fify.

The tension bolt on the seat should be tightened in very small increments
and never with a wet/damp saddle.
I prefer buying used saddles for the fact that they're already
broken in and considerably cheaper......
I've also used leather dye to spiff them up a bit.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...10607e4fc1.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...aa33e933ce.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...2158a7702f.jpg

Fify? Some kind of Martimes reference?

means Fixed it For You...
I had to look it up.
perhaps you had a spelling mistake?

I believe my usage was appropriate, referring to B66/67/Flyers. From the Brooks site: "The Flyer and its ladies model Flyer S are classically sprung saddles for long distance trekking..." They need their noses aimed even higher than non-sprung models.

Sorry, I was just suggesting that some people require many of their Brooks saddles to be slightly pointed upward, even the racier models.
Here's a couple of mine. Of course my short inseams require zero setback posts.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...8762832534.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...bb99057085.jpg

Fify is an opportunity to prove one is clever. If it doesn't work, it's my problem. :o

Yes indeed. I have C17s on two other bikes and some folks ask "doesn't it hurt to have your saddle pointing up?" I find that folks who are familiar with setting up leather saddles often don't realize how much more the sprung ones go. 'tis a sensitive subject! If you set one up with the classic slight upward tilt, just a few degrees, it feels like you're sliding off the front once you get on and ride.

Williams Crankset
 

I just got a Williams crankset for my 1957 Hopper Invincible. This is my attempt to document the installation.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...4f1302403.jpeg
Slightly less than 1” drive side. This bottom bracket came with the frame.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ec291aefb.jpeg
About 13/16 left side.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e9087c628.jpeg
.86” thick
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...96e1b6c2d.jpeg
BB protrudes roughly 3/32. Almost to much frame clearance. This is only a 40 tooth ring.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...2f536de4a.jpeg

Thanks. I feel the same way. I don't want to remove the original stem, bar, or add an extender. I am going to try a layback seatpost. I haven't adjusted the nut because it is a 70 year old saddle and I am afraid of tearing the leather. rhm suggested finding some foam to stuff underneath between the leather and rails to shore up the seat surface. I was thinking of trying case foam from the hardware store, cut to fit.

There's no better source of saddle advice here than Rudi.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...eef385d722.jpg
Custom BSA Path Racer for sale...
https://deadrats.co.uk/2020/01/16/fo...sa-path-racer/
Nice bike but a bit pricey.
On a side note the seller has used the word "Bespoke" in the description.
Bespoke does refer to something custom made but specifically refers to something that has "been spoken about previously"
i.e. ordering a custom made shirt or a hat for example.

I've not had any troubles with the small bits in the GB brake levers. On several occasions though I've cannibalized Weinmann levers for the clamps that fix the lever to the handlbars. I've also found it advantageous to mount the clamp on the bars first, and then offer the lever to it, rather than try to work the lever and clamp around the bends of the bars.

Cheap it says, or maybe even free
And it looks like a ladies' 23.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...6495416048901/

https://scontent.fric1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...a6&oe=5ECE2D3E

Here's one for the detectives
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...426048557e.jpg
A new listing on Kijiji, Toronto
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b9ef03bfc6.jpg
A nice fender ornament
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a34991766d.jpg
Looks to be British....

Looks like a Rudge

Or buy a garage sale Raleigh, ditch the fenders and flip the bars...all for about $100
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...dee111d3bb.jpg

Agreed!
A classic Scorcher!
This one ticks all the boxes.

That's a great tip. I have a pair of Mafac levers that I could perhaps steal clamps from.

I'd guess a Birmingham Hercules with an add-on ornament. Women's roadsters had that distinctive ledge at the headtube/downtube intersection as well as the short connecting tube.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...84d40d7085.jpg

Good suggestion.
My 1930 Hercules also has a hole in the front fender (no ornament).
I like those "7" seat posts as well.

I find that just looking at a bike like this cheers me up.
The proportions, the angles, the relationship between the frame and the wheels.
It's quite perfect in it's design and function.
Well done.
Being of Scottish descent, I like the frugality as well....

I am thinking German.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1c01d1969f.jpg
TCW hub stamped 1957. This is halfway through cleaning & I'm reassembling as I go. I had to stop at this point because I forgot to bring grease with me to where I'm doing this; and it was time to pack the bearings. I got this from a trashed ladies framed BSA, and was also able to harvest its steel wheeled cable guide and the shifter. The gear insides show no signs of wear which is nice, just a little wear on the bronze brake shoe. This will go on a mid-fifties Australian roadster with 28 3/8" wheels (642mm). I've heard the braking from these is fairly lame, but I'll have a decent front brake to do most of the stopping.