The problem with modified bikes is that one person's scorcher is another person's train wreck. When I built my semi-scorcher, I started from a dumpy overpainted frame with a replaced fork, missing mudguards and Schwinn front wheel. I stripped and painted the frame, used lots of vintage parts from my inventory, rebuilt everything, bought expensive brakes, a new front wheel, the CR 18 is still waiting to get installed on the rear, tires and tubes, cables, bearings, a seat and as nice a ride as it is, Id be lucky to get 75 bucks if I tried to sell it. In terms of dollar value, the more complete and original it is, the better.

I'd buy them both, swap the nicer bits from either bike onto the frame of your choice, then sell all of the leftover stuff as a complete bike and get half the money back.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...fdc0d05cd9.jpg

What does 51\" axle refrence? That measurment seems much to large for a drop out spacing. I am clearly uninformed in this matter, and thus confused haha

Looks like 5 3/4". Funny, I thought I saw 5 1/2 and 6 1/4 lengths on the exploded view FW diagram. Maybe I read it wrong. I'm used to seeing 5 1/2" on AW hubs.

oh!
that makes significantly more sense than 51 haha

The greatest advancement in engineering England ever saw was getting rid of feet and inches. Whoever came up with the idea of measuring lengths using fractions is surely burning in hell.

Here's something interesting if you live in Vermont. They want 100 bucks for an old 3 speed with a sawed off front mudguard. Look closer and you'll see it's a 1956 Rudge. Now if that basket is saleable, talk them down to 80, sell the baskets for 30, and there's no bad rust damage, it's possible to end up with a pre TI 21" frameset, 2 wheels, mid 50s AW hub, a nifty 48T Hand of Ulster crank, silver cable housings, window shifter, and maybe more for 50 bucks. Hard to see condition in that bad photo though.
56 rudge

No!! I hate all that geeky, bow tie metric stuff. When I go to the deli, I don't want to be bothered saying " gimme .22076 Kilograms of salami. I want to just say a half pound please...thin slices.

I bought an old Dunelt from a guy a few years ago for $50.00
Stripped off some parts I didn't want and listed them on Kijiji.
The original seller then came over and bought the discards
back for $30.00...
Go figure....

1953 Raleigh Superbe Sports Unearthed
 

I lucked into this bike today. I think it's a 1953 Raleigh Superbe Sports.

I'm amazed that it's so original (even has the color matched Raleigh branded factory pump). It also has what I suspect is an SA 4-Speed FG Dynohub with all of the original bits and bobs, lamps, clips, battery and so on. Any experts here able to confirm if this is an SA FG Dynohub? It's dated 53. 5.

Regardless, once cleaned up and with an appropriate saddle, I think this will be a joy.

More photos in this thread.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a274357b43.jpg

You get fractions any way you do it. If you went to a deli in a metric standard country, you could just order a quarter kilo of salami and you'd be within a slice or two. But, it may be customary to use multiples of 100 g at the deli. In Italy the 100 gram unit is etto; plural is etti. So, for about a pound you'd order cinque etti. Mezzo, roughly means half, so you might be able to order 250 grams by 2 etti plus mezzo etto, but I don't know if that would work. Sometimes they take you literally and if you mess up you might end up with 15# or something. But usually, in my limited experience, the Italians are helpful and very nice to you when you make an honest attempt to use their language. Just have to get used to those little bitty shopping carts and two bag limits. Anyway, it's mostly just what you're accostomed to.

I'm a fan of metrification although not a warrior. It's hard to go full metal metric in the U.S. when you go to the hardware store or lumber yard and everything is listed in ft, in, and fractions. But, when you bring home a sheet of 3/4" plywood, it's nice to have metric measuring tools when you go to laying everything out, because it's probably real close to 18 mm. And, it's easy to get used to making measurements in mm and dividing it up. Dividing up 1/2", for example, into thirds and fifths, if you're using tools with base 2 divisions (1/2, 1/4, ... 1/64) gets troublesome. Gets harder all the time as I get older and the math doesn't come as easy. Also, consider calculating how much concrete you need for a project when the project is measured in ft and in and concrete is in cubic yards. In metric, everything is measured in meters and concrete is in cubic meters.

Boy, that's a pretty one.

Looks like it might be the FG. As far as I know, the FG is the only 4 speed dyno hub. Should say 4 speed on it and FG, too, I think. Has the 3 or 4 speed shifter.

edit: from what I know, almost all the 4 speed hubs are FW and the FG used the same gears.

Wow, this one is outstanding. What a great find. You even got the grips!!! Doesn't look like she needs much. What a beautiful, classic roadster. I'm seeing fewer and fewer bikes like this as time goes by.
edit: From the catalog the Superbe Sports Tourist didn't get the Raleigh Sports transfer on the downtube. I thought it might be worn off, but no. Never had one.

Good Bye to an Old Friend
My goal to cull the herd has started.
This 1972, 21" Superbe is going to a new home tomorrow.
This hub had a mangled sun gear that I replaced.
I can only conclude that someone had reefed on the hub thinking
tighter was better.
I haven't re packed the BB as I didn't want to disturb/ruin the "R"
nuts on the cotters.
I DID pour some heavy oil down the seat tube and all seems well.
A somewhat worn Japanese leather saddle.
The tires are old but seem good.
New brake pads and cables.
Plastic trigger face is good.
Working Dynohub.
No key.
At the selling price it does't make sense for me to spend any more $$
Sold for cost to a friend's girlfriend.
She likes a men's bike.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...28c143e676.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...beb614fb25.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...608a842964.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...9bb3a9e7bf.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...7ff8047850.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...713b6a3897.jpg

I find myself at an impass...
I was able to get a pair of calipers to my 4 speed hub and it looks to be a 110mm.
My Harding bike mentioned earlier was my initial conversion plan but it had its spacing cold pressed to 130mm. At the time I was building it up with a modern gear set and didnt plan to convert. I could have it cold pressed back but it would be quite a jump to do nearly a cm on each side.
I did find myself the owner of a nice raliegh super course frame. It is a little too large for me coming in at a hefty 25". I'm 62 so it's not way too big but it's a little much. Its spacing is likley just right, but the frame is a little worse for wear. I'm not a stickler for looks but I like a clean bike.
I'm stuck between cold pressing the Harding back and hoping for the best and building up the super course and hoping for a nice paint job some day.
thoughts?

The Super Course seems to be the favored frame for road bike to internal gear roadster or club bike conversions. A few really beautiful ones have been posted here. It takes me at least a month to strip and paint a bike frameset in my backyard with rattle cans. What I lack in skill and equipment I make up for with lots of time wet sanding and polishing. In the end, I do end up with a professional looking paint job. Personally, I would use the SC or save the hub for a nice 23" Sports frame.

I would definitely repaint it if I went with the Super Course. I am going to call around today and ask some shops, a single color powder coat may cost me under a hundred bucks if I strip the frame myself, which I'll be doing anyway for its parts. I am leaning towards the SC, but I did pick up that sports mentioned before. It is a wonderful ride but I think I was looking for something a little lighter for the 4 speed hub. I think my simplest option is to build a 26 3/4 wheel around the 4 speed and drop it in the sports.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...4205b76fd3.jpg

This sports is my daily rider right now. The seat is from another bike because the seatpost clamp it came with is busted. I just need the right size sest clamp to fit in between the old rails on the original seat and I will be good to go.

pictures for refrence to the other two I keep mentioninghttps://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e78d96fb70.jpg

Super Course, its a monstrous 25\" Its about 2cm too tall for me so with the sestpost down as it is it rides fine
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...5f744c0440.jpg

The harding (pictured previously). I love the look of this bike and another big perk is it has a ludriocus amount of clearance for tires. Right now its running 700cx40!

I Love the 23" Sports. Very nice! You might have seen DQRider's rather spectacular Super Course conversion. There's some other great ones I've seen on this thread. Very inspiring. Might try one myself someday.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...55c3dd7d4c.png

That Sports is really nice. John D Thompson has a Superbe of about the same vintage that looks a lot like it. Beautiful bikes, both.

If you put the hub into that Sports (and that's a good idea if you like the bike) you'll need a 36h rim as the new hub, if the box is correct, is 36h.

Could get a 36h Dynohub and a pair of CR18s (if you don't mind the look) and have a nice 4 speed to cruise around the neighborhood in the middle of the night.

I've been reading your posts but didn't pick up on the fact that you had scored that pretty greenie. Very nice.

@Buellster My vote goes to the Harding to receive the hub. Fit trumps weight every time! I recently sold a gorgeous Holdsworth that I restored for myself. I could ride it, but felt too tall. That nice green sports is a fine bike as is. I'm pretty sure the steel in the Harding can be re-spaced and it would be a really unique and good looking bike.

One bolt quill stem?
 

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b17dcb1e49.jpg
I have a 1969 Armstrong 3 speed that has a single bolt quill stem securing both the stem and the handle bar. I have never seen this arrangement before. Was it ever common? Sorry about the flash glare, but I hope you get the idea.

I am really feeling that combo. I would love to build it into a one of a kind of roadster!
The funny thing about the fit is that the Harding is a tad too small. Its 58 CM and I'm more fit for a 60-62 while the SC is a tad too big coming it at 64cm.
They can both be made to work bit I'm trying to decide weather a little too big or a little too small is better Haha

Edit:
the sports is also a 58cm and it's a great fit so perhaps thats my answer

I have seen this bike on here a few times and it is BEAUTIFUL. It's one of the bikes that inspired me to try and convert a bike over. Those wood wrapped fenders are so wonderfull too. I have a Cheapy woody's on my Harding now because I couldn't bring myself to put up the cash for the wrap arounds.
some day though.

I'm not sure about this, pretty sure though since I have a similar S5 hub. The guts of the FW may simply screw into the existing AW hub shell on the green Sports wheel negating the need for wheel building. Almost positive they are the exact same shell.

yeah I just picked it up yesterday actually. I've got about 8 miles or so on it and I really like it. I'm more tempted to let it be since it's so well put together as is. It may just be my sunny day bike. I saw that superbe! So pretty. This thread is so great. The quality of bikes people have and have made is astounding.

now THAT is something to think about!

Interesting. Would the wedge/bolt need to be dialed in to apply the right tension for both stem and bar or is it self adjusting? I suspect the latter. This reminds me of much older stems from the early 20th century.

The only way that it is self-adjusting is by myself. In other words -no. When the quill is tight the bars are tight, and that is it.

That's kinda what I mean't. One torque does it all.