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Originally Posted by carleton
(Post 18103182)
It depends.
You know as well as I do that this is not a "small" track question :D It also depends on if you want a real answer to use as input for your decision or if you just want us to confirm what you've already decided to do. I want to hear a real answer to use for my decision, because i'm planning to purchase a new track bike next year race lol |
Originally Posted by gycho77
(Post 18102740)
Custom geometry steel or titanium bike vs. mid-range carbon bike
I think fitting is more important than weight. Am I correct? Also are titanium frames too flexible for track races? I found one Russian titanium bike company called Triton They make amazing bikes without asking for a lot of money. Also if I choose to get a custom bike, is it better to meet the frame builder and talk about geometry? Adult Programs (Ages 19+) - Valley Preferred Cycling Center |
Originally Posted by 700wheel
(Post 18103238)
Take a trip to T-Town and take a class - that should answer many of your questions
Adult Programs (Ages 19+) - Valley Preferred Cycling Center I should wait for next year |
Originally Posted by gycho77
(Post 18103194)
I want to hear a real answer to use for my decision, because i'm planning to purchase a new track bike next year race lol
Having an exotic bike won't buy you any speed. In fact, it may buy you headaches. You shouldn't buy a bike without knowing how it will fit. I'd suggest going to a local bike shop if possible and sitting on a few to get a feel. Bikes come in 2cm increments for a reason. 2cm can be a noticeable difference. You shouldn't buy sight-unseen unless you know what you are doing. If you race for a few years, you'll likely trade up, down, and laterally your bikes. Custom geometry doesn't really buy you much. Just get one with a standard track geo (not a street or road geometry). Yes, fit trumps weight every time. It's easier for you to lose 2 lbs than it is to make an ill-fitting frame fit better :D "are titanium frames too flexible...?" The better question is, "Are you strong enough to flex Titanium?" Also if I choose to get a custom bike, is it better to meet the frame builder and talk about geometry? A lot of "custom" frames are simply frames with the same geometry that they make for everyone else and you get to pick (1 of 5 colors) for your paint job. That's your "custom" bike :D But, if you can meet in person and have a bike fitting session with the builder and he make the fit bike confom to your body, yes, that would be best. |
Originally Posted by carleton
(Post 18103308)
We mention a lot of great bikes that are easy to get in this thread: http://www.bikeforums.net/track-cycl...ete-bikes.html
Having an exotic bike won't buy you any speed. In fact, it may buy you headaches. You shouldn't buy a bike without knowing how it will fit. I'd suggest going to a local bike shop if possible and sitting on a few to get a feel. Bikes come in 2cm increments for a reason. 2cm can be a noticeable difference. You shouldn't buy sight-unseen unless you know what you are doing. If you race for a few years, you'll likely trade up, down, and laterally your bikes. Custom geometry doesn't really buy you much. Just get one with a standard track geo (not a street or road geometry). Yes, fit trumps weight every time. It's easier for you to lose 2 lbs than it is to make an ill-fitting frame fit better :D "are titanium frames too flexible...?" The better question is, "Are you strong enough to flex Titanium?" You don't have to meet in person, but a conversation should be had. You should also ask for geo chart of your frame. You should go into the conversation informed and with an idea of what you want. Otherwise, he/she may simply tell you what they are going to do...that may not be very custom. A lot of "custom" frames are simply frames with the same geometry that they make for everyone else and you get to pick (1 of 5 colors) for your paint job. That's your "custom" bike :D But, if you can meet in person and have a bike fitting session with the builder and he make the fit bike confom to your body, yes, that would be best. You helped me a lot. |
So I recently hit 140 cadence for the first time at T-Town during a race, and I did it twice. Should I look into moving to a bigger gear? Currently pushing 47x14.
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Try it and see. If you have a 49 or 50 maybe run that one time. Its an outdoor track so lots of variables, there's probably not 1 gear for all situations there.
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Originally Posted by WhatsYoCadence
(Post 18125292)
So I recently hit 140 cadence for the first time at T-Town during a race, and I did it twice. Should I look into moving to a bigger gear? Currently pushing 47x14.
As far as deciding what gear to use, well, that's a complicated question. Here's what I take into consideration when I make a gear selection: The race category: how fast is the race going to be? The field: how big is the field going to be? how fast is the field going to be? how much shelter will there be? Is the field going to race steady, or jumpy? The track: is the surface and geometry fast or slow? Me: am I good at pushing bigger gears or smaller ones? Am I a sprinter, a pursuiter, or something else? The race: how long is it? how many accelerations can i expect? are there sprints for points or primes? My strategy: Am i trying to get away and stay away, am i sprinting, or am i going with a bunch of attacks? So, it definitely ought to take into consideration a lot more than just what cadence you hit previously! |
Originally Posted by WhatsYoCadence
(Post 18125292)
So I recently hit 140 cadence for the first time at T-Town during a race, and I did it twice. Should I look into moving to a bigger gear? Currently pushing 47x14.
|
Originally Posted by gycho77
(Post 18102740)
Custom geometry steel or titanium bike vs. mid-range carbon bike
I think fitting is more important than weight. Am I correct? Also are titanium frames too flexible for track races? I found one Russian titanium bike company called Triton They make amazing bikes without asking for a lot of money. Also if I choose to get a custom bike, is it better to meet the frame builder and talk about geometry? All frame materials whether it be aluminum, steel, carbon, or ti can be manipulated by a skilled builder to create whatever ride characteristics you want from the bike. As a 6'4" 220lb rider, I ride a custom steel frame. I made it very clear to the builder that stiffness was a top priority and that sacrificing weight for that characteristic was not a concern. He made it happen. On the other hand, he has built frames who builds go under the 15lb mark without too much effort. He claims I would break a frame built with the same tubing. haha |
Originally Posted by theblackbullet
(Post 18126999)
As a 6'4" 220lb rider, I ride a custom steel frame. I made it very clear to the builder that stiffness was a top priority and that sacrificing weight for that characteristic was not a concern. He made it happen.
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Originally Posted by WhatsYoCadence
(Post 18128417)
Which of your bikes is the custom steel one?
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Originally Posted by theblackbullet
(Post 18132179)
I have a Snyder Cycles track frame.
I customized to geometry some to match some of the super bikes that are out there. I like to think that my bike is a steel version of a LOOK 496...with a really long top tube :D Here's my bike: 61cm, steel and 17lbs with race wheels. As stiff as my Tiemeyers, LOOK 496, Felt TK1, or Dolan DF3. https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8824/...59b4483b_b.jpg More info. |
Any accomplished rider will tell you that: Fit trumps materials every time.
I had people tell me that...I did not believe them. I had to have the hot bikes. I bought and traded my way up the ladder of hotness. - Planet X - Tiemeyer (custom) - Felt TK1 - Tiemeyer (2nd custom, still have this.) - Dolan DF3 - LOOK 496 - Snyder (custom, still have this) Learn from my foolish spending: Fit trumps materials every time. There are differences in materials. But, you can have a frame that does what you need made from carbon, aluminum, or steel. Craftsmanship is much more of a factor than the name of the material. My Planet X (carbon) was noodly compared the the other frames (carbon, AL, steel). But just because it was noodly for me (a huge as dude), it may be perfect for a normal sized human :D Don't get hung up on the material. Pay more attention to the craftsmanship and measurements. |
Have y'all seen MarkWW's Swan? That bike is a stunner.
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Originally Posted by WhatsYoCadence
(Post 18133193)
Have y'all seen MarkWW's Swan? That bike is a stunner.
so hottt!!! I think the first time I saw it, it had some ballin' ass tire covers on. Then they came off to expose the perfect wheelset for that bike. That bike really fires on all cylinders in the looks department. |
mark's Swan is the nicest bike I've seen, I think. Every detail is perfect.
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Originally Posted by 700wheel
(Post 18102601)
At each stage finish of he US Pro Challenge stage race this week the Sierra Nevada Brewing Company had a roller race competition (best time each day for 250m). Although the bike set up was terrible (no seat height adjustment, freewheel, low gear, platform peddles) the computer software looked great. Where can I buy such a set-up (software and associated speed measurement equipment)?
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I recently did my first indoor track session on Manchester velodrome (250m) and struggled to get up to the top of the banking. I was using 49x15 gearing, which in hindsight may have been a bit big (I'm used to a big concrete 400m track)
I've another session coming up indoors- would it be better to lower the gearing a bit to get better around the top, say a 45x15? (I've a 45, 49 & 50 tooth chainring and a 15 &16 cog) |
49x15 is an 88" gear. Of the combinations you have, the next smaller are an 84" (50x16), an 82" (49x16), before going all the way down to 45x15 (81").
What exactly was your struggle to get to the top of the banking? And what were you doing up there? |
It felt I was putting in a lot of effort in the straight just to stay on say the blue line on the corners. I could do a few laps, then my legs would be heavy.
I suppose the true question I'm asking is "would it be better to use a lower gear combination with a higher cadence?" I wouldn't be adverse to buying some other chainring and cogs either if necessary You have to be able to ride on all parts of the track to start the accreditation process |
Originally Posted by MrMinty
(Post 18138404)
It felt I was putting in a lot of effort in the straight just to stay on say the blue line on the corners. I could do a few laps, then my legs would be heavy.
I suppose the true question I'm asking is "would it be better to use a lower gear combination with a higher cadence?" I wouldn't be adverse to buying some other chainring and cogs either if necessary You have to be able to ride on all parts of the track to start the accreditation process Try the 49 x 16 and see if that helps. You said your legs get heavy - what other cycling do you do other than track? |
In last 2 weeks before main sprint event of year do people usually just do explosive plyo style exercises in gym or continue with strength/power , I've found all year I'm hitting my best power figures in days immediately after lifting heavy , I would've always used plyos but am debating continuing with lifting
thanks in advance |
Originally Posted by Jcaf_1
(Post 18140299)
In last 2 weeks before main sprint event of year do people usually just do explosive plyo style exercises in gym or continue with strength/power , I've found all year I'm hitting my best power figures in days immediately after lifting heavy , I would've always used plyos but am debating continuing with lifting
thanks in advance Your punctuation ruins your post. Did you ask a question? We are here to help. But I just don't understand what you wrote. |
In last 2 weeks before main sprint event of year do people usually just do explosive plyo style exercises in gym or continue with strength/power ?
I'm wondering if I should stop my weights for last 2 weeks before nationals ? If I am stopping weights should I continue plyometric excercises ? |
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