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-   -   For the love of English 3 speeds... (https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=623699)

gugie 11-02-15 12:00 PM


Originally Posted by Velocivixen (Post 18288439)
@gster - great looking bikes!

I have a photo of him doing some final grinding but don't want to post without his permission.

Post away, I can always deny it was me when my parole officer calls.

edit: looking at the photos, if I knew my work was going to be in close ups, I woulda polished it up through 240 grit!

gster 11-02-15 12:17 PM


Originally Posted by Velocivixen (Post 18288439)
@gster - great looking bikes!

So @gugie agreed to do some welding work for me on my 1971 Raleigh Twenty. I'm using modern brakes and the rear one wouldn't reach the rim (Tektro R559), so wanted the rear brake bridge plate moved down. The plate serves 3 purposes; brake bridge, fender mount and original rack mount. I am using a modern rack, so he suggested using those eyelets for mounting racks on the seat stays, then using a normal piece for the brake bridge. I also had him remove the chain guard attatchment piece since I am not using the chain guard. Of course now it will really need painting.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/710/2...9a40e2e7_z.jpgRaleigh Twenty Brake Bridge by velocivixen, on Flickr
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5748/...23fee081_z.jpgR20 New Bridge by velocivixen, on Flickr
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/574/2...a44e26c2_z.jpgRack Eyelets R20 by velocivixen, on Flickr

I have a photo of him doing some final grinding but don't want to post without his permission.

Thank you.
Looking forward to seeing this one finished.
g

gugie 11-02-15 01:06 PM


Originally Posted by Velocivixen (Post 18288439)

If you look closely, you can see I'm wearing my classic RONA t-shirt.

Sixty Fiver 11-02-15 02:04 PM


Originally Posted by gugie (Post 18288793)
If you look closely, you can see I'm wearing my classic RONA t-shirt.

I opted for V brakes when I modded my P20 and have added V brake bosses to a number of frames... if a 20 is going to get a new coat of powder or paint it is worthwhile to add bosses or bridges for better brakes.

Your work looks great btw.

arex 11-02-15 03:18 PM


Originally Posted by ThermionicScott (Post 18288200)
Happy belated birthday, @Sixty Fiver! :thumb:

Yes, happy birthday. Welcome to Club 50.

Velocivixen 11-02-15 03:31 PM

@Sixty Fiver - Your R20's have been an inspiration. They are all quite unique.

Sixty Fiver 11-02-15 03:38 PM


Originally Posted by Velocivixen (Post 18289239)
@Sixty Fiver - Your R20's have been an inspiration. They are all quite unique.

Thanks... while Forrest has seen a ridiculous level of modification I have done a lot of work for other customers here and abroad to refit R20 frames while the rest of our little fleet has just seen modifications that have not involved extra framework.

Am presently building a number of SA coaster hubs for customers, this solves the rear brake issue nicely.

gugie 11-02-15 03:56 PM


Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver (Post 18288981)
I opted for V brakes when I modded my P20 and have added V brake bosses to a number of frames... if a 20 is going to get a new coat of powder or paint it is worthwhile to add bosses or bridges for better brakes.

Your work looks great btw.

Thanks for the compliment! For small wheeled bikes, V brakes are good choices. Velocivixen is lithe and lean, the Tektros are more than adequate for her needs, IMO.

Sixty Fiver 11-02-15 04:01 PM


Originally Posted by gugie (Post 18289326)
Thanks for the compliment! For small wheeled bikes, V brakes are good choices. Velocivixen is lithe and lean, the Tektros are more than adequate for her needs, IMO.

Those Tektro brakes would stop a truck too.

I have to warn people about the brakes on my P20... it stops on a dime and gives back a nickel in change.

Velocivixen 11-02-15 05:11 PM

@ Sixty Fiver - I searched this and can't find specific info so please bear with me when I ask. My Raleigh chain wheel has 46 teeth. When I tried a 48 tooth it rubbed the chainstay. So my question is: if I were to have the bottom bracket cut down to 73 & rethreaded to standard would I be able to get a bb with a long enough spindle (square taper) so the teeth would not scratch the frame? Longest is usually about 127.5 or so.

thumpism 11-02-15 06:01 PM

Wouldn't it be easier to get a larger rear cog? That would prevent a lot of work.

thumpism 11-02-15 06:06 PM

Meant "smaller." Can't edit or do much else these days in this forum.

Velocivixen 11-02-15 06:18 PM


Originally Posted by thumpism (Post 18289644)
Meant "smaller." Can't edit or do much else these days in this forum.

The issue is the current cottered crankset is fine, but I may want to go cotterless using a square taper bottom bracket. The issue isn't gear inches or anything. With a modern chainring I would maybe go as low as 46t.

Sixty Fiver 11-02-15 07:48 PM


Originally Posted by Velocivixen (Post 18289515)
@ Sixty Fiver - I searched this and can't find specific info so please bear with me when I ask. My Raleigh chain wheel has 46 teeth. When I tried a 48 tooth it rubbed the chainstay. So my question is: if I were to have the bottom bracket cut down to 73 & rethreaded to standard would I be able to get a bb with a long enough spindle (square taper) so the teeth would not scratch the frame? Longest is usually about 127.5 or so.

I run a 42/53 on a 73 / 110 bottom bracket... also ran a 52 tooth single on a 110 with no problems.

BigChief 11-02-15 10:40 PM

I've noticed, not on 20s but on the Sports models is that sometimes there's a flat hammered into the right chainstay for added clearance behind the chainwheel and sometimes there isn't. I think this was done at the factory because the paint is undisturbed. A fudge factor sort of thing. Anyway, setting the chainstay against an anvil and hammering it a bit flatter seems to be one way to keep the chainwheel from rubbing on the frame.
Have you decided on a color yet?

Sixty Fiver 11-03-15 08:23 AM


Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 18290245)
I've noticed, not on 20s but on the Sports models is that sometimes there's a flat hammered into the right chainstay for added clearance behind the chainwheel and sometimes there isn't. I think this was done at the factory because the paint is undisturbed. A fudge factor sort of thing. Anyway, setting the chainstay against an anvil and hammering it a bit flatter seems to be one way to keep the chainwheel from rubbing on the frame.
Have you decided on a color yet?

Many bikes have this done at the factory, is easier to do it hot with a press than it is to do cold.

BigChief 11-03-15 08:53 AM


Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver (Post 18290713)
Many bikes have this done at the factory, is easier to do it hot with a press than it is to do cold.

I can see that. One thing I know for sure is that this low carbon steel can be heated and not become hard and brittle. It can also take plenty of cold forging without weakening. I think that if modifying the BB and crank caused clearance problems, forging a flat on the chainsay would be a legit way to go.

JohnDThompson 11-03-15 09:53 AM


Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver (Post 18290713)
Many bikes have this done at the factory, is easier to do it hot with a press than it is to do cold.

At Trek, we did it cold, after mitering but before brazing, with a specially shaped mandrel and an Arbor press.

Velocivixen 11-03-15 11:40 AM

More photos of @gugie at work. Note the wild sparks! I thought my tires were gonna melt!
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5787/...b1cba2ea_z.jpgSparks Fly on R20 Modification by velocivixen, on Flickr
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/687/2...22da0de6_z.jpg1971 R20 Modification Progress by velocivixen, on Flickr
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/673/2...1ce77612_z.jpgGrinding Chain Guard Mount by velocivixen, on Flickr

Again, I am really appreciative and happy that @gugie was willing to help me out on this. I'm very happy with the results.

Sixty Fiver 11-03-15 11:59 AM


Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 18290792)
I can see that. One thing I know for sure is that this low carbon steel can be heated and not become hard and brittle. It can also take plenty of cold forging without weakening. I think that if modifying the BB and crank caused clearance problems, forging a flat on the chainsay would be a legit way to go.

The carbon steel on old Raleighs is easily worked and is rather forgiving.

bmthom.gis 11-03-15 11:59 AM

I hope to be joining this club tomorrow! A Raleigh Sport for an actual reasonable price has been spotted on my radar, and IMO is worth the 2.5 hour drive. 3 speeds don't come up too often where I am, and if they do you are looking at somethign way overpriced, or completely roached.

BigChief 11-03-15 04:37 PM


Originally Posted by bmthom.gis (Post 18291345)
I hope to be joining this club tomorrow! A Raleigh Sport for an actual reasonable price has been spotted on my radar, and IMO is worth the 2.5 hour drive. 3 speeds don't come up too often where I am, and if they do you are looking at somethign way overpriced, or completely roached.

3 speeds are fun and a great hobby. I hope this bike works out for you. Don't forget...we likes pictures!

gster 11-03-15 04:53 PM

1 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 18292004)
3 speeds are fun and a great hobby. I hope this bike works out for you. Don't forget...we likes pictures!

Yes, we like pictures...
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=486005

gster 11-03-15 04:56 PM

1 Attachment(s)
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=486006

bmthom.gis 11-03-15 05:07 PM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 18292049)

Thanks! Unless the paint is a rattle can job, and everything is roaches for 35 bucks I don't think I can go wrong. Even if the frame is junked, I'll have all th parts needed to build up a frame


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