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-   -   For the love of English 3 speeds... (https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=623699)

PalmettoUpstate 03-12-15 06:02 PM


Originally Posted by El Segundo (Post 17626007)
+1. I would buy the wheel regardless.

+2 that.
@Velocivixen I'd even go so far to say that $10 would be a pretty good deal even if it turned out only good for spare parts; which is highly unlikely with an AW IMO.

PalmettoUpstate 03-12-15 06:10 PM

TEKTRO and...?
 
Seeing the more-or-less raves about the TEKTRO 559's here and having read thru generally very positive reviews at the big river site, I'd like to ask what kind of brake cables & housings FTLOE3S people prefer when doing this upgrade to an English 3 speed.

And BTW, I don't live in a biking mecca and the LBS's here generally want premium prices for anything off-the-shelf and for special orders. Thus most of my parts and accessories are bought online.

Thanks!

El Segundo 03-12-15 06:41 PM

2 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by PalmettoUpstate (Post 17626060)
Seeing the more-or-less raves about the TEKTRO 559's here and having read thru generally very positive reviews at the big river site, I'd like to ask what kind of brake cables & housings FTLOE3S people prefer when doing this upgrade to an English 3 speed.

And BTW, I don't live in a biking mecca and the LBS's here generally want premium prices for anything off-the-shelf and for special orders. Thus most of my parts and accessories are bought online.

Thanks!

I used the Shimano BL-R550, $20.72 from Niagara Cycle, includes cables. I also bought the Tektros there.

My nearest LBS is about 18 miles away however, not very helpful with anything older then last year's model. Another shop about 25 miles away has an older mechanic who likes the older bikes although not particular in love with the three speeds. I do enough business with them on my road bikes that he is pretty helpful with oddball requests.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=438763http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=438764

BigChief 03-12-15 06:46 PM


Originally Posted by Velocivixen (Post 17625922)
Ok, so I shouldn't feel bad about possibly changing out the headset. ;) You have any idea what headset will fit a 1955 non Raleigh bike? JIS? ISO? Have any of you replaced headset on an old bike?


On a different not a local CL listing for a 26" wheel laced to a SA 3 speed hub for $10 got my attention. I'll likely get it tomorrow. Hubs very dirty so seller couldn't see or didn't want to take the time to find a date codes. I've read recently you are of the opinions that the '40's & '50's were the golden era of SA AW hubs. I'm not in any hurry for a hub, but want a project. Are there any years I should avoid?

This is my recommendation:
Sturmey Archer Headset Raleigh English Racer | eBay

I have never had to replace the pressed in cups, but I see no reason they can't be drifted out and replaced. I think it would be far easier, less expensive and work just as well or better to stick with the original design headset and just replace the broken parts. This and a box of 5/32 ball bearings should put things right. That is, of course, if the race on the fork hasn't been ruined as well. I'm assuming only the top race was wrecked.

arex 03-12-15 06:52 PM


Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 17626154)
This is my recommendation:
Sturmey Archer Headset Raleigh English Racer | eBay

I have never had to replace the pressed in cups, but I see no reason they can't be drifted out and replaced. I think it would be far easier, less expensive and work just as well or better to stick with the original design headset and just replace the broken parts.

+1

tbo 03-12-15 06:52 PM

We've been talking about braking recently here, in fact I am one of the instigators of that. I am an absolute newcomer (6 or 8 months) to this idea of English 3 speeds and I only have 2. So take anything I say with a grain of salt and please let me know if I am getting far afield.

We have these bikes because my wife rides one every day to work. I will do everything in my power to make sure that the bicycle she has is 1) as safe as possible and 2) a bicycle she loves to ride. Based on some very good advice from here in BF C&V, Sheldon Brown, and Lovely Bicycle, I set her up on some professionally built up CR-18 wheels and Kool Stops. She thought it was a good improvement but she hasn't ridden any bicycle newer than her current C&V 3 speed. To my mind, it wasn't quite what I was expecting. Much better, but still not there yet, not by a long shot.

If there has been one big improvement in the last 40 or 50 years in this section of the bike market, it is brake technology. The rest of the bicycle is great. Good balance, nice ride, stable, easy to work on, takes more cargo than an 18 wheeler, and no chain schmutz on your pants leg. That all stands up to any new bicycle in its class today and you can get one for Craigslist money. And that AW hub is just amazing. But as originally configured, it just can't stop itself, especially when wet.

New brakes on aluminum rims are better than old brakes on steel rims. Knowing that, and after testing out the new brakes on my bike, I just can't let her ride around on those old things. Yes, it might lose a little bit of that true vintage look. But vintage looks are not worth risking a possibly avoidable crash over, especially on a daily driver bicycle. If these were truly vintage bikes that were actually worth something, I would consider that as long as we had other bikes to ride. But this is her one and only. So good, modern, non-vintage, brakes with modern alloy rims it is.

So, in addition to the standard recommendations of getting new alloy rims (plus tires and tubes, if at all suspect) for your 3-speed, I would replace getting the Kool Stops with getting modern brakes instead.

Sacrilige?

PalmettoUpstate 03-12-15 07:07 PM


Originally Posted by El Segundo (Post 17626146)
I used the Shimano BL-R550, $20.72 from Niagara Cycle, includes cables. I also bought the Tektros there.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=438763http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=438764

That looks like a nice setup. I'm assuming that the cables and housing would be the modern "slippery and non-binding" type?

PalmettoUpstate 03-12-15 07:18 PM


Originally Posted by tbo (Post 17626170)
We have these bikes because my wife rides one every day to work.

My 2 cents... That says it all; if my wife were commuting on a bike - any bike - it would be set up with the best stop and go stuff - lighting, tires, tubes, brakes, bell, mirror - out there.

So to me, naw, not sacrilege definitely given the bike's usage. Personally I'd think the Kool Stop pads would fit into that scenario but maybe there are better ones out there... Looks to me like the Kool Stops you are now using would bolt up to the TEKTRO 559's but maybe I'm missing something...

tbo 03-12-15 07:25 PM


Originally Posted by PalmettoUpstate (Post 17626235)
My 2 cents... That says it all; if my wife were commuting on a bike - any bike - it would be set up with the best stop and go stuff - lighting, tires, tubes, brakes, bell, mirror - out there.

So to me, naw, not sacrilege definitely given the bike's usage. Personally I'd think the Kool Stop pads would fit into that scenario but maybe there are better ones out there... Looks to me like the Kool Stops you are now using would bolt up to the TEKTRO 559's but maybe I'm missing something...

I guess I could get Kool Stops for the Tekro R559's, but I can't use the Continental style I took off with the old calipers. The new brake pads with the R559's seems very good enough for now, and I might get Kool Stops when replacements are needed.

And yes, she has mirrors, outrageously bright LED lights, Hi-vis vest, bell, reflectors in the rims, you name it.

El Segundo 03-12-15 07:27 PM


Originally Posted by PalmettoUpstate (Post 17626212)
That looks like a nice setup. I'm assuming that the cables and housing would be the modern "slippery and non-binding" type?

Cables are marked "Shimano M System" and looking at piece I cut off it is lined with some type slick material. Whatever the stuff is the brake action is very smooth.

Velocivixen 03-12-15 07:29 PM

@PalmettoUpstate - I used to buy the Jagwire "kits" for either brakes or derailleurs. These run about $18. Now I buy these:

Universal Cycles -- Jagwire Basics Lined Brake Set - (1 Brake)

Universal Cycles has a store in Portland & they know me by name! I'm in there all the time and great customer service. They're local and they have an area with cats for adoption- hard to place cats with Feline Leukemia- helping out a no kill shelter. They used to let a couple cats roam the store ( it's a big store), but someone complained. Anyway they have tons of product and are fantastic to work with. I'm sure other outlets carry the Jagwire "Basics" kits.

@tbo - I've come to the same conclusion. I am not a purist but I try to respect the era of the bikes. Safety is paramount & my bikes aren't high end, so there you have it.

I will pick up the wheel/SA hub tomorrow at 11 a.m. I'll report back.

Regarding my headset. It's not broken, and I have readjusted it. Has one of those floating race headsets that I've mentioned in earlier posts.

@El Segundo - they're Teflon coated most likely. Lovely brake feeling.

El Segundo 03-12-15 07:36 PM

@Velocivixen I also suspect teflon but so far have not googled the right info source.

Good luck with the wheel tomorrow.

Edit: Found it, lining is PTFE (Teflon) with stainless cables.

gster 03-12-15 07:49 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Here's a good question
What does the DL-1 stand for with a Raleigh Tourist?
James Bond (Sean Connery) liked them.....
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=438775http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=438776

El Segundo 03-12-15 08:09 PM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 17626318)
Here's a good question
What does the DL-1 stand for with a Raleigh Tourist?
James Bond (Sean Connery) liked them.....
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=438775http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=438776

Just a guess - "De Luxe"

gster 03-12-15 08:11 PM


Originally Posted by El Segundo (Post 17626356)
Just a guess - "De Luxe"

My thoughts as well...

Salubrious 03-12-15 08:33 PM


Originally Posted by nlerner (Post 17625796)
Biggest issue is with the shape of the dropout slots: rear is made for an Sturmey Archer axle with two slides flat, and it's spaced at 115mm. Front is made for a fairly small diameter axle. I either need to find/build some 27" or 700c wheels with the hubs that'll fit those axles or do some filing.

Why not just build up the wheel using a Raleigh hub?


Originally Posted by Velocivixen (Post 17625922)
Are there any years I should avoid?

Generally speaking, the newer ones just aren't as good. I avoid anything after 1959; that is the cutoff date where they went to plastic oiler ports. The older ones leak more, but are more charming :) Actually I have '72 hub on my Superbe and it works fine.


Originally Posted by tbo (Post 17626170)
We've been talking about braking recently here, in fact I am one of the instigators of that. I am an absolute newcomer (6 or 8 months) to this idea of English 3 speeds and I only have 2. So take anything I say with a grain of salt and please let me know if I am getting far afield.

So, in addition to the standard recommendations of getting new alloy rims (plus tires and tubes, if at all suspect) for your 3-speed, I would replace getting the Kool Stops with getting modern brakes instead.

Sacrilige?

If it gets her riding then that is what is most important. Geeks for original kit (like myself) will not be riding her bike. Heck I don't even live in the same town :)

BTW this is the style of brake levers I use on my Superbe. They look very much like the originals but they have more leverage:

Vintage N O s Weinmann Bicycles Brake Levers Made in Germany Mounting Clamps | eBay

desconhecido 03-12-15 08:45 PM

1 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by Velocivixen (Post 17626269)
Regarding my headset. It's not broken, and I have readjusted it. Has one of those floating race headsets that I've mentioned in earlier posts.

Seems to fit into the "if it's not broke" category. If you try to replace it, you might find that you've opened a can of headset worms.

The first issue is one of fit. Stack height, head tube ID, and crown race ID. If you can find someone familiar with what Phillips was doing back in the mid 50s, you can probably get that info. But, the better way would be to measure and in order to do that, you have to take the thing down to individual parts, in my opinion. Certainly don't want to get a headset which requires more steerer than you have.

Then, there is the thread issue. Because the Nottingham Raleighs (and their "brand engineered" clones) are what most of us in this thread are working on, we tend to think of the 26 tpi thread thing. But, if my understanding is correct, that was mostly a Nottingham thing and bikes built by Raleigh at Worksop (Carlton) had 24 tpi, just like downtown. I've never heard of any English bike but a Nottingham Raleigh having anything but 24 tpi threaded steerers. So, that Ebay headset (which seems like a bargain to me, if it's a 26 tpi headset) may or may not work for you. (Thread gauges are nice. I bought one from Amazon which has both tpi and metric for less than $7 delivered. Looks like the cheapest available now is about $13 delivered. They are handy and easily used to impress your friends. Cheap ones are ok -- you don't need Starrett quality.)


then, if you are correct that these headsets were used to compensate for less than optimal machining, then, there's a good chance that the head tube on your Phillips will need to be properly prepped before a common variety threaded headset can be installed. This is not a big deal if you have a shop that can do such things (we do in Houston, but not many). To properly face the headtube, maybe ream the ID, set the races, cut the fork to length -- a well equipped bike shop probably has $1000 or more in tools to do this and it will cost $30 to $75 (estimate) depending on who does it and what has to be done.

So, when you have a hammer, everything looks like a nail. When you have a lathe, everything looks like a mallet:
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=438781

gmouchawar 03-12-15 08:55 PM

So after lurking on the 3-speed here for some time, I bit the bullet and bought one on ebay:
Vintage Raleigh Men Road Bike
Doing some research, it appears to be a 1978 Spirit. How are these different from the sports. Other than the rack they appear identical.
I don't have it yet. It is in transit to CA from FL. I have my fingers crossed for it being packed well and arriving without UPS induced dents.
I am also hoping its the 27" model for tire availability.
Please feel free to comment on my new to me 3 speed and many thanks.

BigChief 03-12-15 09:04 PM


Originally Posted by tbo (Post 17626170)
We've been talking about braking recently here, in fact I am one of the instigators of that. I am an absolute newcomer (6 or 8 months) to this idea of English 3 speeds and I only have 2. So take anything I say with a grain of salt and please let me know if I am getting far afield.

We have these bikes because my wife rides one every day to work. I will do everything in my power to make sure that the bicycle she has is 1) as safe as possible and 2) a bicycle she loves to ride. Based on some very good advice from here in BF C&V, Sheldon Brown, and Lovely Bicycle, I set her up on some professionally built up CR-18 wheels and Kool Stops. She thought it was a good improvement but she hasn't ridden any bicycle newer than her current C&V 3 speed. To my mind, it wasn't quite what I was expecting. Much better, but still not there yet, not by a long shot.

If there has been one big improvement in the last 40 or 50 years in this section of the bike market, it is brake technology. The rest of the bicycle is great. Good balance, nice ride, stable, easy to work on, takes more cargo than an 18 wheeler, and no chain schmutz on your pants leg. That all stands up to any new bicycle in its class today and you can get one for Craigslist money. And that AW hub is just amazing. But as originally configured, it just can't stop itself, especially when wet.

New brakes on aluminum rims are better than old brakes on steel rims. Knowing that, and after testing out the new brakes on my bike, I just can't let her ride around on those old things. Yes, it might lose a little bit of that true vintage look. But vintage looks are not worth risking a possibly avoidable crash over, especially on a daily driver bicycle. If these were truly vintage bikes that were actually worth something, I would consider that as long as we had other bikes to ride. But this is her one and only. So good, modern, non-vintage, brakes with modern alloy rims it is.

So, in addition to the standard recommendations of getting new alloy rims (plus tires and tubes, if at all suspect) for your 3-speed, I would replace getting the Kool Stops with getting modern brakes instead.

Sacrilige?

No, not at all. These are bolt on, reversible mods. You can always keep the original parts with the bike.
Things become important when we make them important. In my admittedly oddball mind, things like old bicycles kept in well preserved original condition are important. I love seeing them and they serve as a reference for my hobby of restoration. But modification is a fun hobby too. Not every feature of an old bike needs or even deserves preservation. When you own an old bike, it's your call to make. It all adds up to a fun hobby and greasy hands...life is good.

desconhecido 03-12-15 09:20 PM


Originally Posted by gmouchawar (Post 17626455)
So after lurking on the 3-speed here for some time, I bit the bullet and bought one on ebay:
Vintage Raleigh Men Road Bike
Doing some research, it appears to be a 1978 Spirit. How are these different from the sports. Other than the rack they appear identical.
I don't have it yet. It is in transit to CA from FL. I have my fingers crossed for it being packed well and arriving without UPS induced dents.
I am also hoping its the 27" model for tire availability.
Please feel free to comment on my new to me 3 speed and many thanks.


Originally Posted by gmouchawar (Post 17626455)
Doing some research, it appears to be a 1978 Spirit. How are these different from the sports.

Looks like a Sprite.

Some differences. Most significant is, probably, 27" (630 mm) wheels rather than 26" (590 mm) wheels. Easier to convert to 700 than a Sports, more tire choices as it is. So, the Sports will typically have fatter tires (1 3/8) as opposed to the 1" to 1 1/4 for a 27" tire. So, the Sports may be cushier than the Sprite, but not a lot.

Cosmetic differences : Sprite doesn't have the raised center on the fenders. Rims are not "Raleigh Pattern." Chainwheel doesn't have a Heron. Other minor differences.

The Sprite also came as a 10 speed. We have one of those from 1974 -- step through model. My wife's favorite bike. "It's a roller."

My understanding is that the Sprite shared a frame with one of the Raleigh road bikes of the era, but can't remember the model (Record, maybe).

That looks like a nice bike and with a bit of grease here and there (almost all of these old bikes have been neglected to one degree or another -- yours appears to a lesser degree) it can be a roller too.

El Segundo 03-12-15 09:30 PM


Originally Posted by gmouchawar (Post 17626455)
So after lurking on the 3-speed here for some time, I bit the bullet and bought one on ebay:
Vintage Raleigh Men Road Bike
Doing some research, it appears to be a 1978 Spirit. How are these different from the sports. Other than the rack they appear identical.
I don't have it yet. It is in transit to CA from FL. I have my fingers crossed for it being packed well and arriving without UPS induced dents.
I am also hoping its the 27" model for tire availability.
Please feel free to comment on my new to me 3 speed and many thanks.

Nice bike, these things can get addictive. Pretty much trouble free with just some simple servicing. You are in the right thread these guys/gals have helped me a lot the last few weeks.

PalmettoUpstate 03-12-15 09:57 PM

1 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by desconhecido (Post 17626497)
Looks like a Sprite.

Chainwheel doesn't have a Heron. The Sprite also came as a 10 speed.

Au contraire; it does have the herons on the chainwheel. Add to your list of differences a rear reflector integrated into the OEM Pletscher rack, alloy stem and handlebar. I picked up one [1978] in a 3-speed last year in Florida and was able to check one bike off my "bucket list"... the 3-speeds are pretty rare; most were 10 or 5 speed.
@gmouchawar you scored a very desirable bike IMO and it looks to be in pretty good shape. Best of all, you didn't get it from a bike flipper who thought the rims would look better in black:

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=438788

gmouchawar 03-12-15 10:12 PM


Originally Posted by PalmettoUpstate (Post 17626568)
Au contraire; it does have the herons on the chainwheel. Add to your list of differences a rear reflector integrated into the OEM Pletscher rack, alloy stem and handlebar. I picked up one [1978] in a 3-speed last year in Florida and was able to check one bike off my "bucket list"... the 3-speeds are pretty rare; most were 10 or 5 speed.
@gmouchawar you scored a very desirable bike IMO and it looks to be in pretty good shape. Best of all, you didn't get it from a bike flipper who thought the rims would look better in black:

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=438788

Thanks very much. I see that yours still has the white tail on the rear fender. Is yours 1977? or is mine later than 1978. I am probably jinxing it since its still on route, but I also checked off 3-speed from my bucket list. Like many of you this is n=n+1. I may have to sell a Schwinn Tempo to keep the spousal unit happy.
BTW I see rust on the handle bar, so it can't be alloy (as in Aluminum). Also I have a Brooks B72 ready for it to replace that ugly seat. I will update the post with pictures when I get it sometimes next week.

PalmettoUpstate 03-12-15 10:18 PM


Originally Posted by gmouchawar (Post 17626455)
So after lurking on the 3-speed here for some time, I bit the bullet and bought one on ebay:
Vintage Raleigh Men Road Bike
Doing some research, it appears to be a 1978 Spirit. How are these different from the sports. Other than the rack they appear identical.
I don't have it yet. It is in transit to CA from FL. I have my fingers crossed for it being packed well and arriving without UPS induced dents.
I am also hoping its the 27" model for tire availability.
Please feel free to comment on my new to me 3 speed and many thanks.

I took a lookabout thru the catalogs for the years when a 3-speed Sprite 27 was available in "Coffee" and my research was inconclusive as to what year your bike is. It appears to have a steel handlebar vs. the alloy one on my 1978 Emerald Green bike and it has the true "hockey stick" chain guard along with the non-reinforced "Heron" chain ring so maybe you can narrow it down by going thru the catalogs at the link below and sorting it out.

I think you'll really, really enjoy the bike; it's a little lighter than a Sports thus should be a little snappier in stop and go. I'm really looking forward to getting to mine soon.

Raleigh Catalog Database Archive

desconhecido 03-12-15 10:20 PM


Originally Posted by PalmettoUpstate (Post 17626568)
Au contraire; it does have the herons on the chainwheel. Add to your list of differences a rear reflector integrated into the OEM Pletscher rack, alloy stem and handlebar. I picked up one [1978] in a 3-speed last year in Florida and was able to check one bike off my "bucket list"... the 3-speeds are pretty rare; most were 10 or 5 speed.
@gmouchawar you scored a very desirable bike IMO and it looks to be in pretty good shape. Best of all, you didn't get it from a bike flipper who thought the rims would look better in black:

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=438788

Right you are on the chainwheel -- my mistake.

Bars on the bike appear to be steel and that doesn't look like an original stem. Is it like the stem on yours? I'd take a close look at the stem/bar combination as the steel bars are smaller in diameter, probably, than what that alloy stem is designed for. It may or may not be an issue, but should be checked and is not a hard, or expensive, problem to address.

PalmettoUpstate 03-12-15 10:20 PM


Originally Posted by gmouchawar (Post 17626591)
Thanks very much. I see that yours still has the white tail on the rear fender. Is yours 1977? or is mine later than 1978. I am probably jinxing it since its still on route, but I also checked off 3-speed from my bucket list. Like many of you this is n=n+1. I may have to sell a Schwinn Tempo to keep the spousal unit happy.
BTW I see rust on the handle bar, so it can't be alloy (as in Aluminum). Also I have a Brooks B72 ready for it to replace that ugly seat. I will update the post with pictures when I get it sometimes next week.

Ha-ha. Cross posting; you'd already noticed the steel handlebar...

PalmettoUpstate 03-12-15 10:25 PM


Originally Posted by desconhecido (Post 17626606)
Bars on the bike appear to be steel and that doesn't look like an original stem. Is it like the stem on yours? I'd take a close look at the stem/bar combination as the steel bars are smaller in diameter, probably, than what that alloy stem is designed for. It may or may not be an issue, but should be checked and is not a hard, or expensive, problem to address.

gmouchawar http://www.bikeforums.net/images/but...post-right.png's stem looks like the one on mine. He noted the non-white tail and that would indicate to me that the bike he has is later than mine but then you have the chain guard issue and his appears to be the hockey stick w/o the lower "bulge" as on mine.

desconhecido 03-12-15 10:36 PM


Originally Posted by PalmettoUpstate (Post 17626615)
gmouchawar http://www.bikeforums.net/images/but...post-right.png's stem looks like the one on mine. He noted the non-white tail and that would indicate to me that the bike he has is later than mine but then you have the chain guard issue and his appears to be the hockey stick w/o the lower "bulge" as on mine.

All the Raleighs (five) that we have with steel bars have steel stems. Because of some discussion here, a while back I measured four of the bars' clamp area and found them to be all a bit different, but close. Too small for an aluminum stem designed for 25.4 mm, though.

BigChief 03-13-15 05:37 AM


Originally Posted by desconhecido (Post 17626432)
Seems to fit into the "if it's not broke" category. If you try to replace it, you might find that you've opened a can of headset worms.

The first issue is one of fit. Stack height, head tube ID, and crown race ID. If you can find someone familiar with what Phillips was doing back in the mid 50s, you can probably get that info. But, the better way would be to measure and in order to do that, you have to take the thing down to individual parts, in my opinion. Certainly don't want to get a headset which requires more steerer than you have.

Then, there is the thread issue. Because the Nottingham Raleighs (and their "brand engineered" clones) are what most of us in this thread are working on, we tend to think of the 26 tpi thread thing. But, if my understanding is correct, that was mostly a Nottingham thing and bikes built by Raleigh at Worksop (Carlton) had 24 tpi, just like downtown. I've never heard of any English bike but a Nottingham Raleigh having anything but 24 tpi threaded steerers. So, that Ebay headset (which seems like a bargain to me, if it's a 26 tpi headset) may or may not work for you. (Thread gauges are nice. I bought one from Amazon which has both tpi and metric for less than $7 delivered. Looks like the cheapest available now is about $13 delivered. They are handy and easily used to impress your friends. Cheap ones are ok -- you don't need Starrett quality.)


then, if you are correct that these headsets were used to compensate for less than optimal machining, then, there's a good chance that the head tube on your Phillips will need to be properly prepped before a common variety threaded headset can be installed. This is not a big deal if you have a shop that can do such things (we do in Houston, but not many). To properly face the headtube, maybe ream the ID, set the races, cut the fork to length -- a well equipped bike shop probably has $1000 or more in tools to do this and it will cost $30 to $75 (estimate) depending on who does it and what has to be done.

So, when you have a hammer, everything looks like a nail. When you have a lathe, everything looks like a mallet:
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=438781

Very true! I do always think Nottingham. Every English bike I've ever owned and worked on has been a Raleigh with Raleigh threads no matter what name was on the head badge. I tend to forget some brands survived on their own. And, I seem to be unfamiliar with the type of headset VV has. I only saw what I thought was a horribly worn top cup and those cups would fit.

nlerner 03-13-15 07:01 AM


Originally Posted by Salubrious (Post 17626408)
Why not just build up the wheel using a Raleigh hub?

That would make sense. I have several already-built 700c and 27" wheels with S-A hubs (or other IGHs), and I even found a 36-hole hub shell in my stash if I want to build a new wheel, but I'm mostly trying to do this project on the cheap as the bike's not my size, and the plan is to sell it off. I also think I'd rather file the hub axles down to fit rather than file the dropouts for the sake of frame posterity.


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