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1987 Team Miyata - Dura-Ace build up
It is time to let my 1987 Team Miyata find a new home, where she can be enjoyed properly. What say the community on a fair price?
Frameset was purchased from another BF member 4 years ago, and built up with Dura-Ace 74xx components. I would call the frameset a rider quality, 10’ bike (as in it looks great from 10’ away – it has been heavily retouched); I tried to capture the heaviest of the retouched areas. The bike was recently serviced and had the bars rewrapped with new tape. This is officially a 58cm frame, but measures out as a 57cm frame: Seat tube 57cm c-c Top tube 55cm c-c Head tube 10cm c-c Groupset specs: Dura Ace 7400 crankset (170.0mm, 52/42T), bottom bracket, front derailleur, brakes Dura-Ace 7401 rear derailleur, hubs (32 hole), 8sp shifters, 8sp 12-21t cassette Dura-Ace fluted seatpost (not sure which generation, and the set screw is broken off) Cinelli 1A stem (110mm) and Giro d’Italia handlebars (42cm) wrapped with Newbaum’s cotton bar tape Tange headset H+Sons TB-14 rims and Vittoria Corsa 700x23 tires MKS Sylvan road pedals, MKS toe clips, nylon straps https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b4e174564c.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0ea0502218.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e1fc67fe94.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...9e12ff5e38.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...023c5326d3.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...248aca6394.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e4670c4fd4.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...8ec0c036b8.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d31b6fafdf.jpg |
There is one of these in the C&V Sales forum right now. Beautiful bike that is listed at $700. Lots of compliments but no transaction.
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...condition.html Then there is the Pro Miyata that’s been on my local FBM for a year. I’ve read the Team and Pro are the same level in the Miyata hierarchy. Another member can probably elaborate on this. This one is clean but a mixed bag of parts. $450 hasn’t moved it. I’ve been pondering a $350 offer but just don’t really need it. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...tory_type=post Hope this helps you narrow in on what to list yours at. |
The C+V market isn't a good comp...unless bikes are at drastic price reduction, they won't sell there. A lot will depend on your market; I'd be able to sell that for $700 in mine I think. Ebay - I'd probably ask 800, accept 700. Gorgeous bike - I'd have no problem paying $500.
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May be over $1000 on that auction site. Top two sales were $1300 and $1200 in the last year. Yours presents well, I do wish it had 7400 pedals, but that is a very minor pick.
Do consider the fees if you sell on ebay: fees on final value, fees on shipping charge, and that pesky 1099 next January. And then you have to pack and ship at a reasonable cost. Some of us have two choices: sell locally at a STEEP discount, or sell on ebay. My general rule is > 50%. If I can get anything over 50% of ebay price locally, I'm going local. |
Thanks everyone for the feedback! I had some thoughts on pricing in my head, but wasn't sure if I was aiming too high; it looks like my thoughts are in line with yours
I am going to try and sell locally first, and if it doesn't move then will look into selling online... |
Just a minor thing the rear wheel is too for forward in the dropouts it should be moved back a bit so the skewer is centered over the DR bolt. Other than that it looks great I would say $700-800 as is local is possible.
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I'd try to go local here - and here's why...
The bike photos present really well, and no matter how much you point out the flaws, or try and show the touch ups, it may create unrealistic expectations...and on eBay, with the wrong buyer, that could mean a refund and eating shipping. I use a similar approach to that used by wrk - if the bike isn't going to sell for 400 more on the bay than locally, it's a local sale. I'd rather sell a bike at 1000 locally than 1400 ebay. The key to local sales is PATIENCE (humming). I can normally get pretty close to ebay (minus fees) locally, it just takes a long time. On the higher priced stuff with more limited markets, it's usually on ebay. The tax part of ebay is really interesting to me as a tax nerd. There are a few ways bike sales could be handled, depending on the fact pattern of the seller... A for profit business. A hobby business. Capital gains sale. Collector capital gains sale. Many will fall under personal use property. By strict IRS definitions, most of us are either hobby business or collector capital gains, both of which are tax disadvantaged. I use a mix of collector cap gains and cap gains on sales, depending on the bike/parts and my intentions for it when I bought it. Examples: Business. You buy bikes with the intent of purchasing and selling for profit. You keep records of transactions. Hobby business. You buy and sell bikes and parts occasionally as part of your cycling hobby. The purchase and sales are more connected to your riding. It's cost recovery rather than profit (one bike funds another bike). Investment. You purchase a bike with the intent of selling it for more money down the road, and you expect its value to appreciate. It's not hung on a wall, or ridden. Collector. You like cool old bikes. Maybe you ride them occasionally. They are displayed. You bought the bike because it was cool more than wanting to sell it at a profit later. Personal use property. You bought a bike to ride. There is a lot of grey in the above. The question isn't what you think, but what the IRS would think, and what the scope of the decision is. When in doubt, ask an accountant. Obviously the risk of getting this wrong depends largely on how much you're selling, and its percentage of your overall income. |
Originally Posted by KonAaron Snake
(Post 22646663)
I'd try to go local here - and here's why...
The bike photos present really well, and no matter how much you point out the flaws, or try and show the touch ups, it may create unrealistic expectations...and on eBay, with the wrong buyer, that could mean a refund and eating shipping. I use a similar approach to that used by wrk - if the bike isn't going to sell for 400 more on the bay than locally, it's a local sale. I'd rather sell a bike at 1000 locally than 1400 ebay. The key to local sales is PATIENCE (humming). I can normally get pretty close to ebay (minus fees) locally, it just takes a long time. On the higher priced stuff with more limited markets, it's usually on ebay. The tax part of ebay is really interesting to me as a tax nerd. There are a few ways bike sales could be handled, depending on the fact pattern of the seller... A for profit business. A hobby business. Capital gains sale. Collector capital gains sale. Some may even fall under home use goods. By strict IRS definitions, most of us are either hobby business or collector capital gains, both of which are tax disadvantaged. I use a mix of collector cap gains and cap gains on sales, depending on the bike/parts and my intentions for it when I bought it. Examples: Business. You buy bikes with the intent of purchasing and selling for profit. You keep records of transactions. Hobby business. You buy and sell bikes and parts occasionally as part of your cycling hobby. The purchase and sales are more connected to your riding. It's cost recovery rather than profit (one bike funds another bike). Investment. You purchase a bike with the intent of selling it for more money down the road, and you expect its value to appreciate. It's not hung on a wall, or ridden. Collector. You like cool old bikes. Maybe you ride them occasionally. They are displayed. You bought the bike because it was cool more than wanting to sell it at a profit later. Home use. You bought a bike to ride. There is a lot of grey in the above. The question isn't what you think, but what the IRS would think, and what the scope of the decision is. When in doubt, ask an accountant. Obviously the risk of getting this wrong depends largely on how much you're selling, and its percentage of your overall income. I buy bikes to ride, and generally do not sell them unless 1 of 2 things happens: - I run out of space (10 bikes, plus related parts, in a 1 bedroom apartment makes for a "cozy" arrangement) - I don't ride any one bike in over a year (based on gut feel). This sale is being prompted primarily by it not being ridden, secondarily by space. I may not ride all of the bikes frequently but I also do not have them hanging on my walls as show pieces, so I guess you could say I'm somewhere between a collector and home use. But as you say, it's not what I think... |
Originally Posted by sallen73
(Post 22646784)
Your point re: eBay sellers is exactly why that is a last resort for me, almost a non-starter.
I buy bikes to ride, and generally do not sell them unless 1 of 2 things happens: - I run out of space (10 bikes, plus related parts, in a 1 bedroom apartment makes for a "cozy" arrangement) - I don't ride any one bike in over a year (based on gut feel). This sale is being prompted primarily by it not being ridden, secondarily by space. I may not ride all of the bikes frequently but I also do not have them hanging on my walls as show pieces, so I guess you could say I'm somewhere between a collector and home use. But as you say, it's not what I think... It goes without saying that you still have a reporting requirement on sales whether it's on ebay or elsewhere...the only difference is that if it's through eBay, and they send a 1099 - the IRS has the info, and if it's not on your return, you get a matching notice. |
Love the paint scheme -- beautiful bike !
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We all love this bike but the realities of selling a high end bike in a local market prevail. Saw it on CL where it’s been for 9 days at $800. Maybe there are a lot of inquiries and it will sell any day now. Or maybe it will need to be sub 6 to move locally at this time of year. Hopefully it will find a new home at a respectable price.
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Originally Posted by plonz
(Post 22666866)
We all love this bike but the realities of selling a high end bike in a local market prevail. Saw it on CL where it’s been for 9 days at $800. Maybe there are a lot of inquiries and it will sell any day now. Or maybe it will need to be sub 6 to move locally at this time of year. Hopefully it will find a new home at a respectable price.
The one that looks like a steal is a Miyata Triple Cross that looks to be in great condition and listed for only $75.00. If it were local, it wouldn't be listed still...:) |
Originally Posted by wrk101
(Post 22644226)
May be over $1000 on that auction site. Top two sales were $1300 and $1200 in the last year. Yours presents well, I do wish it had 7400 pedals, but that is a very minor pick.
Do consider the fees if you sell on ebay: fees on final value, fees on shipping charge, and that pesky 1099 next January. And then you have to pack and ship at a reasonable cost. Some of us have two choices: sell locally at a STEEP discount, or sell on ebay. My general rule is > 50%. If I can get anything over 50% of ebay price locally, I'm going local. |
Originally Posted by plonz
(Post 22666866)
We all love this bike but the realities of selling a high end bike in a local market prevail. Saw it on CL where it’s been for 9 days at $800. Maybe there are a lot of inquiries and it will sell any day now. Or maybe it will need to be sub 6 to move locally at this time of year. Hopefully it will find a new home at a respectable price.
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Originally Posted by bikemig
(Post 22666951)
All good points. I've been thinking of that pesky 1099 as well which is a pain especially for stuff you picked up a while ago and have no records of what you paid for.
Also, even if you sell a bike here (with shipping) well under $600, but you sell other items over the calendar year, if the total is $600 or higher, you will get a 1099. Its pretty easy to hit that level. |
My experience with the Chicago market is that it's very difficult to break the $600 mark with vintage steel unless it's Italian. Yours is a beautiful example, though. Been watching it since you posted it locally. Good luck with the sale.
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