Young people should just get the minivan to start with.

Just about finished with it.

Still need to find out if one of my local bike shops has a cotter press to repack bearings in the bottom bracket. Found a new front brake also ran new cables. I actually took apart the rear hub cleaned it out and repacked everything. I spent two days at the kitchen table rebuilding it. Also I hadn't noticed when I bought the bike that it had a bend in the drive side fork. I took it to a frame builder friend in my area and he pulled it back into place for me, It tracks pretty decent now.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4605/3...40003098_b.jpg

Looking good. Just the bottom bracket to go then. Well, there are fun accessories you could add. A leather saddle, saddle bag and tool kit is always nice. So, how's the old 60s stepthrough? Guess it got sidelined for this project. I do that a lot too.

I think you have me confused, not step through frame for me.

I really want a new saddle for it. on my wrecked frame I had a B67 I might try to use it but I think it is a little bent. I also would like to add a marks rack and baskets as well as new grips at some point.

Sherwood Forest Green? ;)

Congrats on both the bike and finding the forum. Your Superbe looks almost unridden but you may want to service the bearings all round. This thread is a long but informative read and also search Sheldon Browns Raleigh English 3 Speeds, especially the Raleigh sectipn. They're slightly different.

Did you also get the key for the locking fork?

Welcome and congrats on a good find. That Superbe is in remarkable condition. +1 on the bearings. You need to keep in mind that it is possible that the bearings haven't seen new grease since it left Nottingham in the mid 70s. It won't hurt to ride it some at first, but it should be done before too long. Besides, it will ride much smoother with a fresh servicing. There are videos on servicing both the dyno hub and AW hub on youtube,

I can tell by the photos that your bike has barely been ridden or even out of the house in 40+ years.
Good find.
Servicing the bearings is in order. Some thick oil dribbled down the seat tube is a quick/temporary fix.

I don't know the names either, I just threw that out there while thinking of their Robin Hood line. :)

Nearly new condition. Lucky find.
The stem looks too high, check it and lower it, Or ship the whole bike to me and I'll take it off your hands. :)

These old Raleighs aren't as bad as some. There's no keyway in the threaded section of the fork tube, but still, you want the stem expander below the threads.

What stem can be used for extra length? Thanks!

Hi all, I am back after a long absence. The new job took me to the seas for a couple of months.

Finally back at home and I find out that my Raleigh Sports was used while I was away and someone broke the chain.

I need to replace it and was wondering if there is a special kind or length for the chain.

I also have a few extra bucks now and I was wondering if anyone on this forum knows about a good bike shop in Houston where I can take my bike for servicing.

Thanks

You have a couple of options. Raleigh forks need a 22.2mm stem. Vintage Raleigh handlebars are 15/16" and not the standard 1" that most modern stems are made for. So if you use a modern stem, you'll need to shim the clamp to get a tight fit on the old Raleigh bars. Or you can patiently search ebay for a longer Raleigh stem. Most are 5 1/2" but sometimes the longer ones will show up. I'll guess they are an inch or so longer. I'm 6' tall and I made a 21" frame fit me by using a long Sunlite touring stem and shimming the clamp to fit the bars
https://www.niagaracycle.com/categor...1-22-2mm-quill

I did have to make up custom length cables to fit the new position of the bars.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4324/...58cf37b7_k.jpgRudge Scorcher by Billy Bones, on Flickr

Perhaps you just broke the master link which would be a simple fix and found at any bike shop. If thats the case I would sick with the original chain. A good opportunity to soak & clean thorough. If the master is still there you will need a chain link tool to push out link pins where as the master link can be removed & installed with a small screwdriver. Easy fix you can do.
As far as a shop for service, find one that has been Raleigh dealer & has been in business for over fifty years and has a really old mechanic Preferably.

Coaster brake and 3-speed chains have long been 1/2" x 1/8" and are usually 96 links long. The horizontal dropouts usually allow for variations in frame and gearing, but if you have a much larger rear cog, say 22T or 24T instead of 18T, you might need a few extra links to get enough chain. I needed to do this when I put a 24T on my Sports.
Attachment 601005

And you don't need an old mechanic as much as you need someone who's dealt with what you have. Such a person is likely to have a few years on him but let's not get into reverse ageism here.

An SR Swan or a Nitto Technomic is taller than a normal steel Raleigh stem. The Nitto comes in different reaches, which is handy if you also need more repositioning. There are also stem raisers that will let you use your current stem and jack it up a few inches but you'll be stuck with the same reach, much like what the Swan does.
https://harriscyclery.net/merchant/3...zoom/sm248.jpg

True, but the vast majority of the people in the bike business today are clueless when it comes to these old English bikes. Worse yet, they tend not to be sensitive to the preservation and restoration aspects of our hobby. I highly recommend doing all your own work. It's a great hobby.

When I asked for some cotter pins at a shop last year the guy said
"Why bother? I just cut the cranks off and put a sealed cartridge in..."

Thanks for the stem information. My back thanks you too!

I went to one of the local shops around here and asked for a crank cotter, then after further explanation he had no clue what I was talking about.

I’m super happy and lucky that the shop closest to me (walking distance) is extremely vintage friendly. The owner is a classic bike but, and his staff are very friendly and sympathetic even when they have no clue what I am talking about. I went asking for some wing nuts (Huret to match what I have); the young helper had no idea what I meant but the more senior guy pulled it a huge box of them and said let me know when you find what you need....it’s a luxury I know! (And the kid was astounded that wheels used to be held on with those things!)

You should buy all of them and become the wing nut king of Ontario.

I've got my first Dynohub project coming up and I was wondering what to do about the bulbs. Right now the system has two ancient filament bulbs that aren't working. The hub is producing current and there's continuity through the wires and the 3 position switch. So, I need to replace the bulbs with something. The only thing I can find on the internet are these Nicelite LED conversions. There's a component that attaches to the hub terminals that supposedly protects the LED from voltage spikes. Anybody here use these? I don't plan on night riding. I just want the lights to be functional. I'd be happy with the old fashioned bulbs if I could find them. Any thoughts? Thanks

So you need a front and rear? I've got a few spare originals. PM your address and I'll send them along.

[MENTION=185977]clubman[/MENTION] That's very kind of you, thanks, I'll do that.

I am really liking this 1 speed for $75 It has a 40 spoke rim that I am not sure of manufacture.

https://mail.google.com/mail/?ui=2&i...3&disp=safe&zw

I dont see a master link , do you?

Should I just ask for a master link at the bike shop?

^^ Yes.


I've run LEDs for years with no worries. I got the LEDs from John the Gentleman Cyclist:
Gentleman Cyclist Merchandise

You can be seen, but don't expect to see much!