Thanks much, gster. I perused both articles and noted that all photos are taken from that right-side angle, so we never get to see what kind of linkage was used. The builder explains it like this:

"The front brake is a stock stirrup connected to a Raleigh accessory front lever, probably from the 1920’s or ’30’s. These components allowed me to build the bike without the traditional rod-brake set-up, which typically integrates with the handlebars."

The chrome objects protruding from the front of the handlebar are a rather elaborate 3-note "oogah" horn. Now that I look closer, I can see the black rubber bulb. That oughta warn folks that you are coming up fast. Nice build!

Soooo:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...428_104831.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...428_104839.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...428_104850.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...428_104900.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...428_104912.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...428_104921.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...428_104930.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...428_104935.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...428_104949.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...428_105035.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...428_105108.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...428_105115.jpg

Damn you!

You must be happy, @agmetal!

Hell yeah! This bike is almost exactly what I'd been looking for in the first place (pre-1950 AW hub on a bike with very slack angles). The K hub is interesting - it has a distinctly different sound from the AW, and I'll need to look up specifics on how to adjust it. Pretty much the only things that would make it more interesting would be generator lights, and being a Rudge rather than a Raleigh.

I like Rudges better than Raleighs, too, for some reason. I have a 1962 Rudge Sports.

So what you guys are saying is that you prefer a Hand to a Heron? :p

That is an incredible bike, agmetal. Definitely a candidate for Preservation over Restoration. I would award it with a Blue Ribbon for Perfect Patina. Well done!

Fabulous! Those pedals gotta go though. Otherwise looks unmolested.

It was originally shown to me without pedals, these ones were just thrown on by the seller.

The saddle is also a later replacement, but definitely period-correct.

Any way you look at it, a sweet ride.

Stunning bike! Great pics, too!

I never was a big fan of kickstands, but slight dislike has changed to vengeful hatred.

This is what the bottom of my Sports looked like (poor bashful bike having its bottom-side exposed in such a manner) immediately after removing the kickstand, and after a light scrubbing-of-the-crap. I know chainstay dents aren't as terrible a thing as on other parts of the frame, but still not happy about it. This is probably stuff you C&V wizards are all used to seeing. Maybe some day I'll be jaded and not bother posting pictures of rusty dents. :lol:

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=518628http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=518629

The rest is starting to clean up nicely, though as you can probably tell from the pic, I'm just removing and cleaning up parts on my porch! Mechanical maintenance gets to happen next week. I love seeing all the other beautiful bikes on here in the meantime!

@agmetal Gorgeous Roadster! Preservation for sure. This bike deserves genuine period parts, but I think any pre reflector Raleigh pedals would be fine. Also, the 70s fender reflector looks out of place. Genuine ones sometimes show up on eBay but the repros like the ones they sell at Yellow Jersey for 5 bucks look pretty good to me.
Spares and Accessories for Roadster Bicycles Raleigh Tourist 28" 635mm at Yellow Jersey Westwood Rims is another keyword Rod brakes British spares.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=518680 Yep, there's the shifter! Wonderful bike.

I concur with the Rudge affection. Love my Raleigh too.

I purchased the recommended Shimano 22 tooth cogs. How do I install this? The chain will need replaced?

Beautiful find in that rod brake roadster.

J

Here's another version of the same except it's pulling a Philco centrepull brake.. I found this BSA online somewhere, I like it.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-M...cd48b6e9_o.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Y...2969903b_o.jpg

It has a sort of brutal charm about it. Awesome to look at. But it looks painful to ride...

It is a shame so many of these bikes have the frames ruined and crushed by those kickstands, frame crushers.

I've never used the Shimano cogs. Always the Sturmey Archer 22T coaster brake cogs. I assume they're the same. You need to pry off the circlip in front of the cog with a small screwdriver, The cog will lift right off. I like to use a brand new chain when I do this operation. It's also handy to have a half link on hand. Sometimes you need one to get the axle position where you want it in the dropout. I've had it happen that the chain would be a tad too long, but removing a whole link would leave the axle out at the end of the dropout. If you're lucky, you won't need one

Since I get everywhere by bicycle, I had a friend with a car meet me at the shop after work last night. He took my other bike to my place in his car (and was available for sag wagon services if necessary) while I rode the Raleigh the 6ish miles home. It's a pretty sweet ride! My only complaint is that the saddle (1960s-70s, according to the seller) tends to flare out under my weight, and the side skirts get pretty uncomfortable rubbing against my legs after a while. I'm used to much firmer leather saddles. With a B72 that old, how can I best firm it up? I checked the tension bolt, and it does turn easily with the Brooks wrench, but I don't want to over-tighten it. Is lacing an option? Seems like it would be a challenge with the width, and the double rails. It doesn't seem to be too dried out, but I suspect an application of proofide may be in order?

Broken Bottom Bracket

This is what I don't understand. Raleigh made a perfect kickstand for their bikes, how come they were'nt used?

If the correct kickstand is installed, the frame tubes can't be crushed.

Yes! Make sure the leather is supple- if its hard, all that will happen is it will crack around the rivets of the nose cantle when you try to tighten the adjuster nut.

I've re shaped a couple by soaking the entire saddle in hot water for 5 minutes or less and then binding the saddle with some thick elastic bands to pull the sides in. Never tighten the saddle when wet and even when dry only tension the saddle in small increments i.e 1/4-1/2 turn.