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-   -   For the love of English 3 speeds... (https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=623699)

PalmettoUpstate 03-13-15 07:25 AM


Originally Posted by desconhecido (Post 17626633)
All the Raleighs (five) that we have with steel bars have steel stems. Because of some discussion here, a while back I measured four of the bars' clamp area and found them to be all a bit different, but close. Too small for an aluminum stem designed for 25.4 mm, though.

I have the green Sprite in the "queue" for rehabilitation so it's easy enough for me to pull out the bikes in front of it and take a measurement on the handlebar. I'll do that this weekend.

PalmettoUpstate 03-13-15 07:37 AM

(Thread gauges are nice. I bought one from Amazon which has both tpi and metric for less than $7 delivered. Looks like the cheapest available now is about $13 delivered. They are handy and easily used to impress your friends. Cheap ones are ok -- you don't need Starrett quality.)

+1 that.

I just got one a couple of weeks ago; Nashbar brand, and it has checked out OK. Kinda small though, so needs special accommodation to keep up with its whereabouts.

http://www.amazon.com/Nashbar-Thread...e+thread+gauge

PalmettoUpstate 03-13-15 10:03 AM


Originally Posted by PalmettoUpstate (Post 17595207)
Anyone know where a [late 70's] Raleigh "Roadster" fits in the Nottingham firmament: https://newjersey.craigslist.org/bid/4909794169.html

Had they dropped the "Sports" model for that model?

Ha, was doing a lookabout on the Sprite Model and at least "solved" this question about the "Roadster" model that looks like a Sports: 'The Headbadge' - Vintage bicycle information

The bike in the NJ ad is "Flamboyent Red"...

Velocivixen 03-13-15 10:14 AM

My headset is pristine, not broken, had NON-Raleigh threading or sizing anywhere, and was not made by Raleigh. I likely won't change it, but if I do I wondered what you'd use. I have all necessary tools for the normal headset removal & installation (I made my own - parts from hardware store & work great).

desconhecido 03-13-15 12:11 PM


Originally Posted by PalmettoUpstate (Post 17627118)

I just got one a couple of weeks ago; Nashbar brand, and it has checked out OK. Kinda small though, so needs special accommodation to keep up with its whereabouts.

The Nashbar one looks exactly like the one I bought which was advertised on Amazon as "Ice Toolz". Comes out about the same price, too. Yesterday I was searching on Amazon for "thread gauge" and I didn't see the Nashbar one.

Yes, it's a small tool. I have mine in a little plastic box with the feeler gauges. If I don't keep up with stuff like that, I lose it and end up buying another. I don't want two or three sets of thread gauges, so I have to be anal about it.

So, Amazon shipped that itty bitty thing in the same box that they shipped a big box of K-cup coffee things. I knew the coffee had come. because I was drinking some. Happened to check status on Amazon and it said the thread gauge had been delivered.

"Hey, did you open up that box with the coffee in it?"

"Yeah, I did."

"Was there anything else in the box?

"No, just the coffee."

"Amazon says that there was a small tool in that box, too."

"There was nothing in there except the coffee."

"Where's the box?"

"I threw it out yesterday. There was nothing else in there except the brown paper stuff."

"Recycle or regular?"

"Recycle. There was nothing else in there except the brown paper stuff."

"I can't sleep until I check. I'll be right back."

"It's after midnight. There was nothing else in there except the brown paper stuff!"

"Okay, I found it. I'm going to bed."

"There was nothing else in there except that brown paper stuff!"

"Okay. Turn off the TV when you come to bed."

"Goodnight. There was nothing else in there except that brown paper stuff."

El Segundo 03-13-15 12:16 PM


Originally Posted by desconhecido (Post 17627866)
The Nashbar one looks exactly like the one I bought which was advertised on Amazon as "Ice Toolz". Comes out about the same price, too. Yesterday I was searching on Amazon for "thread gauge" and I didn't see the Nashbar one.

Yes, it's a small tool. I have mine in a little plastic box with the feeler gauges. If I don't keep up with stuff like that, I lose it and end up buying another. I don't want two or three sets of thread gauges, so I have to be anal about it.

So, Amazon shipped that itty bitty thing in the same box that they shipped a big box of K-cup coffee things. I knew the coffee had come. because I was drinking some. Happened to check status on Amazon and it said the thread gauge had been delivered.

"Hey, did you open up that box with the coffee in it?"

"Yeah, I did."

"Was there anything else in the box?

"No, just the coffee."

"Amazon says that there was a small tool in that box, too."

"There was nothing in there except the coffee."

"Where's the box?"

"I threw it out yesterday. There was nothing else in there except the brown paper stuff."

"Recycle or regular?"

"Recycle. There was nothing else in there except the brown paper stuff."

"I can't sleep until I check. I'll be right back."

"It's after midnight. There was nothing else in there except the brown paper stuff!"

"Okay, I found it. I'm going to bed."

"There was nothing else in there except that brown paper stuff!"

"Okay. Turn off the TV when you come to bed."

"Goodnight. There was nothing else in there except that brown paper stuff."


:lol:

desconhecido 03-13-15 12:33 PM


Originally Posted by Velocivixen (Post 17627560)
My headset is pristine, not broken, had NON-Raleigh threading or sizing anywhere, and was not made by Raleigh. I likely won't change it, but if I do I wondered what you'd use. I have all necessary tools for the normal headset removal & installation (I made my own - parts from hardware store & work great).

The Tange Levin headset is a nice, inexpensive (about $20 or so) headset. Looks like the old Campagnolo headsets from the 70s and 80s. I installed one in my old Falcon frame, replacing an indexed Campagnolo. Looks good, feels good, lasts a long time. Now, I need to put that bike back together.

PalmettoUpstate 03-13-15 12:47 PM

"I threw it out yesterday. There was nothing else in there except the brown paper stuff."

Ha-Ha!

Been there for sure...

Yeah, its pretty tiny, I still have to come up with a fail safe place for mine LOL!

PalmettoUpstate 03-13-15 01:06 PM


Originally Posted by Velocivixen (Post 17626269)
Universal Cycles has a store in Portland & they know me by name! I'm in there all the time and great customer service. They're local and they have an area with cats for adoption- hard to place cats with Feline Leukemia- helping out a no kill shelter. They used to let a couple cats roam the store ( it's a big store), but someone complained. Anyway they have tons of product and are fantastic to work with. I'm sure other outlets carry the Jagwire "Basics" kits.

I like what I see on their website, have you had them do any wheel building for you?

desconhecido 03-13-15 03:54 PM


Originally Posted by PalmettoUpstate (Post 17627948)
"I threw it out yesterday. There was nothing else in there except the brown paper stuff."

Ha-Ha!

Been there for sure...

Yeah, its pretty tiny, I still have to come up with a fail safe place for mine LOL!


It's all good, no big deal. It is tiny and easy to miss if you're not looking for it. Roles could easily have been reversed.

Measuring tapes and steel rules are inexpensive and I've got a bunch of them spread around so that there's always one within reach no matter what I'm doing. The Starrett tools and small measuring tools (even the inexpensive ones) I have to be more conscientious about as I'm not a real orderly person by nature.

PalmettoUpstate 03-13-15 04:07 PM


Originally Posted by desconhecido (Post 17628389)
Roles could easily have been reversed.

Oh yeah, guilty as charged here too. FWIW I have found this to be one of the more useful tools I have around for working on these old bikes, but get it on sale for $10: Digital Calipers - Save on these 6 Inch Digital Calipers

...and while you're there, get one of these as your "freebie": 4" Magnetic Parts Tray

Velocivixen 03-13-15 04:40 PM


Originally Posted by PalmettoUpstate (Post 17627993)
I like what I see on their website, have you had them do any wheel building for you?

No. I have Sugar Wheel Works in Portland build my wheels. Now that I know how to build a wheel I will do it myself, unless it's something unusual. Even then I'd research, ask questions, then do it myself anyway.

Here is my $10 SA AW Hub, which I removed from the wheel and cleaned up a bit. There is absolutely NO date code. There's the # 36 on outside of one flange, indicating how many spoke holes. Oil port is rubber, and outer nut (not mounting nut) has ridges all the way around on the inside. Sprayed WD-40 on inside and it turns well, but sounds Dry. I will take it apart to deep clean, as I just love doing this stuff.

Only other hint I have is that it was on a box style steel rim that said "Jaan Chyang" on it. It was 26" and I think the tire was 26 x 1 3/8. It came off a Raleigh made Robin Hood. So...what year or range of years is this?

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8624/...3d9ed5a2_z.jpgSturmey Archer AW Hub by velocivixen, on https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7639/...6d539937_z.jpgSA AW Hub by velocivixen, on https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8729/...55984cec_z.jpg18 tooth cog w/Circlip by velocivixen, on https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8734/...171d2ece_z.jpgLeft side axle SA Hub by velocivixen, on https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8675/...66c8f01a_z.jpgRight Side SA Hub by velocivixen, on Flickr

nlerner 03-13-15 04:55 PM

My understanding is that S-A hubs with those grooves on the shell came out in the 1980s.

PalmettoUpstate 03-13-15 05:04 PM


Originally Posted by Velocivixen (Post 17628482)
No. I have Sugar Wheel Works in Portland build my wheels. Now that I know how to build a wheel I will do it myself, unless it's something unusual. Even then I'd research, ask questions, then do it myself anyway. There is absolutely NO date code.

I'm thinking maybe it would be cool if you'd put on this thread what: 1]tools and 2]videos you recommend for wheel building. [more on this as the dialog progresses]

That hub looks like it has a poorly stamped "6" and "8" on it and from what I have gleaned here, on the FTLOE3S thread, the stamping on the SA hubs was always a little spotty - and sorta horrible toward the end of the line in England.

I have a dilapidated Sports that was built in Malaysia and that might be what you have in that hub - one from the Rim...

That particular bike is dismantled, to be turned into a women's mock path racer, but I'll check the hub as still laced to the back wheel if you like.

Thanks for the contributions to the art & science!

desconhecido 03-13-15 05:06 PM


Originally Posted by nlerner (Post 17628512)
My understanding is that S-A hubs with those grooves on the shell came out in the 1980s.

I have a 40 hole with a 69 date code that is smooth. Also, the 79 Sports I have has a hub with 79 date code and it has the grooves. So, they were putting them out there as early as 79 which, allowing for rounding error, is pretty much early 80s. Many readers of this thread have 70s era AW hubs -- might be able to narrow down when the change from smooth hub to grooved occurred. But, who knows if it happened all at once?

Do you have any thoughts on the missing date code? Did SA stop putting the code on there or did this one slip through? How about hub shells distributed as repair parts, did they have date codes? Seems to me that I've seen NOS shells for sale on that auction site everybody loves to hate (including me), but I can't recall for sure.

PalmettoUpstate 03-13-15 05:17 PM


Originally Posted by tbo (Post 17626258)
I guess I could get Kool Stops for the Tekro R559's, but I can't use the Continental style I took off with the old calipers. The new brake pads with the R559's seems very good enough for now, and I might get Kool Stops when replacements are needed.

And yes, she has mirrors, outrageously bright LED lights, Hi-vis vest, bell, reflectors in the rims, you name it.

I'd be interested in knowing what kind of accessories you settled on: LED lights, Hi-vis vest, bell, etc.

As I expand our empty-nester biking horizons I'm finding the need for good info on these things - along with cold weather clothing - is very crucial. Thanks!

markk900 03-13-15 05:43 PM


Originally Posted by desconhecido (Post 17628548)
Do you have any thoughts on the missing date code? Did SA stop putting the code on there or did this one slip through?

I think you can see a partially stamped date code in the second picture....just didn't hit the stamps hard enough.....not aware of any parts with codes on them - most of them are pretty small :)

As to the grooves - I have a 72 and a 74 hub both with grooves so even with rounding I think the hub could be early 70s.

El Segundo 03-13-15 05:48 PM

I have a 1971 AW which is smooth and a 1973 AW which has the grooves same as Velocivixen's hub. So maybe the grooves were added around 1972?

arex 03-13-15 05:56 PM

I'm probably wrong, but for some reason, I'm recalling that someone said that SA stopped putting date codes on them during the 1980's or something. Someone can confirm or deny that.

arex 03-13-15 06:00 PM

1 Attachment(s)
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=438931

There's more clearance between the tire and the crown than it looks. However, there's not much. Even though it clears it while spinning freely, that fine clearance may present a problem while on the road. I might have to go back to the Continentals. Oddly, the Marathons are listed as 700Cx38, but 40-622 ISO.

desconhecido 03-13-15 06:01 PM


Originally Posted by markk900 (Post 17628624)
I think you can see a partially stamped date code in the second picture....just didn't hit the stamps hard enough.....not aware of any parts with codes on them - most of them are pretty small :)

As to the grooves - I have a 72 and a 74 hub both with grooves so even with rounding I think the hub could be early 70s.

I imagine that the date codes on the hubs were probably stamped in some machine automatic process. Probably changed the stamps every month. Maybe this hub was made at the end of the month -- or whatever period of time was specified for maintenance/quality control. Wouldn't reject a batch of hubs for missing/illegible dates, would they? Surely not in the 70s or later.

El Segundo 03-13-15 06:06 PM


Originally Posted by arex (Post 17628671)
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=438931

There's more clearance between the tire and the crown than it looks. However, there's not much. Even though it clears it while spinning freely, that fine clearance may present a problem while on the road. I might have to go back to the Continentals. Oddly, the Marathons are listed as 700Cx38, but 40-622 ISO.

Looks pretty tight but when the cable is attached there should be more clearance under the calipers.

El Segundo 03-13-15 06:09 PM


Originally Posted by Velocivixen (Post 17628482)
No. I have Sugar Wheel Works in Portland build my wheels. Now that I know how to build a wheel I will do it myself, unless it's something unusual. Even then I'd research, ask questions, then do it myself anyway.

Here is my $10 SA AW Hub, which I removed from the wheel and cleaned up a bit. There is absolutely NO date code. There's the # 36 on outside of one flange, indicating how many spoke holes. Oil port is rubber, and outer nut (not mounting nut) has ridges all the way around on the inside. Sprayed WD-40 on inside and it turns well, but sounds Dry. I will take it apart to deep clean, as I just love doing this stuff.

Only other hint I have is that it was on a box style steel rim that said "Jaan Chyang" on it. It was 26" and I think the tire was 26 x 1 3/8. It came off a Raleigh made Robin Hood. So...what year or range of years is this?

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8624/...3d9ed5a2_z.jpgSturmey Archer AW Hub by velocivixen, on https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7639/...6d539937_z.jpgSA AW Hub by velocivixen, on https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8729/...55984cec_z.jpg18 tooth cog w/Circlip by velocivixen, on https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8734/...171d2ece_z.jpgLeft side axle SA Hub by velocivixen, on https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8675/...66c8f01a_z.jpgRight Side SA Hub by velocivixen, on Flickr

I would say is is worth the $10.00.

gster 03-13-15 06:19 PM


Originally Posted by El Segundo (Post 17628688)
I would say is is worth the $10.00.

Absolutely worth $10.00. A couple of lock washers plus postage are more than that.

Narhay 03-13-15 06:27 PM

All AW

I have a 1972 - smooth shell
1978 - shell with grooves
1980 - shell with grooves

JohnDThompson 03-13-15 07:08 PM


Originally Posted by markk900 (Post 17628624)
As to the grooves - I have a 72 and a 74 hub both with grooves so even with rounding I think the hub could be early 70s.

I have several AW hubs. All of them from 1972 and before (53, 62, 69 72, 72) have smooth shells; all those 1973 and newer (73, 74, 76, 83) have the ribbed shells, so I'm guessing the changeover was 1972-73. All mine have date codes, so an unmarked, ribbed shell is probably newer than 1983.

sykerocker 03-13-15 07:33 PM

A couple of bike boom era AW's are sitting on my parts shelf - both smooth.

El Segundo 03-13-15 08:19 PM

My Raleigh Superbe frame (21") does not have pegs for a pump. Most of the pictures I have seen have the pegs, even my Sports has the pegs. Any ideas on why pegs would omitted? Was the pump and peg optional?

Schwinnsta 03-13-15 08:29 PM

I have a 72 or 73 Sport with the same grooves on the hub. There is a 1 faintly stamped on it. I think this came up earlier in the thread.

Velocivixen 03-13-15 08:52 PM

Update: Still dismantling it. There were changes in the shape (fine detail edges) of the clutch and changes in the indicator pin shape along the way, so I'll take close ups of those. SA Heritage site is where I live when it comes to finding details, and this thread, of course.

Thanks for the input. So if it's after '83 were quality control issues situated by then or still sloppy?

It's a 1969. In the right light you can see it. Can't get the ball ring off to save my life. Everything else is off, cleaned, etc. One cone is pitted, indicator pin bent and bearing cages need to be replaced. Other than that everything else I can see is good.

Other than making a ball ring tool or buying one from the Gentleman Cyclist, any ideas? I'm going to try penetrating oil overnight. It's off the wheel, so it wants to spin while hitting it to get ball ring out.


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