You're a great preservationist. Your title besuits you!

Thanks for the kind words. The Sprite came to me in very good shape, which reduces the replacing parts and work that has to be done. It was nice to have a bike that could be totally gone over in just a few weekends instead of needing to be torn all the way down and built back up. I like to put big cogs on these S5 hubs because then you can have a very low gear for climbing, but still have enough top end for downhills.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e2c5e7d2fe.jpg

One of two Hercules 3-speeds I've got (along with a Raleigh Superbe and a Raleigh Sports). Now living in the very hilly Catskills has rendered them impractical..... so for now this one will do duty as an ornament on the porch.

Have to ask: What mounting trick are you using to get it to fit there?

-Kurt

Its tires are on the casing, and the handlebars and dropout are likely wired to the wall above it.

I figured as much, but was hoping for a picture of the magic (and perhaps a recommendation for what wire was used).

-Kurt

I'm more concerned that such a beautiful bike is being sTOrEd OuTSIdE.

To each, their own, I guess.

Tires on the door trim. A loop of black 'parachute' cord from a black screw-hook to the seat cluster, another loop from the head-tube to another black screw hook and finally a third loop that goes from one hook, around the head-tube, to the seat cluster, to the other hook... Hooks and cord all rated for much greater than the weight of the bike... Yeah, it's outside, but the porch/roof is enormous, so it's well protected from the elements.

I'm new to the club. Two different bike enthusiasts gifted me "Raleigh" 3-speeds, a Huffy and a Royal Scot.
The Huffy is pristine and is going to an ex that is still dear to me. The Royal Scot is at the top of my queue for restorations. It's a keeper.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1759d1f999.jpg

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0ae52be7c0.jpg

$54 in OH.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...18123262683778

https://scontent.fric1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...3w&oe=62FA7C7D

A '78-81, and I'd suspect at least a few of the cable guides no longer exist on the top tube, given the clamps and the rust on the front of the top tube.

Might be a good platform for a custom if the plan involves a trip to the paint shop.

-Kurt

Very nice.
I have a similar bike in Burgandy...
I added the throttle controls to mine
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...af758ba466.jpg

I would pass at $54. The rims, particularly the front look crusty and the everything else looks tired and beat. Could be used as a "beater bike" if you were into that kind of thing.

Gorgeous. That's the only color that can give the Superbe green an absolute run for its money.

-Kurt

I ended up putting those on mine after I broke one of the plastic ones.


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...8fa1f6a374.jpg

I since got some 3D printed but haven't put them back together.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...4e09aa3699.jpg

All it takes is one shopper who needs the safety flag, the Berec taillight and the Pletscher to make a sale. I could use those brake levers to replace the clunky steel ones on my bike. I'll trade you my Berec taillight for 'em.

Hi, here's what I hope is a new topic, but I apologize if it is old hat.

I'm rebuilding my 1952 Rudge Aero Special, a 27" Reynolds-framed drop bar bike made in Nottingham. Current stage is to install the H/S cups and the fork. I've been told the head tube IDs are to be 30.0 mm, and mine are (actually 29.97 mm, if I can believe my Harbor Freight digital caliper!). Also, Park Tool says the maximum allowed interference in such a press-fit installation is to be maximum 0.2 mm (not 0.20 mm for some reason).

My fixed cups have OD of 30.28 mm, so the interference is too great to use, if Park Tool is correct. Has anyone ever installed a HS with this much interference? The head tube is 531 with nicely brazed lugs and 70 years old. Should I go ahead and use these cups? They MIGHT be the ones which came out of the frame originally, actually I think they are, but I didn't mark them carefully when I pressed them out and put them in the parts cleaner.

Am I really at risk of cracking my head tube if I force these in, with a pretty decent HS press?

BTW, the bike frame size is about 54 or 55 cm c-c with 27" wheels. Overall geometry is long and laid back, a precursor to the Super Course and the International of 1971.

I would be interested in seeing how the 3d printed reproductions work out. I like the look of the smaller shifters better than the later throttle type, but the original plastic ones were known for suspect durability. I wonder if a newer plastic or alternative material would make them more viable.

I just bought a set of decals off Ebay. My sports is a 1976 Canadian version, with the white seat tube decal which I couldn't find anywhere, but the rest match up.

(Also, I'm trying to get to 10 posts so I can share pics of my 700c converted, threadless/stem headset, shimano BB super modernized 1976 sports.)

Welcome! Can't wait to see the pix.

Thanks! Can't wait to share. I've been lurking in this thread for years, so much knowledge and so many great pics to look at.

You'd likely get a better response in the bicycle mechanics forum.
A good bike shop will have a headset reaming and facing tool that will machine the head tube so that the top and bottom have the correct ID and the ends are parallel. It takes a few minutes if the headset is not installed.

The original S5 was introduced in 1966 and ran to about 1972 with the S5.1 and 5.2 later

​​​​​​Sturmey-Archer Heritage :: History

Yes, I'll try mechanics. I do have and have used a reamer/facer as you describe, but I don't think I have a set of cups which fit. The ones which I think were original are about 0.3 mm oversize. After reaming mine are 29.98 mm ID. But I don't have a lot of cutters.

There is a nice old made in Austria, 3 SPEED, J.C. HIGGINS bike that someone in the WILMINGTON, DELAWARE vicinity should get as it is for sale for only $29.99 on EBAY (location is actually in Garnet Valley, PA which is the most southeast in PA on the Delaware border, about 11 miles from Wilmington Delaware.
This ancient JC HIGGINS (I think probably made for Sears by PUCH) has that neat, really cool chainring which spells out JC HIGGINS, and of course a cottered three piece crank. At $29.99, this one is nice........appears to have an 1980's era seat, and is missing the front fender, but everything else appears solid, decent and intact.
Appears to be an almost oxblood reddish wine color, and possibly 21.5" frame. Its a nice looking 60+ year old three speed that will clean up and ride nice. Local only. Not shipping.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/195236381423

The 3 speed hubs on those are terrific. They are an aw knockoff done extremely well. If it's the matching shifter those are great too.

The two Sports I curate are being resuscitated and I’d like to replace the bottom-end Kendas on one of them. No more Col de la Vies or World Tours? What’s the preference and sources for better tires these days?

https://en.boutiquevelovintage.com/p...age/pneus-650a

Not sure what the hot ticket is but I found Michelins.

Apparently shipping is more than the tires!

I put these Schwalbe tires on a 1940 Sports, and they really look the part: https://www.schwalbetires.com/Delta-...-Plus-11101072


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e9e5b95fa.jpeg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...7b5a4158b.jpeg