Seller says bike was his/her Grandfather's and is located in Florida but would bring to Grimsby, Ont.
if anyone was interested.

Thank you gster for the memories, the little carbide pellets certainly were evil smelling. I think they were made of calcium and became acetalene when the droplets of water dripped down from the water chamber. This takes me back to the 1940's with the cycling club. Jim.

The seller also has several vintage bike lanterns for sale as well.

Thank you gster, I am no longer confident venturing out near or after dusk. Stay warm.

I have a bunch of Bendix parts too. I inventoried those already but haven't found a forum to discuss them. I get a kick out of looking up the parts and trying to figure out what they are.

I do have a good assortment of tools, not the least of which is a Park 2-bike workstand, the professional one with the heavy steel plate. I already have one or else I'd keep it. This one is a true vintage item with a cast tool tray. I'll be keeping some of the tools for myself and sending some to my son, but after that we'll see what's left. Anything specific to 3-speeds or Bendix work will likely go up for sale.

Interesting thought, seeing if someone wants to wade in with me! I'll keep it in mind.

Thanks! I'll keep posting and discussing for sure. Don't want to bend any rules! (I used to be a moderator on another forum.) In the meantime I'll take inventory. I think the most fun thing I got was an assortment of bike bells; apparently my uncle had a thing for them. All kinds of nutty stuff like baseballs, eyeballs(!), and whatnot.

I'm not as keen on night driving either....

The common 'N' must be neutral mistake. A very nice bike. I'd like to see the headbadge. That chainwheel looks more like an early Humber.

These were built for the Hudson's Bay department store chain (The Bay).
Probably made in Japan.
Hey, i just turned an Eatons Villager into an S/A 3 speed for a friend and it turned out quite nice.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1ae1da0e02.jpg
Nothing special but presentable.
The frame came from the trash (I suspect Bridgestone) and
I had most parts on hand and didn't spend much
New chain and pads and a couple pf cables.

I like it.

Just picked the Baycrest up a little bit ago, I didn't have room for it Saturday. I hadn't really looked it over, I just heard "free" and figured why not? Paint is pretty rough as are the top and down tube decals, but I think most of the chrome will clean up fairly well, I'll give it a shot anyway. I tweaked the front fender loading it but not too bad, I can make it right again. It's a chunk though, that's for sure, the only aluminum I can see is the SR stem and the Esge kickstand, I'll have to do something about that LOL. I won't get to it until next year so a lot could change as far as my intentions. It was too dark by the time I got home to take a better picture, I'll try to get one tomorrow after work.

I drag a lot of junk home as well....

Yeah, I suspect I may have paid too much for this one LOL. Nah, it's not "that" bad, I can make something out of it with what I have on hand. It probably still won't be worth my initial purchase price but I'll have fun.

Calcium carbide actually. Yes, acetylene gas was produced when the calcium carbide was dropped into water. Calcium hydroxide too - which dissolved in the water ...

Can't tell for sure from the pic, but the black one looks like it might be a J C Higgins. Those were some pretty neat bikes. Not as many as the Raleigh Sports, but the survivors I've seen have all been desireable.

SEARS used Puch/Steyr.

+1...definitely Puch-Steyr

Took a good look at the Baycrest today, it says "MADE in CANADA" on the seat tube. DANG it's heavy and the frame lugs have very crude weld seams down the middle of them, I think they're more cosmetic than structural. I'm not going to put much time or money into this one. I may just pull the SR stem and Esge kickstand and set the rest on the curb.

I don't know about this saddle, up close there seems to some dry rot around the rivets.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...666949c8a2.jpg

B72
 

The saddle looks fine too me. That is just normal wear and tear. Just don’t stretch it any more.

Darn, looks like somebody hammered the drive side cotter and gave up on removing it. If this is a problem you've not experienced before, my advise is not to even start to remove it unless you have a sharp fine point center punch and a sharp drill set. Dull or inadequate tools will make a mess of things.

could be but I don’t think so... had one with similar “nose wear” and this was the result...
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...28f1cd8ff.jpeg

Yes, hammered it and folded it over then gave up:). I'm glad they stopped there. I can press it out proper.

That's what I originally did with that Villager,I transfered some good parts to another project and then threw the frame in the back garden.
Looking around one day, with some free time I decided to put a quick "Bitsa" together...
The recipient was very pleased.

Hard to tell about the saddle. Put some weight on it and see.

It is good that they stopped, but in my experience once the threaded section starts to bend, a press will only bend it more. Then, even if it does come loose, it won't fit out the hole past the spindle.I think it would be best to tape up the crank arm and hack saw off the bent section of the cotter. I suppose it's not necessary, but I like to center punch the new end and start with a small drill and work up to bigger drill so the top of the cotter has a counter sink that will hold the punch so it won't slip off and mar the crank arm. The counter sink also helps direct the force of the hammer blows in the direction it's needed. The important part is that I support the crank arm as I drive the cotter. Luckily I have a cement floor in my cellar. I put the bike in the stand, up off the tires. Then I fit a 2x4 with a hole drilled in the end grain to clear the cotter between the hard floor and the crank arm. Then I drive the cotter out with a hefty punch and hammer. So far, this has always worked for me, but I have seen other posts here where people had to drill all the way through to weaken the cotter enough to be able to drive it out. Good luck.

I stayed away from cottered cranks for that reason. Recently picked up a really nice Park tool vice. Put some pressure on and give it a tap and those pins come right out.

Cotter pins were never supposed to be used with a hammer. Even 100 years ago there were cotter pin presses that were used to insert and remove cotter pins. But not having one and not really having social media to find out they existed, many people used hammers. BigChief describes the only method in which a hammer should be used- otherwise the crank bearings can be damaged.

If you have a cotter pin press on hand, installation and removal of cottered cranks is easier and more reliable than alloy cranks on square tapers. I really don't like creaky cranks.

There are two of the vintage Park cotter pin presses on ebay right now.

I would say that cotter pin removal is the number 1 topic on this forum...

Where is everyone buying their Sun CR18 rims at? I need a pair and not sure where to get them.

I almost don't see how you could pay someone enough to do this if you don't have the determination, tools etc. to do it yourself.