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-   -   For the love of English 3 speeds... (https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=623699)

almico8 06-14-24 06:26 PM

Bike is home. Already did my first "repair". The drive side shifter wasn't working when I picked it up. The seller was surprised and when I looked at the linkage I found the whatsis shaft unscrewed from the gizmo inside the hub. Screwed it back in and it's "working".

So much to do on the this bike. It appears to be all there and worth bringing back. I'll probably take it apart bit by bit and de-rust and refurbish what I can.

That said, I could really use some guidance. I'm pretty mechanical, but this is all a foreign language to me. Are there parts books and service manuals available? Heck, I don't even know how these double trigger shifters are supposed to work!

The serial number was on the downtube below the seat post. E4205222. A little sleuthing tells me this is a 1970 bike. Makes sense now with the 1969 SA hub. Speaking of which, does SA have parts and old manuals for their hubs? There sure are enough of them still out there.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...27463dd52.jpeghttps://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...9da551d47.jpeg

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...47b0ddce7.jpeg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...267d7b23f.jpeg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...3e40c76c0.jpeg

SirMike1983 06-14-24 09:47 PM

You have an April 1974 frame. The N at the start indicates Nottingham factory. The E indicates produced in April. The 4 indicates 1974.

See Kurt's helpful website on the standard serial system:

https://www.kurtkaminer.com/TH_raleigh_serials.html

Nice find.

almico8 06-14-24 10:02 PM


Originally Posted by SirMike1983 (Post 23268511)
You have an April 1974 frame. The N at the start indicates Nottingham factory. The E indicates produced in April. The 4 indicates 1974.

See Kurt's helpful website on the standard serial system:

https://www.kurtkaminer.com/TH_raleigh_serials.html

Nice find.

Another nice rabbit hole I find myself in! Love it. Thanks!!

Found a period owners manual and Raleigh rubber block pedals. Rod brake blocks ordered too.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...125fc00ee.jpeg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...588731a09.jpeg

almico8 06-15-24 12:00 PM

Wouldn't you know it, I was scanning the universe for a proper pump and found another '74. This on is a 3-speed in superbe condition with a pump...same $$$. I might have to go get it.

And it comes with the original manual, and the tool "kit", and the pedals I just bought. Just goes to show you, DO NOT do today, what should be put off till tomorrow.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ab4140310a.png

Sedgemop 06-15-24 01:16 PM


Originally Posted by 52telecaster (Post 23264338)
I haven't been on in a while but reading this thread is the best. Done a small amount of commuting. When I don't need to tow a trailer the aw hub is a common mode for me. Also my girlfriend and I like to explore new cities by bike on our camping trips. The aw is great for that too. My particular frameset is a cycle gitane tour de France. I love the feel of this bike!
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...31110a3cc8.jpg
French fit!

Great to see this frame reborn.

SirMike1983 06-15-24 01:57 PM


Originally Posted by almico8 (Post 23268862)
Wouldn't you know it, I was scanning the universe for a proper pump and found another '74. This on is a 3-speed in superbe condition with a pump...same $$$. I might have to go get it.

And it comes with the original manual, and the tool "kit", and the pedals I just bought. Just goes to show you, DO NOT do today, what should be put off till tomorrow.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ab4140310a.png

Yours was the better buy, having the white tail and 5 speed with good bell crank. The first gen 5 speed hub is highly sought after. $150 for that other one also is pretty good. I paid $125 for my 1978 in early 2004, back when money was more expensive to use. You're on a hot streak.

almico8 06-15-24 02:52 PM


Originally Posted by SirMike1983 (Post 23268933)
Yours was the better buy, having the white tail and 5 speed with good bell crank.

We spoke too soon on the bell crank.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...fa45b684a.jpeg


There are still threads on the cable side. I could drill and tap or braze.

bluesteak 06-16-24 03:04 PM


Originally Posted by almico8 (Post 23268971)
We spoke too soon on the bell crank.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...fa45b684a.jpeg


There are still threads on the cable side. I could drill and tap or braze.

Sorry to see your bellcrank is broken. It looks like a tough repair.

I have a question about the original photo of the bell crank. The photo shows a cone locknut being used instead of a standard axle nut which doesnít seem right to me. I havenít ever actually installed an S5. Could someone comment on the correct setup. Is it likely that improper install of the bellcrank led to the failure of the shift linkage.

almico8 06-16-24 05:42 PM

This is what I have of the S5 hub...I think.


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...242dca29a4.jpg

capnjonny 06-16-24 07:54 PM

Just another Schwinn Breeze

I just can't get away from 3 speeds these days.
This Schwinn breeze showed up at the Bike Exchange with rotten tires and no 3 speed shifter or cable and I just had to take it home and clean it up.

It has a few chips and scratcheds but the paint still looks pretty good. I wiped off the Schwinn Breeze logo on the chain guard. It must have been painted on with white wash because just wiping a rag over it errased the paint completely. Oh Well.

We have lots of 3 speed stuff at the shop and I was able to find a new looking shifter and cable which I put a white cover on to match the white brake cables. Even found a set of new looking Schwinn white grips.

I put a nice comfy saddle on it to replace the ruined Schwinn unit and some nice flat pedals. The original pedals were fine, I just like these platforms. I think they give it an updated look.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...578894d518.jpg

Ged117 06-17-24 08:22 AM

A strange request, but would someone be kind enough to measure the white tail on their Raleigh mudguard? How far up the curve does the white tail go? For future reference as I prep for paint.

Thanks.

bharrisonb 06-17-24 08:30 AM

9" from bottom of mudguard to top of the white tail ... on my Raleigh Sports (1971)...
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...9c05a790cd.jpg

Ged117 06-17-24 09:36 AM


Originally Posted by bharrisonb (Post 23270354)
9" from bottom of mudguard to top of the white tail ... on my Raleigh Sports (1971)...

Thank you kindly!

bharrisonb 06-17-24 10:24 AM

BTW, this is the reason I always keep a spare 13/32 nut in my toolkit ... after 53 years, this one finally stripped ... leaving the axel threads in perfect shape.

In diving they say "no o-ring, no dive" . On a Raleigh, "no thread on you 13/32, no ride" !

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...7324c1804f.jpg
Inner threads stripped ... 53 year old original nut (chain side, rear).

almico8 06-18-24 06:38 AM

For my sad bell crank above, any reason I can't use the Shimano bell crank and just transplant the cable attachment?

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b5c2ab7420.png

Cyclespanner 06-18-24 07:08 AM


Originally Posted by Ged117 (Post 23270347)
A strange request, but would someone be kind enough to measure the white tail on their Raleigh mudguard? How far up the curve does the white tail go? For future reference as I prep for paint.

Thanks.

Not too long ago I posted on the forum the original UK Regulations regarding how to measure the 'white tail'.
This became a wartime requirement and wasn't de-regulated until 1957 or there about.
Though today it is a decorative element, it still retains it's original safety function.

John D 06-18-24 07:35 AM

Bell crank
 

Originally Posted by almico8 (Post 23271172)
For my sad bell crank above, any reason I can't use the Shimano bell crank and just transplant the cable attachment?

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b5c2ab7420.png

The Shimano is a different thread, but you can trans plant that section from a drive side indicator chain.

tcs 06-18-24 08:04 AM

The Sturmey intelligentsia inform me that the Shimano 3/8x24 can be rethreaded to the S-A 13/32x24 axle thread. Apparently a common repair.

almico8 06-18-24 08:11 AM


Originally Posted by tcs (Post 23271264)
The Sturmey intelligentsia inform me that the Shimano 3/8x24 can be rethreaded to the S-A 13/32x24 axle thread. Apparently a common repair.

I saw a thread where someone converted an old S-A axle into a thread tap. I don't happen to have one of those. But... https://drillsandcutters.com/13-32-3...UaAsdjEALw_wcB

A 13/32x24 bottom tap is not crazy expensive.

My first choice is to try and drill/tap the broken cable connector. A #36 bit and 6-32 tap is easy. Let's see if that holds. I would maybe epoxy it in, or maybe silver solder. I ordered a 6-32 bottoming tap from Amazon for $2.23 including shipping. What?! https://www.amazon.com/Drill-America...8720251&sr=8-6

If that doesn't work (show up) I will try a 13/32x24 tap and use the entire Shimano bell crank.

If I can't get that to go, then I'll cannibalize the broke part from the Shimano bell crank and pin it into mine.

JohnDThompson 06-18-24 02:30 PM


Originally Posted by bharrisonb (Post 23270472)
BTW, this is the reason I always keep a spare 13/32 nut in my toolkit ... after 53 years, this one finally stripped ... leaving the axel threads in perfect shape.

In diving they say "no o-ring, no dive" . On a Raleigh, "no thread on you 13/32, no ride" !

If you need it, I have a good supply of SA rear axle nuts.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...f786d932c3.jpg
They're all the windowed version, to allow visualization of the indicator rod, but you can saw that off for use on the other side, if it bothers you. That's what I did for this nut when the original stripped:

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c57a2b5f85.jpg
PM if interested, and we can work something out.

markk900 06-18-24 05:31 PM


Originally Posted by Ged117 (Post 23270347)
A strange request, but would someone be kind enough to measure the white tail on their Raleigh mudguard? How far up the curve does the white tail go? For future reference as I prep for paint.

Thanks.

Canít remember which video it was but there is one wherein the worker responsible for the white tails simply dunks the fender in a bucket of paint. He seems pretty consistent 😂

SirMike1983 06-18-24 06:10 PM


Originally Posted by markk900 (Post 23271742)
Can’t remember which video it was but there is one wherein the worker responsible for the white tails simply dunks the fender in a bucket of paint. He seems pretty consistent 😂

Atlas probably, see 7:19:

SirMike1983 06-19-24 08:19 AM

Nice ride on a 1964 Schwinn Traveler a couple evenings ago. Spotted a pair of wild turkeys in a field.

https://blogger.googleusercontent.co...611_183311.jpg

https://blogger.googleusercontent.co...617_182856.jpg

tcs 06-19-24 08:41 AM

Astound and amuse your friends with this Sturmey-Archer fun fact: Sturmey-Archer uses 13/32x24 axle threads EXCEPT on the C30 rotary shift hubs (like the RS-RF3) where they use 3/8x24 and on the modern four-speed hubs (like the XRF4) where they use M10.

3/8x24 is also used on the GH-6 Dynohub, while M9 is used on the modern X-FD front brake and modern Dynohubs (the HDS series).

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...92687131fe.png

markk900 06-19-24 09:35 AM


Originally Posted by SirMike1983 (Post 23271778)

Thatís the one; and even better heís sloshing the paint on rather than dipping.

SirMike1983 06-19-24 10:42 AM


Originally Posted by markk900 (Post 23272219)
Thatís the one; and even better heís sloshing the paint on rather than dipping.


The last white patch I did was carefully cleaned, prepped, masked, and painted. Turned out all I needed was some paint and a big ole coffee mug. It's interesting how people can accomplish stuff with the most basic tools if they have enough practice.

1pc@atime 06-19-24 03:10 PM

First off, I've been reading these pages here for about a year, I finally signed up after scoring a $10 Sports with a hub dated 4-67.
Its a size smaller than I wanted but doable. I figure a bit small is better than a bit too big.

It was at a yard sale that was winding down, the guy had a $40 tag on it but it was looking pretty rough.
The chain had a few stiff links due to rust, so I soaked it in gas, dried it and had it soaking in Evaporust for two days.
It cleaned up nice and should be just fine. The rear hub shifts and seems to work as it should, the brakes are only a suggestion, as the John Bull pads have petrified over the years, and the tires actually pumped up and seem to hold air, despite being a bit more than just dry rotted and worn. The bottom bracket will need to come apart but for now I ran some oil down the seat tube which helped free things up a bit.
Its missing its chain guard and the fork looks like it was repainted by a toddler with finger paints.
Both fenders are chrome but the rear fender is dented to the point it rubs the tire and apparently has been ridden that way for a long time since the chrome there is discolored from heat. They can be straightened but it'll never be perfect, but the seller gave me a set of black fenders that look to be similar but with a glass rear reflector .The first thing I did was toss that ugly tin chain guard.
I got it clean up good enough to take it for a short ride to make sure it was all straight and shifted as it should.

Does anyone know of a better match to the dark brown they used in those years?
Its a darker brown metallic than most I've seen but it looks original except for the fork.
I was surprised it still had a pump with it, but the little hose is rotted pretty bad. The only markings I see on the pump are a "Made in England' on the one end.


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...4a03fa2795.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...708db2d937.jpg
(added pics, 6/22/2024)




1pc@atime 06-22-24 12:14 AM


Originally Posted by SirMike1983 (Post 23272149)
Nice ride on a 1964 Schwinn Traveler a couple evenings ago. Spotted a pair of wild turkeys in a field.

I picked up a basket case 1962 Traveler today, the paint is fair but the decals are pretty well worn. Its got a stripped steer tube that will need replacing. The rims are mint with a set of vintage chain tread Uniroyal tires and S-5 rims. Its got a pretty cool looking silver starburst headbadge too.
I was going to leave the vintage chain tread tires but I like the look of those white walls on a black bike.

SirMike1983 06-22-24 09:18 PM


Originally Posted by 1pc@atime (Post 23274894)
I picked up a basket case 1962 Traveler today, the paint is fair but the decals are pretty well worn. Its got a stripped steer tube that will need replacing. The rims are mint with a set of vintage chain tread Uniroyal tires and S-5 rims. Its got a pretty cool looking silver starburst headbadge too.
I was going to leave the vintage chain tread tires but I like the look of those white walls on a black bike.

1962 would be the ornate Traveler frame decals. "Bicyclebones" shop in NY and on eBay sells reproductions of those decals if you want to re-do them. They're waterslides and do take some skill and patience to mount due to their size. I leave the originals if at all possible as I did on my 1959 Traveler. But if the graphics on the frame are totally gone, you can still get a set of reproductions through Bicyclebones.


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...9f9eff228a.jpg

SirMike1983 06-22-24 09:19 PM

Took out my 1953 Lenton for a ride the other evening. It's certainly humid here the past few days.

https://blogger.googleusercontent.co...620_164948.jpg

https://blogger.googleusercontent.co...620_165739.jpg


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