What brand/make bag is that on the Superbe? I like the retro "black doctor's bag" element. I'm in the process of getting a second bag for a project.

I will have to keep an eye out for you when I am back in April... saw a Peugeot l;ike that at a bike swap there and am pretty sure whoever made that probably produced my daughter's Raleigh Saffron as it is an English badged, Italian made non folder.

Conradpdx, the rear rack attachment on your Raleigh looks home made, would you care to show more details? I am having a hard time with mine, it always seems to loosen itself after a few bumps! Thanks.

I just received a set of Kool Stop pads for my 1980 Raleigh Tourist and realized that I had not looked closely enough at the pad holder frames before ordering. I thought for some reason that the frames were open on the end opposite the wheel rotation and that I could simply hammer out the old pads and press fit in the new ones. Of course as it turns out the pad holders completely enclose the existing pads and my plan requires some modification. Can I reasonably expect these holders to do my bidding if I put them in a vise and pry down / open the end tab on the feed in end and then proceed to hammer out the old and hammer in the new pads? I've found a few youtube vids on the pitfalls of adjusting rod brakes but nothing that addresses the issue of installing the pads themselves on the closed version of the pads so I come to the font of all wisdom on English three speeds.

While I have the bike at my mercy I thought to adjust the chain tension as well. What makes for a good measure of proper chain tension on this machine?

Thanks for any suggestions

Was not looking for it, but a Ladies LTD came our way Thursday.Was able to ride it around the before setting the fenders on it for the obligatory picture.
Put new tires on, repacked bearings, and polished the chrome a very small amount, but other than that, this is as found. Yes, I know it still needs work. We're supposed to get snow over the next couple days, so by the time it warms up again, it should be pretty much all set.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8390/8...434db476_n.jpg
P3230123 by 50N40W, on Flickr

What's pretty cool is that it's a 23" frame - I've seen some in small and medium sizes, but this fits our household much better.

That is a rare one in the step through! Good find, I look for those on the opposite end of the spectrum, my bride is 5' and wee bit, so 17" frames are about as large as we can go.

Aaron :)

I'll be adding a few more photos in a day or two. For now I only have this one photo. This was my dad's bike and now mine. It's (I believe) a late 50's Hercules 3 speed.

Hieronymous -the rear mount on my bike is stock as far as I can tell (or at least it's the same as the step though Sports Delux that I bought for the lights/dynos) from the same year, you're probably thinking that it's not because I have a frame lock mounted on the back of the seat stays.

As for your rack coming loose, perhaps try adding a lock washer to the nut side of the assembly....That should fix that nicely.

Sir Mike - the bag is a vintage/ perhaps antique German bike bag which my wife bought me for a birthday. I like it a lot, it's just big enough for a tube patch kit, screw driver, small adjustable wrench and a Kryponite bike cable which I use with the above mentioned lock for securing my bike and seat. Though it gets tight with all that in it, I've personally always thought the stock Raleigh bags look a little clumsy. Plus I don't currently have one (the last of the items I need to get this bike stock))- still trying to decide on if I should go back to a B-72 I've got, I do like the honey 17 a lot.)

and 65'r- just pm me when you get to town, a little meet up at HUB, the Cult, or elsewhere wouldn't be out of the question. I'm always looking for a good excuse for a ride, a brew, and good conversation. I'm in SE so really anywhere is possible (though I'd prefer not up in the West hills)...

I've been repairing a 1958 Phillips (pre-Raleigh) for a friend of mine. The rims were scarred and bent so I replaced them with Sun CR-18s. The rear hub is an SW. We'll see how long that lasts... anyway, has anyone noticed the obscene prices for pedals on eBay?? I needed a right side- the one on the bike had a bent spindle. Before laying down $80.00 for a pair of ebay specials, I decided to try a local bike shop that is one of those used/donation/charity places. We are blessed that we have a good number of these shops in the Twin Cities. I found the pedal I needed for $2.50...

So the Phillips lives again; I found some NOS John Bull brake pads and applied a lot of Kroil to the cables. The only thing that is bugging me is the oiler for the crank. Its missing and in its stead is a woodscrew... I'd be fine if I could find a machine screw with the right thread- any thoughts??

Not trying to be the bringer of bad news but...

I'm willing to bet the original threads on the oiler were damaged when the wood screw was used as a replacement. Though I'm the first to admit that I could be wrong as well. But there is a good chance of it.

If it is, it's probably not worth it to find - or have manufactured a tap for it.

I think we know a bunch of the same people... Shawn G and I tend to hit Velocult on a fairly frequent basis and I always enjoy talking with Sky about obscure bike stuff.

They make full replacement Kool Stop pads that fit the Roadster Brakes? I have also done the pry the end loose and install new pads before, but never on a roller brake bike.

Chain should deflect some...not much, actually adjusting the chain on a Roadster is pretty easy, you have the adjusters at the rear.

Aaron :)

Perhaps one of these could be used?

http://images1.mcmaster.com/Contents...e/1229kc1l.png

http://www.mcmaster.com/#oil-caps/=m1p2rv

Sweet- thanks!

picking this old gal up tonight, hopefully she is complete the pictures are pretty bad, the seller wanted to throw in all 3 bikes for more, i only want the raleigh..
http://images.craigslist.org/3K33Ge3...a025561ce0.jpg

That looks very interesting, Gordo. Rod brakes, full-sized man's frame. Take the other two bikes to cinch the deal if you need to, and donate them.
I will look forward to seeing clearer pics soon.

These are what I bought from bike parts central http://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails.cfm?ID=3276 . I'll know tomorrow how good a fit they turn out to be. Glad that you've successfully done the pry and pound technique on the brake holders. The one video I found on youtube showed the open end version of the frames so I was a bit anxious about damaging the metal brake pad frames beyond use by folding open the ends. It'll be a few weeks before I get back to the bike to see if the kool stops make the rod brakes act a bit more brakes rather than slo mo bike decelerators. Thanks for news.

Couple more shots I took.

I picked up the Raleigh... 40 bucks... everything is there... pics to come

pics as promised




http://i.imgur.com/cKlea3rh.jpg

http://imgur.com/a/XhdyQ

The 1965 Dawn rod and drum is back on the road. I am still awaiting warmer weather to paint and install the chain case.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yLmxnAewhn...0/IMG_2957.JPG

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cY0tYoUkn2...0/IMG_2960.JPG

Just needs some of that special spit to get it polished right up.

Beautiful bike. And I enjoy your blog.

Looking very fine, Sir Mike!

Open the rearward facing end, that way if it happens to snap off the pads will still stay in the holders by braking force.... been there done that. :o

Aaron :)

Nice! And 2 thumbs up on the blog - especially your "paint tips"...

Looks like another three speed is on it's way here... they breed like rabbits.

:)

Would like input from some of you "tinkerers extraordinaire" out there who've been at this longer than I have...

I picked up a nice Grant Petersen-era 12-speed Bridgestone Kabuki last year and had planned to put a 3-speed hub on it and pretty much do it up almost exactly like rhm's Lambert [Post 1863] but with upright handlebars more like criscoshoes's Raleigh Gran Sport conversion [Post 1134].

While I still plan to use that basic design, I am really, REALLY considering one of the SA 5-speed hubs as can be viewed here: http://www.sturmey-archer.com/produc...4/id/33/tech/1

Here's what I'd like to find out:

1. Is the overall axle length on these hubs long enough to span the distance between the opening on the chainstays? [And if not, is such a product made these days?]

2. Are the "spoke calculator" websites out there accurate and anyone have recommendation[s] on the best one?

3. Best place to buy quality spokes/nipples/etc. at best prices?

4. There are at least 5 kinds of shifters available from SA for this hub. I'm leaning toward the twist grip. Anyone see a downside to that? [I'm not going to be racing or anything]

Thanks to all for your thoughts...

Twistgrips work the best with IGHs in general although I have a soft spot for the traditional SA shifter for three speeds.

Yes, I believe it is.

I like this one:
http://wheelbuilder.jmoore.me/

Ebay seller "childhood_dreams". Or send me a private message and I'll give you the guy's email address.

No, if that's what you want, go for it. I like the bar end shifter for drop bars, though. Another option is the one on which you shift up with your thumb and down with your fingers. I kinda liked it but found it fragile.

I used that 5 speed hub. I think it comes with a 175mm axle so you can space it to your frame before you build the wheel up... they're pretty flexible in that regard. I used the grip shifter the hub came with and it was fine but I also wanted drop bars so I bought that shifter and it's nice enough. I wouldn't stand up on the pedals of the 5 speed hubs they do have a soft key or something inside that does break apparently... I never had problems but someone on the IGH yahoo group mentioned it. If you buy the thumb shifter or bar-end either one will also work as a downtube shifter, so there is that too... they're also all metal unlike the trigger and grip shifters.