Thanks for the tip - I'm sure it will be worth acquiring the right tool for the job.

Its unlikely that if you hit a cotter pin with a hammer that dmage won't be obvious! As with all tools you have to be careful with a press getting the pin out, but your chances of doing so without damage are much higher (and less chance of damaging bearings in the BB). A bit of Kroil on pesky rusted cranks usually does the trick with the press, along with careful application of torque.

I’m embarrassed to admit that I never know such a tool existed. Thank you for the heads-up. Of course, it is rather pricey. Is there an alternative to this that doesn’t involve beating the heck out of the cotter pin, deforming it in the process, then replacing it?

That is more or less the traditional method. Sheldon Brown describes an anvil made from a length of pipe, which is what I use on the relatively rare occasions when I need to remove crank cotter pins. The hammer works much better with an anvil under the crank, but you still destroy the pin sometimes. And sometimes the reason you are removing the pin is because it has become deformed creating a hitch in the crank. The pin is much more malleable than the other parts by design.

Check my eBay link a little further up. ;)

And like @albrt already said, a vice with a socket wrench underneath the head of the pin is the other method.

Yes.

Unless you are comfortable finding a new cotter pin of the same shape, angle and hardness, DO NOT use a hammer no matter what. People on this thread have cobbled together a press using C-clamps and a bit of ingenuity to good effect- you'll have to search this thread. FWIW the only way the cotter pin ever gets deformed is because of improper removal. If deformed it would be very tricky to re-install!

Excellent counsel, Salubrious!

I've been offering up a G-clamp I have with a socket and I think I should be able to make a Heath Robinson attempt at pressing out the cotter pins on the Superbe's cranks. I'll let you know how I get on!

I would add that if you remove the cotters with no damage, label them "R" and "L". It is one little bit of insurance that your crank arms 180 degrees opposed when reinstalled.

How sensible! I’ll prepare my Sharpie.

Not to mention, modern cotters tend to be very poor quality compared to what used to be available. Rather than machined from rod stock, modern cotters are simply pressed into shape and tend to be undersized as a result. And the steel quality is much softer to accommodate the press operation.

https://bikesmithdesign.com/CotterPress/cotters.html

I was on the Superbe today and the ride has definitely improved with the headset lubed and the saddle height raised a little. Swooping through a sequence of corners it held its line very nicely and it’s pulling up faster when I squeeze on the rod brakes. I can detect some modulation through the front brake though, which means the braking surface is probably ‘out of round’ over a small section - I can detect a very slight variation in the rim.
Is this common and does anyone have a suggestion of the best way to sort it out? I’m hoping it might be adjusted by a truing-type exercise.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...289eda289.jpeg
I can now post images, so here’s the bottom race of the ‘82 Raleigh Superbe’s headset with the full complement of 25 ball bearings, as recommended by Sheldon Brown. I used Park Tool grease which stuck the bearings in place nicely while I slid the fork back into the frame.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...09e6a7213.jpeg
Here’s the ‘82 Superbe before I cleaned it up. Very original, nothing has been replaced from new as far as I can tell, including the tyres. It even has the remnants of its ‘inspected’ paper sticker on the stem. I’m already quite fond of the tartan rear carrier...

WOW! This image looks like an advertisement from the 70's.... amazing condition, great find :)

FYI, @Monzeglio, that particular Superbe may differ in some specifications from the typical Raleigh Sports or Superbe as is often mentioned here on the forum.

I don't know much about these - other than they're UK-market only - but they have a different (and slightly nicer) frame than the typical Sports, if a bit lacking in the traditional details one expects. The dropouts are different (I've never seen one close enough to figure out if they're the same stamped steel dropout in the fashion of the older Super Course), the lugs are generic cast (?) pieces, and the stays have spoon caps. The fenders are different than the norm as well, and the crankarms also appear different.

I've always assumed these came from Japan, but that's obviously a classic Nottingham headset. Would love to see more closeups of the details.

-Kurt

Scandinavian market, probably Danish. I toured Denmark for a month in '93 and saw many similar models.
Downtown.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1a53fa1d9a.jpg

I'm liking the light blue thing to the left. It's not lugged, but it has a good look.

-Kurt

You're a sucker for precious, shiny objects Kurt. ;)
Agree.

Mongrel Lenton
 

I am posting pictures of the crankset cleaned up. Does anyone have any idea about it. It seems like it was made by Williams. It has Williams chainring square head bolts. It is designed for 1/8th chain.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...3c67bf888.jpeg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...825c92961.jpeg

Anybody in need of a really big frame? :P

WOW! I'm thinking that Bike weighs close to double what a standard one might.

Williams would have a date code but perhaps they made them for Raleigh without. Nicklin also made cranks for Raleigh. Mid 50's Lenton cranks were fluted and usually didn't have the heron motif. Like this

Is the “P” on the inside of left crankarm a date code?

It's possible but Williams usually dated both crankarms and rings. P is a valid date code for 1930.

Tube information and recommendation
 

Once again, I come to members of this forum for help and advice. I’m in the final steps of a refurb of my ‘51 Raleigh Superbe Sports Touring, a bike which hasn’t seen the light of day in probably 30 years, and which I’ve had in pieces for pretty much that whole time. My plan was to put on new tubes and tires due to age of ones it came with. And I figured I could just use new tubes with Schraeder valves instead of the old tubes with a woods/Dunlop valves as I believed other people had done in similar refurb projects. No dice. The holes in the old rims are just a bit too small to accommodate the Schraeder valves on the domestic tubes I bought. So...is there a brand of domestic US tube with a Schraeder valve that is small enough to get through the hole in the rim of a ‘51 Raleigh? Or, do I just need to bite the bullet and get tubes with Woods valves? And if the latter, does anyone have a recommended domestic source of tubes with Woods valves, or do I need to get them from an overseas source (and pay a bunch extra for shipping)? My main reason for wanting the Schraeder valve tubes is that everything else I own (well, almost everything) has Schraeder, and a domestic source really for speed of getting them and saving on shipping.

Oh, and it is a 26 x 1 3/8” tube/tire.

I’m grateful for any advice you have!

Mongrel lenton
 

I couldn’t access your link but 1930 seems to old. The mounting holes in the chain ring are on 4” centers. I have seen similar herons on double chain ring cranks from around 1960. I will attach a couple more photos. Who made them and when may remain a mystery.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...61bdf195e.jpeg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e0e5a2429.jpeg

I've encountered some tight fitting valves but have always been able to pull it through.
Can you not just ream out the hole on the rim a bit?

If you wish to convert to Schrader valves, a 21/64th drill bit and a drill motor will get the job done. I have done the Presta to Schrader conversion more than a few times on other Bicycles with good results.
Just be sure to deburr the holes after. ;)

I'm feeling the lack of love for my three speed, LOL! After years I finally had to admit it's just too small for me. Found a replacement bike for it and posted it locally. Down to asking a give away price and still no love for it. I got a feeling it's going to wind up as a donation to the bike coop. :ride:

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...4f3d37fa37.jpg
Rough old girl but she get's the job done.