Velognome and robertob: nice bikes! I thought velo's headlight was some kind of extra large rarity, but there it is on robertob's new ride......

Hey all, here, hopefully is a picture of my Rudge Mustang. A great little bike. SA TCW III coaster brake, from '64. Twist grip shifter that is so smooth. This bike has some sweet details, A hand lettered name on the front fender and a Montclair, NJ bike licence from '68 bolted to the rear fender. The seat post has been cut and welded to move the seat forward. I haven't run it yet, I've got lots of other bikes to work on. http://http://www.flickr.com/photos/...in/photostream
Cheers

WTF? I'll try again when Amy gets home.

Here you go:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3247/...6cd59e6cf8.jpg

You need to copy the image link, not the web link (if that makes sense!)

Thanks, I'll get the hang of this stuff afore long. Newfangled computer machines.

Also, a bit off topic, why does everyone use an alias?

Alias? Who uses an alias?

Alias? Well, I use my initials. I rather wish I had adopted an alias, though, when I joined. Would have been more fun.

Those of us who read the forums and post while at work, and who should (in theory) be working, may wish to be discrete about things that are not, strictly speaking, work.

Most ex-dictators prefer it.

Keeps the crazy stalkers or thieves from breaking into our homes to steal our sweet bikes:eek:; which we've posted pictures and inordinate amounts of information on here.:love:

What Alias? I never liked that show...

I cant stop, started with a Raleigh DL1 roadster, then got a Superbe, but I swear this is the last one. Its a 1966 RSW. Still needs a good cleaning, but i do have her running, and pretty much in order.http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=204491

I just took apart a 1953 AW Sturmey Archer hub completely, and cleaned all the bits.

I have only done one SA hub previously, and that one just far enough to do the bearings.

Now I know you really have to love English three speeds to go all the way with a Sturmey Archer hub (- that, or be crazy.)

I cleaned every little part – (there are lots of them!) and afterward struggled to remember which side was right-side-up when it came time to put it all back. :twitchy:

One hard lesson I learned is that it’s better to use caged bearings when servicing these hubs. Last time I got away with using all loose balls, but because there is enough space between the axle and the bearing race, I had a couple balls fall into the left side of the hub!

Luckily - I was able to fish them out, but I ended up reusing the old bearing cages (because the instructional You Tube video did not forewarn me.:mad:)

Next time, I’ll have spare bearings from Harris Cyclery before I even begin such a project.

Miraculously, everything went back together though, and I got the cones adjusted alright too.

Carl Brill, I dub thee "Brillopad"

Impressive bit of work Auchencrow (if that's who you really are) I've got a '48 FW hub coming my way. I'd like to completely clean and service the hub but I'm a bit intimidated.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3247/...6cd59e6cf8.jpg

HA! Gotcha that time! (I hope! LOL!)

Gee Velognome, never heard that one eight or ten million times before!

I don't ever bother taking the pawls out unless there is a problem with one of them. It's a pain to get them out and back in again without losing a spring. When the parts are really yucky I boil them in vinegar/water solution and the sticky glue oil comes right off -even around the pawls so there is no reason to take them out and it saves a bunch of time messing around with them.

I tried using loose balls on the S-A hubs and it just isn't worth it. It's not so bad on the non-drive side but in the driver it is a major PITA. I bought 8 or 10 of them the last time I made an order from Harris so now I have enough to last a little while. I know a lot of people don't bother replacing these bearings but I like to tell the people I sell my bikes to that EVERY bearing on the bike has been replaced with new and the hubs have been COMPLETELY overhauled. Using the old bearings just doesn't seem right to me although the guys at my LBS tell me they never replace them when they rebuild them unless there is an obvious issue with them as they never wear out. I just don't "roll" that way. i put in new ones. At $5 each that gets kind of pricey. One of these days i'm going to go to a bearing shop with an old set and see if they can get them for me. They are NOT the same part as a typical 1/4"x7 wheel hub bearing cage. Those are slightly smaller and will not work in the S-A hub (tried that.)

[QUOTE][/QUOTE]

So it works?

NO!! Wait.. I mean uh..What? No uh I didn't say anything.

Brilcream

Phhhht!!

Earlier this week I picked up a '69 Raleigh Sports, men's 23" frame (pics tomorrow, I promise). Interestingly, the rear AW hub is marked "69 15"! That's the second 1969 AW I've seen with a wacky month code; the other was marked "69 13"; what's with that? This bike is for a colleague who wants to start commuting a relatively short distance.

It's been a while since I completely broke down a Sports, but it was like putting on an old pair of comfortable shoes. Of course, none of the bearing surfaces had a spec of grease left, but the AW innards were in excellent shape and well oiled. The seller said he was having trouble shifting, but now that I have it all back together, it seems to be working fine (road test tomorrow). The cotters on both sides were shot, so replacement cotters, new tires, new gear cable, and new chain, and it's good to go for another 41 years.

Neal

Amesja - The main reason why I tore into it in the 1st place was so I could replace all of the bearings. Probably the darn video does not cite it as an issue, because it's one of those bike shop guys you mentioned who was calling the shots.

- Ordinarily I replace every bearing that can be replaced - including the pedals, on every bike that passes under my nose!

Anyway, I'm wiser now and I wanted to share that important detail so that other newbies can avoid the issue.

I replace the pedal bearings when they are rebuildable -otherwise I shoot heavy oil in there and hope for the best or just replace them. The only pedal I think is worthwhile putting on an old E3S is the MKS3000R which is $20. Pricey and kills the budget for one item. If I can salvage the old pedals I do -even if I can't get them apart.

Ya'all know I've got that Golden Arrow, it has a K hub, I have heard tell that they are rather fragile. I've talked with some folks about it but, I dunno, I guess if it is messed up now or I "fix" it somehow I'll just have to put on a later hub. Really I didn't look closely enough at it before I took the bike all apart, so I just have to hope. Wish me luck.