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-   -   Addiction 2022.2 (https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=1249389)

genejockey 05-04-22 09:06 PM


Originally Posted by bampilot06 (Post 22495495)
carbon seat post just sounds like a bad idea.


my madone has a carbon mast. Not the samething.

The Canyon has a carbon post. Given it's rated for heavier than I am, I don't worry too much about it.

genejockey 05-04-22 09:10 PM


Originally Posted by big john (Post 22495625)
Seems like it would work if the rotor is the same diameter and position.

Position should be the same, but fractions of millimeters count here. If you want to test them, I'd go ahead and center the calipers on them, using the business card trick, and then see if you still get rub.

rjones28 05-04-22 09:11 PM


Originally Posted by Mojo31 (Post 22495462)

Do I spy a 5 speed?

rjones28 05-04-22 09:41 PM


Originally Posted by LAJ (Post 22495618)
I've got carbon posts and carbon bars. None of them were purchased without provenance.

Same

WhyFi 05-04-22 10:06 PM


Originally Posted by bampilot06 (Post 22495440)
When carbon bars break do you get any kind of warning? A high pitch cracking noise? increase flex? Is it usually during sprints or going down hill or running into the back of a car? Asking for a friend.

Does your friend have hills or a sprint that might be cause of concern?

:innocent:


:roflmao2:

Velo Vol 05-04-22 10:58 PM


Originally Posted by jwr0201 (Post 22495634)
Man - now I know why I live in Florida!

It's a mystery why anyone lives there.

Originally Posted by rjones28 (Post 22495635)

Childhood favourite?

LesterOfPuppets 05-05-22 01:04 AM

Cinque.

Wordle 320 5/6

⬛🟨⬛🟨⬛
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🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩

ls01 05-05-22 02:43 AM


Originally Posted by rjones28 (Post 22495615)
I used standard Jagwire 5mm brake housing. I don't think that caliper has any special needs.

Superfantastic! Then I can use the Sram housings that came with the shifters. That noncompresable shiz is pricey

phrantic09 05-05-22 03:32 AM


Originally Posted by genejockey (Post 22495644)
The Canyon has a carbon post. Given it's rated for heavier than I am, I don't worry too much about it.

Never worried about a carbon post


Originally Posted by big john (Post 22495625)
Seems like it would work if the rotor is the same diameter and position.

Iíd try it both ways, it sounds to me like youíre describing wheel flex thatís making the rotor ping

phrantic09 05-05-22 03:33 AM

Wordle 320 3/6

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on a roll the last couple of days

indyfabz 05-05-22 03:57 AM

I choose to blame all of you.

Wordle 320 X/6

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phrantic09 05-05-22 05:30 AM

This weekendís ďraceĒ

https://www.strava.com/routes/2954800741709751144

This is only about 20 miles of dirt thatís pretty well groomed. All of the major climbs are dirt which add some challenge. One of them last year I spun out and had to get off and walk, hopefully wider tires and better gearing will fix that. Believe it hits ~18% in a few places. Last year was 28s with 36/30 as lowest gear and this year will be 32s with 31/34.

pretty excited and have no real expectations, just do it for fun.

Trsnrtr 05-05-22 05:37 AM


Originally Posted by gnome (Post 22495567)
console yourself that the e-type will be much, much higher maintenance than your wife.

And, thatís within the first 6 months.

LAJ 05-05-22 05:37 AM


Originally Posted by indyfabz (Post 22495787)
I choose to blame all of you.

Wordle 320 X/6

⬜⬜⬜⬜🟩
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🟨🟩⬜🟩🟩

Same.

Wordle 320 X/6

⬜⬜🟨⬜🟩
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LAJ 05-05-22 05:41 AM


Originally Posted by phrantic09 (Post 22495817)
This weekendís ďraceĒ

https://www.strava.com/routes/2954800741709751144

This is only about 20 miles of dirt thatís pretty well groomed. All of the major climbs are dirt which add some challenge. One of them last year I spun out and had to get off and walk, hopefully wider tires and better gearing will fix that. Believe it hits ~18% in a few places. Last year was 28s with 36/30 as lowest gear and this year will be 32s with 31/34.

pretty excited and have no real expectations, just do it for fun.

Whew. Punchy. Have fun!

phrantic09 05-05-22 06:27 AM


Originally Posted by LAJ (Post 22495823)
Whew. Punchy. Have fun!

Itíll be a blast, thereís awesome community support

seedsbelize2 05-05-22 06:29 AM


Originally Posted by genejockey (Post 22495649)
Position should be the same, but fractions of millimeters count here. If you want to test them, I'd go ahead and center the calipers on them, using the business card trick, and then see if you still get rub.

Here's where that 2/5 mm comes in handy.

datlas 05-05-22 06:43 AM

Time to ride. Today will explore the Blue Ridge Parkway South of Asheville.

WhyFi 05-05-22 06:50 AM


Originally Posted by bampilot06 (Post 22495451)
Iíve been talking to seattle forrest, he has a C3 with ardennes and hasnít ever had brake rub problems. So now I wonder if itís the cheaper carbon my bike is made of, or the super teams, though they seem bullet proof not sure what that says about flexís.

if I put my bontrager wheel on the cervelo to test out the wheel theory, would it matter that the rotor on the bontrager wheel is sram? I would not touch the brake. I could tell in a matter of seconds whether or not the rub was there.

If a closet door is sticking, you don't try a different door - you make sure that the hinges are tight, that the frame is plumb and that the door is square. Everything else is a shot in the dark and a waste of time when the basics haven't yet been addressed, IMO.

If there's no rub in the stand but there's rub on the road, that obviously means that there's a change in relative position between the rotor and pads. The rotor is bolted to a solid, machined hub. The hub is being held in place by a ~1/2" thick axle. The axle is fastened in to the dropouts and there's only a couple inches of carbon fork between the axle and caliper - there's virtually no room for movement if everything is secured properly. If things aren't secured properly and if things aren't quite square and true, you get problems like you're getting.

Make sure your rotor is true and properly tightened. Make sure your calipers are centered and aligned. Make sure you're consistently tightening the thru-axel. If you can't consistently tighten the TA because if its design, get a Robert axle and use a torque wrench. Done and done.

Mojo31 05-05-22 06:52 AM

Wordle 320 3/6

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MoAlpha 05-05-22 07:29 AM


Originally Posted by bampilot06 (Post 22495451)
have not had that happen yet. I had the rear wheel not what to open once in Dallas. That was a head scratcher.

I’ve been talking to seattle forrest, he has a C3 with ardennes and hasn’t ever had brake rub problems. So now I wonder if it’s the cheaper carbon my bike is made of, or the super teams, though they seem bullet proof not sure what that says about flex’s.

if I put my bontrager wheel on the cervelo to test out the wheel theory, would it matter that the rotor on the bontrager wheel is sram? I would not touch the brake. I could tell in a matter of seconds whether or not the rub was there.


Originally Posted by WhyFi (Post 22495865)
If a closet door is sticking, you don't try a different door - you make sure that the hinges are tight, that the frame is plumb and that the door is square. Everything else is a shot in the dark and a waste of time when the basics haven't yet been addressed, IMO.

If there's no rub in the stand but there's rub on the road, that obviously means that there's a change in relative position between the rotor and pads. The rotor is bolted to a solid, machined hub. The hub is being held in place by a ~1/2" thick axle. The axle is fastened in to the dropouts and there's only a couple inches of carbon fork between the axle and caliper - there's virtually no room for movement if everything is secured properly. If things aren't secured properly and if things aren't quite square and true, you get problems like you're getting.

Make sure your rotor is true and properly tightened. Make sure your calipers are centered and aligned. Make sure you're consistently tightening the thru-axel. If you can't consistently tighten the TA because if its design, get a Robert axle and use a torque wrench. Done and done.

This. There should be enough clearance in the caliper and enough range in the positioning to fix anything but bad rotor runout.

Have you taken a plastic tire lever and pressed your pistons in and then made sure they're retracting?

bampilot06 05-05-22 07:41 AM


Originally Posted by MoAlpha (Post 22495913)
This. There should be enough clearance in the caliper and enough range in the positioning to fix anything but bad rotor runout.

Have you taken a plastic tire lever and pressed your pistons in and then made sure they're retracting?


I have. The rotor has a slight bent in it. However, spinning in the bike stand with a white sheet of paper behind it there is plenty of clearance and it doesnít rub, when I ride it sitting down 75 percent of the time it doesnít rub. When I stand itís a constant rub. The skewer is as tight as I can make it.

sounding like a new axle and new rotor. Iím just super skeptical thatís going to fix the problem. And furthermore how the hell do my rotors keep getting bent?

bampilot06 05-05-22 07:49 AM


Originally Posted by datlas (Post 22495857)
Time to ride. Today will explore the Blue Ridge Parkway South of Asheville.


keep coming east. Iím on 6 hours by car.

WhyFi 05-05-22 07:53 AM


Originally Posted by bampilot06 (Post 22495921)
I have. The rotor has a slight bent in it. However, spinning in the bike stand with a white sheet of paper behind it there is plenty of clearance and it doesn’t rub, when I ride it sitting down 75 percent of the time it doesn’t rub. When I stand it’s a constant rub. The skewer is as tight as I can make it.

sounding like a new axle and new rotor. I’m just super skeptical that’s going to fix the problem. And furthermore how the hell do my rotors keep getting bent?

*Every* rotor has a bit of runout now and then. You don't need a new rotor - we've covered this. Find the "high" spot on the rotor, slip an adjustable wrench over it, give it a little tweak.

If the rotor is a Shimano IceTech, which is an steel and aluminum sandwich, it's not going to take much at all. If it's a solid steel rotor, you may need to bend it a little beyond true so that it springs back in to a more true position.

Jump to the 3min mark or so, if you're impatient -


Mojo31 05-05-22 08:05 AM


Originally Posted by rjones28 (Post 22495650)
Do I spy a 5 speed?

I'm no expert, and did not inspect the car closely, but it appears to be a Series 2 car with 5-speed conversion.

I just enjoy their beauty. I've never had the chance to drive, or even sit in, one.


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