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-   -   For the love of English 3 speeds... (https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=623699)

arex 10-04-14 07:25 AM


Originally Posted by noglider (Post 17128734)
Well, it's English, and it's a three-speed, but it's not an English three-speed.

I don't understand.

noglider 10-04-14 08:18 AM


Originally Posted by arex (Post 17186675)
I don't understand.

It's an English bike that was a ten speed before I got my hands on it. It now has a Sturmey Archer S3X 3-speed fixed gear hub. It's quite light and spritely.

markk900 10-04-14 09:10 AM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 17186664)
Here's a quick project that I was working on last weekend. A 1964 Raleigh built 3 speed for Eatons of Canada. I t still have a few details to finish but all and all a nice ride.
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=409862More photos here:
1964 Glider Update. | Three Speed Mania

gster - saw this over on TSM - neat bike in a very interesting colour. Are you in Toronto?

arex 10-04-14 09:40 AM


Originally Posted by noglider (Post 17186774)
It's an English bike that was a ten speed before I got my hands on it. It now has a Sturmey Archer S3X 3-speed fixed gear hub. It's quite light and spritely.

Okay...nice!

streets 10-04-14 09:45 AM

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...psaf3a9b60.jpg

1937 Raleigh 27X. Just repairing the bottom bracket before it's pressed into service again!

gster 10-04-14 02:05 PM

Yes, I am.

gna 10-04-14 03:49 PM

I fixed up a '64 Speedster that had an AW hub. Fork was bent, but the fellas in the machine shop straightened for me. I gave it to a coworker.

I've also seen a few Schwinns with 36H alloy hubs.

SirMike1983 10-04-14 08:28 PM


Originally Posted by gna (Post 17187651)
I fixed up a '64 Speedster that had an AW hub. Fork was bent, but the fellas in the machine shop straightened for me. I gave it to a coworker.

I've also seen a few Schwinns with 36H alloy hubs.

Yes- apparently Schwinn actually ordered quite a few of the alloy hubs, at least compared to others. I actually have a 1954 alloy AW I just cleaned out. Will have to get a picture of it. It came off a Schwinn as well, if I recall.

noglider 10-04-14 09:06 PM


Originally Posted by streets (Post 17186978)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...psaf3a9b60.jpg

1937 Raleigh 27X. Just repairing the bottom bracket before it's pressed into service again!

I don't think I've ever seen such slack angles!

BGBeck 10-06-14 09:27 PM


Originally Posted by JohnDThompson (Post 12747912)
Only if you fit the specific mounting hardware onto the lamp:

http://www.os2.dhs.org/~john/sa_light_clamp.jpg

Where can I find one of these?

JohnDThompson 10-07-14 08:44 AM


Originally Posted by BGBeck (Post 17194119)

There's usually some on eBay:

Vintage Bicycle Dynamo Front Lamp Bracket Raleigh BSA Rudge Humber Lucas Miller | eBay

wahoonc 10-11-14 01:13 PM


Originally Posted by smontanaro (Post 17183725)
All three-speed Speedsters I've encountered had Aw hubs. I cleaned up a '59 Speedster (step-through frame) for my niece a few months ago that had a metal oil port cap. I don't know when they switched to plastic caps.

Went from metal to plastic around 1962 or so. All of my 1950's hubs have metal. I have one 1964 that has plastic, most of my hubs are 1970's onward.

Aaron :)

wahoonc 10-11-14 01:14 PM


Originally Posted by smontanaro (Post 17183725)
All three-speed Speedsters I've encountered had Aw hubs. I cleaned up a '59 Speedster (step-through frame) for my niece a few months ago that had a metal oil port cap. I don't know when they switched to plastic caps.

Went from metal to plastic around 1962 or so. All of my 1950's hubs have metal. I have one 1964 that has plastic, most of my hubs are 1970's onward.

Aaron :)

arex 10-11-14 03:06 PM

Is it true that the plastic oil caps seal better than the metal?

loubapache 10-11-14 04:01 PM

Plastic leaks less than metal but plastic still deforms and hardens then the fitting get a little loose. Recently I laced a 1963 hub to a CR18 rim and I just cut out a 1" section of inner tube. Forced it onto the hub and no more leaks. It is also very convenient to put oil in there. I just need to move the tube slightly to expose the hole. One can only do this when lacing the hub, though.

I have a 1956 hub that has metal and a 1960 with plastic. However, there is no 100% guarantee that the cap is original on the 1960 hub.

markk900 10-11-14 04:45 PM

I repaired the metal one on my 49 hub with a 0000 rubber stopper I got from Widgetco ( actually they were cheap so I bought 10 which was good for experimenting with). Looks like a regular black cap and you don't have to re-lace the wheel. I oil through the indicator chain hole now.

wahoonc 10-11-14 05:11 PM


Originally Posted by arex (Post 17208099)
Is it true that the plastic oil caps seal better than the metal?

When they are new...

I buy plastic caps (prefer the old white ones) by the dozen when I find them on sale.

An alternate if your cap is missing or in the case of the metal ones the flip cap is gone, is to use a nylon screw, I have a handful of those too and just cut them down a bit and thread them in the hole.

Aaron :)

auchencrow 10-11-14 05:27 PM

If you're parking an English 3-speed, make sure the oil port is at 12:00, and you won't have to worry about the cap.
Besides, it wouldn't be English if it didn't leak oil.

redbaybound 10-11-14 07:26 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Just bought a 73 Raleigh LTD 3 for my sister. I think it needs a little bath...
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=411309

noglider 10-11-14 08:21 PM

Oh my. But I finally get to say, That'll buff right out. :lol:

JohnDThompson 10-11-14 09:06 PM

McMaster-Carr has oiler caps that look just like the originals:

http://images1.mcmaster.com/Contents...e/1229kc1l.png

McMaster-Carr

loubapache 10-11-14 09:29 PM

These McMaster-Carr caps may not work, at least without some work.

First the thread size of the AW is 1/4" x 20.

The caps have only about three threads so most of the
McMaster-Carr caps are too long.

Then the shipping is just as high as some places selling the AW replacement caps. The caps are inexpensive but the shipping is not.

A whole used hub may cost just about as much as the cost of getting one of these caps.

rubah 10-24-14 12:30 AM

I am back! Unfortunately, my '65 Raleigh Sport has not returned to me, but I did pick up this '69-ish model from a guy on Craigslist last weekend for $100. It's in pretty rough shape, but I intend for it to be my boyfriend's ride once I get a suitable step-through frame. I think someone put an older chain case on it, then added some replacement "decals" to match. Also, someone filed off the pump pegs :( :( senseless violence... why??


I apologize in advance for the messiness of my apartment; all I have been thinking about is bikes lately for some reason...
It needs a new stem; someone had changed the handlebars, and the 15/16" holder was not cutting it.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5...17-44-0443.jpg

A bike without a stem:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-6...34-38-0449.jpg
I was so excited that I got the stem out (someone on ebay had a raleigh multi-tool, spanner and two hex sockets, and it made it so easy to get the stem out. I struggled for a couple of hours on saturday with my adjustable wrench and eventually gave up) that I ran to autozone to pick up some wd-40 so I could clean the thing.

A bike without a stem and without a front wheel:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_...23-34-0450.jpg

Here is one reason why it needed a new stem:
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-E...023_193553.jpg

Here it is with a new stem, but the front tire isn't adjusted:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-v...38-33-0451.jpg

Turns out some SOB taped the front rim with duct tape:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-V...00-14-0456.jpg

There are deteriorating tape threads all over now, but I cleaned it off enough to put real tape on.

Here is a bike whose front hub has been cleaned and regressed and retaped without duct tape this time:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-s...08-49-0457.jpg

Next steps:
New shifter cable, since the old one doesn't reach all the way with the new stem on (you can see it just barely hangs on in the middle, there, I'll be riding in 3rd gear for a few days)
Clean up and relube back hub
Figure out why the seat is crooked
Do a more thorough cleaning, maybe OA front and rear hubs (assuming rear needs it, haven't cracked it open yet).
Figure out why the front tire is so low at that one point. I tried reseating it, but it didn't really stay in any other position than that. The rim seems true enough.
Put a kickstand on it maybe

Something that is really throwing me for a loop is how I can't get the front wheel off unassisted. I have to prise the forks apart while my boyfriend pulls on it to get the axel free. With my previous '65, it came out of the forks incredibly easily (which made it kind of hard to adjust the cones properly). Did Raleigh change their fork manufacturing somewhere in there? Also, if anyone has any good examples of front-hub hardware, I'd appreciate it. I really don't remember my old one having this sequence of nut washer fork cone hub cone fork washer nut, but I did have some parts left over when I finished it :o

BGBeck 11-01-14 12:16 PM

Well I finally have something relevant add to this thread. My 1976 Raleigh Sports. New tires/tubes so far. Rides nicely except for a skip or bump when pedaling. With the right pedal at 6 o'clock, there's a skip or bump as the left pedal crosses 12 o'clock. Not sure if it's the hub or BB. Any ideas?

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...9101890001.jpg

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...9201900001.jpg

imabeliever1 11-01-14 12:20 PM

Lower picture "looks" like the crank arms do not line up. Could be a loose cotter is letting the rank move, and that is what you are feeling.


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