Freaking beautiful. But where is the rod that works the front brake?

Hi: If you enlarge the last photo showing the bike from the front you will see it is very discreetly positioned along side the front fork then makes a kink taking it inside the fork halfway down to reach the drum brake operating lever.

expand the phot below and you will see what I mean.
Regards
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e39c52ad2e.jpg

The 21" frame does have a different feel from the 23". More sporty I think. Any scorcher build I do from now on will be a 21. Especially if I flip the bars. For upright position, I do need this longer stem to get the upper body balance I like on the smaller frame.

Brilliant! Excellent work. So nice to see. I love projects like this. That reflector looks to be the same 1 3/4", measured including the rubber case, type that was used for a long time on English roadsters. I'll bet with some careful Exacto knife work, one could remove the lens from a Lucas reflector and replace it with that original one.

Yes Big Chief: I was thinking along those lines, I cleaned up the lens when reinstalling the reflector and it is in good shape, if I can find one say on eBay it would be very easy to swap the lens over. Regards!!

One of the nicest bikes I put together was this 1938 Hercules Falcon.
It was too small for me and I sold it to a friend at work (he still has it).
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...053e754f5b.jpg

im only 62 but i agree with u whole heartedly.

Is the white yellowed area on the rear mudguard the patch? If so, it was expertly done.

Unusually, I've got a 38 Falcon way down in the project list. But too big for me, maybe I should offer this one up. Hmmm Too bad, we could have swapped!

that is my size.... just got a falcon by clement however and should stop.

...should stop...Bwa-hah-ha, arf, snort!! ;)

Thanks.

1936 BSA Roadster, 3Speed (BSA) + Hub Brakes
 

The Yellowed Area is a bolted on propriety Celluloid White Safety item to give visibility and I think dates from WW2 period.

The repair patches are on edges of both front & rear mudguards (Fenders) and don't show very well as they are sprayed black as per rest of mudguards.
Regards

What size wheels is the frame made for?

EA1/597 mm bead. I have most all the original parts for the bike, drop bars, mudguards, wheels with a rear 3 speed freewheel and the 'esoteric' Herailleur indexed gearing system. I suspect someone upgraded the bike after the war to the newest gear around 1950. Maybe it should be listed under the retro roadies upgraded to STI thread

The nice thing about about the EA1 club wheels is they very nearly have the same effective diameter as 700c's if one didn't want to go the EA3 route. I have some NOS original club rims and tires in the stash.

I'm really diggin the twisted rack stays.

I'm interested in the outcome. So is this a rebranded SA hub or no?

Not easy to tell from diagram but looks a lot like an AW. Except, left side of hub shell unscrews? That's sure different.

I found one!
 

They're Still Out There
This Hercules popped up on Kijiji, Toronto today.
Hard to tell much about it from the photos.
Priced at $100.00 so may be worth a look.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...8e3348e66c.jpg

I like the looks of this one. Wish I could see more. The mudguards look pre war to me.I even like the funky art deco chainguard. Old aftermarket or off an American bike? I think I'd keep it.

Thread directions of 26 tpi Raleigh bottom brackets?
 

On my famous 1952 Rudge project, I finally got the drive side cotter pin out, so I removed the cranks, spindle, chain, adjustable cup, fork, wheels, et cetera.

Now I have the Stonich BB tool attached to the seemingly-stuck drive-side BB cup to be able to grab the funky surface features, and I don't know if they remove righty-tighty or lefty-tighty? Anybody know the thread direction?

The fixed cup is a LH thread. Adjustable cup RH. I don't usually remove the fixed cup. They are in there tight. No reason to unless it needs replacing. I just use a rag on a stick to clean it out. When I replace the spindle, I use grease to hold the bearings onto the spindle and thread it carefully through the fixed cup, hold it and screw in the already loaded adjustable cup with my other hand.

Last night I finally got back to the 1950 Superbe. I finished polishing the handlebars, brake levers, and SA shifter a few weeks ago. I washed the frame last night with Meguiar's car wash and wax, and it did reveal blemishes, scratches, and other damage to the near 70 year old paint. However, I like the patina and it did show off some of the richness left in the colour. No corrosion on the frame itself, however the fenders need some work due to surface rust. Is an evapo rust product the best idea here? I'd rather not damage the paint, and I am not sure how I would finish up. Perhaps a clear coat over the area once it is all cleaned up?

I packed fresh bearings in the headset cups with nice marine grease, and put it back together. Turns so smoothly now. Next thing is to source some brake parts and cables, service the AG, and put it back together. The Dynoluxe battery unit needs some TLC. I pulled late 1970s ever-ready (red coloured) batteries out of it. I'm sure you can imagine what they looked like, and the mess in the battery holder. There is some suspect wiring also - I may use some speaker wire to repair that, though I'll need some pointers. It is a lot of fun finally bringing the parts back together. I'll post photos toward the end of the project (my work space is crowded and makes taking photos difficult).