I think I'll stop buying bikes for awhile until I see one with a quadrant shifter.

The driver is a 1950s splined driver with its original 22 tooth cog on it. I do have a 22 tooth threaded cog and an original 1930s-40s threaded driver, but I prefer the splined type because it's easier to tinker with gear settings if I decide I want something other than 22.

The grips are Dover brand, but are of cardboard construction. The core is cardboard and they are coated with a layer of early plastic-type material. It's not a modern plastic - it's almost like a heavy Frabikoid type material. But the core structure is actually a heavy-duty cardboard. My guess is they're from the 1930s and are of a budget type. Celluloid-type and rubber grips are a little nicer, but these are pretty good for how old they are. The left grip is delaminating to a degree. I may be able to fix it with some clear epoxy though.

I think original style grips add a lot to the time machine effect of these bikes. They are so prominent, even as you ride. I'm building a research folder on the subject. Your information is an important addition. Thank you very much. When I get enough information to make it interesting, I'll post it here. I'm afraid it won't be very definitive, mostly images and speculation, but I hope by gathering what I can and putting it into one place it may be interesting and helpful.

lowest gear trouble on the 4 speed Frankenstein
 

So (predictibally) I'm having trouble getting into the lowest gear on my 4 speed. Hub went in great and installing bits and pieces wasnt too rough. It rides wonderfully! I have been able to tune it in so that I can get gears 2-4 but the spring mechanism on my shifter doesnt seem strong enough to push down and engage the notch for the lowest gear.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...2aba4fd1f3.jpg

Arrow pointing at spring (it's in 4th gear in this pic).
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...3bd1b67504.jpg

Other end of springy bit.

If I push down on the plate under the spring with my finger or a screwdriver while it's in the low slot it locks in for a bit, but likes to slip out.
I've spotted a couple on Ebay and will also see if the person I bought this from has any others I could purchase(you never know till you use it if it works and he sold it to me for cheap so no complaints there).
If that doesnt work or isnt economical, I wonder if this would work.... New 4 speed sturmey archer shifter.
Or if anyone has suggestions on how to tighten that spring I'd be stoked. Haha
I dont know if the notches on the new model would line up with the same clicks of the older set up. Does anyone know?
It sure is fun, even when frustrating, working with this thing. It is turning our pretty well if I do day so. It doesnt have much on the beautiful machines you guys often put together, but it's not bad for a scorcher....https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...6f48ebe123.jpg

To take apart the trigger, you'll need the correct punch, around 1/16" and a vise. You need to drift out the two main pins. These have short turned down ends that are press fit into the rear case wall. Once these are out, everything comes apart. As you slide the assembly out, be careful not to loose the two small pins that are loosely fit in the chromed trigger. Most times, the main pins will drift out without deforming the rear case wall, but it has happened that they were so tight that they made soft dimples. In that case, you need a steel bar or piece of hardwood that fits snugly into the case to use as an anvil to hammer it flat again. Reassembly is the tricky part. Here's the most important tip. While the case is empty, put the main pins in, line them up with the hole in the rear case wall and give them a push with your finger. You want them to start in a tiny bit. Enough to stick in place. If they don't, carefully stone or file the top of the pin to make a slight lead so it will. Also notice if one pin fits a hole better than the other and remember which is which as you reassemble. Once you have that done, you're ready to reassemble. First, you place the new or retensioned leaf spring in it's place in the case. Then you slide the pawl up underneath the spring and replace the main pin that holds it. Give the pin that push with your finger to locate it in it's press fit hole and drive it home. Then, you assemble the chrome trigger, the loose pins and the hardened cam plate. Pic below incase you forgot how to locate the parts. Then carefully slide this assembly (without loosing the loose fit pins) into the case, under the pawl. Now, since this assembly is under spring pressure, it's tricky to get the main pin aligned with the holes. First, with the face plate up, locate the pin through the face plate, front plate of the case and into it's hole in the cam plate. Then, flip it over and, while holding the case somehow, I like to use the edge of a table and my left hand and hold the chrome trigger with my right, try to line up the pin with the small hole in the rear case wall and give it a push with your finger until it sticks into place. Flip it over, drive the second pin home and you're done!
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...959b69de1e.jpg

Thanks! [MENTION=398265]BigChief[/MENTION]
I've got those NOS leaf springs on the way but I think I'll see if I can get this one bent back into shape.
wish me luck!
I'm gonna need it.... haha

It's amazing what people come up with on eBay. I bought 6 of em. That says a lot about my roadster addiction. Here's a pic of this style shifter apart.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4434/...10cf8071_z.jpg
shift003 by Billy Bones, on Flickr

^^ Always best to store the bike with the shifter in high.

Could you go into a little more detail on your method for removing the pins?
I picked up a metal punch and clamped down the trigger. I have tried for the better part of an hour to push these things through and it doesnt seem to be going anywhere...
good chance I'm missing something, or maybe I need more dedication haha
by drifting do you just mean punch it out with a hammer? Or am I driving it through with another tool?

Newer over bar plastic B shifter works the new BSR hub , so much more effortlessly than the 90 era AW3 and steel trigger on this bike...

http://www.cyclofiend.com/working/im...-1IMGP0010.jpg

Thanks for these last couple of posts BC - I recently bought a shifter for a roadster project, and although I haven't mounted it yet, it seems to have spring issues. The lever flops around rather than clicking into each indent. I think it'll have to come apart for a rebuild.

Mine did the same before I put a cable in, I do belive the tension for the cable has a lot to do with the clicks working well. On mine it was only that lowest gear that it couldnt do. The three upper speeds worked just fine so even with a loose spring you may be okay. If I had accepted 2-4 I could have left it as is but i have a 3 speed and i wanted 4 speed! Haha
Bigchief shared with me a link to this Ebay listing , you want to buy one if you think you'll need it. I did.
Though I've nearly given up on ever getting these pins out. I think in my case I'll be waiting on the newer 4 speed shifter to see if that works.

Yes, you need to drift them out with a hammer and punch through vise jaws open just enough to clear the pin heads. Then you use the closed jaws of the vise to hammer them home reassembly. Here's the vise and hammer I use.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c15d46d104.jpg

I made a flickr album of shifters
https://www.flickr.com/photos/150931...57686501575124

They're still out there..
$20.00 (CDN)
Mind you, the forks look a little bent...
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...7435a8cf8b.jpg

Good advice.

1980 Tourist
Listed at $375.00 here in Toronto..
I doubt it will sell at this price.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a65287aa0e.jpg

Yeah, overpriced. The rims look bad in the photo. That's the nail in the coffin for the big roadsters. Although, I think I see 36/36 spoke wheels. Did Raleigh change the 28" wheels over to 36 at the same time as the 26" wheels? That would make things a lot cheaper. 36H Westwoods are available even in alloy today. It's the 32/40H rims that are nearly impossible to find. I do like the B66 saddle.

Agreed. Not worth the price.

[MENTION=38859]SirMike1983[/MENTION] - That Phillips is brilliant. Well done!

-Gregory

Here's a nice one. Short frame but still, a good 'en.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c9489a7e14.jpg
https://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/bi...776927538.html

That's lovely and pretty rare. I think Sheldons first bike was an Elswick Hopper.

Yes, I'm especially fond of this one. If it were a tall frame, I'd be out 250 bucks.
From the 1953 catalog ...VCC library

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...59528d0a13.jpg

Nothing special and it's missing the left crankarm and pedal (and cotter) but "Can be worth alot of money."

https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/...774022553.html

1960's AMF Hercules - $30 (n. Chesterfield)

https://images.craigslist.org/00o0o_...Rq_600x450.jpg




bicycle type: cruiser
condition: good
frame size: medium
handlebar type: other/unknown
make / manufacturer: Hercules
suspension: none (rigid)
wheel size: 26 in
vintage 3 speed Hercules missing one crank. Can be worth alot of money.

A 1961 or so Superbe listed here in Toronto @ $200.00
It's been up for a while with no takers....
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...6d7d69ac2e.jpg

I saw, what I believe was a Canadian model with this style paint. Black and white with chrome fork ends. Very sharp looking Superbe. As far as I know, we had the choice between bronze green and bronze green here in the US.