One of the problems is that they're not all transfers the DT lettering is painted, I can see the brush strokes in each letter that's worn away. I was also surprise to see that the headbadge is brass not aluminum.
Are they enamel or lacquer?

Is this the serial number?
(Looks like 105620 XA)


https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...efdc7b963f.jpg

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a69ef83984.png
An S/A equipped Schwinn 3 speed from the 60's for sale in Toronto.
A show bike more than a rider.
Seller is asking $400.00 (CDN)

Looks like a Corvette. Add center tank with horn and a red rear rack with taillight, and you've got a Mark IV Jaguar, which my parents got me for my 8th birthday in 1958. Which, 11 years later (minus a few of the gewgaws) was my first commuter bike at college. From the time I've spent on The CABE over the past year, that price is actually not bad (believe that translates out to about $300-325.00 American?). Those Schwinn's go for a lot more than we're used to with our British roadsters. Considering how they perform compared to a Sports, it absolutely floors me.

Not my style but I appreciate the design.
Seller calls it a Typhoon and says it was on display in a bike shop for the past 20 years or so.

I definitely could be mistaken, plus I remember what they called them back in the Fifties. By the Sixties I wasn't following these bikes at all. It's gotta be a semi-rare one, given that by that point in time the kids wanted Stingrays, not those big fancy paper boy bikes.

Yup - that's the Serial Number.

My Humber has a brass headbadge as well.

BTW: I think you mentioned the boss on the drive side chain stay and I don't know if you got an answer: that is the mounting point for models with a full chaincase. Pretty typical of that era.

Looks like the Schwinn Typhoon I had as a kid. Nearly identical. The one I owned back then was trash picked in the early 70's. In similar condition. I used it to deliver news papers for years. One telltale of an earlier model is the chainring, the 70's models came with a 'mag' style chainring vs. the four circles on this one.
The Typhoon was the bottom of the middleweight lineup but there really wasn't much difference between the various models besides racks, tanks, or decals.
I've got a late 50's Schwinn American frameset hanging in the garage right now, I picked it up at an auction about 20 years ago with the intention of finding the rest of it but I've never come across a good set of wheels.
I seem to remember the middle weight boy's models were Typhoon, American, Jaguar, Corvette, Panther, Spitfire, and Heavy Duti.

1960/61 Montgomery Ward Hawthorne, built by Hercules
 

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...af2585fbdb.jpg
Flipped bars 🤪

I know! It's a Department Store Bike! But, Montgomery Ward's Hawthorne brand was built by Hercules, which was a part of TI industries at the time the bike was assembled.
The original wheelset had a SA AW hub with 60 8 stamped in the shell (it's a smooth shell, not lined). In 1962, the MW Christmas catalog specified that the bikes were red, and no longer black. This bike was someone's 1960 or 1961 Christmas present. The original seat pin wasn't long enough to permit me to ride this bicycle (advertised for ages 9 and up!) so I have an alloy seat pin in there. Just about every component is stamped with "Made in England" or "Made in Great Britain" somewhere. The pedals were rebuilt, along with the headset and bottom bracket, and the hubs. Because this frame is using a single top tube, I have to conclude that this was MW's "thrift" or "budget" offering. The Deluxe version in 1960-1962 used dual top tubes that continued to the rear dropouts after the seat tube.
The bicycle was in poor condition when I found it, with rusted rims missing a great deal of chroming, dry rotted tires, a scaly DS seatstay, and decades of accumulated grime and rust.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...bff29aaf92.jpg
The sellers picture.
I cleaned it, disassembled it, and tried to rescue the original wheels in vain. Missing chrome on the brake surface and bad cones in the front hub sealed their fate. Thankfully, the bike co-op had a *matching* set of 1970's ISO 590 wheels for a song! I used Evapo-Rust on the saddle and just about every part but the frame and chainguard. Those were treated with naval jelly. I sanded the rust scale off of the DS chainstay and treated all bare steel with Ospho for rust prevention/abatement. I mushroomed the crank cotter pins trying to remove them with a homemade pin press, so I ordered replacements and filed them until they fit. I painted the saddle frame, light kit mounts, and the unchromed SA fulcrum with Rustoleum cold galvanizing paint to get as close as possible to the original coating they had. I kept the original ribbed housings since I like the look, and replacing them would cost several times more than I paid for the bike. Chrome and paint were polished and oiled or waxed! Rims were trued! New grips and tyres (;)) were mounted!
I'm not sold on the flipped bars, but they seem useful for fit even if the steering is a little twitchy.
Here are a few pictures of details. I have more in my album here, and I can post more if anyone is interested. I don't want to clog up this marvelous thread!
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...fad015c7fb.jpg
Hercules Decal on the seat tube. "Guaranteed Made in England"
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...74fd29c9d3.jpg
Genuine English Lightweight. At just under 36 ½ pounds as built.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...5618cee591.jpg
Miller light kit, an accessory for the bike. Tinned glass reflector and lens. Original dimpled Bulb! Anachronistic nylon zip tie for cable management.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...9b65e9cf83.jpg
Miller bottle dynamo, mount, and tail light. Vox Populi Phillips pattern sidepull brake.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...08b8f4c90c.jpg
This saddle did not sell with this bike in the catalog. The two- toned vinyl saddle was sold on the more expensive double top tube frame. I removed the rivets and cover to remove the rust and repaint the frame, rails, and guts. Rivets were replaced with new ones.

Very nice build.
I couldn't ride it, it would kill my neck...
You've got what we call a "Semi-Scorcher".(down turned bars)
A full Scorcher would require the removal of the fenders and chain guard..

I never thought to take off the fenders and chainguard! While I may not frequently ride in the rain, it rains here enough that fenders are smart for wet pavement and puddles. I even have them on my carbon wonder bike! I'll hold onto that idea though.

I've arranged to buy this bike here in mexico.
The seller's in the next town over and will deliver tomorrow.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...4b5ed56c80.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...2ad1c63fcc.jpg
It's either Indian or a Mexican built Benotta.
Seller says it's 40 years old and has been restored.

It kind of looks like a spray bomb rebuild.
The only chrome I see is the saddle springs, the rest looks like silver spray paint.
How much do they want for it?

Good eye.
I'll negotiate when I see it in person.
Not asking much , $150
Bikes for sale are scarce here.

May I ask where did you get the rivets?
I've got the same saddle here with some very rusty rivets, one of which is missing the back half completely.

It looks both sporty and elegant with the fenders - like a 1940's path racer. Keep them.

-Kurt

Not suggesting you do that as I think your bike is perfect as is...

:love:
I appreciate the love I'm getting for this build. Bringing that paint back to a polish (where that was possible) and knocking back the rust was a good bit of work, but the end result looks to be worth it.

I bought them on Amazon. They were sold in a box of 90 only, so if you can PM me an address and the number you need, I can just mail you some instead of letting the ones I have rust in my basement workshop. IIRC, I needed 10 for this saddle; 8 for the sides and 2 at the back. The heads are slightly smaller than the originals on my Wright's saddle, otherwise these work like an exact replacement.

I was going to reuse the rivets I removed to soak the saddle frame and rails in Evapo-Rust and I even soaked them to remove their rust, but I lost one rivet and ended up replacing them all.

Flip that seat clamp around and you're good to go...............on the road again!

Beware Rusty Chains
 

My experience from my 10 years as a bike mechanic (long ago and far away) is that rusty chains can and will break.
A new chain is cheap insurance.

And personal experience, when I was a kid, I "fixed" a rusty chain by loosening it up, link by link.
The very first time I rode it, the chain snapped and I tumbled and got road rash.
Lucky me, no cars ran me down.

Good luck with your project!

Done already!
It needs a bit of work but it gives me a project...
I'm hesitant to buy tools here but I think a C wrench and
a flathead screwdriver may get me by.
It (of course) looked better in the photos.
Cranks are mis aligned.
Interesting history though
It's a Condor.
'Benotto Giacinto moved his company to Mexico. At first he went to Guadalajara and founded the brand Condor, his first bicycle factory in Mexico. In 1958 he moved to Mexico City and created the brand Benotto.

So Italian design, made in Mexico.
I'll likely leave/sell it when I go but may take the saddle home.

The chain freed up pretty easily, it was rideable with just some light oil even before I did anything else. I was able to ride it about 5 miles 'as found' with just some air in the tire and some oil here and there.
I've since soaked the chain in Evapo-rust and removed all the rust inside and out, and again soaked it in some oil while I work on the rest of the bike. It'll likely be just fine, I've had a few others that were a lot worse do just fine.
If it breaks, I'll replace it I suppose but the chain is likely worn to the sprockets at this point. If I change the chain, it may not work well with the used sprockets on the bike. If I find a better wheelset for it, I might swap the chain then if it turns out to be a keeper. I'll likely just keep this till I find a larger frame bike, but for now I'll proceed with cleaning it up as if its going to stay just in case.

Mine uses what looks like a hollow rivet with a domed head. They're split on the inside in 6 fingers. One rivet is broken, only the outer cap still remains, the other 9 are still there but really rusty.
The rest of the saddle is decent but there's a gouge in the top of the white front area. I have a huge commercial sewing machine in the basement that I can use to make a new seat cover, it may take some learning to use but it came with the house. The former owner used it for leather upholstery.

I tried to pry back each 'finger' of the original rivets but they snap off the instant I try to bend them. The one rivet is rusted through on the dome a bit too.
A fresh set of rivets on this and a new seat cover may make the seat too good for this ride. Most of the bikes I've looked at have had this same saddle, this is the first one that's not been physically broken. It seems for some reason everyone is broken in half, front to rear, near where the white and black vinyl meet. I'm not sure what causes a steel seat pan to just break in half there but so far I've seen at least a dozen broken the same way, plus one Sprite with a plastic or fiber base that was broke the same way too.

I did stop at one tack shop here to ask about rivets but all they had were brass and black steel rivets, no chrome. The rivets they had were similar to the originals but with solid heads. They also had a tubular type rivet that used a rear ring vs. just split fingers. Kind of like a blind grommet.
I suspect that some of those saddles used 12 rivets, as they had a riveted on rear badge vs. just having the Wright name printed right on the back. I looked at a 23" Robin Hood the other day that had the badge, but that saddle was broken in the middle like so many other's I've seen.

I picked up this '74 DL-1 on a whim (and after reading this thread) while visiting my sister in Atlanta in 2017 (she grabbed it for me, I got it from her). Got it back to Memphis, did the usual disassembly and clean/touch up, then stalled on it as other acquisitions jumped the queue - I was on a hot streak for awhile. But I finally put it back together this month, more cursing than usual since it was my first time dealing with something like this. I've ridden it a few times now and I like it, but it is a beast. Need to find an appropriate rack at some point...

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...7caec3e334.jpg

That looks great! Mine is due for some fresh tires and I haven't pulled the trigger yet. Can't decide between those off-white Schwalbes or black.

Mine 1979 Canadian DL1 came with a plated steel tube rack. I could not save the chrome and give it a coat of black. It sort of suits the somber solid looks of the bike. I agree with them being a "beast". Good description.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...2cbf2ae5db.jpg

Nice bike, I like the full chaincase. That rack looks perfect, I've seen similar at hollandbikeshop.com and I may have to bite the bullet at some point and order one. I also like your bottle cage solution, I was debating how I'd go about adding one to mine.

BFisher , I had a hard time deciding between black and cream - I tossed a coin and so there it is. Came out okay I think.

A little surface rust. Well, maybe a lot...

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...41278307014269

https://scontent.fric1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...cb&oe=6023CEDD

Beauty.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...96310157774411

https://scontent.fric1-2.fna.fbcdn.n...08&oe=60249D11

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e9a12660e3.jpg
from FB ad


Can't give a ladies model away around here, we call them donor bikes.
The problem at $180 there's no money left for a flipper either, the saddle and wheels are the main value but only if they're perfect.

Also, why on earth do so many people list a bike like that and not bother to at least pump up the tires and wipe down the chrome?
The paint looks like someone just waxed it, scratches and all, but the handle bars and rims are dingy looking and the tires look like they're flat. If your going to ask $180 for a ladies bike, at least make it rideable when someone looks at it.

Regardless of the shiny paint and the flat tires, the bike has a 'well used' look about it for some reason. The saddle don't look right, I don't think I've ever run across an early 70's ladies sports with a Brooks leather saddle on it, the paint is scraped up pretty good all over, and the rear rim has some funny spots that show up in the front angle pic in the ad. It makes me think they positioned the rusty spots on the rim up high where they won't show in the pic. It could just be a reflection though but after looking at a bunch of bikes recently I've seen all sorts of tricks to hide defects in the ad pics. Its in better shape than most but I don't see $180 there.
Its too bad they want to much for it because I know where there's a minty clean brown men's frame that would convert that to a nice bike if the wheels are good.