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-   -   For the love of English 3 speeds... (https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=623699)

SirMike1983 09-18-19 07:37 AM

When I lived in the MD/VA/DC area, the riding was mostly flat. There were lots of bike/pedestrian trails there and lots of suburban development type areas where you could ride relatively safely. If you left those areas and went on the main roads, you ran a real risk of being hit by a car. But there were so many nice bike trails and quiet subdivisions that you had decent options.

I moved back to western New England early in 2019. There is a lot less traffic, but more hills. I do more over-the-road type riding here because if you know your route, the traffic isn't too bad. But you do stay off the main, state roads.

One interesting thing is that the drivers in the DC-area were more generically "aggressive" but also usually more aware of what to do about bikes and pedestrians. We have fewer bikes and pedestrians here in rural New England, so the drivers are much more unpredictable when they come into close contact with a bike or walker.

BigChief 09-18-19 07:52 AM

Just an update on my experiment with replacing Sturmey Archer's zinc (or whatever it is) plating on a thoroughly rusted surface. I discovered Action Magic dry lubricant back in my tool and die maker days. I noticed that besides lubricating, it prevented rust. I had been using it to cover rust spots on trigger shifter cases, but there it was usually only small rusty spots starting to poke through the finish. On this guide wheel, the plating was completely gone leaving nothing but a brown rusted surface. I didn't remove the surface rust. The silver Action Magic powder is so fine that it sinks into the rust and bonds with it. I lightly burnished it it with a wooden match stick. At first, the finish looked new and bright, but now after almost a year, it has darkened and shows no sign of rust. I'm pleased with it. Even looking closely, you would never guess this finish had been restored.
last summer

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...9b494b6234.jpg
and today:

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...284a417043.jpg

BigChief 09-18-19 08:25 AM


Originally Posted by SirMike1983 (Post 21127568)
When I lived in the MD/VA/DC area, the riding was mostly flat. There were lots of bike/pedestrian trails there and lots of suburban development type areas where you could ride relatively safely. If you left those areas and went on the main roads, you ran a real risk of being hit by a car. But there were so many nice bike trails and quiet subdivisions that you had decent options.

I moved back to western New England early in 2019. There is a lot less traffic, but more hills. I do more over-the-road type riding here because if you know your route, the traffic isn't too bad. But you do stay off the main, state roads.

One interesting thing is that the drivers in the DC-area were more generically "aggressive" but also usually more aware of what to do about bikes and pedestrians. We have fewer bikes and pedestrians here in rural New England, so the drivers are much more unpredictable when they come into close contact with a bike or walker.

The rural New England paved roads are very dangerous to ride. They are curvy and narrow with no shoulders, lots broken pavement, washouts and pot holes at the edges. Lots of blind dips and curves. And that just where a car will come up behind you while a giant Peterbilt loaded with logs, using up 3/4s of the road is staring you in the face. On the other hand, there's some new bike trails usually along river banks where train tracks used to be that are wonderful to ride. And the coastal villages are fun.

Salubrious 09-18-19 02:08 PM

The Twin Cities compete with Portland for being one of the most bike-friendly metro areas. There are a lot of bike pathways being added all the time. OTOH I see people on bikes doing really stupid stuff like riding with no lights, poking along side by side on busy throughfares and other things guaranteed to make cagers upset. But there are plenty of back streets and not much in the way of hills so you can do almost any hill in the Twin Cities with a 3 or 4 speed bike.

gster 09-18-19 05:29 PM

1955 Humber Sports
Picked up today at a reasonable price....
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d12112dd84.jpg
A bit of a mess but otherwise a decent frame and chain ring.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...3501db02eb.jpg
As Clubman mentioned earlier, it does have the EA1 rims...
with Dunlop Ranger tires mounted.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...8c6c936577.jpg

Rims are fair and may clean up.
One caliper missing
Stem and bars are crap
Paint and decals are presentable.
Trigger was somewhat modern (i.e plastic face/missing)
Cable stop and guide are nice.
Hub is dirty but seems to function.

On the other hand..
The vendor in Hamilton had two VERY nice his and hers 20"s
$150.00 a piece.

Bomarc 09-18-19 06:17 PM

Nice bike! - there can't be many 1950's Humbers around. From your description, it sounds like it would be straightforward to clean it up and bring it back to life. Sweet!

clubman 09-18-19 07:30 PM

@gster I think your bike's all original and pretty unique for a Humber. Check to see if it's lacking scratches and clamp marks for a chainguard. That's how my Raleigh Canadian came to me. No chainguard or mudguards, EA1 wheels, steel drop bars and late model Raleigh 'Clubman' pedals. Same setup. Those spiral two-tone cable covers were popular in the 50's as well. Big frame is rare too, very cool.

gster 09-18-19 08:03 PM


Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 21127604)
Just an update on my experiment with replacing Sturmey Archer's zinc (or whatever it is) plating on a thoroughly rusted surface. I discovered Action Magic dry lubricant back in my tool and die maker days. I noticed that besides lubricating, it prevented rust. I had been using it to cover rust spots on trigger shifter cases, but there it was usually only small rusty spots starting to poke through the finish. On this guide wheel, the plating was completely gone leaving nothing but a brown rusted surface. I didn't remove the surface rust. The silver Action Magic powder is so fine that it sinks into the rust and bonds with it. I lightly burnished it it with a wooden match stick. At first, the finish looked new and bright, but now after almost a year, it has darkened and shows no sign of rust. I'm pleased with it. Even looking closely, you would never guess this finish had been restored.
last summer

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...9b494b6234.jpg
and today:

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...284a417043.jpg

That's a very good tutorial.
Thx

thumpism 09-18-19 08:14 PM


Originally Posted by paulb_in_bkln (Post 21127550)
When I was a kid I used to complain that if I liked a tv show it was a sure thing to be canceled.

My wife has killed several writers by binge-reading all their books.

gster 09-19-19 05:42 AM


Originally Posted by clubman (Post 21128610)
@gster I think your bike's all original and pretty unique for a Humber. Check to see if it's lacking scratches and clamp marks for a chainguard. That's how my Raleigh Canadian came to me. No chainguard or mudguards, EA1 wheels, steel drop bars and late model Raleigh 'Clubman' pedals. Same setup. Those spiral two-tone cable covers were popular in the 50's as well. Big frame is rare too, very cool.

Thanks for the info.
I'll look for lack of scratches.
I agree that it was/is a special bike.
Looks as if it's been in a garage for years.
I've got a vice NOS GB stem that will work,
and a Brooks Swallow saddle...
Still haven't been down to the LBS to find tires
for these rims.

gster 09-19-19 06:08 AM


Originally Posted by clubman (Post 21128610)
@gster I think your bike's all original and pretty unique for a Humber. Check to see if it's lacking scratches and clamp marks for a chainguard. That's how my Raleigh Canadian came to me. No chainguard or mudguards, EA1 wheels, steel drop bars and late model Raleigh 'Clubman' pedals. Same setup. Those spiral two-tone cable covers were popular in the 50's as well. Big frame is rare too, very cool.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...145e4e74b3.jpg

Ged117 09-19-19 07:20 AM

Noisy 'hood ornament'
 
Hi fellows,

Please see the culprit in the photo. I've managed to find and fix all of the rattles on the '50 Superbe. Everything is nice and tight now. However the ornament end of the front fender rattles loudly. Has anyone else had this problem? It's only a little loose. How to tighten it? A tiny bit of glue underneath perhaps?

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d2c4bedc0a.jpg


Also on the AG: High and Normal gear feel almost the same...is that to be expected?The adjustment of the cable has taken longer than I thought. I'll think it is almost there or is adjusted properly and then it will slip suddenly. I might have it now.

Salubrious 09-19-19 09:20 AM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 21128465)
1955 Humber Sports
Picked up today at a reasonable price....
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d12112dd84.jpg

The Humbers in the 1950s employed a lug that held the shift pulley. Not sure when that ended but apparently before this frame was built. Another thing to look for is the Humber 'H' in the headlight mount.

gster 09-19-19 09:56 AM


Originally Posted by Salubrious (Post 21129142)
The Humbers in the 1950s employed a lug that held the shift pulley. Not sure when that ended but apparently before this frame was built. Another thing to look for is the Humber 'H' in the headlight mount.

Closer examination of the frame reveals some details..
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...41b971fab5.jpg
Pulley lug in place.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...7221bc216e.jpg
Nice head badge.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d5655f68cd.jpg
Lamp bracket
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...73b6277f29.jpg
Chaincase lug
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1051d9445f.jpg
Maypole chain ring..
The bike came apart easily and the cotters slipped out
like butter...
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a23f5e5ea7.jpg
Serial number 4757 RC

Salubrious 09-19-19 10:28 AM

Sweet. The oil port on the bottom bracket is a good clue also.

BigChief 09-19-19 12:44 PM


Originally Posted by Salubrious (Post 21129238)
Sweet. The oil port on the bottom bracket is a good clue also.

The frame is exactly the same as my 55 Rudge. To the best of my knowledge, Raleigh only used this style lug shape from 1955-56. I have one of those frame mount guide wheels ... somewhere.

gster 09-19-19 02:05 PM


Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 21129416)
The frame is exactly the same as my 55 Rudge. To the best of my knowledge, Raleigh only used this style lug shape from 1955-56. I have one of those frame mount guide wheels ... somewhere.

As I clean and work on this bike I'm more impressed.
At first glance it looked like the rims were too rusty to clean
but a couple of hours with a brass brush and vinegar they look great.
Another detail, rims are stamped "Jointless 26" EA1 made in England Palmer"
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0c4b1cff8a.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...719da28904.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...af23768aba.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...fa3b6dac1c.jpg
The tubes hold air and the tires are actually OK....

gster 09-19-19 03:32 PM


Originally Posted by BocaJr (Post 21126960)
Just finished the Robin Hood Sports. I must admit it has been 'Raleigh-fied' to some extent. A Raleigh crankset, headlamp bracket and seatpost binder bolt. I've been cruising mostly in 1st gear and sometimes 2nd gear. I might have to get that rear 22T cog. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...6271ff42a5.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...be3f712f27.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ca45663a6c.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...51e1caa226.jpg

Another Black Bomber.
Nice work.

gster 09-19-19 04:12 PM


Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 21129416)
The frame is exactly the same as my 55 Rudge. To the best of my knowledge, Raleigh only used this style lug shape from 1955-56. I have one of those frame mount guide wheels ... somewhere.

BC, could you post a photo of the other side of the guide wheel?
g

paulb_in_bkln 09-19-19 05:27 PM


Originally Posted by thumpism (Post 21126971)
I posted about a junk shop nearby with a pretty little Hercules ladies' 3-speed that is rusting away outside with several other bikes. I went by again today and it's still there joined by another one just like it. You can see the original at the top right of this photo, with the rusty front rim and the speedo hub drive visible. The new one is the same color, same frame size, same chrome fenders, same white pedals, same Sturmey AW. Rims are nicer than the other but the frame finish is a little worse. This one has the original Wright's seat, the chainguard and the front rack. I don't need either one of them and don't have the space but I'd purely hate to see them keep rusting away, as I'm afraid they surely will.

What are you gonna do? I've lost count of the number going derelict around here. Recently discovered another on Dekalb Ave. I'm debating whether to take the back wheel. (I probably will.) How many AW hubs do I need? (No need to answer.)

paulb_in_bkln 09-19-19 05:31 PM


Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 21127604)
Just an update on my experiment with replacing Sturmey Archer's zinc (or whatever it is) plating on a thoroughly rusted surface. I discovered Action Magic dry lubricant back in my tool and die maker days. I noticed that besides lubricating, it prevented rust. I had been using it to cover rust spots on trigger shifter cases, but there it was usually only small rusty spots starting to poke through the finish. On this guide wheel, the plating was completely gone leaving nothing but a brown rusted surface. I didn't remove the surface rust. The silver Action Magic powder is so fine that it sinks into the rust and bonds with it. I lightly burnished it it with a wooden match stick. At first, the finish looked new and bright, but now after almost a year, it has darkened and shows no sign of rust. I'm pleased with it. Even looking closely, you would never guess this finish had been restored.
last summer and today:

Magic is right.

paulb_in_bkln 09-19-19 05:34 PM


Originally Posted by thumpism (Post 21128654)
My wife has killed several writers by binge-reading all their books.

For a writer probably not the worst way to go.

clubman 09-19-19 05:38 PM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 21129191)
Serial number 4757 RC

RC's are almost always Canadian market at least in the 50's and early 60's. RA's for the US and RB's for the UK imo.

You've got a great bike there. Red Raleigh Sports were definitely a thing up here, I've had 4 of them, still have 2.

gster 09-19-19 06:58 PM


Originally Posted by clubman (Post 21129818)
RC's are almost always Canadian market at least in the 50's and early 60's. RA's for the US and RB's for the UK imo.

You've got a great bike there. Red Raleigh Sports were definitely a thing up here, I've had 4 of them, still have 2.

Thank you again for
good words and advice.
I'm starting to realize that these EA1 equipped bikes were/are something
special.
Whoever bought this bike back in 1955, was very serious
about riding/racing and chose this bike for a reason.
Probably more expensive than the other bikes on display
or, maybe a special custom order from the factory....
Ridden for many years and then put away until
the 70"s.
More to follow.

nlerner 09-19-19 07:36 PM


Originally Posted by Ged117 (Post 21128978)
Hi fellows,
Please see the culprit in the photo. I've managed to find and fix all of the rattles on the '50 Superbe. Everything is nice and tight now. However the ornament end of the front fender rattles loudly. Has anyone else had this problem? It's only a little loose. How to tighten it? A tiny bit of glue underneath perhaps?

Yeah, that's something I've encountered frequently. You can both 1) push down the tab on the underside of the fender for that nose piece and 2) slide some material under it and trim with an exacto knife. I've used plastic, metal, and wood for that purpose.

thumpism 09-19-19 08:27 PM


Originally Posted by paulb_in_bkln (Post 21129797)
What are you gonna do? I've lost count of the number going derelict around here. Recently discovered another on Dekalb Ave. I'm debating whether to take the back wheel. (I probably will.) How many AW hubs do I need? (No need to answer.)

Probably nothing. We are running out of space for anything else and I already have multiple non-bike projects awaiting my attention. Any bike-related projects are on the rearmost burner and will likely remain there or even be pushed further back. My wife's fleet is already for sale and the only female bikes to remain are the nifty Condor 3-speed I rescued that will serve as a guest bike and the boxed-up ladies' 23" Sports I'm keeping for my own dotage.

Sports
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...12beeddc4d.jpg

Condorhttps://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...4c17d737a4.jpg


If I knew a couple of sisters who needed bikes I would gladly get the two Hercs and fix them up for a new life of service but priced as they likely are (at least $50 each would be my guess based on previous inquiries--not outrageous but an extravagant expenditure on spec) I'd just have to stash them in the rafters until I decided what to do. I'm afraid the two little Hercs will be left to the elements. I wish the junk shop did not regard them as junk and leave them all outside.

gster 09-20-19 09:48 AM

1955 Humber Club
This bike cleaned up remarkably well in a day and a half
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...9298d32357.jpg
Not sure why the focus is off....
I'll probably keep it in the club style (thanks to Clubman's praise).
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c9bf516671.jpg
NOS GB stem.
The drop bars will limit my riding the bike but I think
it deserves to maintain it's heritage.
I'll have to find some later style Raleigh calipers for it.
I have some NOS cables in the garage.
Saddle and chain installed
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d3264aebed.jpg

thumpism 09-21-19 06:55 AM

For all you Humber fans.

https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/...983036996.html

Vintage Humbler Women's Bike - $100 (Woodland Heights)
bicycle frame material: other/unknown
bicycle type: cruiser
condition: fair
electric assist: none
frame size: 21"
make / manufacturer: Humbler
suspension: none (rigid)
wheel size: 24 in

Selling a 1950s British bicycle by the Humbler company. Brakes work but not sure if shifter functions correctly.

$50 or best offer.

Ballenxj 09-21-19 07:40 AM


Originally Posted by thumpism (Post 21131810)
For all you Humber fans.

https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/...983036996.html

Vintage Humbler Women's Bike - $100 (Woodland Heights)

<--(Picture)-->
bicycle frame material: other/unknown
bicycle type: cruiser
condition: fair
electric assist: none
frame size: 21"
make / manufacturer: Humbler
suspension: none (rigid)
wheel size: 24 in

Selling a 1950s British bicycle by the Humbler company. Brakes work but not sure if shifter functions correctly.

$50 or best offer.


Spell Check got the seller? I cannot think of any other reason to add the L, turning Humber, to Humbler? :lol:

gster 09-21-19 08:32 AM

1955 Humber Update
A good few hours yesterday
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a09bf47ee1.jpg
A visit to George at Parts Unknown yielded two Raleigh calipers. Rusty but a good vinegar/brass brush treatment cleaned them up.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...9b3d8f8aea.jpg
Vintage trigger from the parts bin is not quite period appropriate but will do for now.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...80115323ce.jpg
Brake cables and clips are NOS from Hoop Rider in Owen Sound.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...829ac028b5.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1d1cb0d499.jpg
Shifter cable is used and should be replaced.
Front hub needs some adjustment .
Current costs
Bike $110.00
Saddle $50.00
Stem $40.00
Brake cables and pads $20.00
Calipers $10.00
Clips $5.00
Supplies $10.00
Trigger and chain from stock
19T cog from stock as well.


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