Yes, very sharp. Nicely done. I like the combination of roadster handlebars and a suspension saddle. Very comfy looking.

Thanks! From what I understand, it's actually a take-off...it looks practically brand new! I haven't weighed the bike, but it's definitely lighter than my '37 Tourist.

This build was heavily influenced by my 1937 Raleigh Tourist, which has a quadrant shifter and a (modern) B66. The ANT has a VO Model 8...I really would have preferred black, but they were sold out of it by the time I decided to order it. At least as far as initial impressions go, I think the VO saddle might actually be more comfortable for me than the Brooks....this may have a lot to do with the lacing. I've only ridden it for a total of about a mile so far, though, because the weather's been a little too gross for a new build. I've been riding my studded tire bike primarily, still (the franken-5-speed in an earlier recent post of mine).

Here they are right next to each other (well, kinda...haven't yet had the opportunity to have them physically next to each other with the ANT this complete):
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...926_143723.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...310_173452.jpg

With Spring upon us, I pulled out the E3S and after a few miles on the old critter have decided it would be much nicer if I had a longer stem.

Is there a period correct or even not period correct stem that I can purchase off the shelf (interwebs) somewhere to use in my bike, just a simple swap out?

This bike is a 21 inch frame, I have two equally nice, bare frames in 23 inch but they have a shorter or equal top tube length to the 21, go figure. So, I prefer my 21, it is stiffer, lighter and rides better. I just need a longer stem, regardless of either frame size.

Woe upon me, what can I do?

J

You might be able to track down one of the lugged Sprite stems that are an inch or two longer than the typical Sports stem

You could show us a picture and give preferred stem measurements? GB stems always look good.

I can later, out for errands now. It is a Plain Jane Raleigh E3S with an approximate 3.5 cm original stem.

What would work best for me is something around double that, that I can purchase off the shelf. I do not wish to start another endless project of searching and bidding on Ebait junk. So what I am trying to find is an off the shelf solution to double the stem length and use the existing North Road bars. And preferably it would look appropriate on the bicycle in character.

?

Any 22.2mm stem will fit the fork, but most stems are for 1" bars and the old Raleighs had 15/16" bars so you would need a 1/32" shim. I use softer metal like lead, copper or even brass for the shim. Works fine, never slips. Here is the extra length stem I'm using for my 21" Rudge.
https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Steel.../dp/B000AO9OYE
Here is my 21" Sprite with the Sprite stem maxed out. I can get about an inch and a half more than a regular Sports stem.
Attachment 555665

Like Clubman said, a GB stem would look OK. For total functionality a modern stem would probably be the answer, as long as you didn't care it looked "modern".

@agmetal, that's really nice. Where will you be riding it?

Pretty much everywhere, haha! I expect it'll see a lot of commuting use once I feel comfortable enough with the weather to be regularly riding without studded tires

Nice bike but those tyres will never be whiter!

They ain't that white now :D I have ridden it a couple times

Again nice bike, a three speed has been on my list for a while.
I wish I had a photo of the International before the grey plague rim dust iced my gumwalls.

I have a minor dilemma, wonder what you guys well say.

Several years ago I picked up an unloved Armstrong roadster, loop frame, rod brakes, 28"wheels, mostly complete but no rear wheel. I estimate the date mid 1930's but what do I know.

Given the choice between a pair of 28" rims (40/32) or just the rear one, for the same price, I took both. I have now built the rear wheel on a hub dated (194)0, and it is good.

The old front rim is a little rusty, all the chrome worn off the braking surface, doesn't match the rear one at all. But it's original.

I may have another 32h hub; not sure. I probably have spokes, or could get them easy.

So, what should I do, rebuild the front wheel with a shiny new rim to match the rear? Build a whole new front wheel? Or keep the original just because it's original?

Don't even ask me why I'm doing this. I didn't want this bike, just feel a responsibility to get it usable again because it's cool and old.

635 mm rims are now available in alloy. Will take a ton of weight off old steel roadsters.

Good tires are also available in the size. Should be able to get the bike in riding condition.

Good luck and keep us updated on your project.

Oh, I have rims, tires, and tubes. I'm not trying to upgrade or lighten. This is a 1930's rod brake roadster, it's not a good candidate for modernization.

Could you get the rusty front rim (de)/re-chromed? Not terribly environmental, but preserves in use an authentic original part. If the braking surface is not polished up when re-chroming, then it will have a dull chrome finish, better for braking efficiency.

If everything else is original, re use the front wheel. Clean it up as best, spoke it and check for roundness then send it on its way.

Clearly, you need to find a complete bike with relatively decent 635mm rims, "borrow" the front wheel and put the rest in a corner of your basement for a few years.

I tried that, but got distracted before I got the wheel off the donor bike, which must be in some forgotten corner down there, perhaps one of the ones where the light bulb is burned out, and now there's little hope of finding it again. Maybe I should just try again....

Seriously, interesting to note that the existing front rim is marked "Palmer" and the badly deteriorated tire is marked "Palmer [cord] Viking." Both are marked "Made in England". I guess this is the original tire. It has a beefy Bayliss-Wiley hub, just what you'd expect.

From what I've seen, the aluminum Westwood rims that are out there are only available in 36h drilling

Yellow Jersey has new 32 and 40H chromed steel Westwoods for $30.

Yeah, I've seen those...but what was being discussed was using aluminum for weight savings. I did consider getting a pair of those a while ago, but ended up finding a pair locally. I haven't really used them yet, though...I laced up the front with a DynoHub that I plan to eventually set up with my '37 Tourist, but I struggled with the wheel build more than any other wheel build I've ever done. The rear I might eventually use to build up a new wheel around the original hub on the same bike.

Here's a 1948 Rudge Sports I just acquired. You can see more photos of it here...
http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...ge-sports.html

My tax return came in, and I felt like treating myself for passing my third mate's license. Bought this Raleigh Tourist off eBay, and sent it in to be overhauled. It needed it badly, but now it's almost completely brand spanking new. Rides like an absolute dream, and it shifts and pedals so smoothly.



http://i.imgur.com/rPI649J.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/ZiE0vVj.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/pCbQ6mv.jpg


It's apparently a 1975 or 1976 model; the SA hub is dated December 1974. Dunno where to look on a Tourist for the S/N.