|
Thanks all! Right now I am ready to drill the counter hole for the punch. Might get a bigger one from my friend to use. Already have the 2/4 with the hole drilled into it. Still loading it up with tri flow and Phil’s.
i’m more upset about the rims not working with the spokes. More downtime for my poor Twenty. |
Originally Posted by mirfi
(Post 20986015)
Free Raleigh Three Speed, DC area
https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/...910311657.html FREE Curb Alert Bike is FREE! if not gone by Thursday AM, the rubbish men will take it off. 1960s black Raleigh bike with mechanical lever/rod brakes I put the bike on the curb. Three speed rear hub. Parked in shed for the last 40 years. Hole drilled in frame near the "R" in Raleigh, see pic. No seat, no fenders, no chain guard FREE at the curb waiting pickup. |
Originally Posted by mirfi
(Post 20986015)
Free Raleigh Three Speed, DC area
https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/...910311657.html FREE Curb Alert Bike is FREE! if not gone by Thursday AM, the rubbish men will take it off. 1960s black Raleigh bike with mechanical lever/rod brakes I put the bike on the curb. Three speed rear hub. Parked in shed for the last 40 years. Hole drilled in frame near the "R" in Raleigh, see pic. No seat, no fenders, no chain guard FREE at the curb waiting pickup. |
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0da3fd931.jpeg
Little oil, drill, punch and repeat. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a11290055.jpeg All nice and clean! https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b3ac749a2.jpeg Still ready to do the job after 40 years! Success! Fighting all the way but the cotter finally came out. All BB parts shiny and free of wear. I found chunks of old grease and a petrified wasp but no sock. The Teflon spray was helping it but new grease is what it needs. The drill bit stayed mostly in the pin but towards the bottom drifted out into the crank. I can see a little divot out of the wall. Both openings are still round. I will be getting new pins, most likely from Mark. |
Originally Posted by dweenk
(Post 20986352)
I am on the Eastern Shore. By the time I got there it would be in the hands of an enthusiast or a scrapper and I know a guy who has a pair of NOS fenders. Bummer.
|
Originally Posted by BigChief
(Post 20985990)
Those circlips that hold the cog on the driver are easy to remove. It's getting them back on that's hard for me. I don't even have a good technique to pass along. It's one of those things I just fight with until I win.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a97fa3882.jpeg |
Question for the learned: when I pulled the shifter rod, it was covered in black gunk. Poked a plastic stir stick down there and pulled out some really think muck. The hub has been shifting fine and ticking along but... would it be good to fill the hub with some kerosene or other such fluids and drain the swamp in there before the wheel goes back into action?
Fresh oil used afterwards of course! |
Originally Posted by Ballenxj
(Post 20986250)
I hope somebody here picks this up! Looks like a 23" frame as well. :thumb:
Originally Posted by 3speedslow
(Post 20986665)
Question for the learned: when I pulled the shifter rod, it was covered in black gunk. Poked a plastic stir stick down there and pulled out some really think muck. The hub has been shifting fine and ticking along but... would it be good to fill the hub with some kerosene or other such fluids and drain the swamp in there before the wheel goes back into action?
Fresh oil used afterwards of course! You can just clamp the outer flange of the drive side of the hub in a bench vice and spin the cartridge out, I've only done 3, but that technique worked for all of them. |
Originally Posted by 3speedslow
(Post 20986416)
All BB parts shiny and free of wear. I found chunks of old grease and a petrified wasp but no sock. |
Originally Posted by jackbombay
(Post 20986701)
Whats the deal with the 23" frames? Just fewer of them around?
|
Originally Posted by 3speedslow
(Post 20986665)
Question for the learned: when I pulled the shifter rod, it was covered in black gunk. Poked a plastic stir stick down there and pulled out some really think muck. The hub has been shifting fine and ticking along but... would it be good to fill the hub with some kerosene or other such fluids and drain the swamp in there before the wheel goes back into action?
Fresh oil used afterwards of course! |
Originally Posted by BigChief
(Post 20986766)
It's not a difficult or frustrating job like stuck cotters.
|
@BigChief
Thanks for the info! I have time to clean it out. I have to save up for the spoke party now! Oh well, at least I will have SS with washers. The rim on it now will not be the one I am using so it can be as messy as it wants to. I’m not that cool for a sock stunt. |
More Bling added to my Hercules
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...fa8e370ac1.png
Today, I changed my Miller headlight for a 1910 McKeelite that I modified with 24 LEDs. Additionally, I added the Hercules Royal Prince stickers that I purchased from RedBubble.com. The big items I added are the Tourbon tan pannier bags and tan triangle bag. I applied the rubbing compound to the bike. It did improve the looks. However, I was not able to restore the paint to its' original lusture. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e10807386c.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...f995e96ee4.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...61ec8621d4.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1d0b7801f5.jpg |
More Bling added to my Hercules
I forgot to mention that I ordered the Schwalbe creme colored tires. Additionally, I plan to change the handlebars for simular ones that have a 2"to 3" further reach out toward me.
|
Originally Posted by usarnie1
(Post 20986868)
I forgot to mention that I ordered the Schwalbe creme colored tires. Additionally, I plan to change the handlebars for simular ones that have a 2"to 3" further reach out toward me.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a14da82865.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...5bf7f60203.jpg |
Originally Posted by usarnie1
(Post 20982766)
Hello fellow 3 speeders. Last week I found and purchased a 1953 Hercules Royal Prince, that was only 12 miles away from my home. This is my number 3 of 1953 Hercules that I own. Basically, the bike had good bones, so I went all out on its' rejuvenation. Shown below are the before and after photos of the bike.
Many of the front fork bearings were missing, the front tire and tube had a blow out, the front axel bearing races were pitted, the saddle was made in Taiwon, the hand grips were USA made, The chain had 2 links that were frozen, the rear clamp for the chain guard was missing, one of the pedals dust caps was missing, the kick stand was missing and the complete front brake was missing. Since these early 1950s Hercules are so rare, I had to have it! I put on new Schwalbe tires/tubes, used original Hercules tan saddle, new matching tan hand grips, used Brooks tan leather tool bag, complete early Hercules front brakes, nice used front axel and bearing races, period correct Midland repainted carrying rack, Miller generator light kit with a stem mounted bracket, NOS Hercules pedals, Raleigh logo kick stand, new indicator chain and its' anchor and all new cables. Coming soon will be reproduction Hercules chainguard sticker, tan pannier bags and matching triangle bag to mount in-between the V portion of the frame. After2 |
Originally Posted by Ballenxj
(Post 20986250)
I hope somebody here picks this up! Looks like a 23" frame as well. :thumb:
|
Originally Posted by reno rs
(Post 20987102)
Awesome. I'd love to add a 50s 3 speed to the stable.
|
Originally Posted by 3speedslow
(Post 20986416)
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0da3fd931.jpeg
Little oil, drill, punch and repeat. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a11290055.jpeg All nice and clean! https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b3ac749a2.jpeg Still ready to do the job after 40 years! Success! Fighting all the way but the cotter finally came out. All BB parts shiny and free of wear. I found chunks of old grease and a petrified wasp but no sock. The Teflon spray was helping it but new grease is what it needs. The drill bit stayed mostly in the pin but towards the bottom drifted out into the crank. I can see a little divot out of the wall. Both openings are still round. I will be getting new pins, most likely from Mark. I was hoping another one would show up so I'd have a matching pair. |
Originally Posted by gster
(Post 20987364)
I'm sorry that you didn't find a sock.
I was hoping another one would show up so I'd have a matching pair. |
Originally Posted by BigChief
(Post 20987406)
Now we know the Raleigh part number for a Twenty BB spindle is 21GC. Really odd that cotter snapped off the way it did. They are supposed to be a softer alloy. I see there's not much dome on the top. I wonder if this was the original 'R" cap cotter or an aftermarket. But even then, there was a lot of poorly thought out cost cutting going on at Raleigh in the 70s. Maybe the cotters from new weren't good quality.
The cotters on the '30 Hercules came out as if they'd been installed the week before . |
Stuck pin removal of the last rrsort
Originally Posted by gster
(Post 20987364)
I'm sorry that you didn't find a sock.
I was hoping another one would show up so I'd have a matching pair. |
Originally Posted by gster
(Post 20987420)
They are a bit of a mystery.
The cotters on the '30 Hercules came out as if they'd been installed the week before . |
My feeble take: torquing on the crankside makes those a little more harder to drive out. Mine are of the nonR-nut variety. They were also driven in quite deep. The NDS cotter slide right out so I think it had something to do with the placement or torque on the pin. BTW, the tool used was the old Park cotter one and both sides had 2 days of soaking before the operation.
I so wanted to find a sock! The part number on the crank spindle facing up was just PURE luck! |
Originally Posted by usarnie1
(Post 20986856)
Today, I changed my Miller headlight for a 1910 McKeelite that I modified with 24 LEDs. Additionally, I added the Hercules Royal Prince stickers that I purchased from RedBubble.com. The big items I added are the Tourbon tan pannier bags and tan triangle bag.
I applied the rubbing compound to the bike. It did improve the looks. However, I was not able to restore the paint to its' original lusture. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e10807386c.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...f995e96ee4.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...61ec8621d4.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1d0b7801f5.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...92f020bb98.png Reproduction sticker purchased from RedBuble.com |
Originally Posted by BigChief
(Post 20987563)
I've given some thought to this issue, but I still have more questions than answers. Even in this case, you can see from the picture that unlike aluminum stems and seat posts in steel frames, corrosion wasn't the cause. Even in the LBS where I worked, mechanics in the day would just hammer cotters in. For a long time, I guessed stuck cotters were just the result of being hammered in too hard. But now I wondering if perhaps the alloy they are made from is involved somehow. I've removed many cotters over the years. Probably not enough to be of any real statistical value, but enough to get an impression. I too have noticed that cotters from bikes from the 50s seem to pop out without much fuss and the only time I've had to resort to plan B was on later models. I have also noticed that the alloy of the old cotters...and Bike Smith cotters as well... looks different than more modern cotters. There's no finish on them. They're not very hard and are highly rust resistant. Just a thought.
|
Originally Posted by 3speedslow
(Post 20985092)
My Raleigh Twenty and I are not having a good day.
|
@RobbieAG
Here is what I found out after opening up the BB. The opening from the seat tube is tiny! If you are going to put oil down there to help keep it lubed, err on the side of plenty. I used a spray can of Teflon and 3 in 1 oil in healthy doses. Because there are no seals between the spindle and cups you might be able to sneak enough to the ball bearings through that route. i am happy to have gotten the cotter out regardless. My LBS has been around over 40 yrs. they still have SA parts in their drawers and bins. I will see if the pins I come up with look decent or go talk to BikeSmith. |
Some where on this forum there are instructions for making a cotter press from a Harbor Freight chain breaker. I made one a few years ago and have been successful with all of the extractions except one where the crank profile was so slim that there was not enough space to align with the pin.
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