit my pump pegs on my sports. I know they are not the best but they complete the look. Nice bike by the way....

[MENTION=116596]scale[/MENTION] it's a Bluemmel from England I got from [MENTION=252763]Flog00[/MENTION] it was missing the hose but I found one at the LBS here. Works great. Thanks!, the bike is a fun work in progress.

That's a very good looking bike. That stem is what I'm looking for, to finish my 61 scorcher....

I pulled it off my 61 Rudge 10 speed. It is a Raleigh branded item and the clamp area works with North Road bars. I will keep an eye out for one at the LBS I haunt. I am their shop ghost!

Thx,
I have a couple on other bikes but I don't want to start stripping complete projects.

I agree. Lucky enough I needed a little more reach on the Rudge so I found a GB stem and steel bar for it. That freed the chrome stem for the sport which also gave me a little more reach there.

That looks like the rear stand that came on the Fuji Cambridge III and the Cambridge VI back in the '80s. That one looks pretty grody and I've only ever seen shiny ones. On my own Raleigh Sports the one I use is a Greenfield alloy rear axle stand in black.
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_P7m8p3pz-z...0/IMG_0682.jpg

Pic assist:
Attachment 581871

Thanks!

Would this be the one your using?
https://www.niagaracycle.com/categor...pouch-packaged

Wow, that is beautiful. Brings back so many memories. Although my teenage scorcher was nowhere near as slick as this. Wish I could flip the bars on my new scorcher, but I know how my back would feel after a half hour or so.
I needed cable adjusters for the calipers on my green Sports after I ditched the self adjuster levers. Luckily I found some in my parts box. A bit rusty but useable.

Correct. Works fine.

It is a solid idea. The only problem I envision with it is tightening the nut up inside the fork tube. Not much space in there. The other end of the bolt is a shallow screwdriver slot. With the right box wrench, it might just work.

Cable adjusters! Doh! I'm sure it would have occurred to me at some moment in time. Back to the bins! Thanks [MENTION=398265]BigChief[/MENTION]

So I pulled my 73 sport out today and while I was spinning the back wheel like I was riding and coasting was fine but if I move the pedals back like if it were a coaster brake It sounds like a metal groaning which I feel is due to it having probably no lubricant left in it as when I got the the hub was covered in a thick black layer of what I assumed was grease.

Again it sound normal riding forward but reversing the pedal rotation cause a intermittent deep scraping / grinding sound

It has the fill cap but I worry that it’s broken or isn’t sealing

So is the hub dead , is this normal or is it rebuild time?

The bin doth give bounty! This should give me cable adjustment after taking the auto adjusting feature off the brake lever.

All AW hubs make some noise, some much more than others. I've had the hub apart on my 72 DL1 twice and haven't been able to calm down the runch-runch sound it makes while coasting with the crank at certain positions. Move the crank a bit and it calms down. Most hubs do this to a degree, but this one is particularly noisy. Everything in that hub is cleaned, degreased, oiled and in good order. I write it down to a misalignment somewhere. Seems like lots of things came out of Nottingham misaligned in the 70s. Been riding this bike a lot for a year now and with the exception of the noise it works fine. Wouldn't hurt to service the hub. You could also swap in the guts from another AW into your hub shell. I was thinking of that for my roadster.

Monkey See, Monkey Do
 

I stopped by George from Parts Unknown and picked up an extended stem for $5.00. Not exactly what I'm looking for but will work as a place holder for now. I had to make a little leather shim to clamp the bars down.
Overall a big improvement.
Attachment 581930

Attachment 581931

Reality has set in. Not going to be a simple swap for the adjuster. Way I see it, I have two options.
1. Drill the brake arm hole from .30 to .92 insert adjuster

2. Use the base of the Raleigh cable holder, drill and tap that hole to accept the replacements cable adjuster stop.

Time for me to think. It has to be done since I have taken away any means of adjusting the cable with the brake levers now.

Hey, I like bananas, and I like that machine of yours! Wish mine was that far along.

I may be one of the few people who actually like the self-adjusters. I have a set on my '74 Sports and they work nicely. They take a little of the "feel" out of braking because they auto-set the brake lever travel, but that doesn't bother me. I would not add them to earlier bikes that lacked the adjusters, but I left them on this sports, and they do fine.

Yes, I don't dislike them either, I just did not want them on the scorcher build. I used these for another build and they did fine.

It did work. A tip of the hat to @noglider for the suggestion. I eliminated 18" of cable housing and the Raleigh lever now has plenty enough travel to handle the Tektro dual pivot. Far more firm, much better feel. There is a BUT here though. This would not have worked if I didn't have this big 1" cable stop in my parts bin. I bought a brand new clip and used that with an old steel grommet. It wouldn't hold. The old Sturmey Archer clips are a bit more husky, but not as strong as the one I ended up using. Don't know who made it, not Sturmey Archer, but this wouldn't have worked without it. Maybe somebody makes bolt on cable stops for 1" tubes somewhere. I couldn't find one.
So this is a very useful mod and , I think, necessary if you're going to use dual pivot calipers, but you will need something stronger than a SA fulcrum clip. If I had known this, I would have brazed on stops while I had the frame stripped. edit: forgot to mention. The old SA clip does hold at the rear of the top tube. I think there may be more tension at the front. It was also handy that the Tektro connects the rear cable on the left side of the bike. Nice clean routing with the shifter on the right.

Attachment 581948

My 73 has odd brake handles, they are chrome but have a black section with adjustment wheels also it looks as if someone replaced the cables for them as they are just about the only shiny part on there...lol
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4333/...59214045_b.jpgIMG_1260 by David Ashe, on Flickr

Were the 70's brake cables black and did they have the different handles?

The cables in the 70's were black but they were not smooth, they had raised ridges on them. The black thing on your levers we're something they tried for awhile. Self adjusting brake tensioning mechanism. As the pads moved away from the rim as they wore, the adjuster would bring it closer for better braking. Some like them, some remove them.

These are my levers with them removed.

Interesting, well so far they work but i dunno if ill keep them. My cables are actually smooth so they must be newer, odd considering how the rest of the bike looks like it lived in a swamp.

Whats the benefit of them other than the self adjusting?

Howdy! Apologies for this being my first post on the forums.

I enjoyed reading the thread from the first post. It took several weekends and a couple of weekday nights, going through about 30-60 minutes each time. I learned quite a bit and started to understand why the English three-speed is so revered. The only wish I had was that Photobucket didn't change their Terms of Service. Anyway....

Somewhat unfortunately - since I can be easily enabled if something piques my interest - I may have overpaid a bit to pick up a Phillips. Hub stamp is 68/12. It was stored in a storage locker and picked up by someone bidding when the owner went past-due on his locker. No fenders. It looks relatively clean and has most of the original parts left on the bike - including the cables, Raleigh Record tires and what look to be Kool-Stop brake pads. I'll probably keep it as a cafe/path racer until I find the need to put fenders on the bike. Once I determine where to host photos, I'll upload a few.

First steps are to replace tires, check/replace the tubes, and get new brake pads. I need to figure out what's going on with the hub as it was adjusted too tight and I can't either get it into first or I spin in second gear. Once that's done a new seat will be in order.

That's what they do, that all they do.

Welcome! That does make for a marathon reading time, doesn't it? Bring your Phillips here when you can, we would love to see it.

The 3 speed hub does not like to be too tight. It does like to have its cable adjusted.

That they do...lol

Tear down will be starting hopefully tomorrow :)

I'm a big fan of Imgur.com. Linked you see the basic upload website but if you make an account you can easily put them in folders and access them later or add comments.

Here you can find a quick guide how to upload images. Extra info

For posting to the forum you need the BBCode once the image is uploaded. Linked BBCode has the advantage of showing a smaller image on the forum but allowing people who are interested to go to the IMGUR website to see the original full size. Just make sure you select the right size for the thumbnail. ;)

Nice older one on CL here in town. Looks like a 23" frame.

https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/...312189340.html

1960s Raleigh 3 speed - $75 (RVA/Maymont)

https://images.craigslist.org/00o0o_...NB_600x450.jpg

make / manufacturer: Raleigh
model name / number: Sports

Raleigh 3-speed Sports model bicycle. I don't know the exact year but it is from the 1960s.

The bike is obviously old, but it still rides fine. The tires hold air and the gears shift. Best suited for someone under 6' tall, but I'm a bit taller and it is definitely still ride-able. Good for cruising around town.

I'll throw in the red lock that is pictured.

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