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Screw it - I got a couple more this week after I flatted on Saturday. I think they might be discontinuing this model and I really like it and it comes in 27mm width. The flat was a Yellow Jersey cheapo anyway, so now I'll match both tires.
Originally Posted by DiabloScott
(Post 18227301)
Well, I buy one new tubular tire every year,...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-b...1007152129.jpg |
Originally Posted by DiabloScott
(Post 18233879)
BTW, what do you guys use to glue the base tape back on after a patch? My tape always puckers up and is unsat. All the hints I see call for "latex glue" which I've never seen in an appropriate size package.
Show me an actual product. You could also use it to replenish the worn off latex of your sidewalls... Anyhow, you brushed some on the base tape, and some over the sewn up repair, let it flash dry, and pressed them together. So yeah, it was actually contact cement. Offhand I'd say it was more or less identical to the water based contact cement you can buy today. I'd suppose any good strong contact cement could do the job. Testing first would be a good idea. |
I keep finding old sew ups with the base tape starting to separate from the casing. I am tempted to use them because they still hold air. One pair are Clement Futur CX. Decent tread but the casing on the sidewall is showing and the base tape has thread hanging all around.
I was looking for Latex glue but now that y'all have agreed on Contact cement. Thanks for the validation and a solution. |
That stuff is water soluble contact cement. If you use it to coat your tire casing, sprinkle talcum powder on them so they dont pick up dirt.
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Another option for base tape adhesive might be 3M Fast Tack. It was a pretty common emergency glue commonly used when I raced back in the 80s. It dries within 30 minutes or maybe an hour, so one could use it on race day if you got a flat during warm-up. Some people used it as a every-day glue. The main complaint was that it was too strong, such that when you needed to change a tire, it often pulled the base tape away from the casing and left it on the rim. I've been using Barge Cement for re-applying base tape, but I think the 3M Fast Tack would be a good option. It's used for car upholstery, and still readily available at most auto parts stores. Anyone tried it on base tape?
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I spent part of today looking at a tire I fixed a month ago. It's been feeling bumpy and has a slight visible bump. I was afraid my stitching was coming apart. So today I pulled it off the rim and pulled the rim strip off the tire. I was afraid my stitching was coming apart. But no, the stitching was fine. I can feel the patch through the thread. Well, I'm not about to pull the threads apart. They were solid so it would be way too much work for the benefit. In any case I'm prep'ing a different set of wheels for that bike anyway.
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This thread is over 10 years old! It's amazing how it remains useful!
I guess zombies are a force for good ... |
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Originally Posted by DiabloScott
(Post 18768750)
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Originally Posted by gaucho777
(Post 18742192)
Another option for base tape adhesive might be 3M Fast Tack. It was a pretty common emergency glue commonly used when I raced back in the 80s. It dries within 30 minutes or maybe an hour, so one could use it on race day if you got a flat during warm-up. Some people used it as a every-day glue. The main complaint was that it was too strong, such that when you needed to change a tire, it often pulled the base tape away from the casing and left it on the rim. I've been using Barge Cement for re-applying base tape, but I think the 3M Fast Tack would be a good option. It's used for car upholstery, and still readily available at most auto parts stores. Anyone tried it on base tape?
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My solution to tubular glue mess: I buy a box of those liquid syringes to put the glue on a new tire. First, I mount the tire on the (used) rim DRY, paritally inflate, center the tire, then deflate it. Then, I use the syringe to suck dry the tubular glue container (Tubasti is my favorite), then use the syringe to squirt just a little bit under the tape between each spoke hole. Makes almost zero mess, and the syringe can be sealed with no air captured for future use, as well.
BTW, regarding FasTack-yes, it dries quickly, but it also dries OUT, and will leave you un-glued in as little as 1 year, so don't consider any FasTack glue job anything more than just temporary. Use only when you need it to set quickly. |
+1 for the 3M Fast Tack, even if this a Zombie, it is good stuff for the C&V Forum. The LBS I haunt swears by Fast Tack, and it is a strong adhesive. The poing about its life span is something to keep in mind, if you have tubbies on the rims for that long a period.
As expensive the name tubular glues can be, things like 3M Fast Tack, and DAP Maximum Strength contact adhesive can make more sense. But, there is something nostalgic about those rainbow stripes on a Velox Tubasti tube:50:, and the hands like those pictured, along with cleaning the adhesive off:notamused: of rims and tire side walls. Bill |
Originally Posted by DiabloScott
(Post 18768750)
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Originally Posted by qcpmsame
(Post 18769317)
+1 for the 3M Fast Tack, even if this a Zombie, it is good stuff for the C&V Forum.
Bill |
Originally Posted by DiabloScott
(Post 18768750)
Therapeutic glue job.
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https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-S...0515161134.jpg
Two brand new tires on, and I replaced my really ancient spare with a pretty good one. |
3M Fast Tack 08031 Discontinued!
Originally Posted by qcpmsame
(Post 18769317)
+1 for the 3M Fast Tack, even if this a Zombie, it is good stuff for the C&V Forum. The LBS I haunt swears by Fast Tack, and it is a strong adhesive. The poing about its life span is something to keep in mind, if you have tubbies on the rims for that long a period.
As expensive the name tubular glues can be, things like 3M Fast Tack, and DAP Maximum Strength contact adhesive can make more sense. But, there is something nostalgic about those rainbow stripes on a Velox Tubasti tube:50:, and the hands like those pictured, along with cleaning the adhesive off:notamused: of rims and tire side walls. Bill |
Originally Posted by ThomasAndrew
(Post 19278326)
Need to find a new gluing method and material!
Bill |
Gosh, i've read parts of this thread over the years.
responding to a call for a 'new' method for gluing that is very clean & easy. probably been described in this thread many times. pre-stretch tires well coat the tire & rim let em dry overnight 2nd coat, if you are so inclined let em dry, in Seattle maybe 2 overnights if the glue is dry enough they should mount without it getting on braking surface. after the tires are seated to your satisfaction (not my topic here) deflate to a low enough pressure that the short disposable brush can get between tire and rim to coat all the way to the edge of the rim. It takes the tiniest amount and goes quickly. I have also seen toothpicks, shirt collar stays, etc used for this final step. disclaimer: if you have 2 coats of glue on rim & tire, and do not worry about full adhesion to the edge of the rim - chances are you should be fine in almost any situation. But as a 195# rider, I prefer the insurance for any hot, or curvy, or very fast ride i might get involved with. Apologies if this has been previously championed. |
Originally Posted by qcpmsame
(Post 19278354)
Already been done, used the Maximum Bond contact adhesive last weekend to glue on a set of tubs to a new wheelset I built. Easy to find, and much less expensive than Tubasti, Continental cement or the others. The shop keeps giving me a hard time for not switching to the tubular tire tape. Maybe some day, maybe.......
Bill BTW... I found one last full tube of the 3M 08031! :):):) |
Originally Posted by DiabloScott
(Post 18769394)
This thread is not a zombie - it is immortal!
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My contribution today for the thread that just won't die.
@Wildwood +1 for posting this procedure. JUst a few differences for my tubbie mounting drill:
Originally Posted by Wildwood
(Post 19278497)
Gosh, i've read parts of this thread over the years.
responding to a call for a 'new' method for gluing that is very clean & easy. probably been described in this thread many times. pre-stretch tires well coat the tire & rim let em dry overnight 2nd coat, if you are so inclined let em dry, in Seattle maybe 2 overnights if the glue is dry enough they should mount without it getting on braking surface. after the tires are seated to your satisfaction (not my topic here) deflate to a low enough pressure that the short disposable brush can get between tire and rim to coat all the way to the edge of the rim. It takes the tiniest amount and goes quickly. I have also seen toothpicks, shirt collar stays, etc used for this final step. disclaimer: if you have 2 coats of glue on rim & tire, and do not worry about full adhesion to the edge of the rim - chances are you should be fine in almost any situation. But as a 195# rider, I prefer the insurance for any hot, or curvy, or very fast ride i might get involved with. Apologies if this has been previously championed.
Originally Posted by ThomasAndrew
(Post 19278585)
Who is the maker of "Maximum Bond contact adhesive"?
BTW... I found one last full tube of the 3M 08031! :):):) Lots of sizes available, but I just get the pint can to avoid having a can sit after it is opened and some gets used. I haven't had any roll off failures so far, thank goodness. Bill |
"...short disposable brush can get between the tire and rim....."
Good luck trying to do that!. Even with pre-stretched tires, there's no way you can stick a glue laden brush tip in between the tire and rim...... no way!..... You'll just end up with a big mess trying to do so....... |
This thread almost makes me want to take my tubular wheelsets out of retirement . . . . .
I love the way tubulars ride but it has been a long time since I've used them. My tubulars are so old I can't decide whether they've been properly aged or just too old to ride, :) |
Originally Posted by Chombi
(Post 19279322)
"...short disposable brush can get between the tire and rim....."
Good luck trying to do that!. |
Originally Posted by Chombi
(Post 19279322)
"...short disposable brush can get between the tire and rim....."
Good luck trying to do that!. Even with pre-stretched tires, there's no way you can stick a glue laden brush tip in between the tire and rim...... no way!..... You'll just end up with a big mess trying to do so....... I don't get the two layers of glue either is that in case i missed a bit? Whats the thinking behind a layer of glue over a layer of glue? You wouldn't put a second layer of tape on would you? I have never felt the need for a second layer. |
Originally Posted by blamester
(Post 19279400)
+1 on this. If the the tyre is seated and is glued on how could you get anything in there?
I don't get the two layers of glue either is that in case i missed a bit? Whats the thinking behind a layer of glue over a layer of glue? You wouldn't put a second layer of tape on would you? I have never felt the need for a second layer. |
Originally Posted by DiabloScott
(Post 19279691)
I think the two layers idea is only for new or very clean rims... like primer for paint.
If using contact cement the whole procedure is different. |
Most of the references I have read indicate two applications on the base tape. The first is easily absorbed providing a base for the second which is not absorbed as much.
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So far I have not had to resort to the brush in the space to touch up any glue jobs. I was taught to zip tie in regular intervals and on each side of the valve stem and let the wheel set overnight at a minimum to allow everything to bond properly. With the hand tremors the P.D. brings me there is no way I could/would attempt that.
Bill |
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