http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/bik/2515752128.html

$80 Rudge Step Through with brooks saddle (doesn't look sprung, hard to tell) and saddle bag.

The silver Sports for $200 is also still available.

I don't think it's worth it because they just don't have much resale value and there are so many of them. Rob - if you want that one near me, which I think is a 23, let me know. It's been sitting at 200, so he might take less.

I had a phillips camelback like that too. they are out there...

I've been riding my restored sports around a lot lately, I just LOVE me some 3-speed goodness. Upping the rear sprocket to a 21 tooth (all that would fit under the chaincase) was a great idea.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=212530

BTW if anyone is interested I'm about 90% sure that mine is a 1938.
- It had chromed (rusty) spokes, which means pre 1939 according to the catalogs
- undated AW with no "Patented" which I understand appeared during wartime with no date.
- trigger shifter, which means 1937 or 38 on. The cable stop for a trigger was original - its the early one without the metal sleeve in it.
- GH8 dynohub, which was only available from 1938-45 (No numbers on the dynohub but I looked at pictures on the sturmey site and I'm 90% sure it is a GH8 not a GH12) Where do you find the date on a dynohub if there is one?
- lighting unit is the battery reserve one sold with the GH8
- 1936 and 1937 raleigh sports that I've found have a silver or grey painted head tube. Mine is black.

I suppose it could be wartime if Raleigh reverted back to chromed spokes instead of stainless during that period. THe black parts were available earlier I have discovered from the catalogs and from Flickr.The AW has no date and no "patented". I have another bike that I just bought that I believe to be a true wartime bike and it has a hub that says AW Patented" with no date.

From what I've seen, undated AW hubs = 1936, the year the hub was introduced. The 1937-39 models had a single digit to indicate year: AW-7 = 1937. Any date code on the dynohub?

Neal

Aaron,

Thank you for bringing back the memories. After all these years (damned near 40) I'm still wondering what possessed me to sell off my 23" Ivory Sports and replace it with a Coffee Twenty. Yeah, I lived in a second story apartment over a framing shop, and my bicycle shop and storage were yet another flight up in the attic - and there was a decent sized closet at the top of the living space stairs. So, of course it was a logical iead to get a Twenty, and keep it folded in the closet when not riding.

It never occurred to me that at 5' 10-1/2" with a 32" inseam, I'd have the seatpost out past the recommended mark and just barely in the seat tube enough to clamp it down. And my legs still weren't quite straight out on the down-stroke. That bike never did fit me well. Didn't stop me from doing TOSRV one year in a suit, bowler hat, and bow tie. Smoking a pipe the entire way.

I still get tempted to look for another. But I haven't gotten any smaller.

Rob, I've seen 3-speeds sell for $250 and $300 in NYC, for whatever that's worth. I'm going to shine one of mine up and try to get a price like that on the NYC craigslist. I can deliver to NYC.

Keep looking. One will eventually show up. And don't rule out a 21 inch model.

They sell in Los Angeles for $200-$300+ fairly easily if they are clean and rideable.

Good thing is that the MTB market has provided us with extra long seat posts, out of alloy! To provide the needed leg extension for Twenties and RSWs'. I run a 400mm post on both and can get away with it. I really like the way the Twenty rolls, it is one of my more comfortable bikes up to about the 40 mile range, after that I am ready to get off or switch to a different bike.

I am 6'-2" with a 34" inseam, my pedal to saddle measurement is almost 39".

Aaron :)

My 70 Sports that will be going to a new home this weekend. It's pretty much all original with working Lenton light kit, saddle bag, Brooks B-72, original Dunlop double stripe tires with only very slight surface cracking.

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6143/...c7cd403e_z.jpg

Confession time...

Converted my 3 speed Kuwahara Shasta with it's dual drive to a derailleur equipped 6 speed on XT hubs with Araya wheels... plan to use it as a touring / trekking bike as soon as I build up a new triple.

On the other hand... and perhaps there will be some redemption... am building up a new bike with the AG hub and 26 inch wheelset.

:)

That's a beauty, RM.

You're not forgiven until you post pics of the new bike. :p

It is red.

GH6 dynohubs have a date stamped on the shell, more or less opposite the "Sturmey Archer" stamping. Sometimes the date is ambiguous; I have one that reads 4 5 6 which probably means 4 56 rather than 45 6 since the dynohub cover is metal rather than bakelite.

I have one of the earlier dynohubs as well, which I got from Auchencrow (and am very happy with it). But I don't know whether it's a GH8 or GH12. How do you tell? Mine says MARK II on it (rather than Mk II).

One thing about the blacked out parts: there seems to have been a fashion for black stuff even before the war started. Black cellulite covered handlebars, black spokes, black hubs, etc. do not necessarily mean wartime production.To which I'll add AW-0 = 1940

Near as I can tell from flickr and the sturmey heritage site, GH12 outer cover (on the dyno side) is nickel over brass, GH8 outer cover is unplated brass. Inner cover is unplated brass on both. GH12 inner cover says "Patents Pending" and "Made in England" at 9 and 3, along with DynoHub at 12 and "IMPORTANT blah blah blah" at 6.

The GH8 has four diamonds stamped in the brass faceplate at 12, 3, 6, 9, and lots of writing about patents (including something in dutch) parallel to the circumference.

I dont think there was a MARK II GH8 but who knows...

Thanks, I'm taking notes on this!

Does either one say "Sturmey Archer" on it? I think mine only says "Dynohub," no mention of either Sturmey Archer or Raleigh Industries.

Well none of the pictures I have seen say "sturmey Archer" on the front, not GH12 or 8 anyway.

This may have been covered before, but I thought I kick start this thread. I have a four speed, 64 SA FW, and it is sometimes trouble some to get it into first gear. I put the bike on the rack and checked the position of the indicator which is correct. The upper three gears are easy smooth to shift into. First gear takes more force. Any thougtht or suggestions?

Back off the cable adjuster just a wee bit... there should be the smallest bit of slack when the bike is in first in that it should not be pulled taut and have the smallest amount of wiggle room.

At times the drive side bearing can be mis-adjusted and this can also cause shifting issues on an otherwise solid hub.

1966 Dunelt, Ebay find, not incredible but not bad.
 

Hey folks, here's a 1966 Dunelt that I picked up for a lady friend. The original paint is a bit rough but not seriously bad. The entire bike will get a good going through with all wear items repaired or replaced. It has a Sturmey-Archer 3 spd hub with coaster brake:thumb:, cottered cranks, Dunlop 26" wheels and the chrome bars are perfect. Just add some tlc plus a basket and a bell and it will be ready for duty.

I'll post more pics when it is done.

Pistol, that's lovely.

Sigh, I have my '80 Sports that I just bought a month ago. I've been working on it. And now this shows up:

http://edmonton.kijiji.ca/c-buy-and-...AdIdZ306934759

Close to my grail bike. At $350 a tad pricey, but the condition looks excellent. If I had the cash...

23" Superbe in Bronze Green is the bike I want. I've come close a couple of times, but no cigar. $350 is a tad pricey, though.

If it was '60s and black I'd be asking my parents for a loan. I still might. And it's 10 minutes away from home.

The sticker on the downtube looks like it's from a local shop but I'm trying to remember if it was George's Cycle or Western Cycle.