But if it's a BLACK Superbe, still look alright?

It would look alright to me, personally. Black and chrome: a classic combination. A purist might turn their nose up at it, but who cares? You won't encounter many purists riding about in the world. It'll just be a nice looking bike.

The only differences between the Superbe and the Sports (that I know of) are the accessories that came stock with them: a sprung Brooks B66, a color-matched rear rack, a generator hub, lighting, locking fork, and the word "Superbe" printed on the side instead of "Sports".

Looks like it was originally available in Bronze Green and Coffee Brown during the 70s.

You can find info here: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/retroraleighs/superbe.html

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=187087
A recent acquisition, mystery double top tube, possibly Comrade Cycle Co. Be nice to get a positive ID on the maker, any thoughts?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8728562...7625755528277/

Is that as huge as it looks? It's really something!

Love the double top tube, very stately machine.

Anything stamped on the handlebars? Looks kind of Phillips-ish. What is on the rear hub? (date code wise)

Much later wheels, a '67 AW sleeve.

At 26" the frame isn't quite the extra large size these bikes come in, 28" and even a 30" I've seen! First time for me riding on 28" wheels and does feel very elegant and sedate.

I've been looking through the old catalogues and am now sure it's a Comrade Cycle Co machine and made for Vindec/Brown Brothers Ltd of London c1930.

Chas

Comrade cycle co?
 

Is that an English company, or an East bloc knockoff built with Western plans? Like they used to rip off Fiat and Chrysler designs of older models?

Hmm, still looks http://www.therevcounter.com/trc-she...storation.html like a Phillips to me.

Comrade were out of Darlastan, in the West Midlands intensely industrialized; 'the nuts and bolts' of England's manufacturing, including bicycles.

http://www.localhistory.scit.wlv.ac....Industries.htm

Oooh, Thanks Waverley610 for the nice link. I thought "Comrade" may have another connotation. The graphic design for those old ads is great.

I'm not sure about the Chrysler copies (are you referring to the "Chaika" vehicles?), but the Soviet built "Ladas" were licensed from Fiat.

A question regarding the headset. I am about to replace the headset cups as well the fork crown race and wondering if any of you know their correct size?

I read Sheldon's website and he wrote the Raleigh 3 speed cups should be the standard 1", can someone confirm that? As for the crown race, I kind of measured it as 27.04mm but I can't be sure?

I don't know, but I'm pretty sure the Raleighs had 26 tpi headsets, not the "standard" 24 tpi, so you can't use a regular "English threaded" headset. You have to scavenge from an old Raleigh.

It would be nice if I'm wrong about this.

You're right, Tom:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/raleigh26.html#headsets

Neal

Raleigh headsets and steerers are 26 tpi... if you were replacing the fork with a modern one you could go with ISO standards all the way through but if you are retaining the Raleigh fork you can only swap the lower cup which is often the only cup that needs to be swapped since it bears most of the steering load.

Raleigh headsets are very well made and will last a lifetime with proper care.

You can still purchase new 26tpi headsets... from across the pond.

I have a few NOS ones and if you have a decent bike co-op you might be able to salvage headset parts there.

That's pretty much it. As Sheldon said in the article that Neal linked, "you can replace just the bottom with any standard ISO 1" headset parts, and re-use the Raleigh upper assembly."

The issue comes with the BB. Just getting the drive-side cup out will be an adventure. Heck, just CLEANING that drive-side cup and inspecting it to make sure it is OK is a PITA since you really can't see it from the other side very well and old guys like me need a jeweler's loupe when we inspect stuff like this. You can't get a 30x loupe close enough to focus on the races to inspect them from that distance, much less get any light in there. On my Sports I just inspected the non-driveside cup and decided it was perfect and did but a cursory inspection of the driveside to make sure there were no visible pits without magnification and hoped for the best.

The OEM Nottingham bearing parts were very rubust. As long as there was grease in there or the PO put some oil in there through the oiler hole the BB should be AOK. The same goes for the top end of the headset. Mine was so dry that the grease looked like old earwax but there was no rust or pitting of any type. With new balls and grease the BB and headset are like butter. Not bad for $2.50 or so invested in new balls and a dab of grease!

Is 20-30 steel comprable to Chromoly?

20-30 is hi-ten steel. It is heavier than chromoly.

Heck no! 2030 is better than chromoly -it is "ALL STEEL!!!"

'Says so right there on the frame!

:-D

Heavy is GOOD! Nobody hardly ever simply crashed a 2030 frame and then had to have it straightened. Depends on what you call "good."

Weight weenies stick to your road bikes ;) What is an extra few pounds of frame anyhow when you've got 40lbs of groceries loaded in your racks?

I am in need of one of chrome coverings on the front fork. I would like to trade part or buy this piece. I am not sure what it is called but here is a picture. This for a 3-speed Sports model.

Thanks.

Thimble.
You'll probably want to buy a fork, or maybe a trashed one, somebody could give you.
I never see loose thimbles.

Amesja, there is no reason to ever remove a fixed cup on the BB, unless it somehow got ruined. They aren't meant to come out.

2030 isn't heavier by nature. Chrome-moly is stronger and therefore, they can make it thinner. That is what makes it lighter, i.e. they can use less of it to achieve the same strength.

I just met someone who thought chrome-moly had nothing to do with steel. I told him it's a steel alloy with tiny amounts of chrome and molybdenum mixed in as the magic touch to make it stronger.