had to switch out fenders since the original fender struts broke. I used walds with VO hardware.
Turned out ok.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8044/8...fb5bbb9e_z.jpg

They came from a flea market/antique market here in Toronto.

http://www.bikeforums.net/webkit-fak...DA8E/imagejpeg

This is the last Sports I dragged home. The hub is dated 1956.
Please forgive me if this photo is too large as I continue to explore this new toy.

No picture appeared! Back to the drawing board....

Good question! Noticed that too but never wondered aloud. Hope someone knows...

http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4bf77803.jpg

I said this would be the last one.

:roflmao2: that's funny, tell us another one!

PS the little red sports is sure purdy!

Yeah right... :rolleyes:

Pretty bike! Love the color!!!

The chrome fenders and overall polish make that bike look very up to date... I'll have to consider those fenders for my Sport.

I thought "cosmopolitan" and "sophisticated" when I saw it. Are those cork grips?

THANKS!
So far they have been pretty good, the bracket that connects to the brake bridge was rattling but I managed to put a couple of pieces of leather in the gap so no more rattle. Other than that I'm still fighting a bit with the fender line since the fenders were a little warped, which I thought was weird, but they are walds and for 19.99 I didn't care, I had to bend it back but it came out ok.

Yes cork grips on Nitto Promenade B-603's Im a bit tired of those bars it makes things a bit twitchy, once I upgraded to cr18's the tires seem narrower. So im probally going to change them to a regular north road bar.

here is a better pic of the cork grips and bars... and my average speed on a 3 speed.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8193/8...a58244ba_b.jpg

This is the "mystery" 3 speed From an earlier post. I also posted in "what's it worth", but no response so far. If you have any suggestions for value as a whole or parts, may I ask you to respond to either forum?

The hub is not dated and there is no other mark as to model. It measures 23", has 26" stainless wheels, and a locking front fork.

That is a Raleigh Dawn, from the brazed on pulley it is pre-60s, the lugs are pre-56, Sheldon Brown provides a 1949 exemplar with the same downtube decal.

Just picked this up last night-

http://i.imgur.com/nBAca.jpg

Hub is stamped 74, dyno hub and front light work- the rear light has a cracked bulb. Everything seems... actually kind of amazingly good other than the tires. I'm not looking to spend a ton, but I would like to get this thing rolling. Suggestions for a pair of 650A/1x1 3/8" tires below $40 shipped to me?

Edit: have the rear tire, just already had it off by the time I remembered to take a picture.

Looks very nice. Kenda K40s, Cheng Shin are available in EA3 590 size and are inexpensive. Michelin World Tour Costs a bit more. Someone on here recommended Rubena V66, but I don't know anything about them.
Here's a related thread: http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...ns-at-26x1-3-8

Don't really want to make a thread, so you're going to get it C&V 3 speed megathread.

Worked at the coop today. I knew I brought that old free spirit inside on sunday- it had a pair of Kenda tires in very good condition! I already have them mounted, and I've already taken this out- the dyno hub works, but the light is... well, it leaves a lot to be desired.

here's the bike as it stands-
http://i.imgur.com/LlGjzl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Ve3xfl.jpg

Love the potential of this thing-
http://i.imgur.com/rkcN4l.jpg

Even the cotters have the right nuts-
http://i.imgur.com/i3jq9l.jpg

Yup, 74
http://i.imgur.com/3MBj0l.jpg

Mega hipster cred. (guess CL buyers were offering to just buy the saddle from the seller, he wouldn't budge. That being said, I don't really like it.)
http://i.imgur.com/wFzvWl.jpg

Lots of cool, complete little details on this one-
http://i.imgur.com/REaERl.jpg

Early barrel? Either way, cool.
http://i.imgur.com/ZVcw0l.jpg

Couple questions- Is there a turnkey kit to run modern LED lighting with the old SA dyno? I'd love to have a standlight option. Google is helpful, but I could really use a solid answer. Also, the tail light is broken apart: option there as well?

Rear wheel: there's a sizeable dent (like someone tagged a curb at significant speed) in the rear rim, and I'm noticing that the spokes don't um, CROSS, at the cross. Is there a source for a new rim, and while I'm in there, is there someone that does some kind of restomod like putting shimano alfine internals into a SA shell? It'd be nice to keep vintage appearances, but gain some modern functionality. This is similar in spirit to the light upgrade.

I got this bike for $100. I mostly picked it up for my own academic curiosity- never dealt with a IGH and never dealt with a Dyno, so it seemed like a twofer.

Here is the 1962 Dunelt bike I picked up at a garage sale a couple blocks from my house on Saturday. It set me back $5. It appears to be all original including the tires which I will replace. The paint is in excellent condition as is the chrome. No rust or pitting with very few paint scratches. I just started to clean it up and there is a lot left to do. It came with a matching saddle bag that I need to clean up. The seat post and saddle were removed to clean up so I just put it on for the pictures. It is barely into the seat tube. Neither my wife or daughter want it so it will go up for sale next spring.

Yes, the barrel adjuster does micro-adjust the cable. Those levers are Raleigh's short-lived "self-adjusting brakes" (1973-76, I think). They are designed to gradually take up slack over time as the cable stretches and the pads wear. If you squeeze them really hard, you'll hear the ratchet clicking and adjusting. I have had good luck with them on my 73 which was barely used when i got it, but historically they were not popular due to headaches dealing with them when they don't work. So Raleigh discontinued them. Some owners replace them with regular levers (which I think requires a new cable, too, since you can't get that cable out). I added a few drops of 3-in-1 oil to each end of both brake cables, worked it in with brake lever motion, and let the bike sit upside down to allow the oil to drop into the cable at various angles. They work great (for now).

Nice bike!

The LED headlight retrofits are a DIY thing, rhm is your man for this, and the lighting board has circuit diagrams. Another way is buying one of the smaller dynamo LED lights, and bodging it into the Raleigh headlight housing. The rear light can be fitted with a drop in LED bulb that has a standlight, Jan Heine has them.

The lack of crossing spokes was a Raleigh thing. Motorcycle people will give you horrified looks if you mention that you cross the spokes. CR-18s in 26 x 1 3/8 are the usual recommendation for a new rim, and they come in 32h, 36h, or 40h drilling, so any SA hub except the 28h models will fit.

The most restromod that can be done with that SA shell is putting in the guts of the newer AW (SFR3) or a pre-1984 4 or 5 speed SA hub


Question: can you provide the dimensions for that rear rack? They're awfully hard to find, and while I haven't looked too deeply into the local offerings, I might just have to build one on my own.

Looks to be an essentially original Sports/Superbe model. '74 is right on, as the hubs say. The black plastic end pieces are self-adjusting brakes. As stated, they act like ratchets in tightening the cable when there's too much slack. You can also adjust the brake spread by playing with the splined metal ratchet discs in the adjustment extensions. I like mine, though many people pull them off.

The Dynohub's output can be low for a couple of reasons. First, even when it's working properly, you'll probably get abotu 2 watts at 15 mph. Second, if someone has taken it apart previously without a magnet keeper, it will cause the hub to lose strength by loss of magnetism. I suspect yours is a case of the hub just being low output in the first place, since it looks like this bike hasn't been messed with much. I swapped in a modern halogen bulb my headlight, which helped a bit. Others go all out and put modern guts into the lamps.

Crossing spokes- stock they don't cross. Actually many different vintage bicycles didn't have interlaced spokes. I interlace when I rebuild the wheels on these.

Rim: this depends on your spoke count. My 1974 Sports has 36 spokes on both wheels, but that was not long after they had swapped to 36-36 from 32-40. A modern replacement is Sun CR18 aluminum, and a vintage is to look for a Sturmey Archer Westrick pattern steel rim. There are some modern knockoffs from asia and south america out there still made. Most people who do swaps go to CR 18, though I do the original equipment thing.

$100 for that is a good deal, as it has some nice extras and looks pretty original.

Ask minisystem.

I don't believe you can put Shimano Internals in an SA shell.

Wish I'd beat you to it...

Looks nice. 19" frame?

I thought of you when I bought it. It is a 19" frame. It is in even better shape than the one you helped me with the hub overhaul or should I say the hub overhaul you did for me.

By the way, did you see the really small English 3 speed at MMRB? Your daughter needs another one so she can keep up with dad.

No Shimano internals won't fit an SA hub...why would you want to do that? :eek:

Lights, several options, B&M makes a decent looking LED headlight. It is about a 1/3 smaller than the stock one. It is basically plug and play. The tail light uses a wedge base bulb, the one from Compass Cycles is a screw base. I use a 12v automotive 194/168 LED bulb, does great but no stand light.

Personally I would ditch the self adjusters. There is currently only one bike in the stable that still has those on it and that is because I haven't gotten around to switching out the levers yet. If the caliper end of your cable is okay you can reuse the old cable, or even cut a bit off and re-thread it.

Aaron :)

I just bought the Lumotec Classic to wire up to my winter bike that is running the AG hub...