Eureka! Nishiki GRAN TOUR 15
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...45ee0043f4.jpg
(Please excuse the mess. It's Monday.) I have been searching for a nice tourer for a good long while...About 8 years now. Certainly, there have been opportunities that I passed on that would've been fine. But nothing that really met all of the requirements:
That last one, vertical dropouts, was the hardest. The bike is a tourer and it will wear fenders, but horizontal dropouts + attaining a perfect fender line is not the easiest. I've seen people use springs and other doohickeys to get the fender close to the tire but then able to shift when removing the wheel...probably not the most difficult thing to set up but I was hoping to avoid all that. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a14a4c74e9.jpg Anyways, after moving to the Bay Area I knew there would be a bevy of high quality vintage frames all around. Just a matter of keeping a watchful, if passive, eye. At first, only the Bay area was under consideration via Craigslist, but after realizing how many people only use Facebook Marketplace I gave in to trawling endlessly through Facebook's terribly organized website. Lo' and behold, did something pop up around Sacramento, not far from where I work once a week. The Nishiki Gran Tour 15 is not easy to find online. Most mentions are its slightly newer iteration, the Ultra Gran Tour. Seeminly identical, and luckily in the 1981 Nishiki Catalog (truly a dearth of catalogs compared to some other brands). The Ultra Tour 15 is "state of the art" in touring bicycles, with featherweight chrome moly double butted tubing and carefully selected touring componentry. It is not only luxurious but also affordable. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...da2792fd8d.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...f99ad5fbd5.jpg My favorite qualities? Well, as said before, the vertical dropouts are choice. As well as the non-canti brake calipers, and the huge tire-fender clearance, I've seen others run this model with 37mm tires plenty of room to spare for fenders. The Ukai 27" rims are cool, too. Nice aluminum box sections in fairly good true, but they'll need some attention and possibly a couple spokes replaced. The chrome plating is pretty sweet, too. Plans for the future...keep it as close to stock as possible for a good while. Just a good full overhaul, and probably replacing the tires with Paselas even if the guy who sold it said the tires are new. Probably handlebars, too. And, after enjoying the bike for a year or two, if it indeed IS 'the one', an oxalic acid dunk, spreading the frame to 130mm, building a custom wheelset with proper box section rims and a dynamo front hub. Changing the gearing to 48-34 in the front and 12-32 in the rear, 9 speed And that's...it. It shouldn't require anything else to be replaced, and it'll look damn near identical to its stock setup, just with better gearing and wheels. Haven't made a decision on the paint. It's pretty rough in some spots. More pics below. I'll do a proper photoshoot after taking the overhaul. Might take a month or two. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...29025a3e4e.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e3c2659348.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...cc85fc610f.jpg |
That looks like a very nice frame! Double eyelets are a definite bonus when using racks. What frame angles and fork offset?
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Sweet good find! Paint detail on forks is nice
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Originally Posted by non-fixie
(Post 23209402)
That looks like a very nice frame! Double eyelets are a definite bonus when using racks. What frame angles and fork offset?
Regarding eyelets, depending on if I really like the frame my plan in the future is to also add mid-fork eyelets, centerpull posts, seatstay rack attachment points, more bottle bosses...etc. Repaint in the same colorway, too. There's a set of decals on ebay I've got my eye on...
Originally Posted by Velosophy
(Post 23209502)
Sweet good find! Paint detail on forks is nice
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Very nice. Does it really need an oxalic bath? I am not even seeing any rust.
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Originally Posted by Piff
(Post 23209818)
Another interesting detail is that the dork disc passed the magnet test-- it's aluminum!
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I like the semi vertical dropouts that are in alignment with seat tube makes for some really nice clean lines,
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Good looking bike. Bikes that came stock with 27 inch wheels and center pull brakes with reasonable reach tend to have good clearance for tires and fenders. I have a 70s era Raleigh Gran Sport and Motobecane Grand Record; both can take tires with reasonable volume and fenders but neither has vertical drop outs.
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Originally Posted by icemilkcoffee
(Post 23209988)
Very nice. Does it really need an oxalic bath? I am not even seeing any rust.
Originally Posted by non-fixie
(Post 23209989)
There are different levels of dorkiness?
Using a dork disc because it came on a bike >>> Buying a dork disc to put on a race bike >>> Finding it curious that a disc is aluminum >>> Being excited that a disc is aluminum and thinking of ways to fit it onto a freehub.
Originally Posted by bikemig
(Post 23210072)
Good looking bike. Bikes that came stock with 27 inch wheels and center pull brakes with reasonable reach tend to have good clearance for tires and fenders. I have a 70s era Raleigh Gran Sport and Motobecane Grand Record; both can take tires with reasonable volume and fenders but neither has vertical drop outs.
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Okay, for the life of me I cannot figure out how to remove this shifter clamp. Suntour LD-1600, if I'm not mistaken. https://www.velobase.com/ViewCompone...a162d&Enum=104
Any advice? https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...26aa5eca63.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d1db09e906.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...761456ca41.jpg |
Originally Posted by Piff
(Post 23219090)
Okay, for the life of me I cannot figure out how to remove this shifter clamp. Suntour LD-1600, if I'm not mistaken. https://www.velobase.com/ViewCompone...a162d&Enum=104
Any advice? These clamps tend to be sticky- after backing it off a turn or two, tap it lightly to get it loose from the frame. To get it off the frame, you’ll need to back it almost all the way off and then disengage the block from the straps of the clamp. Reassembly is the opposite, and keeping the ends of the straps engaged with the block while tightening everything is a trick. I’d make sure the threads are good, clean, and lubed before trying to reassemble everything. |
Originally Posted by Jeff Wills
(Post 23219160)
SunTour went crazy for “endless clamps” back then. It works kind of like a brake lever clamp, where there’s a small block that’s drawn tight by a nut on one side. I see a hex- stick a wrench on it and see if it turns counter-clockwise.
These clamps tend to be sticky- after backing it off a turn or two, tap it lightly to get it loose from the frame. To get it off the frame, you’ll need to back it almost all the way off and then disengage the block from the straps of the clamp. Reassembly is the opposite, and keeping the ends of the straps engaged with the block while tightening everything is a trick. I’d make sure the threads are good, clean, and lubed before trying to reassemble everything. They're very nice shifters, incidentally. Smooth, non-slip construction, lightweight, what's not to like! |
I vote for not painting. I would not give it an OA bath, either--it seems pointless in this case.
Touring bikes are supposed to look well-used. You're good. |
Originally Posted by jonwvara
(Post 23219893)
I vote for not painting. I would not give it an OA bath, either--it seems pointless in this case.
Touring bikes are supposed to look well-used. You're good. There is some rust weep from a couple drain holes, and a little at the top of the seat tube, but most everywherr else is clean. I just would prefer to do a soak if I plan to keep it forever. Can't hurt, and I'd like to do it once to learn. |
Some weeks, some developments physically and conceptually.
The bike is still in pieces, however we are marching closer to the finish line. Recently parts include:
Now, conceptually! I have recently decided to pivot away from this being a sport-tourer with an emphasis on weight-weenieism to more of a townie/commuter with touring capability. No more drop bars, bring on the North Roads, or the many modern variants. Reason being is that my better half and I only have room for 3 bikes. I decided it made more sense to have a more significant difference between my two bikes' riding styles/capabilities. My Raleigh is tons of fun on the road, but luckily my partner is showing a larger and larger interest in biking! Especially dirt trails, plus she even has talked about wanting to try touring. So, it only makes sense for me to make the Nishiki more of a hybrid/touring thinga-ding. I'm guessing the full build will run to 30 pounds, maybe more. For those who have read this far, I'm hoping for some help with handlebar choice. I'm planning on using a 110mm Tallux with swept back bars. The front end geometry is below. I haven't had a chance to set up a low-middle trail bike with swept back style handlebars. Long stem? Short stem? How far fore or aft should the handlebar grips be relative to the steering axis? There are hugely different swept back bars these days, with some like the Bosco Bars extending close to 5 inches further back compared to classic models like the north roads. I'm leaning towards the grips being basically in line with the steering axis...is my intuition correct? Another thing to remember is that there will be close to 1.5 pounds sitting on the front end at all times with the Soma rack. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...22d57a8305.png https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...87193ea5ff.png |
I think long rides require multiple hand positions so try maximizing in that regard. My Soma Oxfords reach way back, are pretty wide, and also reach forward of the stem for aero efforts. The bars come back far so I can use a long stem.
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