Rear dropout chain tension screws
Bought a 2nd hand Planet X pro carbon frameset last week and it came without the chain tension screws in the rear dropout. Contacted Planet X and it's not something they sell separately.
Not sure on the size, M3 or M4 at a guess but am I right in thinking I can use any generic suitable length screws? Thanks |
Probably. Though it may be difficult to find exactly what you need at your local hardware store.
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Originally Posted by Paul_JL
(Post 22102653)
Bought a 2nd hand Planet X pro carbon frameset last week and it came without the chain tension screws in the rear dropout. Contacted Planet X and it's not something they sell separately.
Not sure on the size, M3 or M4 at a guess but am I right in thinking I can use any generic suitable length screws? Thanks https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b886c6638c.jpg Those aren't really to adjust chain tension, but to make sure that the axle is in the right spot to center the rim in the frame - that's my understanding, anyway. The spring helps to hold the adjuster in position, and the flat end touching the axle helps to protect the axle threads. Your LBS should have those, or you can easily find them online. In the meantime, if your frame is 'square' you can probably just slide the axle all the way back and lock the QuickRelease tight. EDIT: My apologies - I saw this in the 'new posts' listing and didn't pay attention to the sub-forum : Track Bikes Please ignore the above.... |
Thanks, i can't put a photo on as i'm a new member, but it's the bolts in a horizontal dropout
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Originally Posted by Paul_JL
(Post 22103109)
Thanks, i can't put a photo on as i'm a new member, but it's the bolts in a horizontal dropout
(pic of track bike end...) |
Originally Posted by VicBC_Biker
(Post 22103119)
A 'dropoout' like this? I think dropout is the wrong term, but anyway....
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b6614d884a.jpg |
Originally Posted by 79pmooney
(Post 22103128)
That's not a dropout. It is a track end. A dropout is by both definition and purpose for being, a slot that opens forward or down to enable a derailleur wheel to easily "drop out" for fast racing tire (now wheel) changes.
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Originally Posted by Paul_JL
(Post 22102653)
Bought a 2nd hand Planet X pro carbon frameset last week
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...fdf8fab756.jpg |
That is exactly what OP is talking about, and many people use the phrase drop out when they mean track end.
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Exactly the same bike as in your last pic VikBC Biker. I've always known that as a horizontal drop out. Anyways, it's the bolts in the rear drop outs / track ends i'm referring to?
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It does look like the Campy style adjuster screws might fit, although perhaps too small.
I'd take the frame to a hardware store to test screw sizes. At least that will get you the right thread diameter and pitch. Also verify the threads are still good. Are those really for tension? I bet they are a bit of a pain to use as they'll have to be loosened and tightened every time the chain or wheel is mounted or removed. |
Personally I removed mine for mass start racing, and haven't ever had an issue that would compel me to put them back in.
I know a few folks who only put them in for standing starts, but I think that's mostly paranoia. |
Originally Posted by Paul_JL
(Post 22102653)
Bought a 2nd hand Planet X pro carbon frameset last week and it came without the chain tension screws in the rear dropout. Contacted Planet X and it's not something they sell separately.
Not sure on the size, M3 or M4 at a guess but am I right in thinking I can use any generic suitable length screws? Thanks If you are a really strong rider there are alternative devices to prevent axle slip.similar to this https://www.amazon.com/BESPORTBLE-Bi...784778&sr=8-16 |
They are designed to keep the wheel from slipping forward during a high torque effort like a standing start or rolling jump.
In fact, that’s the preferred method for stopping this from happening as opposed to making the wheel nuts gorilla tight. This is why some manufacturers even make track disks using allen bolts which cannot be torqued down as hard as track nuts. You can fabricate something using bits from a local hardware store. Look in the metric section. You may have to buy two nuts for the machine screw and tighten them against each other to make a tip that you grip with your fingers to manipulate the screw in and off. I’ve made such before. It all costs less than $5. |
Also, your final product cannot be too long. Because, if the wheel has to go all the way forward and the tensioner all the way nearly out, then your heel will touch it.
It’s not catastrophic, just annoying. So be prepared to cut the machine screw to some optimal length. |
That makes some sense to prevent wheel slippage. However, I have never had the NDS slip (10-speed bikes), so is there any reason to have the screw on the left other than symmetry?
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this is the most overthought thread on something simple in a long time :D I love it
Just buy a couple of metric bolts the right size from your local lowes/home depot (in the drawers in the fastener section) there is some concern about thread pitch, but likely they'll be right on smaller size bolts. Buy some correct nuts for them. Thread in the dropouts to correct length for clearance, thread the nuts on as your "stop" (or use loctite purple/blue, just something to keep it from turning in transport/etc) Or just skip it... tighten down the wheel's nuts properly. Unless you are pulling big starts or using crappy locknuts you'll be fine. |
Originally Posted by CliffordK
(Post 22104024)
That makes some sense to prevent wheel slippage. However, I have never had the NDS slip (10-speed bikes), so is there any reason to have the screw on the left other than symmetry?
Originally Posted by Morelock
(Post 22104235)
this is the most overthought thread on something simple in a long time :D I love it
Just buy a couple of metric bolts the right size from your local lowes/home depot (in the drawers in the fastener section) there is some concern about thread pitch, but likely they'll be right on smaller size bolts. Buy some correct nuts for them. Thread in the dropouts to correct length for clearance, thread the nuts on as your "stop" (or use loctite purple/blue, just something to keep it from turning in transport/etc) Or just skip it... tighten down the wheel's nuts properly. Unless you are pulling big starts or using crappy locknuts you'll be fine. On the other end, Tiemeyer used Ti...and don't have any tensioners or allowance for such. And I never slipped a wheel using my Tiemeyer frames. And any big sprinter using a Tiemeyer probably didn't have any either. Ti is the key. |
The one's that came stock with my bike weren't long enough so I got my longer ones at the hardware store. It doesn't have the knob, but I basically made my own by using a couple of nuts. I used to think they were unnecessary, but it really makes adjusting the chain tension quick and easy so I've grown to really like them.
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Originally Posted by carleton
(Post 22104575)
I would suspect that you've also never done a maximal standing start on a road bike either. But, maybe you simply don't produce enough torque (which is not unusual).
Test completed with in this case, DS chain stay rub (you can tape up the stay if you wish). We really need Robert Förstemann on this board to run the test. |
The one's that came stock with my bike weren't long enough so I got my longer ones at the hardware store. It doesn't have the knob, but I basically made my own by using a couple of nuts. I used to think they were unnecessary, but it really makes adjusting the chain tension quick and easy so I've grown to really like them.
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Originally Posted by CliffordK
(Post 22104024)
That makes some sense to prevent wheel slippage. However, I have never had the NDS slip (10-speed bikes), so is there any reason to have the screw on the left other than symmetry?
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Use the screws. Your track ends and axle nuts will last longer.
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Originally Posted by Baby Puke
(Post 22108491)
Use the screws. Your track ends and axle nuts will last longer.
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