Yeah I bought new coffers online from that website - can't recall the name Mark Stonich's website.

I found a seller in England that sells (R)-compatible cotters for about $8.50/pair, beveled right and everything...but wants about $15 to ship. I want to justify that, but I can't.

I couldn't get the threads chased last night...made a little improvement, but not enough. I'm just gonna order some from Bikesmiths.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=510035Another Toronto Glider
This one's got an AG hub and fair asking price of $120.00

That would be Bikesmith. He's local.

Yellow Jersey has a rack that fits a DL-1. Not sure if it's the Iron Pigeon one. I bought one for a DL-1 that came and went through my hands (too big), but never installed the rack. I could take some pics for you.

Reasonable price for an experienced Raleigh Sports with battered Brooks and Canal Zone cred.

Vintage Raleigh DL22 Mens 3 Speed City Bike

Vintage Raleigh DL22 Mens 3 Speed City Bike - $145 (Mclean, VA)

http://images.craigslist.org/00Z0Z_i...zD_600x450.jpg


Great antique vintage Raleigh, with optional Raleigh Luggage Rack, and Bell, Leather Brooks seat in great shape, Has bike pump rack but not the pump, trail theft! Bike has the Bronze Green "Colour," or what we call British MOD (Ministry of Defense) left over War paint. Bike has seen service in panama Canal Zone, has stickers, been in family forever, the bike works, rode it today, would be a really great bike with some time & attention, steel wool and wax! Last 10 years mostly used as a loaner bike for guests, but with bike share, thinking garage space better used, and husbands attention better elsewhere! Every year he says he is going to restore it, every year he doesn't! Seat, Bell and rack seem to have high value on EBAY, but since its been with us for so long, don't want to hear about parting it out- want someone to take it to the next level! These bikes are bullet proof and last forever! $145 Cash OBO
•do NOT contact me with unsolicited services or offers

Thanks, gna. Yes, please. If I can take a look at yours, it might save me from buying something more modern, and not consistent with the rest of the bike.

I've looked at the YJ site, and the only mention of what might be a rear rack is this:

Chromed "twist" rear carrier for big wheels $29.95

Is that what you have?

It might be easiest to change out the crank. I think eBay would yield the fastest results, but bending the arm straight is still an option. I've done it before. The crank arms are forged, but seem to be a mild steel. You would think that it would be like trying to bend a pipe wrench, but not so. I prefer to straighten crank arms off the bike, but it can be done right on the bike. Might be worth the effort to give it a try.
You just need a friend to help hold the bike, a pipe, some bits of old inner tube to prevent scratches and a ruler to lay across the chainwheel to help spot when the arm is parallel.

I am not going to bother reading thru 9000+ contributions to find a possible answer but...

Somewhere I read about a press that removed cotters on these crank arms - and the "press" could also be used to install a replacement cotter.

Anyone know of:

a. a source for such a press. or
b. a design for making (as in DIY) such a press.

Currently in Doha Qatar and looking at buying an Indian made roadster (Atlas, or Hero, or Herculese, or KWI) and then putting a 28" rear wheel with a SA 3-speed hub on. Replacement cotters could be needed - hence the "press".

Here you go: BikeSmith Design and Fabrication

Mike will have everything you need.

I use this one,works great .Maybe ebay would turn one up.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=510194http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=510195

That must be it:

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=510227http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=510228http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=510229

You can come by and look at it. I should be around this weekend

Skyline 3 Speed
Does anyone know where these were made? Poland?
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=510257http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=510259http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=510260http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=510261http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=510258

That driveline! The whitewalls!

What a cool looking bike! :thumb:

I've never seen one of those.

They used to sell those at Simpson Sears. Very close clone to Raleigh with the fork crown and mudguard mounts. I think Poland or maybe even Steyr in Austria?

Okay, I'll try this private message thing... gna, check your PMs please?

Went to overhaul my bottom bracket today...and was surprised how easily I was able to get it apart! One cotter pin didn't want to come out too easy, but sprayed some WD40 into it and waited a minute. A couple of good whacks with a hammer and out it came! I was really worried about taking the cotters out and that it would be a big pain, but it wasn't. The lockring was loose, but it was nice not having to huff and puff to get it loosened. One of the bearing cages was broken, so I'm going to have to wait until tomorrow to head to the shop and get a new set. The fixed cup wasn't budging, but that's okay.

For the 3 speed hub, do y'all take it apart, or just add some oil if you have one with an oil port? My friend strongly cautioned against taking it apart...and as great of a mechanic is he (he was the head mechanic in a shop for over 5 years), I think some of the 3 speed stuff scares him a little. He also recommended not overhauling the bb bc he has never been able to get cotters to tighten up again as good as they were from the factory. I have two brand new pins though...maybe he tried to salvage his old ones instead of using some new pins.

Don't try to remove a fixed cup unless you have a really good reason to. Leave it in.

You don't need ball cages. There are some good arguments against them. Use loose balls instead.

Don't disassemble a SA hub unless you need to. The AW is designed to keep going if you oil it periodically. Sometimes things go wrong, requiring disassembly, but not often.

Thanks Tom! I'll probably use the cages, because that's the way it came. I need to replace the bearings anyway. The ones on the side with the broken cage are pretty roughed up.

Good to know I don't need to take the SA hub apart! Probably should service the front one, though. That's the last thing on the list for my Sports! I wasn't going to mess with the fixed cup. No compelling reason to do that.

FWIW, mine came with cages too, but they had both broken. When I went to rebuild it, my mechanic told me to go with loose balls, as many as it would take while still leaving a gap, and to use Phil Wood grease. So I did, and that old cottered crank turns smooth as buttah! It has a nicer, silkier feel than any of my modern, sealed-bearing bikes.

Apparently, the basis of the main argument is that loose balls, because you are using more of them, spread the load out more and for that reason alone they last longer and turn more smoothly.

This is just what I once read about. THANK YOU :thumb:

+1. Reassembly with loose balls isn't that hard, and it gives you that much more load-bearing area within the assembly.

I think it's Austrian. For sale in Toronto at a reasonable $190.00 considering the condition.

Norman Rockwell's Rudge:

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=510343

Story about Rockbridge MA Norman Rockwell Museum with bike:

The Distracted Wanderer: The Fine Art of Illustration at The Norman Rockwell Museum in Stockbridge, Massachusetts