New Shimano Deore hub, ticking noise in the bearings
 

Got a new weel with a Shimano hub since the old freehub was too noisy, but now there seems to be another problem. Seems like there might be some ball bearings missing since it's making some ticking noise while spinning. Had the same problem ages ago on a cheapo bike. Wasn't expecting something like this from Shimano Deore. Not sure if overhauling it would be the best thing to do due to upcoming tour tomorrow.

I always overhaul, (clean, grease, adjust), any new cup-cone bearings. Most hubs are machine built and there is no way they can be adjusted properly. Plus once you start to gall the cone and race surfaces, there is no way back.

As for the number of ball bearings, I believe that recently happened to me with a new front hub. I counted 11 on one side and 10 on the other. I don’t recall a clicking sound. Since both quantities have been used, depending on the hub, I looked it up on Shimano’s Tech Doc site and there should be 11.

I can’t be certain that one did not fall out and roll away to places unknown, but I’m pretty careful, use a magnet, and put a towel down. Regardless they both have 11 now.

John

There wasn't any grease one the drive side whatsoever. Unfortunately some of the balls felt on the ground immediately upon removing the axle, so one is missing now. Should be nine on each side.

I don’t have access to Shimano tech site at the moment. “Typically” 9 (1/4”) balls per side for rear hubs.

You can search using the hub number, FH-Number and HB-Number. There are pdf’s with exploded views and parts list.

John

You can get Grade 25 ball bearings, 1/4” and 3/16”, at an LBS. I wouldn’t go to anything better, but I wouldn’t go anything less than that; such as Grade 100.

John

Edit added: I also don’t skimp on the grease; pack it in there.

The pdf on FH-T610 shows 9 on both sides. Grade 5 bearings is said to be optimal for cycling. The caliper shows 0.25 inches in diameter.
I suspect one ball was missing from the start, otherwise the clicking would be a bit quiter, since they weren't completely dry but covered with oil instead of grease.

How ironic. I just did this on T610 hubs this past weekend. Bought the wheels a year ago as replacements for our son some day.

Check for burrs/chips on axle. I found a sliver on the axle. Spent extra time cleaning. Ran a magnet through the hub.

But the final product turned out smooth spinning.

John

Could be just a bad luck in this case. As it has been said in another thread something unexpected keeps happening with each upgrade.
I suspect one ball was missing from the start, otherwise the clicking would be a bit quiter, since they weren't completely dry but covered with oil instead of grease.

Could be just a bad luck in this case. As it has been said in another thread something unexpected keeps happening with each upgrade.
I suspect one ball was missing from the start, otherwise the clicking would be a bit quiter, since they weren't completely dry but covered with oil instead of grease.

Here we go again...

Had purchased new wheels for my son's mtn bike with Shimano hubs. Noticed when repacking the bearings, the front hub did not have much grease at all, barely even slick. Plus that hub was overly tightened by the manufacturer.

Rear hub did have some grease, but not that much.

Wondering if the production on these hubs are going too fast or quality control is just plainly down for these kind of mistakes.

That tells me enough.

Normally something should be kept under the hub for the ball bearings to fall into. This time I though internal grease retainer seal would hold them in for some reason.

Agreed, with cartridge bearing hubs you have got loud freehubs, while with Shimano you normally have some sort of problems with cup and cone bearings. Older production freehubs seemed to be quiter for some reason. Like a wristwatch ticking. Shame this one sounds like a loud mouse click. Who knew cycling would be so complicated.

Neither is true for most folks. Bummer, but cycling doesn't seem to be working out for you. Hope your experience improves while on tour,:thumb:

It could be just a fundamental attribution error. Cycling is not the only thing that's not working out.
Cycling was my last hope lol.

My understanding is hubs are machine assembled. I’m not sure if Shimano uses the most efficient processes with the (false) intent that an LBS/wheel builder will set the hub up properly before customer use. After all a hub will always require additional steps, wheel building, prior to being put into use. But I doubt anything is done with machine built discount priced wheels.

I also don’t know if the lower level hubs are thrown together and the higher level hubs have additional steps. A $300 XTR freehub might command more attention at the factory than a $30 Deore offering.

It is not a big deal for me. New or used, I overhaul every hub I get before I use them. There are much better wheel builders and mechanics than me out there, but I doubt there is a machine that will do a better job than I can.

John

The weel was advertised as being hand built on sjscycles website specializing on touring bicycles, so they should have heard the bearings making noise on truing stand.

It actually isn't very hard to re-grease the bearings on cup and cone hubs, or at least I don't find it difficult.

But others whom aren't willing to put this work into it may find it annoying to have to pay a LBS to repack the bearings on a new hub.

So what did they say when you informed them that there was an issue with the hub?

About 5 years ago, I bought an inexpensive wheelset from Performance Bikes, when the shop I went to was actually a decent shop. Took the wheels home only to find the supposedly "hand built" wheels need truing and tensioned.

Took it back to the the shop and they were like there is nothing wrong with these wheels. Took the wheels to an LBS I had also shopped often at and they were happy to tension and properly dish the wheelset.

I have found that it doesn't matter if the wheels are hand built. If the builder doesn't build it right, then the consumer will need to fix.

HEH...what am I saying, my new wheelset I bought a few months ago from Prowheelbuidler was not tensioned right as well. I just had a lbs tension those since it was cheaper to do rather than shipping the wheel back and wait a month for ProWheelBuilder to fix. Which is strange, cause Prowheelbuilder has always done a great job for me on prior wheelsets.

The said that's interesting and asked me to send a video, so sent them two. One with the wheel spinning and another one with axle being rotated by fingers. After that no response.
Going trough the trouble of sending it back probably would be pointless since this was the only 32h wheel with 135mm OLD axle and rim brakes I could find.

You make statements AS FACT when they are NOT!
Troll technique 1.2a

I don't know but Shimano was rated as second quitest after Onyx. Shame Shimano has some noise level inconsistency among the same freehub models though.

BLAH BLAW BLAH.
Avoid the issue and try to avert attention by posting totally meaningless "hearsay statistics" that have anything to do with your "alleged problem".
What have you ACTUALLY done in an attempt to alleviate your "alleged problem"? (Other than dump bearings on the ground and post a lot of crap)
Another for the ignore list.