Very good! So, you've got a friend with an old Sports hanging around taking up valuable space in his garage? :)
Don't forget to post pics of your project. we love pics here

Same guy with the Huffy also has this Raleigh around the $100 point. 1968 Raleigh Sport with SA 3-speed. Also just told him I'd be willing to go up to ~$200 for the right bike, so I'll see what else he has. Either way, going on Sunday to see what he's got, sounds like he's got tons of bikes!

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=461006

The wheel seems the same size, easier to find than 333 parts, plus I would get to practice overhauling an AW that wasn't already attached to a bike I wanted to ride. This hub doesn't even have the shifter rod and seems really complicated to overhaul. A fleabay search makes it seem expensive and difficult to find stuff.

I think you'd be happier with that Sports!

I've run across a few of these gold Raleighs over the years and they have been kind of a mystery to me. They seem have a different parts spec compared to a "traditional" Sports. The most obvious being the chainguard, saddle, rims, and of course the color. Was this a special model?
I sold a gold ladies bike like this for $100 last year. The guy who bought it couldn't get his wallet out fast enough. What did he know that I didn't? ;)

My daughter-in-law has a women's Raleigh LTD in that color and chain guard style. Are we sure this is a "Sports?"

Up here in Maine there seems to be a lot of old 3 speeds around. Both on the road and collecting dust.
Pics to come if I can figure it out.

eBay can lead you astray. The bike recycler places I've been always seem to have extra 333 shifters, bellcranks, and hubs. Of course, an AW would be a good way to go. 333 IGH hubs were made to fit the same kind of bikes, so it may only involve lining up the right anti-rotaion washers and nuts. Get the AW! Take it apart! It's fun!

The gold ones seem to have appeared in 1968 or so, with a slightly different designation, DL22-something. It's probably somewhere in the 300+ pages of this thread.
EDIT: S-22 -- A quick search of this thread for gold popped up these posts:

http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...l#post15945878
http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...l#post10438989

Speaking ogf old 3 speeds in Maine... My wife brought this back from a friends house for me. Now that's a good marriage! Since it's an earlier bike,
I'm going to take the time to preserve useable parts. In spite of it's appearance, there are a lot
of salvageable parts that would be useful in a restoration project. Thing is, I'm a Raleigh guy and this ain't
a Raleigh. I don't know what it is. Any ideas? It has a SA licensed Brampton 3 speed hub, but a SA 3 or 4 speed window
trigger. The fulcrum clip doesn't appear to be the SA style, so I'm going to guess the hub came with the bike and the
round Brampton trigger was replaced with the SA part at some point. The trigger may be rusted beyond repair, but I'll
play with it some. You never know. The fenders and chainguard aren't damaged and only lightly rusted. Even the frame
is in reasonable condition. The brake levers and crank assembly look like they will turn out well too. The reflector
is in surprisingly good condition. There are no remaining traces of decals and no outline of the missing badge on the head tube.
Badge mounting holes are in the 12:00 and 6:00 positions. Does anybody recognize this bike? That chainguard is pretty distinctive.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=461209http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=461210http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=461211http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=461212http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=461213

Toronto Vintage Bicycle Show 2014/2015
https://vimeo.com/126009934

@nelsonmilum found us a wheel with a '77 AW hub on it, and grabbed a shifter and stuff while he was there. It's a crappy department store bike we're going to fix up together. I'll post about it later. Yay! (not yay for crappy, yay for fixing)

The hub had the washers and nuts included too, so minimal hunting! Also grabbed a shifter and some cable guides since I was there. :-)

Did you drive from Winnipeg to Toronto for the wheel? If you did, you must have a serious commitment to the project.

@dweenk, fortunately there are 5 or 6 community bike shops it the area, the first one I went to had everything we needed.

Also, it would be faster, cheaper, and probably easier to drive to the Minneapolis area than to stay in Canada :) (7 Hour drive vs 21, as long as my passport is all in order.)

The post about the Toronto show was unrelated.

Yes, yes it was.

OMG, back when i got my first SA hub i asked what weight oil and everyone said 30 weight ( not necessarily here ) . now i get reamed for that info and am told that its 20 weight . any definitive answer ??? or is everyone right ??

From a 1970s Raleigh Bicycle Owner's Manual: Guide to Maintenance: "The ideal rule for lubrication should be two or three drops of oil every month, which will maintain the hub in first class running order. USE ONLY STURMEY-ARCHER OIL (OR SAE 20 GRADE). DO NOT use thick oil or grease."

And from a 1947 version: "About quarter to half teaspoonful of oil once a fortnight is correct, rather more being required if he mileage covered is high. Use R.I. [Raleigh Industries] 'All-purpose' Oil. If this is not available a good quality thin machine oil may be used. Never use thick oil or grease, as either will cause the pawls to stick."

I find it to be a universal truth - no matter what you are interested in (cars, motorcycles, air tools, lathes, guns, hedgehogs) there will be an internet forum where people will go completely sideways about an oil thread. (well, maybe not the hedgehogs). No definitive answer....for this thread, to paraphrase the Harry Hurt study on the use of motorcycle helmets - the difference between no helmet and *any* helmet is far greater than the difference between a cheap helmet and the *best* helmet......substitute oil for helmet. If an AW gums up, open 'er up and clean 'er. Just make sure you put oil in at some point....

my point being there are no seals in the hub so it meant to exit the hub eventually ... so 30 or 20 weight , its leaking out .. they suggest 2 to 3 drops so it ain't going to make that much difference . the only thing that makes oil sludge is heat . there should be no heat in the hub so why sludge . i could see where a very thick oil would cause motion problems in the hub , but were talking gear lube thickness . its a bicycle not a Volkswagon ..

I've seen both 20 weight and 30 weight, in varying amounts. Don't know that it matters, honestly.
Small amount as needed is fine. If you put fresh grease (the tan stuff) in the seals around the cones, it should keep much of it from leaking out.

Amen.

These oil threads lately are making me nuts. Just use something.

As tiring as this subject is, there's still one point nobody has made. It's whole notion of the oil filler cap.
They used to put these on the bottom brackets too. I prefer teardown, cleaning and re-greasing hubs.
I apply a light coat of heavy oil as I reassemble the hub and in 30 years, have never had a problem with the pawls sticking.
I don't use the oil filler cap. Don't use the one in the bottom bracket either, but that's just me.
Taking bicycles apart is something I do for relaxation. It's a hobby for me. Using the oil fillers is perfectly fine
for those who want to spend more time riding and less time wrenching. It's all good.

I swapped the rear end out of this Supercycle 333 with a SA hub. Worked fine
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=461661

But you had to change the shifter, right?