I've randomly stumbled across this pic. The frame is apparently the new Japan's national team secret weapon, but what about the bars? Haven't seen anything like this. Any ideas what can they be and if they're available to public?

Arghh, still not allowed to insert images.... here it is: imgur com/a/LHAGln8

Purely from a stiffness and arm clearance point of view they seem the perfect solution for on the track....if you have the $$ to not care about needing to adjust stem lengths, widths and drops without replacing the whole thing :)

Why I do not see low profile bike frame being used in sprint racing in recent years? Low profile is cool looking:roflmao:

I'm having some issues on my trainer. I've started the Up! Up! Up! program and was doing the PG calibration session and the resistance felt super easy. I mean I was hitting 170+ cadence in the 50-11 on max resistance. It kinda threw off the intent of the ergo session.

I have a 2014ish Elite wheel-on trainer. Previously I have used my track bike on trainer for TT training and the only issue I had was some wheel slipping. I added some grip tape to the roller which eliminated the slipping but the resistance was fine.. My only idea to why the resistance is so easy is that I switched from a Continental trainer tire to the Vittoria one.

I have a question about Flying 200 windups:

I returned for my first sprint event last week after injuring myself in January. I noticed that many of the riders taking part were heading to the rail after the first half lap and staying there for the entire wind up, rather than corkscrewing up the track as I was taught by coaches ( and also how its shown on Up!Up!Up! Save energy ? Up! Up! Up! An introduction to track sprint cycling)

I thought that the corkscrew windup was supposedly the best way to get up to speed without wasting energy etc, but many of the fastest riders were doing the "straight to the top" approach and are much more experienced than I am.

Is there a reason why this is now more popular - is there a benefit compared to the Up!Up!Up! line?

( this was on the Lee Valley indoor 250m velodrome if that makes a difference)

The trend at the top level now is to have your holder basically push you up to the rail and give you a gargantuan push to get you going. You can see all kinds of photos of this on Instagram, the coaches seem to be having a contest who can give the most outrageous running push. I'm not getting that in my races, so I still do the corkscrew.

Thats definitely an interesting take on it. I wish I had a pusher like that! None of these riders had a push though - we all left from the inner rail under our own steam, no pusher available.

It just seems to me that to get up to speed to comfortably / safely ride round the top of the track in the corners on a big gear you need to put a big initial effort in for that first half lap. Corkscrew seems more efficient but the fast boys all went to the top straight away......maybe they just have enough fitness/energy to waste haha

Double post

Quick questions. I'm a bit anxious about not being able to buy a wheel.

Flat disc (Zipp 900 series) okay? It's old, 8 or 10 years old. Track side looks unused. I'd have to source a track conversion kit. Figure $400 wheel, $200 kit. Focus on 500m and sprint/mass start stuff. I'm no time trialer.

Or buy a new Corima for about $1000-1100? Lenticular, no conversion kit necessary.

For outdoor use I have two TriSpokes for front wheels. If things get serious I'd get a second disc, but for now my budget is basics - rear wheel, frame, SRM trade in?, and TT/drop bars.

Unfortunately my Surly fix kit only works on 105/Ult freehubs, not the DA freehub in my rear TriSpoke, else that would be a neat rear wheel.

I'm splitting hairs with wheels here but I have two goals - first, to have a bike that I'm used to by June 2020. Second, to not buy equipment all over again, so buying one wheel now and a different, "better" wheel next year.

I'm on the fence with the Dixie Flyer. I think the top tube will be high (58 size has a 52 c-t ST - it's a full 2 cm higher than a 50 cm c-t, and I was skimming the 50 TT as it was). Other than possibly falling off my bike because the track has a "downhill side" (put left foot down, hit TT, etc), the bike should fit well. 12.5 HT (should be effectively shorter than my 12 cm due to raised BB), 58/74 TT (about 1 cm longer than my 56.5/75.5). Seems to be a good frame all around, within my price range, and the guy there Bobby seems just as enthusiastic about stuff as I am.

Spend the extra beans and get the Corima. The 900 track conversion axle is near unobtainium and anyhow the hub axle on these is not very robust in my experience. I finally got rid of mine but was replacing bearings often, and had a set blow up on me during a race two years ago. Go with the dedicated track wheel.

Thx for tip, makes sense.

As BP said, the conversion kit for old Zipp discs is incredibly difficult to find. If you want to go old Zipp 900 route, I'd suggest sourcing the conversion kit first, then find the wheel. Or, you can look at an older Zipp or Mavic track disc. Lots of people still run those. Just make sure they aren't dinged. I've been told that the aerodynamic differences between the best and worst rear discs isn't that big.

It's impossible to find.

I committed to buying a 900 disc from a VP at SRAM/Zipp (he posted to slowtwitch) on the condition that he find me a track axle. I paypal'd him the money and everything. He was like, "Sure. I'll pick one up at work tomorrow..." He couldn't find one.

If he can't find one, no one can.

I also contacted Rich at Wheelbuilder.com who has some really hard to find stuff (LOOK 496 seatposts and stems), but no 900 track axle.

I can make 900 track axles. I have an original one on my disc to work off of and a machine shop in my garage. I'm supposed to do one for a friend soon... making more than one at a time is certainly more efficient time wise if anyone is interested.

I'm thinking you could probably make a dozen and sell them all at some good coin, to happy buyers.

That wheel sold pretty quickly so I'm in a holding pattern again.

My main purchases will be frame, bar (drop and TT), stem to fit bar(s), rear wheel. I think I'll do an SRM upgrade (I have a third wired SRM that is currently unused). Then get/build a rear training wheel for the trainer and actual riding.

If you can make the heat treated locknuts that always crack on them, I know a few guys looking.

Those are great discs that are easy to find for cheap. It's "old tech" that still fast.

Yup.

Between the lack of inventory of track axles and the broken long locknut/spacers, the 900 has fallen out of use.

I know Zipp can't support every product indefinitely, but I wonder why they didn't keep these small parts on hand after the life of the product.

The fatal flaw of that locknut was that it was thin-walled and easily cracked when someone like me was gorilla-fisted with it. You can simply make it beefier. Who cares if it doesn't look great or be as light. It works.

Hell, while you are at it, make a front axle for the 900 as well. Those would sell like hotcakes.

Everyone in their right mind who owns a 900 disc in their right mind would buy one.

Flawed product in a couple of ways, lack of factory support makes it worse. Avoid if you can. I spent waaaaaayy too much time fettling mine. Corima/Mavic/Campy/FFWD, the new Walker Bros stuff probably all way less hassle.

Incidentally the Campy disc I have now is noticeably stuffer laterally than the 900 was.

Also worth mentioning RENN makes a flat disc (like the 900) that isn't terribly expensive. Most folks don't realize they offer a track option as they primarily make Tri stuff.
Some of the best customer service out there as well.

I asked them (him). No longer does track stuff, although the option is still in their drop down menu.

ahh darn :( I guess they didn't sell (m)any. Too bad, always had good luck with Renn

Great theme!

What do you all put for grip on your aero bars (handlebar tape, grip tape, hockey tape) and why?

I just purchased my first set of aero bars.