Originally Posted by gster;

Here's a mid 60's CCM Galaxie 3 Speed for sale on Kijiji here in Toronto with the SA throttle shifter.

Originally Posted by thumpism (Post 18099091)

Four speed might disqualify it from inclusion in this thread.

Moulton 4 Speed Vintage English Bicycle Archer

Moulton 4 Speed Vintage English Bicycle Archer - $495 (Ashland) < >
http://images.craigslist.org/00o0o_k...2m_600x450.jpg


http://images.craigslist.org/00000_d...Pt_600x450.jpg


http://images.craigslist.org/00o0o_k...u2m_50x50c.jpghttp://images.craigslist.org/00P0P_a...EKb_50x50c.jpghttp://images.craigslist.org/01313_k...kJp_50x50c.jpghttp://images.craigslist.org/00000_d...9Pt_50x50c.jpg
condition: good


Made in England.
Has some wear & scratches to paint finish.
May have some shifting issues.
I'm not quite sure of the operation of the Archer shifter.
Otherwise overall good condition for its age.
Rides nice.
$495.00 obo
Email, text or call Kenny show contact info (cel).

Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver (Post 18142344)

CCM's stamped headbadges gave way to stickers in 1965, date codes on CCM bicycles are not hard to interpret either as there is very good information on them.

One of the pre-eminent collectors of CCM bicycles lives here and much of his work has helped provide this.

Originally Posted by adventurepdx (Post 18082835)

I'd go for the Delta Cruisers. They are fine for crushed gravel, and I ride them regularly on other non-paved surfaces. While I thought the ride quality of the Col de la Vie were better than Delta Cruisers, the lack of decent puncture protection meant that I ended up fixing flats more often than I should for a "city" bike. If only Panaracer made a Pasela in 590 size...

And yeah, cream Delta Cruisers can get "dirty" but not as bad as some people think. And if you have steel rims, you don't have to worry so much about brake dust dirtying the wheels. This pic is from Saturday, and it's hard to tell that the Delta Cruisers are dirty, you'd have to get pretty close to tell.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5714/...aca1c45d_z.jpg

Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver (Post 18142366)

You know I am a huge fan of these tyres, they suit a vintage bicycle in the aesthetic department and have those nice modern touches like scotchlite and kevlar to makes one's ride a little safer and more reliable.

Originally Posted by gster (Post 18141000)

I have another little project I'm working on and bought a 28" coaster brake wheel today. It's stamped Bayliss Wiley 36/12. There's not much info out there but it's in remarkably clean condition. It even had a new tire on it.
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=475463

Originally Posted by nlerner (Post 18143410)

Bayliss Wiley was making cottered bottom brackets for Raleigh road bikes into the early 70s, so was it just the hub division that Perry took over?

Originally Posted by clubman (Post 18143478)

Makes sense, never seen a Perry spindle. Perry's were great, until they weren't. Some Achilles heel in them apparently, I've seen lots of them in parts drawers and very few on functioning bikes. An early BW version is very cool.

Originally Posted by redfoxdogs (Post 18143786)

Needing some help finding handlebars. We recently purchased a couple of Raleigh Twentys. The 1971 has swept back ape hanger like bars while the 1975 has bars that are closer to straight.the stems look to be the same. I prefer the ape hanger bars because the rise and swept back grip are far more comfortable for my musician's carpal tunnel. I've read that the size is unusual and you can't get them. Any suggestions?

Originally Posted by redfoxdogs (Post 18144478)

Also...here is a link to a site that shows how my neighbor is making a "new" Raleigh out of an old one for me!

John's Bicycle Restorations

Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver (Post 18144767)

Perry hubs are very efficient when they are going as they are very smooth, when it comes to stopping they are better described as speed attenuators.

:)

Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver (Post 18144767)

Perry hubs are very efficient when they are going as they are very smooth, when it comes to stopping they are better described as speed attenuators.

:)

Originally Posted by gster (Post 18145396)

Last post on this one until I find a 28" front wheel and mini fender. I'll probably add a front caliper brake as well (recommended). The saddle is a well worn and broken in leather, Japanese Speedic. Total cost of this project is about $60.00 Canadian so about $45.00 U.S. Please ignore the rabid cat in the background.
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=475871http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=475872

Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver (Post 18145518)

I ran a Perry hub on my 1951 CCM, with a front brake.

It was a really nice set up.

Originally Posted by gster (Post 18145762)

I'm going to give it a go next weekend.

Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver (Post 18146268)

Before I installed the front brake I got cut off by a car and broad sided it... I was running a modern coaster brake on a different wheel and was able to lock up the rear but that still wasn't enough.

After I replaced my fork and installed a front brake I went back and measured the stopping distance using the front brake as the skid marks were still etched on the road... had I been running that I never would have hit the car.

I use this as a cautionary tale when the hipsters roll into the shop and tell me they don't need a front brake and any coaster equipped bike we can add a front brake to gets one.

Now the CCM runs a fixed wheel with a front brake... it stops on a dime.


http://www.ravingbikefiend.com/bikep...13ccmpath1.JPG

Originally Posted by redfoxdogs (Post 18144478)

Also...here is a link to a site that shows how my neighbor is making a "new" Raleigh out of an old one for me!

John's Bicycle Restorations