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-   -   For the love of English 3 speeds... (https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=623699)

arex 03-06-16 10:54 PM


Originally Posted by Velocivixen (Post 18589226)
I just paid for a powder coat, so if he puts stays on I'd have to have the fork redone. The powder coat place messed up and did not mask the silver "thimbles". I didn't want to make a fuss and just wanted the bike.

Any idea what they'd charge to re-do the fork, and properly this time? Might be worth the trouble just to be able to get the eyelets put on, especially if you could dicker them down a bit because of the thimbles.

Velocivixen 03-06-16 11:13 PM

@arex - I've thought about it. If this was my only bike I would be more interested in spending the energy to get things perfect. I like the bike, but I have others I like too. I do want another Twenty that I can keep closer to original. I miss the wide tires.

Kuupola 03-07-16 01:03 AM


Originally Posted by 3speedslow (Post 18589419)
By the 80's the quality of the AW hubs were less then perfect but functioning. From your description I would say two things might be going on. One your chain might be too tight. Second would be a possible need to clean and replace the lubricating oil and grease the non drive side bearings.

Does your hub have an oiling hole?

The hub does have an oiling hole, and the finish on all the parts suggest that this hub has not been used for more than few km. Before I got the wheel built, I flushed the inside with brake cleaner and then put very light oil in to protect it from rusting. Now, when I've fitted the wheel to my Peugeot, I put about 10ml of 2-stroke oil as that was what the LBS guys were using. The chain has about an inch of up and down slack, is that too tight?

edit: Would it be wise plant new AW-NIG internals to the hub?

BigChief 03-07-16 06:05 AM

I've changed my mind. I'm remembering the early 80s sports I cleaned up for a friend some years back. The quality of that particular hub was awful. If it continues to run rough, I'd consider swapping the guts from an older hub into the shell.

3speedslow 03-07-16 07:19 AM


Originally Posted by Kuupola (Post 18589603)
The hub does have an oiling hole, and the finish on all the parts suggest that this hub has not been used for more than few km. Before I got the wheel built, I flushed the inside with brake cleaner and then put very light oil in to protect it from rusting. Now, when I've fitted the wheel to my Peugeot, I put about 10ml of 2-stroke oil as that was what the LBS guys were using. The chain has about an inch of up and down slack, is that too tight?

edit: Would it be wise plant new AW-NIG internals to the hub?

You do seemed to have addressed already the possible issues I thought might be the causes. At this time I am at a loss as to what might be going on. It might just be you have a noisy hub. Is the shifting still to your satisfaction?

Kuupola 03-07-16 07:37 AM


Originally Posted by 3speedslow (Post 18589816)
You do seemed to have addressed already the possible issues I thought might be the causes. At this time I am at a loss as to what might be going on. It might just be you have a noisy hub. Is the shifting still to your satisfaction?

I do not have a shifter present, it is running on the third gear only right now. I seem to have found the cause of the rubbing, it seems to be the dust cap under the sprocket. It is a bit bent inwards, I might try and bend it out a little.

arex 03-07-16 09:27 AM

Vintage Green Raleigh Folding Foldable 3 Speed Bike Bicycle 16" | eBay

Anyone know what this thing is? Appears to have a SA rear hub, but those are not the old Raleigh cranks.

markk900 03-07-16 09:45 AM


Originally Posted by Kuupola (Post 18589845)
I do not have a shifter present, it is running on the third gear only right now. I seem to have found the cause of the rubbing, it seems to be the dust cap under the sprocket. It is a bit bent inwards, I might try and bend it out a little.

I was going to suggest the dust cap for the rubbing - one of mine did that too. Confirmed by running without the dust cap for a while just to check.

Not sure what you mean by "feeling the pawls disengage"? When freewheeling they simply ride over the things they engage with (what are those called anyway - the teeth that the pawls hook into?), when you apply forward movement the crank can rotate (almost completely freely) until the pawls drop into place but once in they are silent....the springs on the pawls are very light.

Usually crank rotation when you roll the bike is a side effect of having the cones too tight, but on at least one of my hubs by the time I got it to the point of the cranks staying still there was too much play at the rim so I live with the cranks rotating slightly when I am rolling the bike along.

Kuupola 03-07-16 09:48 AM


Originally Posted by markk900 (Post 18590145)
I was going to suggest the dust cap for the rubbing - one of mine did that too. Confirmed by running without the dust cap for a while just to check.

Not sure what you mean by "feeling the pawls disengage"? When freewheeling they simply ride over the things they engage with (what are those called anyway - the teeth that the pawls hook into?), when you apply forward movement the crank can rotate (almost completely freely) until the pawls drop into place but once in they are silent....the springs on the pawls are very light.

Usually crank rotation when you roll the bike is a side effect of having the cones too tight, but on at least one of my hubs by the time I got it to the point of the cranks staying still there was too much play at the rim so I live with the cranks rotating slightly when I am rolling the bike along.

The high gear pawls seem to stick to the hub shell and when I start freewheeling, I can feel them disengage and it sounds much louder than the normal pawl ticking.

markk900 03-07-16 09:52 AM

Did some grease get in there? A suggestion might be to take the hub internals out, clean the shell, and reassemble with a different oil. I have used regular motor oil (2 stroke oil should be light enough but depends on the brand perhaps it is stickier). Also, how cold is it where you are right now?

Kuupola 03-07-16 12:07 PM


Originally Posted by markk900 (Post 18590166)
Did some grease get in there? A suggestion might be to take the hub internals out, clean the shell, and reassemble with a different oil. I have used regular motor oil (2 stroke oil should be light enough but depends on the brand perhaps it is stickier). Also, how cold is it where you are right now?

It is right now around freezing temperature. I cannot get the internals out as I don't have proper punch that'd catch the notches, but I took the NDS ball cup out and flushed the hub with brake cleaner a few times, first through the ball race and then through the axle from the drive side.

markk900 03-07-16 01:48 PM

Brake cleaner is good for cleaning but does not leave any lube behind. However, for the purpose of testing you should be OK. Did the flush make any difference? You can try flushing with WD 40 through the oil hole (or indicator chain hole) - it will make a mess but definitely flush everything out.

As far as the notches go, depends if you have the square or crescent shaped notches, but careful (but forceful) application of a chisel or old flat bladed screwdriver has always worked for me.

arex 03-07-16 08:44 PM

Went to have a look at this Twenty tonight, and wound up bringing it home.

About the only things on it that aren't original are the CST tires. It's crusty and needs some love, but it's solid. The rear hub shifts fine, though you have to pull on the chain directly, all the cables are seized up.

Original fenders and a Pletscher diecast rear rack...not sure if it's aluminum or magnesium, aluminum seems more likely but it looks rather magnesium-y.

Not sure what to make of the brakes. They're long-reach, obviously, but they aren't marked as Raleigh...a hard-to-read script that says something like "Milberger" on one side, and "Baillard" on the other, but I'm only guessing at this.

http://i.imgur.com/kUMvcvT.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/22IXWUH.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/QkFbsHY.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/aottYDc.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/r8F9NQ7.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/3Cz4ici.jpg

nlerner 03-07-16 09:29 PM

Brakes are likely Altenburger Brilliant.

arex 03-07-16 10:23 PM

2 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by nlerner (Post 18591893)
Brakes are likely Altenburger Brilliant.

Ah ha...that would make sense. I was able to take some better pics.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=508323http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=508324

Velocivixen 03-08-16 01:28 AM

@arex - Hooray! I'm jealous. :thumb: Still look for one locally. Nearest ones are a pair in Seattle for $900!


I really hope and look forward to seeing you post your cleanup of this bike.

arex 03-08-16 07:21 AM


Originally Posted by Velocivixen (Post 18592178)
@arex - Hooray! I'm jealous. :thumb: Still look for one locally. Nearest ones are a pair in Seattle for $900!


I really hope and look forward to seeing you post your cleanup of this bike.

It's not the bike I thought it was. About a year ago, there was someone selling a white Twenty that was immaculate for only $125...I figured this was the same bike, because there's extremely few Twentys around here, and what're the chances of two white ones around here? The guy selling this bike, as it turns out, found the bike in an old barn he was cleaning out for an elderly customer of his. It's definitely been in a barn, with all sorts of barn-y bits stuck to it. I think I'm going to need to soak the frame in OA, judging by the inside of the seat tube, but it's otherwise complete and solid.

3speedslow 03-08-16 08:20 AM

1 Attachment(s)
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=508359I like! I bet that is the perfect bike for getting around in a big crowded city. White ones I assume are rarer?

I hope it cleanes up well. You never see the pumps come with these.

arex 03-08-16 11:15 AM


Originally Posted by 3speedslow (Post 18592556)
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=508359I like! I bet that is the perfect bike for getting around in a big crowded city. White ones I assume are rarer?

I hope it cleans up well. You never see the pumps come with these.

Yeah, I wish it had a pump, too. There's pump pegs, though, and I bet I can round up a short pump somewhere.

I dunno if the white ones are rare or not, but this one and the other one I saw advertised are the only ones I can remember ever seeing pics of.

gna 03-10-16 11:27 PM

I bought a white one. My wife liked it so much she claimed it. I had to go buy another Twenty. It did have the pump, though, but it's "Coffee" or "Root Beer," depending on your taste in beverages.

arex 03-11-16 06:56 AM

http://raleightwenty.webs.com/

There's a lot of good info here.

scale 03-13-16 08:53 AM

Im back working on my '54 robin hood. I do believe my drive side crank is bent. I can feel it as i ride and i can see it if i look close while spinning the crank on the spindle. I hit my local used shop and nothing. It is a raleigh built robin hood with the NR chainring but i dont much care if it is the bird one or not. I have one more coop to check. Even most used shops dont have cottered stuff around here. I hit the one i thought would have more of a selection but nope.

Velocivixen 03-13-16 09:24 AM

Pashley bikes online has basic silver frame pumps in two different lengths. The 12" fits great and I obtained one from @gugie, as he had a nice stash of them. Shipping from the UK from Pashley seems a lot.

DQRider 03-13-16 09:50 AM


Originally Posted by scale (Post 18605349)
Im back working on my '54 robin hood. I do believe my drive side crank is bent. I can feel it as i ride and i can see it if i look close while spinning the crank on the spindle. I hit my local used shop and nothing. It is a raleigh built robin hood with the NR chainring but i dont much care if it is the bird one or not. I have one more coop to check. Even most used shops dont have cottered stuff around here. I hit the one i thought would have more of a selection but nope.

Try the folks at Yellow Jersey: Yellow Jersey

Drive Train Pair of cranks with crank pins ("cotter pins") $29.95
Right side crank 46t $19.95
Left side crank $19.95
BSC 24tpi BB Set= crank bearing cups, spindle, bearings $24.95



These are for the 28" Roadsters, but they also carry the other old 3-speed stuff. Very good customer service, and fair prices, in my experience.

Good Luck!

mirfi 03-13-16 11:19 AM

3 Attachment(s)
Hey All,

I'm excited, put an old seat and new seat post on, then took my 'new' R20 on it's first shopping run. About a 10 mile circuit I do on Saturday morning. First stop, DollarTree. Took bike in store, tried some baskets on, bought one and installed it on curb front of store. Then hit the sale at the Harborfreight and some other stores, with a filled basket had to go home.

Sad during the ride I rode off a curb and bent front fender. :-(

R20 performed very well, impressed with the range of the three speeds. Certainly capable of being a shopping bike.

Now is the scary part, I NEED a mirror, bottle holders, lights, bell, new pedals, but I WANT to upgrade the rims and brakes, etc

Also, I found a shop in the area that is geared towards vintage bikes. Baynesville. Gonna visit them this week.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=509367http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=509368http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=509369


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