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-   -   For the love of English 3 speeds... (https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=623699)

SirMike1983 03-15-21 08:31 PM

The last time I had the indicator pop out and not go back in was quite a few years ago. Turned out to be a broken axle key. They do break on rare occasion.

clubman 03-15-21 08:34 PM


Originally Posted by Ghostknife (Post 21969422)
Thanks to all, I have been looking through all the sports threads I can find trying to do some learning on them. I was looking for some Sun CR18s and they prove to be quite difficult to find. I’ll post some cleaned up pictures when I get it home. Excited to add this to the stable and ride it to work. Have a 10 mile round trip bike path route to work.

If you rebuild bearings, lube or replace cables, use nice new pads, you can dial in the Sports without the Sun Rims. It can be done. Suns can come later. 10 km/miles is perfect.

BFisher 03-15-21 09:30 PM


Originally Posted by clubman (Post 21969440)
If you rebuild bearings, lube or replace cables, use nice new pads, you can dial in the Sports without the Sun Rims. It can be done. Suns can come later. 10 km/miles is perfect.

Amen to that. It seems like too much emphasis gets put on the need to "upgrade" to aluminum rims asap by the well-meaning bike nerd masses. For basic transport/utility a steel rim is totally fine, and the braking issue is not nearly as serious or urgent as is so often parroted. I get totally adequate performance from 46 year old rod brakes on steel rims with fresh new pads.

I will also add that by far the most difficult rim I have ever had for mounting tires was a pair of Sun CR18s in 590, and I sometimes run the notorious Ambrosio Extra Elite Durex 700c on my bikes. Those CR18s were brand new, and so incredibly difficult to mount tires to that I gave them away.

Ghostknife 03-16-21 05:30 AM

I wont be doing anything before I clean and inspect everything, just looking at all options before I pick up the bike (part of the fun). I do know that it needs tires so the plan is to order those today, just not too sure what tires I wanna go with. So far I have found that not much is in stock, assuming that is due to covid. I recall seeing a list of tires in the 590 sizing somewhere on here so I will have to try to find that again.

browngw 03-16-21 10:10 AM


Originally Posted by erileykc (Post 21969297)
Yup, tried rethreading the indicator pin multiple times on the way back and it seems to thread in but then when tugged on even slightly it it pops out as if only the last thread was seated. I didn't have a chance to disassemble the hub before I left but when I do return to the house the Tourist is my only transportation so I was hoping to go back with those parts that would fix it regardless of what it turns out to be. Thus my question as to whether anything other than the indicator pin or the axel key could account for this. I know lots of people here have much older hubs than this still working well but I also read that the Raleighs by the late 70s were having a lot of corners cut. Not sure if this issue is emblematic of that or just bad luck.

Its too bad you didn't live around the corner as I have plenty of the keys and likely a spare indicator for a DL1. On my 79 DL1 the indicator is longer than my seventies sports.

BFisher 03-16-21 12:00 PM


Originally Posted by Ghostknife (Post 21969689)
I wont be doing anything before I clean and inspect everything, just looking at all options before I pick up the bike (part of the fun). I do know that it needs tires so the plan is to order those today, just not too sure what tires I wanna go with. So far I have found that not much is in stock, assuming that is due to covid. I recall seeing a list of tires in the 590 sizing somewhere on here so I will have to try to find that again.

I have had Panaracer's Col de la Vie, cheapos from Kmart, and Schwalbe Delta Cruisers, and if I were looking for 590 size tires I'd try to get my hands on the Schwalbes. I really like them, and they will take higher pressure than the Panaracers.

Ghostknife 03-16-21 12:05 PM


Originally Posted by BFisher (Post 21970326)
I have had Panaracer's Col de la Vie, cheapos from Kmart, and Schwalbe Delta Cruisers, and if I were looking for 590 size tires I'd try to get my hands on the Schwalbes. I really like them, and they will take higher pressure than the Panaracers.

I see the Schwalbe's come in the 590x37 and 590x42, anyone have insight on if the wider ones would fit, be better, slower, ect?

BFisher 03-16-21 12:12 PM


Originally Posted by Ghostknife (Post 21970337)
I see the Schwalbe's come in the 590x37 and 590x42, anyone have insight on if the wider ones would fit, be better, slower, ect?

I have the 37 size on my wife's '64 Huffy (Raleigh) Sportsman and there doesn't seem to be much more room between the chain stays, although I've never tried to fit 42s.

Unca_Sam 03-16-21 04:00 PM


Originally Posted by BFisher (Post 21970351)
I have the 37 size on my wife's '64 Huffy (Raleigh) Sportsman and there doesn't seem to be much more room between the chain stays, although I've never tried to fit 42s.

EA-3's only came in 1 3/8" thickness, right?

BFisher 03-16-21 04:13 PM


Originally Posted by Unca_Sam (Post 21970735)
EA-3's only came in 1 3/8" thickness, right?

Sounds right?

On Schwalbe's website I only see 37-590 (26x1 3/8) for the regular Delta Cruiser.
SJS Cycles shows a 26x1 5/8 Marathon Plus.

I'd just stick with the 26x1 3/8 (37-590). Never felt like they were lacking. They ride fine.

Unca_Sam 03-16-21 04:17 PM


Originally Posted by BFisher (Post 21970755)
Sounds right?

On Schwalbe's website I only see 37-590 (26x1 3/8) for the regular Delta Cruiser.
SJS Cycles shows a 26x1 5/8 Marathon Plus.

I'd just stick with the 26x1 3/8 (37-590). Never felt like they were lacking. They ride fine.

They do! Even the lowly Kendas. Inflation is key (hint, it's not usually going to be max inflation unless you plus bike weight is approaching 300 lbs.)

clubman 03-16-21 04:32 PM


Originally Posted by Unca_Sam (Post 21970735)
EA-3's only came in 1 3/8" thickness, right?

No, I've got a pair of Continental City Runners (?) at 1" ! They're like road tires.

howie2wheels 03-16-21 04:58 PM

Supremacy 3sp Roadster
 
Back about 1962 in Toronto, Canada I had a yellow English Supremacy 3 speed SA roadster bike and I can't find any info about it on the net. Anbody remember them?

browngw 03-16-21 09:16 PM

The Schwalbe Delta cruisers have worked great on my Robin Hood and no flats yet. 37-590
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...67423d8b51.jpg

AustinFitz 03-16-21 09:25 PM

Finally decided to do something with it and pulled this out of the pile today. Sturmey Archer hub is dated May of 1979. Frame is made in Taiwan, but it was free so I really can't complain. Unfortunately there's a lot of rust... Not exactly sure what the plan is yet, so I'm just going to start disassembling and then cleaning everything.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...bec1169f71.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...9a8c635402.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...49038d3b2c.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...04dfdeee1c.jpg

adventurepdx 03-17-21 01:17 AM


Originally Posted by BFisher (Post 21969499)
Amen to that. It seems like too much emphasis gets put on the need to "upgrade" to aluminum rims asap by the well-meaning bike nerd masses. For basic transport/utility a steel rim is totally fine, and the braking issue is not nearly as serious or urgent as is so often parroted...

Well, that all depends on where you live and how often you plan on riding the bike, "bike nerd" or not. I wouldn't want to ride all winter here in Portland with steel rims. Yeah, I tried. I like to stay out of the ER as much as possible.

That being said, the Missouri Compromise is to either rebuild the front wheel or find a pre-built 590/650A/26"x 1 3/8" front wheel. Better stopping power on the front is most useful so that's the way to go first. I've done that with a couple three speeds for awhile, before I got around to having the rear rebuilt with a new rim. And the pre-built front wheels are reasonably priced, though you'll need to spread the fork for the new wheel to fit.

Ghostknife 03-17-21 03:29 AM


Originally Posted by adventurepdx (Post 21971262)
Well, that all depends on where you live and how often you plan on riding the bike, "bike nerd" or not. I wouldn't want to ride all winter here in Portland with steel rims. Yeah, I tried. I like to stay out of the ER as much as possible.

That being said, the Missouri Compromise is to either rebuild the front wheel or find a pre-built 590/650A/26"x 1 3/8" front wheel. Better stopping power on the front is most useful so that's the way to go first. I've done that with a couple three speeds for awhile, before I got around to having the rear rebuilt with a new rim. And the pre-built front wheels are reasonably priced, though you'll need to spread the fork for the new wheel to fit.

I have a Fatboy for winter riding so won’t have to worry about that. I’m going to start with the new tires, just undecided on the delta cruisers (white wall looks nice) and the Marathon plus. As of writing this they are about the same price, at least by the shops that have them in stock. On Schwalbes site they are far cheaper but out of stock.

BFisher 03-17-21 05:30 PM


Originally Posted by Ghostknife (Post 21971285)
I have a Fatboy for winter riding so wonít have to worry about that. Iím going to start with the new tires, just undecided on the delta cruisers (white wall looks nice) and the Marathon plus. As of writing this they are about the same price, at least by the shops that have them in stock. On Schwalbes site they are far cheaper but out of stock.

Just thought I'd throw a photo up here showing the chain stay clearance on a mid-60s Raleigh-made bike with 37-590 Delta Cruisers. Not a whole lot left there, so keep that in mind when deciding on a tire. Again, I've never tried anything wider.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...8e8f92b826.jpg

arex 03-17-21 10:28 PM

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1951-Womens...s/254796886768

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/0Y0AA...mT/s-l1600.jpg

gster 03-18-21 09:12 AM


Originally Posted by erileykc (Post 21969297)
Yup, tried rethreading the indicator pin multiple times on the way back and it seems to thread in but then when tugged on even slightly it it pops out as if only the last thread was seated. I didn't have a chance to disassemble the hub before I left but when I do return to the house the Tourist is my only transportation so I was hoping to go back with those parts that would fix it regardless of what it turns out to be. Thus my question as to whether anything other than the indicator pin or the axel key could account for this. I know lots of people here have much older hubs than this still working well but I also read that the Raleighs by the late 70s were having a lot of corners cut. Not sure if this issue is emblematic of that or just bad luck.

I recall working on a hub a few years ago and running it without the indicator installed. The axle key came loose inside the hub and chewed itself up...
Lesson learned.

Johno59 03-18-21 10:28 AM

Take the cage out and have a look. The retaining pin costs 2 bucks. Don't try and remove the sprocket as they can be incredibly tight. Just take out the cone and pull the cage out and all will be revealed. Lots of good videos on you tube to show you if uncertain.

erileykc 03-18-21 10:53 AM

I rode it the last four miles back with the indicator pin just sitting in the axel nut so I may well have chewed the axel key in just that short ride. I'll find out the next time I'm there. It was too dark to delve into by the time I got back.


Originally Posted by gster (Post 21973255)
I recall working on a hub a few years ago and running it without the indicator installed. The axle key came loose inside the hub and chewed itself up...
Lesson learned.


erileykc 03-18-21 10:59 AM

I'll take you up on that offer. PM is in the not really mail.

[QUOTE=thumpism;21967300]I wouldn't worry about used parts if that's all I could get. I might have the new pieces in a couple of Sturmey boxes.

thumpism 03-18-21 12:43 PM

[QUOTE=erileykc;21973487]I'll take you up on that offer. PM is in the not really mail.


Originally Posted by thumpism (Post 21967300)
I wouldn't worry about used parts if that's all I could get. I might have the new pieces in a couple of Sturmey boxes.

I found several of each piece, as it turns out. PM coming.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...17c05a42ac.jpg

clubman 03-18-21 07:43 PM


Originally Posted by arex (Post 21972807)

Great era for women's and men's frames but he could have posted one pic of said fork. Spidey senses tingling.


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