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-   -   For the love of English 3 speeds... (https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=623699)

w1gfh 05-14-16 07:24 PM


Originally Posted by Loose Chain (Post 18768023)
For posterity, I agree the 17/18 tooth cogs are too steep for most uses but the 22, lol, it is a little on the low side. I would recommend a 20 for anyone who is still a strong cyclist as I can wind out now in my driveway and sparrows are passing me. But, 22 it is for now, it will be okay (maybe). Both bikes are rolling fine now, had a gravel road shakedown ride. We live on a gravel road. Kansas is kind of backwards in that unless the area pays "specials" there is no sewage or paved roads and since the special taxes are rather high, well, we all have gravel roads. Imagine, some people have to go look for gravel, I have to look for pavement! Yeah, 22 is too low, my opinion.

+1
I put a 20T on the Sports and find it's the ideal gearing - at least for me.

BigChief 05-14-16 08:08 PM


Originally Posted by w1gfh (Post 18768182)
+1
I put a 20T on the Sports and find it's the ideal gearing - at least for me.

One of the nice things about the Sturmey Archer system is that you can change the overall gearing to your preference without a lot of effort or expense.

SirMike1983 05-14-16 09:22 PM

An older shifter is fine. They usually look nicer and work a bit better. The question is whether you want the upside down type, or the standard type. An earlier part will look perfectly fine on the bike. It's the later ones with the cheesy black or white covers that will look out of place.


Originally Posted by slowtostart (Post 18767085)
Thanks for the info. I need a pulley and fulcrum sleeve. Both are plastic on the '71 Dunelt. The fulcrum sleeve is disintegrating.

As for my shifter cable conundrum, I purchased "Sunlite Three-Speed Cables" with a 60" housing X 65" inner wire. The package includes "Adjusting hardware". "Fits Sturmey Archer". Nothing ventured, nothing learned. I'll be very happy if it functions. This was a very LBS experience. They were quite sure I should replace the shifter as well. I've paid less for Craigslist bicycles and happy to explore that solution.

I have a shifter archive dating from 1956 to 1974. Anyone know why "Sturmey Archer" appears upside down on the shifters? Fits the shape of the face plate?

Is it blasphemy to replace a more modern shifter with a better quality one of an earlier vintage?

I am ever thankful for the guidance you continue to offer. Time to plant tomatoes.

STS


agmetal 05-14-16 09:24 PM

Just got home from picking up some bits for my two Tourists: An 8-volt DynoHub, non-reflector pedals, and Lucas tail reflector for the 1937, and a front brake stirrup for the 1975 DL-1 project bike (I'll be returning the one that doesn't fit). Tomorrow or Monday I'm going back to get a pair of rims and maybe a couple other little things.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...514_225949.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...514_230021.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...514_230043.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...514_230112.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...514_230121.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...514_230150.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...514_230201.jpg

Loose Chain 05-14-16 10:41 PM


Originally Posted by w1gfh (Post 18768182)
+1
I put a 20T on the Sports and find it's the ideal gearing - at least for me.

My wife seems okay with the 22t cog. I am definitely under geared but since I will mostly be in no hurry, especially with her in tow I do not feel the need to immediately change it. Heck, who knows, in another 10 years I may appreciate it ;).

We did about five miles on our (improved) gravel roads today. I am impressed with how confidently these E3Ss handle the gravel, very smooth. Though, mine is a touch twitchy, it needs a longer stem, they all do if you ask me. But, very smooth. New chains, fresh grease, clean oil in the hubs, new tires, Sun rims and these two E3Ss just ghosted along, a gentle clicking from the AW hub and the swoosh of stainless spokes glistening in the sun, cannot be any better.

I notice something on the step through 21, the seat tube is 21 c/t and the effective TT is 21 c/c. The 21 diamond frame seat tube is 21 c/t and the TT is a skosh over 22 c/c. My 23 diamond frame seat tube is just under 23 c/t and the TT is a skosh UNDER 22 c/c. In my universe the 23 is smaller by a little than my 21!

J

Velocivixen 05-14-16 10:56 PM

Miss Molly's problem was not the clutch spring, but the shifter. Specifically having to do with the pawl and spring. Used a screwdriver to pry it up, not it just hangs there loosey goosey. I had another one exactly the same only with a yellowed plastic face plate. Used that shifter and other clear face plate and all is well with the world.

With th the flick shifter the way to install a cable is to pull the trigger down past "1" and an internal part of the shifter forces open the pawl just enough to guide the cable into place. Well that wasn't happening on the original shifter. So somehow that made it so going from "2" to "3" I had to actively push the lever into place. Now I just flick the lever and it clicks right into place.

agmetal 05-14-16 11:54 PM


Originally Posted by Velocivixen (Post 18768546)
Miss Molly's problem was not the clutch spring, but the shifter. Specifically having to do with the pawl and spring. Used a screwdriver to pry it up, not it just hangs there loosey goosey. I had another one exactly the same only with a yellowed plastic face plate. Used that shifter and other clear face plate and all is well with the world.

With th the flick shifter the way to install a cable is to pull the trigger down past "1" and an internal part of the shifter forces open the pawl just enough to guide the cable into place. Well that wasn't happening on the original shifter. So somehow that made it so going from "2" to "3" I had to actively push the lever into place. Now I just flick the lever and it clicks right into place.


Glad you figured it out! On my first adult bike (a Columbia Sports III), I used to have problems all the time with the cable end popping out of the shifter - as a result, I've had a bad taste in my mouth regarding the "classic trigger" shifter ever since.

Narhay 05-15-16 02:02 AM

I had two flat tires on Wednesday. The rim tape wasn't wide enough and poked holes in both my tubes. I repaired them, adjusted the rear hub, replaced the rim tape with some I didn't know I had and tossed the chain in the ultrasonic cleaner. I did add the Zimbale bag to the bike last month. I like the size but it does hang at a funny angle and I can hit it with the back of my legs if I want to. It is fine otherwise and excellent quality.

http://i1037.photobucket.com/albums/...psrryv03qe.jpg

http://i1037.photobucket.com/albums/...psyfnotevu.jpg

http://i1037.photobucket.com/albums/...pseeesftfw.jpg

streets 05-15-16 03:01 AM

@Narhay That Superbe is stunning. I had an Elswick Hopper in a very similar colour and when as clean as yours it really turned heads. Compliments the chrome perfectly.

gster 05-15-16 05:29 AM


Originally Posted by Narhay (Post 18768745)
I had two flat tires on Wednesday. The rim tape wasn't wide enough and poked holes in both my tubes. I repaired them, adjusted the rear hub, replaced the rim tape with some I didn't know I had and tossed the chain in the ultrasonic cleaner. I did add the Zimbale bag to the bike last month. I like the size but it does hang at a funny angle and I can hit it with the back of my legs if I want to. It is fine otherwise and excellent quality.

http://i1037.photobucket.com/albums/...psrryv03qe.jpg

http://i1037.photobucket.com/albums/...psyfnotevu.jpg

http://i1037.photobucket.com/albums/...pseeesftfw.jpg

Your bike looks like it just left the factory.

w1gfh 05-15-16 07:46 AM


Originally Posted by Velocivixen (Post 18768546)
Miss Molly's problem was not the clutch spring, but the shifter. Specifically having to do with the pawl and spring. Used a screwdriver to pry it up, not it just hangs there loosey goosey. I had another one exactly the same only with a yellowed plastic face plate. Used that shifter and other clear face plate and all is well with the world.

With th the flick shifter the way to install a cable is to pull the trigger down past "1" and an internal part of the shifter forces open the pawl just enough to guide the cable into place. Well that wasn't happening on the original shifter. So somehow that made it so going from "2" to "3" I had to actively push the lever into place. Now I just flick the lever and it clicks right into place.

Hooray for Flick and Click functionality!

w1gfh 05-15-16 07:49 AM


Originally Posted by Narhay (Post 18768745)
I had two flat tires on Wednesday. The rim tape wasn't wide enough and poked holes in both my tubes. I repaired them, adjusted the rear hub, replaced the rim tape with some I didn't know I had and tossed the chain in the ultrasonic cleaner. I did add the Zimbale bag to the bike last month. I like the size but it does hang at a funny angle and I can hit it with the back of my legs if I want to. It is fine otherwise and excellent quality.

Truly a superb Superbe!

w1gfh 05-15-16 08:00 AM

New question: I need to service the front hub on my 3 speed 68 Sports. Would like to replace and grease the bearings. Can I buy the 3/16" ball bearings (10 each side) somewhere convenient like Ace, Lowe's, Home Depot (or other hardware store) or must I make the trafficky drive to a vintage bike specialist like Harris Cyclery in the city?

nlerner 05-15-16 08:10 AM


Originally Posted by w1gfh (Post 18769046)
New question: I need to service the front hub on my 3 speed 68 Sports. Would like to replace and grease the bearings. Can I buy the 3/16" ball bearings (10 each side) somewhere convenient like Ace, Lowe's, Home Depot (or other hardware store) or must I make the trafficky drive to a vintage bike specialist like Harris Cyclery in the city?

The bike ride from Lexington to West Newton can be quite nice!

I've never looked for bbs at the big box hardware stores, but it might be worth a call to see what they have. Also, a local hardware store might actually stock them. But if you can wait, I'd just order online. Lots of vendors on eBay or Amazon.

BigChief 05-15-16 08:23 AM


Originally Posted by w1gfh (Post 18769046)
New question: I need to service the front hub on my 3 speed 68 Sports. Would like to replace and grease the bearings. Can I buy the 3/16" ball bearings (10 each side) somewhere convenient like Ace, Lowe's, Home Depot (or other hardware store) or must I make the trafficky drive to a vintage bike specialist like Harris Cyclery in the city?

My favorite source of ball bearings is
Ballbaron.com

arex 05-15-16 08:26 AM

Beautiful bike.


Originally Posted by Narhay (Post 18768745)
I had two flat tires on Wednesday. The rim tape wasn't wide enough and poked holes in both my tubes. I repaired them, adjusted the rear hub, replaced the rim tape with some I didn't know I had and tossed the chain in the ultrasonic cleaner. I did add the Zimbale bag to the bike last month. I like the size but it does hang at a funny angle and I can hit it with the back of my legs if I want to. It is fine otherwise and excellent quality.

http://i1037.photobucket.com/albums/...psrryv03qe.jpg

http://i1037.photobucket.com/albums/...psyfnotevu.jpg

http://i1037.photobucket.com/albums/...pseeesftfw.jpg


Slash5 05-15-16 08:42 AM

1 Attachment(s)
On the local buy and sell. A rebadged 20?

http://www.bikeforums.net/attachment...5&d=1463323336

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=521755

Narsinha 05-15-16 09:26 AM

Some phantastic old bicycles to see here!

Still same problems.. have posted some photos, maybe someone can give a hint whether this is ok or not (order of mounting nuts, shims, stays)

Diagonal stay from saddle, racket stay and mudguard stays loos, have all to be mounted at the upper screw, NOT on the axle as i found out the hard way:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y17...ps2xi8x46f.jpg


Same as above with screw. Screw is too short, prone to ruining the thread in the longeron. Also realiozed the screws do not fit to the threads, they had been srewed on with brute force, ruining either the screw or the outer thread

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y17...psfeak0cag.jpg


All from the rear: Is this order of nut/shim etc. right? Please! Can someone tell

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y17...psqgh1t1di.jpg


And the right side, does the square locking tin "screw" directly touch the inner longeron, or does a shim have to be placed there?

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y17...psmtwwhn1g.jpg

Please, i am becoming less sure everytime i try to assemble this .. :cry:

3speedslow 05-15-16 10:31 AM


Originally Posted by Slash5 (Post 18769142)

Did you buy? Would be sacrilege if Dawes, who was in competition with Raleigh, used someone else's frame. I vote no.

Slash5 05-15-16 10:32 AM

No, it's about 2 hrs away. I didn't notice the brace to the headtube before so obviously not a 20.

Velocivixen 05-15-16 11:34 AM

I think you should get it....just for fun. IF it's not crazy spendy.

arex 05-15-16 11:51 AM


Originally Posted by Slash5 (Post 18769377)
No, it's about 2 hrs away. I didn't notice the brace to the headtube before so obviously not a 20.

The hinge is different, too.

w1gfh 05-15-16 03:00 PM


Originally Posted by nlerner (Post 18769070)
The bike ride from Lexington to West Newton can be quite nice!

I've never looked for bbs at the big box hardware stores, but it might be worth a call to see what they have. Also, a local hardware store might actually stock them. But if you can wait, I'd just order online. Lots of vendors on eBay or Amazon.

I went to the local ACE hardware and found them in the bins for 20 cents ea. Thanx for the tip, Neal.

markk900 05-15-16 03:49 PM


Originally Posted by w1gfh (Post 18769922)
I went to the local ACE hardware and found them in the bins for 20 cents ea. Thanx for the tip, Neal.

You are lucky - some of the local BBS's around here used to carry ball bearings years ago, but no more....when I need them I usually just go to the local bike shop and buy what I need from them. Not usually $0.20 each mind you, but not too bad.

Loose Chain 05-15-16 07:05 PM

Both Ace and TruValue have been known to carry ball bearings. But each store is somewhat unique so it is not always the case. However, I am running BBs from TruValue in both my running E3Ss.

On these North Road bars, should the handle grip section be parallel to the TT, up or down? I had mine level and that seemed maybe a little awkward (maybe, maybe not) so I have rotated then down ever so slight. How do you guys set yours?

On those mattress type saddles with the springs under the saddle piece, do you set them higher than normal because the springs compress lowering effective saddle height?

Velocivixen 05-15-16 11:37 PM

I did an overhaul of an AW 3-speed. I just love doing these. It's very relaxing.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7438/...cf16f58a8d.jpgDriver by velocivixen, on https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7150/...87af55bf8b.jpgBall Ring by velocivixen, on https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7494/...c50cb381d2.jpgGear Ring by velocivixen, on https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7715/...f3537c3a5e.jpgPlanet Cage with Sun Pinions by velocivixen, on https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7009/...dcf8148be6.jpgAssembled outside Hub Shell by velocivixen, on https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7775/...c8c3c62f7a.jpgLeft & Right Cones, lock washers, etc. by velocivixen, on Flickr

shadaboot28 05-16-16 04:42 AM


Originally Posted by Narsinha (Post 18769230)
Some phantastic old bicycles to see here!

Still same problems.. have posted some photos, maybe someone can give a hint whether this is ok or not (order of mounting nuts, shims, stays)

Diagonal stay from saddle, racket stay and mudguard stays loos, have all to be mounted at the upper screw, NOT on the axle as i found out the hard way:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y17...ps2xi8x46f.jpg


Same as above with screw. Screw is too short, prone to ruining the thread in the longeron. Also realiozed the screws do not fit to the threads, they had been srewed on with brute force, ruining either the screw or the outer thread

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y17...psfeak0cag.jpg


All from the rear: Is this order of nut/shim etc. right? Please! Can someone tell

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y17...psqgh1t1di.jpg


And the right side, does the square locking tin "screw" directly touch the inner longeron, or does a shim have to be placed there?

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y17...psmtwwhn1g.jpg

Please, i am becoming less sure everytime i try to assemble this .. :cry:


No you have done it wrong. The rack and mudguard stays should both bolt onto the rear hub axle.

Commando 05-16-16 04:50 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Though my Raleigh Superbe has been officially retired from kid hauling duty (have built a Miyata Valley Runner with tagalong trailer for that now), I still want to keep my daughter riding a 3 speed. This came in to the community workshop a couple of weeks ago and I just had to have it. Not a typical kids bike, instead, a scaled down version of a full size ride. Never heard of Swiss Olympic before, but the AW is stamped 1986. Hopefully, once she's comfortable enough to get on her own 2 wheeler, she'll be interested in it, at least it's pink!

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=521961

BigChief 05-16-16 06:38 AM


Originally Posted by shadaboot28 (Post 18771160)
No you have done it wrong. The rack and mudguard stays should both bolt onto the rear hub axle.

Every DL-1 I've ever seen has plain wire fender stays bent in a loop that goes on the axle. This one has a tab brazed on that looks like it wouldn't clear the seat stay if you put it on the axle.

BigChief 05-16-16 06:49 AM


Originally Posted by Velocivixen (Post 18771039)
I did an overhaul of an AW 3-speed. I just love doing these. It's very relaxing.

I like this job too. Although, I might be slipping. When I cleaned up the hub on my latest project, the ball ring cap wouldn't budge. I have to admit, I didn't bother fighting with it to properly clean and replace the bearings. I just soaked it in paint thinner, sprayed it out with the air gun, stuffed in some grease and called it good. There is still that little voice in my head admonishing me for taking short cuts, but it's not as loud as it used to be.


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