Joel, there's a link to one on eBay in my original post. I've seen them called all sorts of things: Raleigh wrenches? Last one I found was at a used tool shop in Ellsworth, ME. Cost 25 cents!

So I've just read up on Whitworth. Interesting.


Problem- Front rim has what I think is a "blip" directly across from the valve hole, where both sides of the rim flare out laterally. I think it may be where the rim was welded together. Any quick fix I can do without specialty tools?

As as an aside I called my favorite local wheel builder & rebuild of rear wheel using CR18 with 40 spokes would run $112. Not saying I'm gonna run out and have wheels built, but I will take a 3 day wheel building class eventually so the rear wheel would be a good one to do for the class.

They're not that bad. Buy a set from India on eBay: Everest Whitworth BSW British 7 PC Open End Wrench British Standard English Tool | eBay
or Rolson Whitworth Combination Wrench Set BSW British Standard UK Triumph BSA Tool | eBay

I can't remember off the top of my head what sizes I use.

It's probably the joint where it's welded together. I've been messing with a number of older wheels with steel rims lately. Rebuilt my next door neighbors "Japanese racer" for him as a Christmas gift and had hell with the rear wheel. A couple others were not as bad but still frustrating. None of them is nearly as close to being round as I'd like and all of them have flaws at the weld. For me, I'd rather build a CR18 rimmed wheel from scratch than mess with a screwed up steel rimmed wheel. But, that might just be because I'm a talentless hack. What you do about it depends, I suppose, on how bad it is and whether it's just a perfectionist thing or if it has function implications. If the latter, I'd wait for FDNY's input and then do whatever he says.

Took a class in beginning wood turning today. I was struggling with the high speed steel knives and the instructor handed me a carbide scraping tool. It was like magic. Instructor told me he didn't like the carbide tipped tools because they made even incompetent dilettantes look good. At least he didn't suggest that I find another hobby.

Cr18 with 40 Wheelsmith SS 14 or 15 gauge spokes and nipples probably costs about $50 from Niagara to your door. If I were in the wheel building business and was good at it and had people requesting my services, I don't think I would do it for less than you were quoted. Unless I could get the rim at wholesale and had a spoke cutting machine and make a good profit on the components. If it's a wheel he doesn't build often, he has to spend a good bit of time just measuring and running a spoke calculator. Oh, that's the dynohub isn't it? Probably need two different spoke lengths so buying 50 packs of Wheelsmith spokes probably wouldn't work out.

I doubt if his quote included DB spokes though if it did, it might be a bargain. Personally, I'd go for straight spokes, probably 14 gauge. But, almost everyone here disagrees with me on that.

Personally, I find wheel building (rather than truing steel wheels) satisfying and relaxing. Cheaper than drugs and chances are I won't get arrested.

You just need a few English adjustable spanners.

Veeblefetzer.

Those are, ahem, excellent values.

@Velocivixen, I would use a file or a hammer or some other crude tool. I've done this dozens of times. Steel rims can take it. It's really not a big deal.

Those "King Dick" wrenches are rather interesting.

King Dick UK Whitworth Box End Ring Wrench Set 4 PC British BSW 1 8"w to 9 16"W | eBay

I use a French tool though, called an "English Wrench" I have then in 6", 8", 10" and 12" sizes... :D

Snap-on makes some double ended offset box wrenches that are pretty useful on Raleighs. Don't ask about the price though.

British Fasteners for a little history. Interesting about the Packard-built Merlin ( which powered the P-51 Mustang).

My dad remembers when both Sears Craftsman and Snap-On both made Whitworth tools sets. He goes to a lot of estate sales and always looks for Whitworth tools for me, but no luck so far. I broke down and bought a cheap set, but, hey, they do work.

Seems to me Whitworth is still around as Rolls uses the sizing on aircraft motors.

That was excellent reading.

Had a look at my 1968 AMF Hercules. No pulley... so perhaps it is a North American quirk.
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=428023

My Glider doesn't have a pulley, either.

Has anyone upgraded the brake levers and calipers with something that looks the vintage part and has stock fender clearance? The levers rattle sometimes with the play of the lever between the rivets and the brake calipers themselves aren't the best.

I find the stock brakes are pretty terrible with poor lever feel, even with CR18 aluminum rims and kool stop salmon brake pads.

I hear this complaint a lot, and I don't understand it. My 3-speeds' brakes are as good as on my other bikes. Maybe my hands are stronger than other people's hands?

Maybe you have alloy rims, Tom (though it appears @Narhay does as well?) My Schwinn Speedster exhibits (shall we say) "interesting" braking performance when wet. I recently swapped out the Schwinn Approved calipers with a pair of Polygons (same thing, I think, just newer and not bent), but the performance is still rather hair raising, even with Kool-Stop pads. I keep meaning to build up a set of CR-18 ISO590 rims to replace the rusty, bumpy, chrome steel "gems" currently on the bike, but other stuff is always closer to the front of the priority/interest queue. Besides, there's nothing like the wet weather braking performance of steel rims as you approach a four-way stop to get your blood pumping in the morning. :)

No, I have steel rims, and the brakes become non-brakes when the rims get wet. But in the dry, they work like champs. I do have long hands and a strong grip, though.

Ya know,the 'HOT' Portland market has really really cooled off lately.They are probably worth more in parts than whole but I'd still be upside down.
I do have some Schwinn non three speed frames was thinking of donating.

A common mistake with many vintage brakes is to set them up with the pads as close to the rim as possible. IMO/IME this is a mistake. You want a bit of a gap, otherwise you will reduce your leverage on the brake pads. Some of it comes from the calipers, some from the brake levers, but in both cases it works better if you have to move the brake lever a bit before you get engagement on the rim.

I first noticed this when working with Campy Deltas and it seems its the same way with the steel calipers on British 3-speeds. So if you have been trying to keep the brake pads really close to the rims, back them off a fair amount and see if you don't stop better.

I replaced the calipers with Tektro 800 sets on both my bike and my wife's bike. My bike had a set of decent forged levers, but hers had those awful self adjusting brakes, so I replaced them with some older forged Raleigh levers from a scapped sports. I got a scrapped late '70s sports once and it came with Weinneman levers. That's what my Twenty has, too. I suppose you could try those or something like them.

Well, I bought the bike about an hour ago. Most of what I feared was rust turned out to be dirt. The saddle is in very good shape - worth what I paid for the whole bike. All of the gears work (although a bit stiffly), and I am able to stop from 6 mph in about 30 feet. The AW hub is dated 1973. I haven't tried the lights yet. Some photos follow.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=428310http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=428311http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=428312http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=428313http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=428314http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=428315http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=428316http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=428317http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=428318http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=428319http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=428320
I must say, I'm quite happy no one heeded my call for intervention.

Now I need to find a green Raleigh Sports chainguard. Does anyone know where the serial number is located?

The frame looks much older than 1973. The rear wheel might be a replacement.

What is that logo on the rear fender? I can't read it.

I like the bike and especially the tail light.

It reads:
Alain Mertens (at the top)
Tel (?02) 5??67
BRAINEL??LEUD

noglider,

I just noticed that the front hub has a clip covering an oil port - that does seem older than 1973. The pedals look old but have reflectors. WTF?

@dweenk - whohoo! What a beauty and a fantastic platform for a project. I hope you'll start a thread detailing your work. That's really nice. Is it that "Bronze Green" that's extra special?

Also, that crankset is the three-brace style that would have come on a later 1970s Sports. Plus, you have a locking fork, a la Superbe! I think the Sports models with a locking fork might have been made in the 1950s (assuming the fork and frame match, which looks like they do).

Thank you Most Gracious Lady. I have been following your Phillips thread with much interest, and I do commend you for your diligence.

I almost didn't reply to the seller because I have too many bikes at this time, but I had a hunch that this one was good. I must say that I really like this bike. I just have to find a chainguard to match it though, and discover its true age (rear hub and front hub seem years apart at this time). My wife has a birthday in February, so I need to get it clean (at least) before then.

When I really start a refurb I will take your advice about a new thread.

Maybe this one. Vintage Raleigh Bicycle Chainguard Sport Hockey Stick British Dark Green | eBay

Thanks Narhay, but I'd like to find the year of my bike before jumping on that. The "Raleigh Sports" decal on the down tube is very plain script. i would like to find a guard that was a match. I love this thread.