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-   -   For the love of English 3 speeds... (https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=623699)

gster 04-21-20 08:34 AM

Oddball
Here's a Raleigh Winkie....
An adult(?) trike with a lever front brake.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d04506d755.jpg
It has an odd pressed metal front fork as well.

Fat Tire Trader 04-21-20 10:03 AM

I just finished this RSW 16.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...25a087109e.jpg

gster 04-21-20 10:59 AM

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...eafaafe31b.jpg

gster 04-21-20 05:21 PM


Originally Posted by Fat Tire Trader (Post 21431074)

Nice work.
is it lacking a rear brake or did they come that way?

JohnDThompson 04-21-20 05:40 PM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 21431895)
Nice work.
is it lacking a rear brake or did they come that way?

I'm thinking "3-speed coaster brake hub."

clubman 04-21-20 05:43 PM

+1. A '64 TCW MKIII I'd wager.

Fat Tire Trader 04-21-20 07:59 PM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 21431895)
Nice work.
is it lacking a rear brake or did they come that way?

It has a coaster brake.

zukahn1 04-21-20 08:17 PM


Originally Posted by Fat Tire Trader (Post 21432163)
It has a coaster brake.

This was pretty common on 60's and 70's 3 speeds to have a rear coaster and a front hand brake. This was done to save cost and simplify things for causal riding all one needed to do was oil the rear hub through the port and chain occasionally and air up the tires and they were good for several thousand miles of riding which is more than most 3 speeds ever got.

gster 04-23-20 07:38 AM

A Selection Of Current Toronto Kijiji Listings
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0b384b52bc.jpg
CCM 3 Speed
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...65c20127b8.png
A German 3 speed @ $250.00. I can't tell the brand.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...dd163e7a7d.jpg
A nice Ladies Raleigh 3 speed.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...97138f6214.jpg
Men's Coffee 3 speed.

Ged117 04-24-20 06:56 AM

So I'm going to eventually build up my '54 Armstrong 531 road frame with a Williams chainset/crankset to drive my FW hub, which is built into a 700c wheel. Does anyone know what spindle length the English Club style bikes use? Then I can find the correct cup-and-cone bottom bracket and spindle for the Williams crank and chainline with my hub gear. This will be a long-term project to collect some period parts for a late winter build.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...86e62791ff.jpg
1954ish Armstrong Consort straight-gauge 531 frame and fork

nlerner 04-24-20 07:39 AM


Originally Posted by Ged117 (Post 21436144)
So I'm going to eventually build up my '54 Armstrong 531 road frame with a Williams chainset/crankset to drive my FW hub, which is built into a 700c wheel. Does anyone know what spindle length the English Club style bikes use? Then I can find the correct cup-and-cone bottom bracket and spindle for the Williams crank and chainline with my hub gear. This will be a long-term project to collect some period parts for a late winter build.

I have a spindle marked TDC#2 that I believe is intended for single chain-ring use. Measures 120mm end to end, and it's symetric. Each side from end to bearing shoulder measures about 32mm.

Ged117 04-24-20 11:38 AM


Originally Posted by nlerner (Post 21436207)
I have a spindle marked TDC#2 that I believe is intended for single chain-ring use. Measures 120mm end to end, and it's symetric. Each side from end to bearing shoulder measures about 32mm.

Thanks Neal. Now, I'm in search of what to search for with this machine. Seems like GB Coureur brakes, handlebars, and stems go for $$ these days, but I'd like to outfit it with period brakes, bar, and stem. I may go '70s on brake levers because the small bits in '50s GB levers are very old and likely brittle now.

thumpism 04-24-20 07:06 PM

Dutch! I'd like to have this.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...5478700215020/

https://scontent.fric1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...09&oe=5EC87949

ascherer 04-24-20 07:56 PM


Originally Posted by Ged117 (Post 21409857)
I've come to terms with the fact that the 1950 Superbe is too small for me. It is the 23" size, but I'm 6'2" or 6'3"ish and mostly legs. The seatpost is too short, and the handlebar stem is way too short. I can't ride it anymore unless I can find a longer post and a longer stem. I'd really like to enjoy this bike and put it in the regular ride and (one day...) commute rotation without sore knees. Anybody got the scoop on longer stem / seatposts that fit these bikes?

Thanks all.

6'3" 35-36" inseam. I got a BMX layback seat post which helped a lot. Should be findable online.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...f9c67ceb04.jpg

BigChief 04-25-20 06:41 AM


Originally Posted by ascherer (Post 21437426)
6'3" 35-36" inseam. I got a BMX layback seat post which helped a lot. Should be findable online.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...f9c67ceb04.jpg

This whole bike is very well done. The seat post seems like a perfect adaption for your height too.

ascherer 04-25-20 08:32 AM

Thanks, BigChief . It's a workhorse, my commuter and grocery runner for the last 5 years. Save for a few tweaks it's mostly stock. I'm about to give it to my son, as I've built my International as a townie with a Sturmey 8-speed and upright bars. Same spirit and brand, lighter and taller. I've thought of posting it here but I respect the focus of this thread, the best 3-speed resource on the planet! :)

jackbombay 04-25-20 09:01 AM


Originally Posted by thumpism (Post 21437352)

I actually did a fair bot of work on one of those a little while back it belongs to the father of the guy that runs the metal shop for the company I work at, when it first showed up I figured it was like most old bikes that were old but rarely ridden, but this one had some miles on it, it was nice to get it all dialed in for trips to the store form the metal shop. That one was a 10 speed though, but same color.


Originally Posted by ascherer (Post 21437426)
6'3" 35-36" inseam. I got a BMX layback seat post which helped a lot. Should be findable online.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...f9c67ceb04.jpg

My folding 3 speed with the same bridge in the background!

https://i.postimg.cc/h4w6fghD/F9A006...53DFFC4B26.jpg

I also "summited" Manhattan on my folder, as someone that spent a lot of time BMXing I did I ride it to the top of the rock,

https://i.postimg.cc/yYZ5R5SF/A4540E...C9C928F9BD.jpg

thumpism 04-25-20 09:33 AM


Originally Posted by Ged117 (Post 21409857)
I've come to terms with the fact that the 1950 Superbe is too small for me. It is the 23" size, but I'm 6'2" or 6'3"ish and mostly legs. The seatpost is too short, and the handlebar stem is way too short. I can't ride it anymore unless I can find a longer post and a longer stem. I'd really like to enjoy this bike and put it in the regular ride and (one day...) commute rotation without sore knees. Anybody got the scoop on longer stem / seatposts that fit these bikes?

Seatpost: Find an integrated post that you think will be tall enough; there are many 350-400mm posts on the market these days that should do for you. If you can't find one in the correct diameter, buy a larger diameter one and have a machine shop turn it down for you. I have had this done and the machine work was cheaper than the cost of the post, believe it or not. It's the stoker post in this photo, one that I selected for its setback and had turned to fit the frame.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...455049a456.jpg

Stem: Nitto Technomic. These are legendarily the tall post of choice and are available in several reaches as well. Clamp diameter is slightly larger than that of the stock Raleigh bar so you might have to shim the bar or use a more modern bar to fit the clamp. Thing is, the stock stems are actually pretty tall and only a Technomic gives you much more height and only the Technomic will give a choice of reach.

You can also try an inexpensive stem riser to boost the stock stem higher but some folks consider these to be unsightly.
Stem riser
https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/af6...2&odnBg=ffffff

I have used the combo of a quill adapter with a riser threadless stem to get the rise and reach I wanted on a different bike. There are lots of possibilities but the traditional look might suffer. Good luck!
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...60750fb4bf.jpg

Ged117 04-25-20 07:09 PM


Originally Posted by ascherer (Post 21437426)
6'3" 35-36" inseam. I got a BMX layback seat post which helped a lot. Should be findable online.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...f9c67ceb04.jpg

That's very cool ascherer . How do you find the angle of the saddle while reaching the grips comfortably? I think your bar stem is set a bit higher than mine. I might raise it a touch. I need to find some foam for my B66 to shore up the leather. It's caved in a bunch.

ascherer 04-25-20 08:30 PM


Originally Posted by Ged117 (Post 21438744)
That's very cool ascherer . How do you find the angle of the saddle while reaching the grips comfortably? I think your bar stem is set a bit higher than mine. I might raise it a touch. I need to find some foam for my B66 to shore up the leather. It's caved in a bunch.

I believe the stem is as high as it goes safely. I wanted to keep as much of the original equipment as possible. My commute is about 4.5 miles each way and I found I was feeling cramped reaching for the bars and wanting to slide my butt back. The seatpost resolved both issues. Sprung Brooks saddles want their nose up to the point where it freaks out folks that havenít ridden them. Seems counter intuitive but itís remarkably comfortable, especially on rough city streets. Have you tired tightening the adjusting nut at the nose of the saddle?

clubman 04-25-20 09:25 PM


Originally Posted by ascherer (Post 21438861)
...Many Brooks saddles want their nose up to the point where it freaks out folks that haven’t ridden them.

fify.

gster 04-26-20 07:42 AM

The tension bolt on the seat should be tightened in very small increments
and never with a wet/damp saddle.
I prefer buying used saddles for the fact that they're already
broken in and considerably cheaper......
I've also used leather dye to spiff them up a bit.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...10607e4fc1.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...aa33e933ce.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...2158a7702f.jpg

ascherer 04-26-20 02:45 PM


Originally Posted by clubman (Post 21438925)
fify.

Fify? Some kind of Martimes reference?

gster 04-26-20 02:58 PM


Originally Posted by ascherer (Post 21440289)
Fify? Some kind of Martimes reference?

means Fixed it For You...
I had to look it up.
perhaps you had a spelling mistake?

ascherer 04-26-20 05:14 PM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 21440309)
means Fixed it For You...
I had to look it up.
perhaps you had a spelling mistake?

I believe my usage was appropriate, referring to B66/67/Flyers. From the Brooks site: "The Flyer and its ladies model Flyer S are classically sprung saddles for long distance trekking..." They need their noses aimed even higher than non-sprung models.

clubman 04-26-20 05:31 PM


Originally Posted by ascherer (Post 21440531)
I believe my usage was appropriate, referring to B66/67/Flyers. From the Brooks site: "The Flyer and its ladies model Flyer S are classically sprung saddles for long distance trekking..." They need their noses aimed even higher than non-sprung models.

Sorry, I was just suggesting that some people require many of their Brooks saddles to be slightly pointed upward, even the racier models.
Here's a couple of mine. Of course my short inseams require zero setback posts.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...8762832534.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...bb99057085.jpg

clubman 04-26-20 05:41 PM

Fify is an opportunity to prove one is clever. If it doesn't work, it's my problem. :o

ascherer 04-26-20 05:46 PM


Originally Posted by clubman (Post 21440563)
Sorry, I was just suggesting that some people require many of their Brooks saddles to be slightly pointed upward, even the racier models.

Yes indeed. I have C17s on two other bikes and some folks ask "doesn't it hurt to have your saddle pointing up?" I find that folks who are familiar with setting up leather saddles often don't realize how much more the sprung ones go. 'tis a sensitive subject! If you set one up with the classic slight upward tilt, just a few degrees, it feels like you're sliding off the front once you get on and ride.

PeterLYoung 04-27-20 09:20 AM


Originally Posted by Fat Tire Trader (Post 21417613)

This bike has Sunbeam Centrepull Brakes, BSA took over Sunbeam in 1943, one can only assume the made use of Sunbeam components on their own models. My 1949 Sunbeam WA3 Wayfarer has these brakes. A word of warning regarding the brake cables, they have special nipples at brake end and are virtually irreplaceable, take extreme care with them.

bluesteak 04-27-20 11:24 AM

Williams Crankset
 

Originally Posted by Ged117 (Post 21436144)
So I'm going to eventually build up my '54 Armstrong 531 road frame with a Williams chainset/crankset to drive my FW hub, which is built into a 700c wheel. Does anyone know what spindle length the English Club style bikes use? Then I can find the correct cup-and-cone bottom bracket and spindle for the Williams crank and chainline with my hub gear. This will be a long-term project to collect some period parts for a late winter build.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...86e62791ff.jpg
1954ish Armstrong Consort straight-gauge 531 frame and fork

I just got a Williams crankset for my 1957 Hopper Invincible. This is my attempt to document the installation.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...4f1302403.jpeg
Slightly less than 1Ē drive side. This bottom bracket came with the frame.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ec291aefb.jpeg
About 13/16 left side.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e9087c628.jpeg
.86Ē thick
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...96e1b6c2d.jpeg
BB protrudes roughly 3/32. Almost to much frame clearance. This is only a 40 tooth ring.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...2f536de4a.jpeg


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