I'll be there for maybe my 10th ride. I'll have my looks like hell 23" Bitsa Sports with some modern-ish accouterments. Looking forward to meeting you and seeing your Maclean.

The pads for my DL-1 showed up, but they look like regular brake pads. Shouldn't they be curved?
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...11e828831c.jpg

Some of the rod brake pads come pre-rounded and some do not. They will take a shape as they wear-in with use. You can also pre-round them by sanding them down a bit if you want immediate full contact.

That's not going to fit. Rod brakes use shoes with a mount 90 degrees to the braking surface, not inline with it.

Keep your original pad holders and get these Kool-Stops: https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Rou...005FKP3HA?th=1

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1fe0d2f242.jpg

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...15c82167b7.jpg

-Kurt

Unfortunately, the brake shoes don't look like they have pad holders--they're closed all around the rubber. Don't look quite like yours.
I found the number of SH144 or ASH144 searching the forum.

This is what the current Fibrax model looks like that's DL-1 compatible:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/23348756806...Bk9SR6ComK_7YQ

These are the 144's:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Bik...-/252460875293

-Kurt

Kurt is correct about how those particular brakes you photographed mount - those look like the brakes for a Raleigh Sports type caliper brake.

Flooding on the Lower Androscoggin
 

I tried to ride the M.U.P. today, but it seems that I was unaware of the worst flooding in over 20 years. I didn't know how deep it was, so I rode past a roadie who had stopped before the water and I continued. The water was thirty-three inches deep when I got off my Rudge and turned it back around. The roadie commented, "Thanks! I didn't know how deep it was!" Anyway, I tried, and gave the roadie a show of what three-speeds can do (or almost can do).Lots of leaves and sticks and stuff I had to wipe off the bike, afterward.

Could that water have had any salt in it from any nearby water mass?

If so, pull your wheels, dismount your tires, and get the water out of your rims before they rot from the inside out. Use a compressor to blow water out of the folds in the rim too.

-Kurt

Thanks for this advice. We are about seven miles up the river, so we are tidal, but fresh water. Do you think I jeopardized the electrical system on the bike? (the front lamp did not go under water).

How far was the bike itself submerged? Not the entire 33", was it?

If so, this might warrant Rick Smith to come out of retirement and write one more Yehuda Moon comic strip :lol:

-Kurt

1953 Rudge... a bit modernized...
Before
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...92527972c5.jpg
After...
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...4cdfe73b65.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...08abfa8681.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a69546f936.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0f00b6255c.jpg

Gotcha. I had assumed you might have been partially submerged and noted 33" from a trailside depth scale. Looks as if your Rudge is an honorary submarine.

Most of the wiring on these bikes is stainless and copper, so I'd shoot it with some electrical cleaner and cross my fingers.

Rick Smith is the author of Yehuda Moon and the Kickstand Cyclery comic strip. The titular character is the sort who rides upright bars, 3-speeds, and wears a rain cape lest he doesn't have a day when he's commuting on a bike. Yehuda riding into a bike-swallowing pond on his commute is something I'd expect straight out of that strip.

-Kurt

Thanks again. I did spy my Carradice bag 1/4 full of water one hour after I returned! It's drying out nicely, now. I checked out a few of Mr. Smith's comic strips, and although they have a lack of joy, there is a certain truth to them. I hope it never floods like this again, because I am not eager to damage or compromise my bicycle(s).. I had gone about 75 feet into the water, and the puddle was about 300 feet long.

Folks,

I have an acquaintance with a '50s Roadster in Toronto, and he's looking for rod brake wheels/rims (26"). I thought they were all 28", but I stand to be corrected. I thought this would be the best place to ask.

Try the Raleigh Roadsters Facebook group too. Whatever you do, steer clear of those reproductions that are on eBay from the UK. The braking area is wobbly and they're impossible to true.

-Kurt

Took the Sports for a ride today for the first time in a looongg time, just three miles around the neighborhood but it's been over a year since I got severely distracted by house projects. Different saddle and stem/bar combo needed and they're waiting in the wings but it'll be a while before any bike work takes place.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...13e42f0369.jpg

The Dynohub system works just fine. I just wanted to give an update, and a salute to Sturmey designers.

Had no question that the Dynohub would make it out - those things will survive any apocalypse.

-Kurt

Hey all, I was wondering if there's a specific year where the quality of builds starts dropping?

I'm looking at two Raleigh Sports, one '71 and one '67 (identified from decals - thanks to The Headbadge page on Raleigh Sports DL-22: Visual ID/Decal Identification, I'd link if I could! ) and was wondering if, all else being equal, the '67 would be a better bike. Neither seller has the serial number listed so I don't know which location the bikes came out of.

Thanks in advance, I'm very much a novice who happened to fall down the Raleigh rabbit hole :lol:

Also, I was thinking of posting the info/ pics (once I hit 10 posts) to get people's opinions on which is the better option; would something like that go in the Classic and Vintage Bicycles: Whats it Worth? Appraisals ?

I don’t think you’ll see much difference between those model years. More distinct differences are a decade or more apart, e.g., some say the quality of chrome really fell off after the 1950s.

Any chance someone might have one of these early, serrated Sturmey-Archer washers that they can spare?

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...79047afc76.jpg


-Kurt

Hello and welcome to 3-speed land! I am no expert, but the way I understand it is that Raleigh never did lower their design or production standards. Depending on condition, either of these two bikes would be just as good, and give a comparable ride. Myself, I usually go for the older bikes if I can, but that is just my taste. Yours may differ. In regard to your second question, I would post photos here, at this sub-forum, rather than at Appraisals, because you may be looking for specific information to get the bike on the road and optimize its function. These are great bikes. Where will you be riding?

Twenty for ninety in NY. I'd buy it.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...57641332712588

https://scontent.fric1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...TQ&oe=6459521D

Looking for the complete headset (crown race, both frame cups, and the wide top race nut - don't need bearing balls or lamp bracket or lock nut) for a post-war Raleigh Sports/Superbe/Lenton. I rebuilt a 1953 Lenton hoping there was enough life left in the headset, but am finding the steering wants to lock straight-on. I figure I should just replace the whole headset at this point rather than fool around. Let me know if you want to sell or trade for other parts I might have. Thanks.

Thanks 1989Pre & nlerner ! Pre, I’ll mostly be riding on local streets for short errands (I’m in Watertown, about 20 min outside Boston) and casual rides by the river with my 5yrold who just got her first bike! The classic puttering about town basically.

Here are the two bikes I’m debating between:

Option 1:

$50, 1968 (from what I can tell by the decals/hub)
Frame looks to be in good condition (though pic quality is iffy so who knows). The description is literally just “Raleigh 3 speed bike”. That’s it. Seller doesn’t have much info other than it was his aunt’s old bike and she kept it clean. He doesn’t know frame size, but either the 21” or 19.5” would work for me (5’5” with a 30” inseam). Seat looks like it’s not original, maybe?



I wish I could post pics, but maybe this is enough info for someone with pic privileges to find it: It’s on FB marketplace, under:

Antique Raleigh 3 speed bike

$50 / Category: Hobbies / Listed 6 weeks ago in Mattapoisett, MA

If you go to Facebook dot com and add /marketplace/item/248278167554540/ the listing should come up.







Option 2:

Craigslist, $150, 1971. Way more description:

For sale: A Raleigh Step-Through bicycle manufactured in England in January 1971 complete with the leather Brooks seat upgrade. Fully reconditioned and ready for a summer of riding fun. Bike has been thoroughly cleaned and serviced. It has new tubes, tires, brake pads and period correct air pump. The three speed hub is working well and the bike is ready for your next adventure.



Listed in Boston Craigslist under

Vintage 1971 Raleigh Sports Step Through 3 Speed bicycle - $150(Cumberland)



Obviously 3x the price of the 1968 but it’s ready to ride, and between the new tubes/tires/brake pads probably come close to making up the $100 difference.





…so yeah, I’m pretty torn. They’re both bronze green too, so I can’t even be shallow and decide solely on paint color lol. If it were up to y’all, what option would you go with?

Is this for a 26tpi steer tube?

Yes - 26tpi Raleigh.