+1

You can see the boss for a chaincase in the last picture. It is probably an older frame or it may be from Europe. The crank looks newer, though, as do the pedals.

The saddle is great, lights are very nice.

Edit: I looked at Kurt's Headbadge site and the decals look like late '50s, early '60s. Who knows, though?

May I introduce Prince Phillip , the patina lad with attitude. (I tried calling the bike Princess Phillipa, but just didn't roll off the tongue quite right).

Brakes are great in the front, bad in the back - worse than I think they should be. Oh well. I'll tell more on my thread, but for now here it is. I believe it to be 1955, in part because the SA AG dyne-three rear hub says "8 55" AND because the rear light was only made, or at least advertised '53, '54, '55.

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I bought the vinyl bag today from an older guy who redoes old Schwinns. He bought it new off eBay & it's from a Raleigh made Huffy, and he never installed it. It resembles the bags in the 1955 bike catalog for Phillips, so thought it would be appropriate.

Well done!

Be careful w/ the stem so high. Is there a minimum insertion line? Beware.

PS
Since most Portland drivers are on the Right side of the road consider re-locating the taillight to the Left side at some point.
edit: Nevermind you have a modern battery taillight. Leave OEM be!

-Bandera

Nice looking bike.

The original pedals on my wife's 1955/6 Standard have reflectors....so don't let that make you believe it isn't older than the hub indicates.

Serial number should be on seat tube top lug. Will definitely help the mystery.

I tend to agree the rear wheel and shifter have been replaced - notice there is the typical 70s fully enclosed shift cable with the chain stay cable stop instead of the expected pully. Shifter is consistent with 70s as well. However grips, oil port front wheel, chaincase boss, etc all point to an older bike. All explained if the rear wheel and shifter were replaced in the 70s.

Nicely done @Velocivixen! Now for the ride report.....

@Velocivixen- how much in the way of threads do you have exposed on the nuts on the cotter pins? I can't tell from the photos (nice work BTW) but the cotter pin seems to be sticking out further than I would expect. If the nuts are driven on far enough that some of the thread of the pin is exposed then I would say you are good to go. But if the thread is even with the top of the nut I would consider filing the cotter pins a bit.

36 spoke front and rear and a 70s (probably) chain ring. But, the brakes are not those goofy self-adjusters but neither are they the terminated on both ends "soldered" brake cables. That is, the brake end terminates in a clamp bolt. (I've just become familiar with the "soldered" cables).

The forks still have the herons rather than the "R" decals so the frame's earlier than 73, according to headbadge Sports decal guide. Also, the fork has pin striping. I think I can see pump pegs, but not sure.

My wag is the frame is late 60s (pinstriping, herons on the forks, bolt-clamp terminated cables, other decal details, from what we can see) but the wheels and crank (and maybe some other parts) are from a 73 or 74. I don't know what to make out of the fork lock nor the chaincase braze-on. I'd never seen the braze-on before the other day, have no idea if that feature survived into the late 60s.

Hi There. The stem is 7.5" tall and I've left 2.5" below the lock nut. Should I leave more in there?



@Salubrious - the threads from the ends of the pin are in the center of the nut. In other words, there is more room for the nut to be screwed on more. So you're saying I should have more of the threads at the end of the cotter pin engaged by the nut? If so I may just take to the bike coop. I don't have the tools to file (not sure what's needed) and don't have a way to make positively sure they're filed equally. I guess I could just get cotter pins that are filed down more.

Thanks Markk990,
Should I be looking for a hockey stick chainguard with a brace for the boss, or an enclosed chain case? I'll check out the seat lug for numbers later today and report back.

Very nice VV. You could be Queen of the next tweed ride on Prince Phillip.

Indeed you will be. Until they find you're married, when the guys hear you did all the work yourself, they'll all swarm around you. ;)

That's awesome.

That a tall one.
The stem from my '70's Superbe is ~6 1/2" and installed w/ ~3" inserted (gee it's cold out in the garage).

Once more, good work.

-Bandera

Additional infoOk, I found the serial number.. The paint is thick, but the number appears to be 1624904. According to Sheldon Brown and Kurt Kaminer, that would date the manufacture of the frame to 1970, although it could have been built up for sale as late as 1973. Maybe the hub is original then. I also found a clamp on the down tube that has no purpose. I took a photo of it.

After looking a chain guards on ebay, I see that the clamp is the down tube attachment for the chain guard. The original must have been the hockey stick style.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=428401

It looks like the shifter cable housing goes all the way to the back, instead of being on a pulley. Is that correct? It's interesting that it has a pump mount, too.

Yes, the cable housing runs all the way to the chain stay, and it is the same ribbed housing as the brake housing. That is the lower pump peg that you see.

I just tested the lights, both front and rear lights work, but some of the wire is frayed and holding together by a few strands. Should I rewire or splice the bad spot(s)?

@dweenk & @noglider - you guys are funny! When I go on my first "Tweed" or "3-Speed Ride" I will sure to impress as I will bring a cotter press! (Hey, that rhymes);)

Funny because it's apt. Why do you think you get so much attention here?

As a rule of thumb, any time there is a nut, the threads of the bolt or whatever its for should always go all the way through the nut, with at least a thread or two exposed. There may be special exceptions to that rule but this is not one of them. The filing is not that tricky, especially if the remains of the old cotter pin are available. Just lay the new and the old side by side and draw a line across the new cotter pin that is an average between where the face ends on the new cotter and where it ends on the old one. Then file (or grind) the cotter to meet that line. I would then try it in the crank to see how well it fits- it may be that is all the grinding you need to do. If the threads of the cotter pin still run short of being exposed then you may have to grind the pin so it matches the original.

Once you get one pin fitted, then its fairly easy to get the other one fitted by simply matching it to the first. This is a fairly easy task overall if you have access to a grinder and know how to use it.

Bikesmith (Mark Stonich) has a jig in which he can place the cotter pin and then runs the grinder on it- the result is the correct face for Raleigh cranks. But I am betting that being pre-Raleigh, the faces you need will be a little different.

You can ride the bike the way it is but only to test it. Without the pins seated correctly the crank will be weaker.

I'm sorting through my DL-1 project as a preservation and wheel rebuild but happened to come across the Brothers Rich site. Sorry, no three speed but yet rather interesting with the Soma / Lauterwasser bars and stripped down look. Anyone try these bars for the DL-1? Or crazier yet, configure for the rod brake levers?

brothers rich ? The Charleston

http://www.cycleexif.com/wp-content/...eigh-dl1-1.jpg

http://cycleexifcom.c.presscdn.com/w...eigh-dl1-8.jpg

I have an Indian built Windsor bicycle with rod and lever brakes and inverted bars.
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^^ gster- Looks terrific! Being so raked, they look super comfy but imagine the handling is lazy.


I'm sort of thinking partially going in this direction. Whatever transformation I decide, all will be reversible and original parts saved. Its going to be rider and will have some long days in the saddle. Might even ride a few organized century's with it.

My DL-1 is fairly rough cosmetically, but its straight and no frame rust. A good candidate to convert. The chrome parts leave much to desire. The steel Westwood style rims are toast anyways and a fellow forum member has offered the aluminum Endrick type. I'm learning as I go along, and well aware how bad the rod brakes work, but they look so neat. Hoping the upgrade wheels will do the trick and better brake pads.
I'll probably use an early shifter and mount it on the top tube.

Other: Neat article of a young Jack Rossiter riding a Raleigh Club - 1929 Lands End TT
ipernity: Raleigh Racers: North Road, Club & Record Models, 1925-1933 by Peter Kohler

You're right. Not the easiest bike to ride. The front wheel is way out front and the rod brakes are "iffy" at best. I don't really ride it that much as it's mostly a shine and show bike. But I still like it. It was the first one I put together after seeing a Pashley Guv'nor and realized that I couldn't afford the price tag so decided to build my own version. The bike originally had fenders and a chain guard which were discarded and was missing one of the brake brackets. Also, no gears on this one. Good article on the Raleigh Ravers.
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Picked up this Humber Sports 3 speed. In the process of a restoration. Plans are to just clean the crap out of it, paint and chrome should shine up. New cables and tires and ride it. Its a learning experience working on these types of bikes, some of this stuff I have never messed with. The biggest issue will be dent removal of the chain case and rear fender.


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A little cleaning on the paint..Hard to tell in the cell phone pics, but that old lacquer paint shined up pretty nice.


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Why do rod brakes work so badly?

Physics.

Sweet- not an easy machine to find! Have you sorted out what year? I have a Gent's in the 23" size with a matching Lady's machine. The latter had a '70s wheel on it- gave me an excuse to fit it with CR18s, after I found a hub from the right period (early 1950s). The Gent's was in deplorable condition and from the looks of it did not clean up as well as yours will. It got CR18s as well. It came with a 4-speed alloy hub; I put Continental City Rides (37-590, 26 x 13/8", 650A whatever) on it, and I have to say I was amazed at what a fine ride it is- a lot faster than it looks and very confidence inspiring.

Hub is dated 1954.