If I want a vintage ride experience I carry it in the saddlebag. I figure that's what people did before water bottle cages, spandex and other racing gear became the norm for the casual rider.

Actually, if you wanted a real vintage ride experience you'd have to stop at the pub when you got thirsty. ;)

10 miles without water in this weather seems dangerous. I attach mine to the handlebars. I haven't had to change any major components on my bike, and my accessories are not period correct.

True, or maybe stop and "brew up" hot tea if you want the UK experience. For the US mid 60s vintage experience I think I'd need to stop at a corner "variety store" and buy a glass bottle of Coke or Pepsi (urp). No one sold water back then (charge $ for a drink of water? There would have been riots) and few drank it outdoors except from a garden hose or a canteen.

Mmmm....hose water is best when taken from some random house in the midst of a ride....makes ya feel like a teenager again.

I'm not sure if this fits in this thread, but I'm wondering about fitting a chaincase to a Sports that doesn't have the threaded boss for chaincases.

I think that somone could JB weld a nut (that's been filed to fit) to the chainstay, fitting the chaincase over that, and securing that with an appropriate bolt would do. Can JB weld hold up to that kind of stress?

Chain guard clamps work?

http://webcache.googleusercontent.co...www.google.com

I don't mean the partial chainguard, I'm talking about the full oilbath chaincase, the kind that comes on a DL-1. All the DL-1s that I've seen that come with the chaincase have a theaded stud right behind the bottom bracket.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mydutch...57626258126432

Check out this blog for photos how one forum member attached theirs to a bike without brazed on mounts.
http://graywolfphoto.com/journal/200...getting-there/

I'd think it could, given proper surface prep and decent sized filets.

Surface prep would likely require paint removal in the area to be bonded, followed by solvent cleaning. Scuff up and then degrease the nut. Be sure to have adequate material between the nut and the tube. Build a decent filet around the full perimeter. Nothing ridiculous but generous with a smooth contoured surface - about 50% of the wall height on the nut.

Do you intend to drill the tube or trim the screw? If the fastener is too long and bottoms out on the tube, it will act to pop the nut off the tube.

My problem is; it is currently is 12 miles to the nearest watering hole...and they don't serve pints :(

Aaron :)

I intend to test fit the screw-chaincase-nut combination before epoxying the nut to the frame and file off the excess screw that shows, maybe with the addition of a washer. I've done something similar to a daruma bolt on another bike so that the tires could squeeze under the fork crown.

"Pints?! It comes in pints?"

-- Perregrin Took --

Raleigh & Redcoat, at the Old North Bridge, Concord, MA

http://img28.imageshack.us/img28/153...2011124346.jpg

^Great looking bike! I just bought one that looks nearly identical. Which, as a matter of fact, I have a question about....

So last Sunday I went to the flea market looking for another 3 speed, preferably in black. Lo and behold, there one was, a great looking and rust-free 1970 Raleigh Sports with all original components (including tires). In my giddy excitement, after giving it a quick ride, I threw down $30 and headed home.

Unfortunately, when I took a closer look I started to notice some issues. For one thing, there is a large kink in the handlebar. I don't know how I missed it earlier but it needs to be replaced (which also requires replacing the stem). There is also a bend in the front brake caliper that I am not sure I can straighten out. The bolt attaching the brake to the frame is also crooked. It is missing the rear reflector. The leather on the Brooks saddle is in beautiful condition, but one of the metal coils underneath has snapped (it is still rideable though, but shucks!).

Anyway....I also have a 1976 Raleigh-built Phillips 3-speed that I recently fixed up (I posted a pic a couple weeks ago). It looks and rides great, but it is definitely not as cool as the Raleigh.

I am trying to decide whether or not it makes sense for me to strip the Phillips of parts for the Raleigh, but I am hesitant to do so since the Phillips now looks and rides great. What should I do? I know that these bikes don't have much monetary value, but from a 'collectors' point of view, how much better is a 1970 Raleigh Sports than a 1976 Phillips? Would it just be better for me to hope to find another 3-speed to take parts from?

I'd look for another donor bike to fix up the Raleigh vs cannibalizing your nice Phillips.
Likely you can find a parts bike for a low price, because they made so many, and many people did not take such especial care of them.

Check out this posting from the Appraisal forum - (perhaps one of you can provide additional input to the OP.)

hello everyone,

I'm having a hard time finding 650A Panaracer Cul De La Vie tires for my
Raleigh sports here in the U.S.
Anyone know who has any in stock? Longleaf has one, I need 2 :o
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/h...g?t=1311103145

Harris claims to have them. Call and see if they are really in stock.

I tried that, too, but when you click on "Add to cart," they're listed as out of stock. I'd also suggest calling Harris and/or Longleaf and asking when they'll be re-stocked. I've only ridden those tires briefly, but they seemed very nice (and I've ridden the 650B version extensively and like them).

Neal

Up until this thread I didn't even realize they were even available for 590 rims. Isn't this the singular tire that is causing so many people to want to convert their bikes to 650B just to use it?

You're likely referring to the Grand Bois Hetre. Folks are having custom bikes built around that tire.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-i...0/Ebisu_19.jpg

Neal

Oh, yeah. Thanks Neil. I tend to lump all tires that are >$25 into the same box in my head: Too rich for my blood.

Called Longleaf... He said there's only one distributer bringing them to the U.S. &
He has no idea when they'll get more in.
I'm guessing it's because 590 is not a popular size rather than anything to do with the
earthquake, because 650B tires are easy to get.

Didn't realize how hard it was going to be finding good quality 650A rubber.
Panaracers, Schwalbe, & even Michelin World Tours are all -OUT OF STOCK

I wanted "nothing but the best" for this Raleigh,but it looks like el cheapo tires for it
until the hipsters decide 650A is the new "in" tire. :lol:

The Kenda K40's are actually pretty darn nice tires if you ask me. And for >$20 for the pair shipped you can't complain about the price.

Some please stop me!

I am considering buying a 70's Raleigh DL-1 Tourist. The bike is good condition except for the following: the Brooks saddle and seat post have been replaced with an entirely inappropriate aluminum post and padded hybrid looking saddle, the tires are original but had no air and have cracking in the sides, the gear shifter has been replaced with a modern type SA shifter. The paint is good and the chrome is good. The hub appears original but I did not see a date on it. I did not ride it though I did straddle it. The bike is slightly too big for me. I ride a large Sports model but the top tube on this one encroaches on my junk, but just barely, but I feel its presence. The top tube is higher than large Sports. The seller is asking $300 which is out of the question. I don't really need another bike but I was kind of intrigued with the slacker looking geometry of seat and fork tubes and 28" wheels. In this part of the country one does not come upon these very often. Given the nice paint and chrome I am considering offering $220, though that may be insulting to him. To make the bike right will take some work and money. I have an old Brooks 66 that I retired because its torn but is still comfortable. I have a seat post and extra gear shift mechanism. I did not try to pump the tires to see if they still hold air but they might and it will probably make the top tube still higher. The pump and saddle bag are gone.

Any comments?

Worth what you are willing to pay for it. Got pictures? They made them up until 1984 IIRC.

I think I paid about $135 for mine but had to travel ~1,000 miles (one way) to pick it up, fortunately my company paid for the trip :D

Sounds like this one needs a bit of work to bring it back up to par. Decide how much it is worth to you and if you are willing to pay and play or wait for something else to come down the pike. I like mine a lot, don't ride it much at the moment, but when I do I remember why I bought it.

Aaron :)

http://inlinethumb24.webshots.com/47...600x600Q85.jpg

The men's DL-1 comes in 2 sizes: 22" and 24". You may be looking at the 24", but may prefer a 22". The men's 22" is actually the easiest DL-1 to find from what I have noticed, so maybe you want to get one that fits you better in the end? You may want to measure the one you are looking at to be sure. The prices on these things are all over the place. It is worth what you want to pay for it.

Hi all - quick question for the experts...I have a 1969 Raleigh Superbe with the orginial Brooks saddle...problem is...the saddle is fried beyond hope, so much so that I can't even tell what model it is...would this year and model call for a B66?

Thanks!

Does the saddle have springs? If so, it's a B-66, which is what came on the Superbe.

Neal