Chrome mudguards are generally not see before the 60's. The Hercules chainring flipped back and forth more than a couple of times depending on your market as did the headbadge. Here's a Sports model from the 53 catalogue. Like to see your badge too. Take it with a grain of salt because there seems to be many variations of Hercs, just like Raleigh.

I've found the cure for that is to knurl the clamp area of the handlebar. I have the Stein Knurling tool which works great, but you can also use a center punch to create divots with raised ridges to accomplish the same thing.
https://www.steintool.com/portfolio-...knurling-tool/

Here's my head badge...
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...9a5efa84b6.jpg

That looks correct for the era, as do the brakes and even the spiral cable coil. Could be early mid 50's. The Coronation decals could have been kept on for more than one year and I've never heard of the Type B hubs having date codes but it could have happened. Nice 3 speed!

Thanks much. Nice tool. Not inexpensive.

Yes, nice bike.
Those white paint highlights are often a sign of a Canadian export model.
I guess we liked 'em.

Here's something pretty rare. Except for a slight bend in the fork, this is in amazingly good shape for a kid's bike. By the late 60s, the kid market was totally dominated by the Stingray style bikes. I don't think Raleigh sold many of these. Not in the US anyway.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...8b796a6f0e.jpg
https://nh.craigslist.org/bik/d/vint...746657954.html

When we were kids, my sister had one of those with the step-through design. That was just before the high-rise style blew away the market. These traditional bikes are so nice, and it's a shame they're so rare.

That is bad ass! Simple utilitarian elegance at it's best.

Found a good one. Terrible pictures though. The lack of original chainguard really hurts the top of the scale asking price. Still, tall frame, early 50s good looking finish and maybe rims from what little I can see. The idea of refinishing and distressing a chainguard to fit this bike is a challenge that would be fun for me. But, a bit too far away and not the project I was looking for.

https://vermont.craigslist.org/bik/d...755433777.html

Welcome to the forums!
Watch those Twentys... if you leave them alone in a dark place the multiply! :eek:

I have 3 (I think), one was my daily rider for a couple of years, still ride it at least once a month.

Aaron :)

It worked!
well so far Haha
so I was able to plug my 4 speed hub into the 3 speed shell mounted in the 700c wheel. That 4 speed really was NOS it looks brand new on the inside, no oil whatsoever on the interior, just beautiful bronzesque gears.
I'm letting it sit with some light weight machine oil inside it's new home. I'll let it drain out for a few days before I go next steps.
I do(as always) have a question though...
can I check this shifting manually? As in by hand? The indicator chain is in place but I'm having issues finding the gears. I have read that you can shift the 3 speeds by hands as a way of checking uncounted hubs. Can I do it with the 4 or are the gearing ratios too specific to really tell?

What about this superbe? Advertised as 70’s
 

1953 BSA Update
Weather and work have delayed progress.
I've removed the Dynohub front wheel and moved it to my Canadian build Superbe.
Lots of little details to sort out.
Brakes, shifting, warped back wheel.
New chain still needed but all in time....
I have been riding it around the neighbourhood for a shakedown.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...f31eb79f7d.jpg
Totally OT
Bought a 1965 Mercury 500 motor for the boat today..
Missing the bottom unit but have got a couple of good leads.
Yet another project!
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...bd3a3f100e.jpg

I've seen that one on Boston's CL. Replacement fork and lack of fenders/chainguard and post/saddle makes it no more than a $50, and that's assuming the frame isn't bent (which it might be if the fork was replaced).

Worth it for the price if you wanted to build a Scorcher.
Forks are wrong.
Tall bike a plus.
Chrome looks good.

It's been my experience that, unlike lightweight frames, these 20-30 roadster frames don't bend even if the fork is badly bent back. I'd still take a close look at the top tube, but in all my years of fixing old Raleighs, I've never come across a roadster frame that got damaged from a front end bump. I'd bet the frame is fine. Parts bike though +1 on the 50 bucks.

I love this bike!

Thanks BC!
Here's the bike as originally advertised.
I didn't make a move on it.
The guy that DID buy it decided a month or so later
that he didn't want it so I bought it.
I think he didn't want to deal with the headset issues...
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...06dbba0c17.jpg

Since we know this bike was originally in club trim, I would be very tempted to spring for light weight plastic mudguards that looked as much like the original celluloids as possible, but then, I'm not very practical when it comes to my bike projects. I like to say that I loose money on every bike I fix, but I make it up in volume.

You're right!
There's no money in these things.
Those mudguards would probably cost more than the bike
and increase it's resale value by $00.00
I do it for pleasure.
My wife encourages this "hobby" as she
knows that if I don't have a project, I'm liable to
get into trouble......

That will be perfect! Sorry but I gave away my Merc bottom ends when I got rid of my mid 50s Mk55s.

The guy I bought it from has another motor (just waiting on serial number) at a very fair price.
I just couldn't fit 2 of them in the back of the car....
Mk 55 looks like a good motor..
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...3a7f9f8147.jpg

Are you referring to pedal strikes on the shift cable? I always use a top-routing to avoid this. Unless it's a step-through, of course. But women tend to have smaller feet... :rolleyes:

No, he's talking about pedals hitting the ground during turns. It's a very bad thing to happen on a fixed gear. I don't know the answer to his question, though.