3-Speed Super Course, In-Process
 

The building didn't stop in my shop when Spring came this year. It slowed down a bit, but I had this project in the queue that needed dry ground outside so I could soda-blast the frame.

Here is what I started with:

https://i.imgur.com/wdoUBdc.png

The fork, fresh from soda-blasting:

https://i.imgur.com/TU5ADZl.png
I was surprised at the poor quality of the chrome plating under the paint. There were bubbles or pockmarks of some kind in the finish, which were hidden by the original paint.

Then I set to work with the rattle-can Rust-Oleum in Hunter Green and Almond Creme. Yes, this is a similar paint job to my Raysport Light Roadster, but the darker green on this one gives a more dramatic contrast.

https://i.imgur.com/A9SAqDL.png
The compound-curve, bamboo fenders work out really well with this color scheme.

These are only preliminary, test-ride/adjustment shots. The bike still needs a chainguard and proper cable-clips to replace the black zip-ties on there at the moment. Also, that's not the saddlebag that I will use on the finished project. It's just carrying the extra tube and flat-kit for these early rides. Another view:

https://i.imgur.com/NX0jr1t.png

I'm running a later model Sturmey-Archer AW hub on this bike. The one without an oil port. I've been draining and lubricating this one through the axle... Is that the correct procedure? Seems to work...

It will be complete in plenty of time for the ABCE (All British Cycling Event) in September. Depending on how it performs on longer rides, I may even ride this on next year's Lake Pepin Tour.



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It is the 4th of july and we communicated. tomorrow he has 4 old Raleighs, I'M stretching for $50 but have to .

This bike is outstanding! Love the color. Hunter Green, I'll keep that in mind. Building a light weight roadster has been a daydream of mine for years. This one is inspiring.

I've found that oil does leak out if you add too much. Which is a good thing if you're bringing a bike back on the road after a long time. It doesn't take much oil to keep things wet in the hub. It tends to spread around and last a long time. A few drops at the start of each season seems to work for me. I take mine apart every 5 years or so to regrease the bearings and there always is a nice thin coat of oil on the works and doesn't seem to degrade the grease on the bearings much.In fact, it might help it from drying out.

I have to blow the budget again at $75 for this one.

https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/r...601393020.html

https://images.craigslist.org/00i0i_...Mw_600x450.jpg

Many Brit bearings have differing numbers of bearings on left and right sides. Something to do with the tight drive side and the slack non- drive side. The old ball-bearing adage " if in doubt leave one out" is grounded in this somewhat eccentric approach to balancing the load on bottom brackets, hub axles, pedals etc.

Another nice one. Pre TI too. Again, English brake routing. Odd, most of the old 3 speeds I see here in New England except for rod brakes models were set up for right/rear operation. Personally, I like the look of the English style routing. The cables make a nice cross in front. Neater looking I think and I don't have any problem riding with them that way.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1ba388f800.jpg


I have no problem with the left/rear brakes on my 1958 Sun Cresta and agree with [MENTION=398265]BigChief[/MENTION] that they do look good.

If its making a mess you know you have enough

My fail is "TI" is What?All I
do is look at have

TI is a company called Tube Investments that owned some of the other Brit brands of bikes before purchasing Raleigh in 1960. They There's probably more thorough info out there, but it's explained in this Wiki article: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raleigh_Bicycle_Company
I like the earlier curve of Raleigh forks, like the curve on johnnyspags latest black step-through - I wonder if this is a pre-TI thing too? I don't know when they changed the curve.
Edit to add: maybe the fork curve is random? Sirweighsatonne has the curve I'm talking about, curvy all the way through to the drop-outs. Later forks seemed to have a sharper curve and then a straight just before the drop-outs. But Sirweighsatonne is a 70's DL-1 ?

under a hondo



got him

...so nice, bet they ride really nicely

I've seen this colour scheme before and I really like it - black rims & tyres, dark green frame - looks great and like the cream in there too.
What kind of handlebars are you using? They look comfy. I have some that are very similar and would like to get hold of a 2nd for another bike. I find that handlebars for me make such a big difference to a comfortable bike. I think I must have about 10 spares at the moment from my quest for comfort. And on the roadworthy bikes I have different bars for different bikes.

Cool Bike!! Makes me want to give drop bars one last go...I've never really tried them with a taller stem

"Sir Wayes" is a 1979 DL1 for export to Canada. Sold at Periks Cycle in Hamilton Ontario. I will be hopefully selling this 1977 DL1 pictured here, this weekend at the CVBS in Brantford ON.https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...452b973ed3.jpg

The handlebar is easy: Velo Orange Milan. I use these on bikes that I want to ride with a bit of forward lean.

The blackwall tires were a happy accident. I originally ordered Panaracer Paselas in 700c x 32 with the tan sidewall, but when I went to mount them, the first one had a slit in it, like it was nicked with a box cutter somewhere. So I pulled these down from the wall and mounted them instead. I might keep them on there, and maybe replace them with blackwall Paselas when they wear out. That color scheme works.

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This thread is making think about a three speed! A lot of them go for pretty in my area.

Thanks! Their Postino bars also looks good.

The dunelt is coming along nicely.

This Rudge project is fun. Lots of stuff to fix. Right now I'm considering how to touch up the old cloth cable housing covers. They are in pretty decent shape, but there are a few frayed spots. Just need something to glue the fibers together and stick to the steel housing.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1572354b3b.jpg

I've got one that looks like this too. The cloth on mine is really dry and cracking though, so I'm still thinking of doing the shoelace trick you posted about

Good question.
Someone told me to use the blue....

They used black Plasti Dip to make those. I suppose that would work for small repairs like mine, but it's a long drive for me to get some and I'm hot and being lazy. If you have a cloth cable that's really beat, maybe it's possible to give the whole cable a coat. Worth a try, but it would be interesting to build entirely new ones with shoe laces.
I saved that link in case you lost it.
cloth cable