Bike Forums

Bike Forums (https://www.bikeforums.net/forum.php)
-   Classic & Vintage (https://www.bikeforums.net/forumdisplay.php?f=181)
-   -   For the love of English 3 speeds... (https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=623699)

FBOATSB 01-09-20 03:24 PM

Triumph
 
Anybody in Central Iowa bidding on this?
https://www.shopgoodwill.com/Item/83430814
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...6cc4f491c.jpeg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c8c20bb57.jpeg

arty dave 01-09-20 04:38 PM

I was wondering if anyone had done this before - this is what I want to make for my S5 build, a double pulley using a vintage top tube mounted shifter for the left bell crank:

(From Bulgie in the thread https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...ey-archer.html)

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ba34b87d5c.jpg

bluesteak 01-09-20 04:40 PM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 21277195)
No harm in putting on a set of standard 26" 3 speed wheels.
Looks like you might need a donor bike anyway.
You can usually find a ladies' bike for $20-$50.00 to harvest parts from.

I have been looking for a donor bike, the dropouts are too wide for an SA hub so I am looking for a Raleigh sprite with a 40 hole hub and a 3/32 chain wheel.

gster 01-09-20 05:08 PM


Originally Posted by arty dave (Post 21277448)
I was wondering if anyone had done this before - this is what I want to make for my S5 build, a double pulley using a vintage top tube mounted shifter for the left bell crank:

(From Bulgie in the thread https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...ey-archer.html)

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ba34b87d5c.jpg

Mine has one of these w/ enclosed cables
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...547050a71c.jpg

gster 01-09-20 05:35 PM


Originally Posted by bluesteak (Post 21277452)
I have been looking for a donor bike, the dropouts are too wide for an SA hub so I am looking for a Raleigh sprite with a 40 hole hub and a 3/32 chain wheel.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...cac97e24c1.jpg

BigChief 01-10-20 04:36 AM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 21277506)
Mine has one of these w/ enclosed cables
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...547050a71c.jpg

Right now, my Sprite has a handlebar mounted Suntour Powershifter and housed cable running all the way to a cable stop on the seat stay to operate the bell crank. The right side is the usual trigger with top tube stop/ open cable/ guide wheel system. I know I prefer an open cable/ guide wheel to a fully housed cable to operate a trigger. It seems that an open cable would have less friction and lend a better feel to the bell crank shifter also. I just couldn't get along with the SA top tube stick shifters. Hated em. Also now I wish I routed the left side shifter along the down tube. The top tube looks cluttered with 3 cables.

gster 01-10-20 06:47 AM

Here's an amazon review I wrote for some inner tubes I purchased...
https://www.amazon.ca/review/R3HZ9G8..._rv_eml_rv0_rv

gster 01-10-20 07:22 AM


Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 21277961)
Right now, my Sprite has a handlebar mounted Suntour Powershifter and housed cable running all the way to a cable stop on the seat stay to operate the bell crank. The right side is the usual trigger with top tube stop/ open cable/ guide wheel system. I know I prefer an open cable/ guide wheel to a fully housed cable to operate a trigger. It seems that an open cable would have less friction and lend a better feel to the bell crank shifter also. I just couldn't get along with the SA top tube stick shifters. Hated em. Also now I wish I routed the left side shifter along the down tube. The top tube looks cluttered with 3 cables.

I like the look of the throttles, but from a practical point of view, I prefer the triggers mounted on the handle bars as well.

clubman 01-10-20 08:38 AM


Originally Posted by brianhamp (Post 21277775)
I have a question for the Sturmey Archer people.... Did Sturmey Archer stop or slow down production in 1962 ? I have been looking for a AW hub (or any SA hub) dated 1962 but cannot seem to find any... Was it maybe an "Off Year" for them?

That's a very good question because I have seen an abnormal amount of 1961 bikes

gster 01-10-20 10:38 AM


Originally Posted by brianhamp (Post 21278185)
Me too... and 1963's ... I am glad it's not just me...

I'm sure I've got a '62 on one of the bikes..

jamesj 01-10-20 10:48 AM

In taking apart the Raleigh colt everything was going so great the drive side crank cotter decided to not want to move. I thought it was coming out but it was just the cotter bending.
The non drive side came out perfect but I also discovered the non drive side crank has a slight bend. Need to figure out my next plan of attack.



https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d69f0d1623.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d4b9e178b0.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...da4f9a0408.jpg

gster 01-10-20 12:47 PM


Originally Posted by brianhamp (Post 21277775)
I have a question for the Sturmey Archer people.... Did Sturmey Archer stop or slow down production in 1962 ? I have been looking for a AW hub (or any SA hub) dated 1962 but cannot seem to find any... Was it maybe an "Off Year" for them?

You might be onto something....
I've got two '61's and a '63.....

dweenk 01-10-20 12:52 PM


Originally Posted by jamesj (Post 21278415)
In taking apart the Raleigh colt everything was going so great the drive side crank cotter decided to not want to move. I thought it was coming out but it was just the cotter bending.
The non drive side came out perfect but I also discovered the non drive side crank has a slight bend. Need to figure out my next plan of attack.



https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d69f0d1623.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d4b9e178b0.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...da4f9a0408.jpg

You should be able to bend that back into alignment. A vise, towel, and hammer should put it right.

gster 01-10-20 01:53 PM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 21278606)
You might be onto something....
I've got two '61's and a '63.....

They do exist
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ad8ae60a0a.jpg

bluesteak 01-10-20 02:48 PM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 21277544)

Where did you get that image?

I assume it is a sales poster rather than a catalog. I still havenít found my bike in any period materials.

Can you get handle bars like those?

Salubrious 01-10-20 03:10 PM


Originally Posted by jamesj (Post 21278415)
In taking apart the Raleigh colt everything was going so great the drive side crank cotter decided to not want to move. I thought it was coming out but it was just the cotter bending.
The non drive side came out perfect but I also discovered the non drive side crank has a slight bend. Need to figure out my next plan of attack.



https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d69f0d1623.jpg

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...da4f9a0408.jpg

There is a tool that was built specifically to straighten bent steel crankarms. I have one that was made pre-war by Elgin. They are straightened fairly easily with that tool while on the bike.

For the cotter pin I would apply some Kroil (Penetrating-Lubricating Oils) to the pin and give it a day or so. Then I would try it again, only repositioning the press as best I could to apply the force so as to push the bend back in the other direction; IOW a little off to one side.

gster 01-10-20 04:33 PM


Originally Posted by bluesteak (Post 21278774)
Where did you get that image?

I assume it is a sales poster rather than a catalog. I still havenít found my bike in any period materials.

Can you get handle bars like those?

I found that on the interweb.
I'm sure you can find some suitable drop bars
out there.

gster 01-10-20 04:36 PM


Originally Posted by dweenk (Post 21278613)
You should be able to bend that back into alignment. A vise, towel, and hammer should put it right.

Big Chief had a good tutorial posted here
a while back.
Basically reefing on it (in place) with a pipe.
it works

BigChief 01-10-20 06:14 PM


Originally Posted by jamesj (Post 21278415)
In taking apart the Raleigh colt everything was going so great the drive side crank cotter decided to not want to move. I thought it was coming out but it was just the cotter bending.
The non drive side came out perfect but I also discovered the non drive side crank has a slight bend. Need to figure out my next plan of attack.



https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d69f0d1623.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d4b9e178b0.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...da4f9a0408.jpg

Bending these crank arms is easier than you would think. Seeing when it's straight is the most difficult part. I'm happy with it when I can't detect any pedal wobble when I ride. Holding a straight crank arm up against it makes it easier to guess when it's straight. You could chuck this arm in a bench vise and use a pipe for leverage. Folded cardboard or pieces of inner tube works well for protecting the finish as you work the arm. Go slowly and check a lot.

BigChief 01-10-20 06:34 PM

Oh, you also have a bent cotter. My plan B for this is essentially supporting the crank from underneath and smashing it out with a husky punch and hammer. I set the stand low with the wheels just off the cement floor. Then I drill a hole in the end of a 2x4 to clear the cotter as it comes out. I wedge the 2x4 between the crank arm and the hard floor. Now, there's a couple extra things I do to protect the finish and make the hammer force more efficient. I protect the chrome with electrical tape and saw off the bent end of the cotter. Then I center punch a dimple in the center of the fresh surface so the drill won't skid off. I start with small drills and work my way up until I have a good sized counter sink in the cotter. This will keep the punch from sliding off and damaging the arm. I have this husky punch with a pointed end. I think it's meant for setting finishing nails. That punch fits into the countersink. Then I take a big heavy hammer and hit hard. So far, this has always worked for me.

gster 01-11-20 03:06 AM


Originally Posted by brianhamp (Post 21279208)
Is it on a bike? and if so which one? I noticed Raleigh has a sale brochure for 1962

It's on a Rudge for sale on Ebay.

alexnagui 01-12-20 06:14 AM

The BSA Star Rider I posted here last summer came with a '62 AW hub. Here is a picture of it.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0c458780f1.jpg

PeterLYoung 01-12-20 08:31 AM


Originally Posted by Salubrious (Post 21278811)
There is a tool that was built specifically to straighten bent steel crankarms. I have one that was made pre-war by Elgin. They are straightened fairly easily with that tool while on the bike.

For the cotter pin I would apply some Kroil (Penetrating-Lubricating Oils) to the pin and give it a day or so. Then I would try it again, only repositioning the press as best I could to apply the force so as to push the bend back in the other direction; IOW a little off to one side.

I don't remove the nut on the cotter pin until the pin is moving, just crack the nut to start with and rotate a small amount applying the press until the nut is down to the crank then repeat. Once the pin is completely loose remove the nut and press the cotter pin out. This way the pin is supported by the nut and does not bend. Has worked every time for me.

Dan Burkhart 01-12-20 08:35 AM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 21278036)
Here's an amazon review I wrote for some inner tubes I purchased...
https://www.amazon.ca/review/R3HZ9G8..._rv_eml_rv0_rv

Haha. I voted this helpful.:lol:

browngw 01-12-20 10:19 AM

Brampton Cog Change
 
Since completing round one with refurbishing the circa 1956 Royal Nord President and riding it a little, I think it is time to rethink the gearing. For the ups and downs of our little town a lower ratio would be appreciated. With the original 700 x 38C alloy wheels the whole range is higher than I need for this type of bike. The beautiful original chain ring is 46 tooth and the cog is an 18 tooth. I have changed SA cogs many times in the past but they were all the type that slip on and have the spring wire retainer. This one is threaded on and did not respond to my attempts to remove it. Afraid of harming this very special old bike and not sur of what I was doing I left it be. The Brampton hubs were supposedly made under licence to Sturmey Archer but appear different. Anyone had any experience doing this? Were older SA hubs threaded?

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ef957bc1be.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...576031786a.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0bed99247e.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...86f77d2d02.jpg
Comparison with SA Trigger
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...35bfaad75d.jpg

nlerner 01-12-20 10:20 AM

I don't have any pics of an AMF Hercules that I fixed up for my brother, but I'm fairly sure the S-A AW hub was dated 62 13!

BigChief 01-12-20 12:59 PM


Originally Posted by browngw (Post 21280918)
Since completing round one with refurbishing the circa 1956 Royal Nord President and riding it a little, I think it is time to rethink the gearing. For the ups and downs of our little town a lower ratio would be appreciated. With the original 700 x 38C alloy wheels the whole range is higher than I need for this type of bike. The beautiful original chain ring is 46 tooth and the cog is an 18 tooth. I have changed SA cogs many times in the past but they were all the type that slip on and have the spring wire retainer. This one is threaded on and did not respond to my attempts to remove it. Afraid of harming this very special old bike and not sur of what I was doing I left it be. The Brampton hubs were supposedly made under licence to Sturmey Archer but appear different. Anyone had any experience doing this? Were older SA hubs threaded?

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ef957bc1be.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...576031786a.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0bed99247e.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...86f77d2d02.jpg
Comparison with SA Trigger
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...35bfaad75d.jpg

My 1951 Rudge had the threaded driver. I believe Sturmey archer started using the 3 splined driver in 52 or 53, but the Brampton version continued to use the threaded type. I swapped in a later 3 spline driver so I could adjust the overall gearing of my Rudge. I think...but don't know a SA splined driver might also work in the Brampton since it's a licensed copy. I, so far, haven't taken the cog off the old driver so the outer dust cover is still being held captive, but I had a spare to use. Here's pics of the original and my replacement.


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...f0a177f2c7.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ef688536f6.jpg

jackbombay 01-12-20 01:29 PM


Originally Posted by nlerner (Post 21280919)
I don't have any pics of an AMF Hercules that I fixed up for my brother, but I'm fairly sure the S-A AW hub was dated 62 13!

13? Is that a typo or was it really stamped with 13 for the month?

nlerner 01-12-20 02:54 PM


Originally Posted by jackbombay (Post 21281147)
13? Is that a typo or was it really stamped with 13 for the month?

Not a typo on my part! Sturmey Archer, on the other hand, who knows?

arty dave 01-12-20 03:34 PM


Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 21281130)
My 1951 Rudge had the threaded driver. I believe Sturmey archer started using the 3 splined driver in 52 or 53, but the Brampton version continued to use the threaded type. I swapped in a later 3 spline driver so I could adjust the overall gearing of my Rudge. I think...but don't know a SA splined driver might also work in the Brampton since it's a licensed copy. I, so far, haven't taken the cog off the old driver so the outer dust cover is still being held captive, but I had a spare to use. Here's pics of the original and my replacement.


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...f0a177f2c7.jpg

I did the same on an early 50's hub.
I'd been unable to remove the threaded cog while in place on the wheel, but it was easier to remove once it was out of the hub. I clamped a tool handle that fit into the slots of the driver into my vice, sat the driver on the tool handle, and then used a chain whip to remove the cog.


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:38 PM.


Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.