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I picked up this brown beauty for $35 at a flea market over the weekend. The stamp on the Sturmey Archer says it's a '69. It mainly caught my eye for the saddle, bag, and pump which I was planning on using for restoring my Rudge. There's some rust on the fenders but I think it will clean up nicely. I enjoy the way 23"s ride.

Congrats on the nice pick up @Brynley !

That will clean up great. Or did you say you were stripping it for a Rudge? Large frames are hard to come across.

I lived at Queen and Jameson in the 80's and lost 4 bikes in 2 years.....
Parkdale is better now, but there's still trouble.

A good social experiment.

The seat bag is worth the $35.00!

Can these crimp on cable ends be purchased?
 

I was wondering if these crimp-on ends for a Sturmey Archer shift cable can be purchased somewhere. Or, alternatively, if anyone can recommend a suitable replacement for this small part.http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=527223http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=527224

Being as this is the vintage forum, I am for breaking them on a wheel and letting crows peck their eyeballs out. Until bicycle theft is taken serious with serious penalties it will go on. I guess I had a couple of bikes stolen that would be C&V had they not been stolen back when they were new. Oh well.

One way is to buy some 3/32" brass tubing (easy to find on places like amazon) and use JB Weld to attach it to the cable. I use a sharp 3 cornered fine file to saw the tubing to length. I used to silver braze these, but I have found much easier to use JB Weld to be totally reliable.
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=527226

I can't believe it happened with you so close by ! Salt in the wound @gster

really sorry to read this.

The brass tubing can usually be found at hobby type stores and even hardware stores.

Maybe Igor Kenk got a few of your bikes. When I get back to Toronto, let's have a barley sandwich and I'll tell you about the swat team bursting through my front door, running past me and kicking their way out the back door. Ah, Parkdale, good times...

[QUOTE=clubman;18843224]Maybe Igor Kenk got a few of your bikes. When I get back to Toronto, let's have a barley sandwich and I'll tell you about the swat team bursting through my front door, running past me and kicking their way out the back door. Ah, Parkdale, good times...[/QUO
The cops used my apartment for a stake out a couple of times...
my apt.
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Good tip; thanks. IYO would copper 3/32 with the same inside diameter [0.06575 inches] do just as well? The brass 3/32 seems to have an inner diameter of 0.066 inches. Right now on Amazon Prime I can get a 36" length of the copper tubing here for a mere $3.45 delivered.

https://www.amazon.com/Copper-Seamle...2+brass+tubing

I suppose it would work just as well. Copper might be a bit softer. A 3 pack of brass tubes would be around 3 bucks. It does stink to pay 5 dollars to ship 3 dollars worth of stuff. But...you'll be set for life for shifter cables and you'll never be reduced to using pinch bolt adapters!

[QUOTE=3speedslow;18843193]I can't believe it happened with you so close by ! Salt in the wound @gster

really sorry to read this.[/QUOTE
Thank you, I've moved on.
gster

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=527383

I use a crimper to crimp the brass, then solder it. I may take up JB Weld, though.

I've been adding a single crimp to the brass before the JB Weld sets for good measure, but not too much. I want the barrel adjuster to spin freely on the cable without binding.

Good point. My copper tubing gets here tomorrow. I once fixed an exhaust manifold on a Honda Del Sol belonging to my daughter with one of the JB Weld products - sort of a high temp liquid metal - and the stuff held... Pretty amazing IMO.

I really like the long days this time of year. I had a chance to complete the 1948 Dawn Tourist project.

https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HiyVFUiuE...615_194359.jpg

https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KG7-Zet7X...615_194407.jpg

Someone here in Toronto thinks this butchered Superbe "Fixie" is worth $300.00, brooks saddle not included. You would think at that price that some handle bar grips would be included.
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get wondering man?:thumb:http://laissezachats.net/206/o.png

That's a damn shame. I'd give 'em 30$ bucks for the frame.

Some small-diameter brass tubing and a crimping tool works:

http://www.os2.dhs.org/~john/cable-crimp.jpg

Otherwise, the modern SA shift cables work without the crimped piece:

http://www.os2.dhs.org/~john/sa-shift-cable.jpg

Nice crimping tool; looks like a "legacy" tool from a Ma Bell's tool bag. My copper tubing arrives today; I'm gonna try that instead of brass. One thing I need to do so that the crimped end rotates smoothly inside the screw-on housing is to be sure that the actual crimps aren't "flattened" so much that they affect said rotation... And, do it so that the crimp job holds for another 40+ years.

The OEM SA crimped-on tube appears to have been crimped with a heavy duty crimping tool which put four crimps in at a time; wish I could get a close-up of it; it looks like an absolutely bulletproof job. I'm gonna have to use something more mundane.

FWIW, I don't like the modern setup with the pinch bolt as much because it adds a little bit of clutter to the bike's appearance.

Do You Walk/Push Your English 3-Speed Up Steep Hills?
 

As many of you know, I ride a recently-restored Raleigh DL1 rod-braked roadster. This bike weighs between 50 and 60 lbs, depending on what I'm carrying on any given day. I have added a 24t sprocket to my Sturmey-Archer AW hub in order to successfully climb most hills, but the grade on some hills is just too much. I have had to walk/push this bike up some very steep hills, and I feel rather foolish when doing so. But I also know that this was common practice, back in the day. I remember walking bikes up hills with no shame whatsoever back in the 1960s and `70s. But it seems now that things have changed.

Has anyone else experienced this?