Originally Posted by Velocivixen (Post 18684565)

I "adopted" "Miss Molly" a likely 1972 Raleigh Twenty in almost new all original condition. Woman bought it from her neighbor whose husband had passed away. He took it in their RV and rode it around while traveling. She replaced the brake pads, installed Schwalbe 20" x 1.5 tires (406 - smaller 20" wheels), repacked the lower headset and front wheel hub. She bought a cotter press but could not get the cotters out, so she wanted to sell it. There was a torn up sticker on it from "Dicks" bicycle shop in Vancouver, WA, which no longer exists, so it's a local bike.

Chainring chrome is spotless with no rust or wear on the teeth, and bottom bracket spindle & races are pristine, however there was a ball bearing "half" inside - the other half fell out when she was working on the bike. Never knew ball bearings could break in half. She had dripped Tri-flo down the seat tube to get some sort of lubrication into the bottom bracket.

It definitely needs new cables, but I really want to keep the housings because they are like new. Brakes will be alright, but with the shifter I'll either have to use JB Weld or use a clamp on end. I wish I could get some lube in there, but can't, so ...


https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1511/...79548be4_z.jpg"Miss Molly" R20 by velocivixen, on Flickr

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1677/...4e796f9f_z.jpgR20 Chainwheel by velocivixen, on Flickr

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1555/...5892cd86_z.jpgR20 Bottom Bracket Spindle by velocivixen, on Flickr

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1655/...0f89feea_z.jpgBearing Race Fixed Cup by velocivixen, on Flickr

Originally Posted by Loose Chain (Post 18680134)

So you are saying brake levers in the 60s and back were solid steel? I do not seem to recall this on my former 3 speed. Interesting.

J

Originally Posted by Velocivixen (Post 18685457)

@arex - it's all done and together. I couldn't get a caliper in there but from the face of the fixed cup to the center of the chainring, where it slides onto the spindle looks to be about 5? or so mm. That's just an eyeball guesstimate though.

Originally Posted by Velocivixen (Post 18685684)

@arex - would you consider posting some pictures? I don't really know what you mean. Did you remove your fixed cup? Mine stayed in - was painted so no need to remove. Just removed everything from the other side.

Please post close ups. Changing ball bearings shouldn't cause problems. I assume it was fine prior to disassembly?

Originally Posted by ChimChim (Post 18686294)

Please forgive me if I'm stating the otherwise obvious, but could the spindle be installed in the wrong direction? Shorter non-drive side on the drive side?

Originally Posted by arex (Post 18686306)

Long end is on the drive side. I even tried the crank on the non-drive side, and it doesn't even remotely line up with the cotter slot.

Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 18686458)

I was thinking that perhaps the fixed cup wasn't fully seated, but your experiment with the aftermarket crank seems to rule that out and place the blame squarely on the chainring/crank assembly. From Velocivixen's photo, this looks to be the very same 46T chainring/crank used on the Sports model. Sports cranks measure 6 1/2" (crank hole centerline to pedal hole centerline). If they are the same, you could find one on eBay.
edit
wait a minute...that's on backwards. The fixed cup should be on the drive side. How could that be? The fixed cup is left hand threaded and adjustable cup is right handed. I'm seeing the adjustable cup locknut behind the chainwheel in the picture. That shouldn't be there!

Originally Posted by Velocivixen (Post 18686316)

So you are saying that when you slide the chainring onto the spindle on the drive side, and the end of the spindle is generally flush with the edge of the crank arm, the inside of the chainring is that close to the fixed cup? That's odd. What the clearance like on the crankarm on the NDS?

I dont know. Hmm....what do you think is happening?

Maybe @FBinNY will comment. He's seen everything and is a great resource.

Originally Posted by Jawihan (Post 18686826)

Sorry if I'm seeing it wrong, but doesn't the 1st. picture show the fixed cup (with scarring) on the drive side? Of course, my old eyes may be wrong

Originally Posted by arex (Post 18686306)

Long end is on the drive side. I even tried the crank on the non-drive side, and it doesn't even remotely line up with the cotter slot.

Originally Posted by Velocivixen (Post 18687278)

@arex- so I'm a little confused, so forgive me if this has been fully explained (my brain is on coffee & hasn't kicked in yet). On my R20's the fixed cup, on the drive side is screwed into the frame 1-2mm farther than the one in your photo. So, can you make your fixed cup go in farther? On the NDS, on my bike, the cup goes in, then the lock ring, when tightened there are no visible threads from the adjustable cup showing. I went back to look and the "bulge" part on the inside face of the chain ring is about 1-2mm from the raised, tool flats, on the fixed cup.

Originally Posted by Velocivixen (Post 18686316)

So you are saying that when you slide the chainring onto the spindle on the drive side, and the end of the spindle is generally flush with the edge of the crank arm, the inside of the chainring is that close to the fixed cup? That's odd. What the clearance like on the crankarm on the NDS?

I dont know. Hmm....what do you think is happening?

Maybe @FBinNY will comment. He's seen everything and is a great resource.

Originally Posted by Velocivixen (Post 18687566)

@FBinNY - thanks for chiming in. Yes, this is a long, loving thread. Good ideas.
@arex - take lots of photos & let us know how it turns out. I have a 44 tooth original crankset from my first R20 that you can have for the cost of shipping. Unfortunately the chrome on the NDS is cosmetically in poor shape. They work(ed) great though. PM me if you're interested & I can get them right out to you. VV

Originally Posted by artclone (Post 18687925)

Are those the correct sized bearings? Bearing size will affect spindle and adjustable cup location.