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Originally Posted by big john
(Post 21613427)
In the big ring the outer part of the derailleur is too close to the chain? If the cable isn't tight enough it won't matter how much you loosen the screw. The screw is to limit the movement of the derailleur, the shifter is supposed to put it in the right place. If the shifter cable is frayed the first thing you usually notice is the cable seems loose.
The cage has always close to the chain, but today when I lubed the chain and then spun it in reverse it there was a noise like it was actually rubbing. Not sure why it may have moved. |
Originally Posted by datlas
(Post 21613394)
It’s not difficult if there is a segment on a road you ride frequently.
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LPLO for LOP
So here's Groucho Marx offering a grape to Alice Cooper. Alice says "No thanks. Budwieser only." https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...528ebdb6e2.jpg |
Originally Posted by Velo Vol
(Post 21613457)
There's not slack in the cable.
The cage has always close to the chain, but today when I lubed the chain and then spun it in reverse it there was a noise like it was actually rubbing. Not sure why it may have moved. Is it a clamp on derailleur? Sometimes after rough shifting the clamp will move a bit changing adjustments. Could happen with a braze on but less likely. If it doesn't rub in the big ring/small cog while riding why worry about it? |
I spent 7 hours on Saturday, refitting my Battaglin MAX bike. New cables, new rear derailleur, new cassette, new tires, new handlebar, new bar tape. It took so long because I was trying to make a short cage Centaur derailleur work rather than swap in the medium cage Veloce I'd bought for the job. So after a lot of time spent fruitlessly, I swapped in the Veloce and voila! It works. Now I'm running 53/39 and 12-30.
The frame is so old, it doesn't take a regular cable guide under the BB. No, it's got a plate with two holes in it. And for years, I've been tolerating the sub-optimal shifting from all the added friction it causes. I threaded some shift cable liner through the holes, and fed the cables through that, heavily greased. New bar, because the Cinelli Nerve I had on it is 1) real old, and 2) a LO--O-ONG way down to the drops, compared with what The Cool Kids are using these days. I used a SOMA Highway One, which is the right shape, and unlike nearly every other bar, it comes in 26.0 and silver. Finished it all off with white Fizik tape. Even got some white gloves just for this bike, so I don't foul the tape as quickly. I thought about getting 28s, but the 25s I've been running barley fit though the calipers as it is. And the chainstays are pretty close to the tires. SO instead I just replaced the old Ultra Sports with new GP's, pumped to 100/105. Today was the 'shakedown cruise'. The new bar fits well, in fact it might need to drop a cm or so - at the same stem height, I feel more upright. Or maybe turn the bar down a hair. Shifting was MUCH better! AND the 30 works well! And I think that the tires made a big difference, even though they're the same size at the same pressure. Felt much less rattly. I'm in love all over again! https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...7d19bc7778.jpg |
Originally Posted by LesterOfPuppets
(Post 21613439)
Holy Moley! Train caught fire on the trestle over Tempe Town Lake. Looks like they must be wooden ties on that trestle the way it's burning.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DPk1fh7-ASY Think this is the bridge: https://www.google.com/maps/place/Te...4d-111.9276565 The relatively new, double track bridge to the right is the light rail line. |
Originally Posted by genejockey
(Post 21613488)
I spent 7 hours on Saturday, refitting my Battaglin MAX bike. New cables, new rear derailleur, new cassette, new tires, new handlebar, new bar tape. It took so long because I was trying to make a short cage Centaur derailleur work rather than swap in the medium cage Veloce I'd bought for the job. So after a lot of time spent fruitlessly, I swapped in the Veloce and voila! It works. Now I'm running 53/39 and 12-30.
The frame is so old, it doesn't take a regular cable guide under the BB. No, it's got a plate with two holes in it. And for years, I've been tolerating the sub-optimal shifting from all the added friction it causes. I threaded some shift cable liner through the holes, and fed the cables through that, heavily greased. New bar, because the Cinelli Nerve I had on it is 1) real old, and 2) a LO--O-ONG way down to the drops, compared with what The Cool Kids are using these days. I used a SOMA Highway One, which is the right shape, and unlike nearly every other bar, it comes in 26.0 and silver. Finished it all off with white Fizik tape. Even got some white gloves just for this bike, so I don't foul the tape as quickly. I thought about getting 28s, but the 25s I've been running barley fit though the calipers as it is. And the chainstays are pretty close to the tires. SO instead I just replaced the old Ultra Sports with new GP's, pumped to 100/105. Today was the 'shakedown cruise'. The new bar fits well, in fact it might need to drop a cm or so - at the same stem height, I feel more upright. Or maybe turn the bar down a hair. Shifting was MUCH better! AND the 30 works well! And I think that the tires made a big difference, even though they're the same size at the same pressure. Felt much less rattly. I'm in love all over again! https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...7d19bc7778.jpg |
Originally Posted by genejockey
(Post 21613488)
I spent 7 hours on Saturday, refitting my Battaglin MAX bike. New cables, new rear derailleur, new cassette, new tires, new handlebar, new bar tape. It took so long because I was trying to make a short cage Centaur derailleur work rather than swap in the medium cage Veloce I'd bought for the job. So after a lot of time spent fruitlessly, I swapped in the Veloce and voila! It works. Now I'm running 53/39 and 12-30.
The frame is so old, it doesn't take a regular cable guide under the BB. No, it's got a plate with two holes in it. And for years, I've been tolerating the sub-optimal shifting from all the added friction it causes. I threaded some shift cable liner through the holes, and fed the cables through that, heavily greased. New bar, because the Cinelli Nerve I had on it is 1) real old, and 2) a LO--O-ONG way down to the drops, compared with what The Cool Kids are using these days. I used a SOMA Highway One, which is the right shape, and unlike nearly every other bar, it comes in 26.0 and silver. Finished it all off with white Fizik tape. Even got some white gloves just for this bike, so I don't foul the tape as quickly. I thought about getting 28s, but the 25s I've been running barley fit though the calipers as it is. And the chainstays are pretty close to the tires. SO instead I just replaced the old Ultra Sports with new GP's, pumped to 100/105. Today was the 'shakedown cruise'. The new bar fits well, in fact it might need to drop a cm or so - at the same stem height, I feel more upright. Or maybe turn the bar down a hair. Shifting was MUCH better! AND the 30 works well! And I think that the tires made a big difference, even though they're the same size at the same pressure. Felt much less rattly. I'm in love all over again! Seems like the Highway One is the go-to bar for old steel with brifters, it's on my short list since I need a 26.0 bar as well. How easy is it getting it through the quill stem? |
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Originally Posted by abshipp
(Post 21613503)
:thumb:
Seems like the Highway One is the go-to bar for old steel with brifters, it's on my short list since I need a 26.0 bar as well. How easy is it getting it through the quill stem? |
Originally Posted by Trsnrtr
(Post 21613343)
Seriously. I rode 30 miles this AM and n ow going out to mow the lawn... it's all one contiguous lawn, not two lawns. May ride again with my wife later but only if she begs.
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Originally Posted by LesterOfPuppets
(Post 21613439)
Holy Moley! Train caught fire on the trestle over Tempe Town Lake. Looks like they must be wooden ties on that trestle the way it's burning.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DPk1fh7-ASY I once sailed under a truck fire on the Bay Bridge (186' vertical clearance) with a sparse but steady fall of smoking debris. By the time we realized stuff was falling we were committed to our line. :eek: |
Originally Posted by LAJ
(Post 21613496)
That's a nice bicycle cycle. Yep, the bars look off, but still, nicely done.
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Originally Posted by Velo Vol
(Post 21613363)
I want to be a local legend.
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Originally Posted by genejockey
(Post 21613517)
It went great, till I got to the bend. For a while, I was afraid I was just plain stuck. I think these are more square, that is the tops are longer and straighter before the bend, so it's more acute. If I had my druthers, I'd have used the 3T Motus, if the clamp part hadn't cracked.
Is the stem clamp pretty much rectangular? The one I'll be using is an old Grand Compe that's quite triangular in front profile so there's a decent amount of relief that helps move things around, but it's rarely easy with any stem. |
Originally Posted by indyfabz
(Post 21613408)
You are one here.
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Originally Posted by abshipp
(Post 21613537)
Noted, thanks :thumb:
Is the stem clamp pretty much rectangular? The one I'll be using is an old Grand Compe that's quite triangular in front profile so there's a decent amount of relief that helps move things around, but it's rarely easy with any stem. Factory 5 put these on sale for $60 once and I grabbed one for the Lemond. Then I found some knockoffs on eBay for $50-ish (I have one on the Basso). Only available in 90mm unfortunately. https://wearefactoryfive.com/products/titan-stem |
Originally Posted by genejockey
(Post 21613488)
I spent 7 hours on Saturday, refitting my Battaglin MAX bike. New cables, new rear derailleur, new cassette, new tires, new handlebar, new bar tape. It took so long because I was trying to make a short cage Centaur derailleur work rather than swap in the medium cage Veloce I'd bought for the job. So after a lot of time spent fruitlessly, I swapped in the Veloce and voila! It works. Now I'm running 53/39 and 12-30.
The frame is so old, it doesn't take a regular cable guide under the BB. No, it's got a plate with two holes in it. And for years, I've been tolerating the sub-optimal shifting from all the added friction it causes. I threaded some shift cable liner through the holes, and fed the cables through that, heavily greased. New bar, because the Cinelli Nerve I had on it is 1) real old, and 2) a LO--O-ONG way down to the drops, compared with what The Cool Kids are using these days. I used a SOMA Highway One, which is the right shape, and unlike nearly every other bar, it comes in 26.0 and silver. Finished it all off with white Fizik tape. Even got some white gloves just for this bike, so I don't foul the tape as quickly. I thought about getting 28s, but the 25s I've been running barley fit though the calipers as it is. And the chainstays are pretty close to the tires. SO instead I just replaced the old Ultra Sports with new GP's, pumped to 100/105. Today was the 'shakedown cruise'. The new bar fits well, in fact it might need to drop a cm or so - at the same stem height, I feel more upright. Or maybe turn the bar down a hair. Shifting was MUCH better! AND the 30 works well! And I think that the tires made a big difference, even though they're the same size at the same pressure. Felt much less rattly. I'm in love all over again! https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...7d19bc7778.jpg https://whatbars.com |
Originally Posted by LesterOfPuppets
(Post 21613562)
Removable faceplate stems only for me from here on out. (well no, I still have a couple of Cinelli stems).
Factory 5 put these on sale for $60 once and I grabbed one for the Lemond. Then I found some knockoffs on eBay for $50-ish (I have one on the Basso). Only available in 90mm unfortunately. https://wearefactoryfive.com/products/titan-stem
Originally Posted by LesterOfPuppets
(Post 21613574)
The bars probably have shorter reach than the olde ones, which will definitely put you more upright. I'm surprised that the Highway One isn't in the What Bars? database. Unfortunately the Cinelli isn't in there either, but that's not as much of a surprise.
https://whatbars.com |
Originally Posted by abshipp
(Post 21613537)
Noted, thanks :thumb:
Is the stem clamp pretty much rectangular? The one I'll be using is an old Grand Compe that's quite triangular in front profile so there's a decent amount of relief that helps move things around, but it's rarely easy with any stem. |
Any you old crumbs ever put stick-on + lenses on your cycling glasses? Wondering if they survive sweat and daily cleaning.
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Originally Posted by genejockey
(Post 21613624)
unfortunately when I tried to line that up with the inside of the bend, the quill end of the stem ran into the bottom of the drops.
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Originally Posted by LesterOfPuppets
(Post 21613574)
The bars probably have shorter reach than the olde ones, which will definitely put you more upright. I'm surprised that the Highway One isn't in the What Bars? database. Unfortunately the Cinelli isn't in there either, but that's not as much of a surprise.
https://whatbars.com OH, and I routed the shift cables across the top of the brifters and then along the front, instead of around back as I'd done with the dual-grooved Nerves, and even though it was a real pain to get the cables run properly - and wrapped with electrical tape from the brifters nearly to the end of the tape area, it was worth it The tops are much more comfy now. Cables in back is dumb. EDIT: When I say, "As I look at them from a distance", I mean it. This is the first chance I had to look at them from more than about 8 feet since I put it all together! |
All this bar talk got me motivated to finally put these flared drops on the Lemond. Bar tape tonight, and possibly a short test ride. Still gonna be 105° at 10pm, so no serious test ride 'til tomorrow morning.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0faffaf656.jpg |
Originally Posted by abshipp
(Post 21613630)
God I hate that so much :bang:
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