What do you want from life? A Winabego...............

Tubasti Mystery Solved
 

as I am getting closer to actually gluing tires and finishing my build, the question came to me: do people pre glue the spare when the spare is a new not mounted tubie (I have stretched it ) or not. If not, then is it just put it on and ride easy until a proper gluing can be done? (I have seen comments that many people use and old tire that is just old or old an repaired as a spare and as such has glue

I never have. Not necessary IMO. Whether or not it's got glue on it, you will have to be mellow around the corners until you get home and properly glue on a new or repaired tire. Then again, it probably will increase safety factor to pre-glue - if you don't mind the extra mess. Still won't be properly stuck on till you get home and do it right.

More often than not, the spare was a repaired tire that already had glue on it. That is correct.

Back in the days of Clement red, if you procrastinated for a while, often braking heat and residual glue would melt the old glue and stick the spare on pretty well, especially during summer.

Yeah, pre-glue... My spare is usually a used one, but I would never use a repaired tire.

The thing with installing a spare on the road though - pump it up as high as you can get... the pressure is what really holds it on... and take it easy around corners, and watch the downhill braking forces.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Gr...=w1024-h744-no

Yes, they do. Or not. Don't worry.

Two recent ones. Had a flat on a very fancy top end tire. Don't care to reveal the brand. When I started taking the tire off the rim it was OMG. The tire carcass was completely unattached to base tape. Base tape was quite solidly glued to rim but wasn't attached to tire any longer. I must have been riding a long time in that condition. Air pressure held it on. The valve stem was not even crooked.

The mechanic who told me this one asked me not to name names or publish on my blog (which there isn't). Bought a previously glued but not ridden silk CX tubular from the quiver of perhaps the senior luminary of American CX competition. Looked at base tape and it was a very basic glue job. The guy at the swap selling the tires was the mech who did the glue. He has a lot of tires to glue and he keeps it basic. One, two, three, done. He asked how long I'd been gluing tires. Since 1967. OK, he says, you might understand. I tell people how I glue and they never believe it, think I must be keeping secrets. Glue rim, glue tire, wait ten minutes, tire on rim, pump it up.

An old one. A friend used to get a big box of tires every November from Team 7-11, from Jim Ochowicz. Tires to be patched. This was back in days of red glue and the glue on base tape was plain as could be. Two seasons running the tires arrived with a short run of glue from spoke hole to spoke hole and then three spaces spoke hole to spoke hole left blank. A 32 spoke wheel would only have eight short strips of glue. A 28 spoke wheel would have seven short strips of glue. These were tires with marker pen names PHINNEY, BOBKE, HAMPSTEN, CARMICHAEL, DAG-OTTO, ALCALA and so forth.

Glue your tires and expect it to work. Avoid 60mph descents on unglued spares. Don't worry.

I used to just trust the resiglue on the rim to stick to the spare and get me home.
Now, since they're taped, the tape generally stays on the rim, so the spare sticks just fine, and the residue tape gets me home.
(But then I can't use a cool word like resiglue.)

Yeah, in general I pre-glue. My spares tend to be older tires with, as RT called it, resiglue. If it's reasonably fresh I will leave it alone. Otherwise I refresh the glue. If the tire is new I will pre-glue it as if it were to be mounted.

I've never preglued a spare but some guys I worked with used to do it. I don't worry about prestretching them either since the tighter it fits the better.

I usually preglue a spare, when I'm gluing the tubs I'm riding on. Takes just a fee minutes to do, and after a day or so you can fold it up and it's ready to go. Hopefully not needed, but nice to know that it's there.

I've heard that once installed, braking warms and softens the glue on the spare and gives you better adhesion. Can't speak from personal experience on that as I prefer to take it easy on a freshly-mounted spare.

No real reason to test the limits of adhesion and risk a much larger problem than a flatted tub.

while I am keeping the thread busy, does anyone have any experience with wheels from Bicycle wheel ware house?

I am looking at an ultegra 6800 mavic reflex combo.... it matches the mavic open pro/ultegra 6800 clinchers I have for my de rosa

Brief: Tubular Road wheel set 700C, build level info
Rims: Mavic Refelx® CD, (Couche Dure), double stainless eyeleted, 32 holes
Hubs Front: Shimano 105 silver or black (159g), Ultegra (155g), or Dura-Ace (126g), please select
Hubs Rear: Shimano 105 silver or black (350g), Ultegra, (352g) or Dura-Ace (258g) Shimano (& Sram) 8/9/10 speed compatible, 32 holes, please select
Nipples: DT Swiss brass or alloy nipples, please select

Mavic Reflex CD Ultegra Tubular Wheel Set

Last heard of those guys maybe ten years ago. Still in business. Checked site, seems to be same place. Good wheels back then. Pay extra and get light spokes, you'll get more out of the Reflex rims. Which just have to be old stock, a good thing in this case. The DT 2.0/1.8 are so minimally butted always made me wonder why they bothered. 2.0/1.5 rides better.

From VeloNews this week: And I had 27mm tubulars on for Eroica CA. I was very happy to have no tire problems... the toughest test I've ever given any road tires. I saw only about 20% of the bikes at Eroica running tubulars; a lot more than I usually see of course.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/G_...=w1024-h576-no

DiabloScott, is that an Open Pave?

teaser

I will get a first ride in tomorrow on the Challenge Elite Pro 25mm and will report out

I can say gluing mounting process (used tufo tape before) was a total non-issue..... not at all hard (maybe years of reading about it helped and the yellow jersey link helped Tubular Tire Mounting Cement Gluing Adhesion by Yellow Jersey; Thoughts on a Front Wheel

and the spare is of course folded ala @DiabloScott

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...8b0360b107.jpg

construction looks decent
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a42abd98ce.jpg

again looks like decent construction
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...f8d4dcbc06.jpg

diablo scott fold

Well, it's a tubular Pave'. I have 5 unused ones left in my stash. I do have open Pave's on my clincher wheels though (ordered "open" by mistake) - almost as nice of a ride.


Very well executed :thumb: - I suggest closing your valve though, so the stem doesn't break off.

I think these will be interesting , not sure if their seta's . Right now there are stretching , although I have never done the two aged coats and one fresh before mounting I think I'll do it this time . I can change .
Giro d' Italia AX
https://live.staticflickr.com/7897/4...5e74d1c8_z.jpg
IMG_0277 by mark westi, on Flickr

I'm riding my track racing bike after not using it for a few years. I've lost my nerve. I'm afraid my 22mm tires (Continental Sprinter) will slip, even though I know they won't. I'm just nervous, especially when I see a groove in the road. Does anyone have suggestion for rebuilding the confidence? I weigh 170 lbs, and I'm pumping them to 100 psi.

fixed that just after the pic :)

My dear Tom , it's all in your head . Re glue ,and forget about it . Whoever said N+1 does not include a track bike ... Well I don't know , not my opine .

Run over a cat. Once you recover, you'll be fine.

Had my first tubular flat, ever. Tufo Hi-Composite Carbon 25, so yeah, I'm ticked. Tire looks great, like new condition.

Culprit is the valve stem (not the core). Stem "joint" is bad. Tilt it one way, fine, another, air escapes. At 100 psi, it was leaking slow, which I thought was the core. I replaced the core, pumped it to 100, ran a construction gauntlet (mostly sidewalk to avoid steel plates and debris), and 1 mile later, the road roughed up, but I looked down just to be sure: yep, was running a carbon rim on a mostly-flat tire. Slow ride back, replace tire (tape, dude!), eat lunch, stew a bit, and then back on the road for 36.

.....I think a flat on a tubular, on a modern bike, is more disappointing. Not sure why. Zipp 303 on a Wraith.... aargh.

@RobbieTunes :lol: you must be a cat hater. :lol:

Yes. Those are skinny tires. You are running just a touch light on air. Some tubulars, and definitely wider tubulars, are fine a bit soft. Conti Sprinters want to be hard. They get confused and squirmy if soft. Try 120. If no good try 110. Check with a different gauge. Pump gauges can read way off and you'd never know. Also check to see if you are running true to size. Check with a caliper. Contis are pretty good about sizing but even a little narrower or wider in a tire that small makes a difference.